i washed my truck for the first time yesterday. to dry my car i use the "carlifornia blade" (see link below). i've been using this thing forever on all my past cars. I noticed though that it might be leaving swirl marks in the paint. it could also be that my wash mit was dirty too when i washed it but i already took care of that problem by throwing the mit in the washing machine.

my question is, what all do you use to dry your truck after you wash it? i need something that won't leave lint and won't harm the paint. any suggestions? also what does everyone use for a good wash mit? and also good soap? i've been using the rain-x car soap. seems to be pretty good.

http://www.autobarn.net/ac20002.html

I use turtle wax car wash that has wax in it. I just wash and dry and then go over whole truck with dry towel to make sure wax is buffed/spread/dryed evenly and its all done. And you don't have to worry about plastic parts, chrome or dried wax in the cracks and other stuff that makes traditional waxes a pain to use.
To wash I use micro fiber towels(i think thats what they are) theyre white and blue and come in a pack of about 30 to 40. I get them from BJ's. Theyre great especially to dust with cause stuff just sticks to them when they are dry with like a super static cling and theyre super soft. And the best part is theyre cheap enough to be diposable when they get too dirty or you can throw them in the washer and dryer and they come out clean and the dryer puts the static charge back on them. And old soft bath towels to dry.
Maguires Scratch X will take out all your swirls and clear coat sratches too. All the stuff above is pretty cheap.

I use McGuires soft wash gel for soap. And just a soft mit for washing. I dry with a chamois & a chamois sponge for areas that collect a lot of water. I also try and keep a good coat of wax on the truck as well. The wax will keep down any marking on the paint. The wax I use is McGuire's as well. I'm a big fan of their products.

Daniel

yea im a big fan of maguires too. im gonna check out there website and might place an order for some new stuff.

McGuires soft wash


best 1 out there.... and a cloth terry...... wax 2 times a year again use Mcguires products

I've been using the blade for about 5 months now and love it. Ordered 3 more for Christmas gifts from Top-of-the-line one of our sponsors. Everyone I gave them too likes them as well. Cuts down on drying time and does not leave any marks. You have to completely rinse the soap off or it will streak.
I also have a micro fibre cloth handy to wipe the blade off between strokes.

- Meguiars Gel to wash
- Microfiber to dry
- Clay Bar
- Mequiars NXT Wax to finish it off

The best thing I have found for drying is the water blade in one hand and a AquaDry towel in the other. The aquaDry towel can be found at walmart. I like it better than a chamoise because it is synthetic so it will not mold. After done, wash it out roll it back into the tube, and it will stay wet for whatever you could need a wet towel for. Since it is made of PVA or something like that, it will not rot or mold. The water in it may become a tad musty, but wash it out and any smell is all gone.

I also use Meguiars soap to wash, but then I use an absorber to soak up the water and immediately after run a 100% cotton towel over to eliminate any left over water streaks.
I wax the truck once a month with Mother's cleaner wax and once every three months I give it a full claybar/Zaino treatment. In between waxes I'll use Mother's detailing spray to keep it smooth.
This may sound like too much, but it keeps us happy!

Mr. Clean car wash. With the hard water here there is no time to dry without leaving spots behind. Meguiars NXT for weekly detailing and wax twice a year. 8)

Mr. Clean AutoDry wash. I also found a detailing guy who does fabulous work for the waxing and deep interior cleaning.

I use Dawn dish soap to wash the Titan. It cuts through all of the road grime.
I use a synthetic chamois drying towel (from germany) to dry it.

nothing works better for drying than my trusty leaf blower

I use ZipWax car wash and a lameswhool mit to wash, and I dry with a soft towel. I wax with Meguires every four or five months.

I use Dawn dish soap to wash the Titan. It cuts through all of the road grime.
I use a synthetic chamois drying towel (from germany) to dry it.

You may want to switch to a car soap. Dish soap can/will strip away your wax. You will also find a good car soap like McGuire's soft wash gel will be a lot easier to rinse clean. Its a $3-5 investment you will be happy with.

Daniel

nothing works better for drying than my trusty leaf blower

Man, gotta try that one!

You DO NOT want to use DAWN. It will strip any and all polish/wax on your truck. Anything by Meguiars is great. I use their NXT WASH but the Gold Class is the best they have to offer. Claying before each wax is a good idea. Keep in mind though that when you clay it will not only take off the surface contaminants but will also strip your wax.

I didnt' read through all 2pgs so if I repeat this I'm sorry! :oops:

I use the california blade also to get the majority of water off, but before I do that I'll drive the truck up and down the street real quick to fling most of the water off the wheels, mirrors, etc. Then after I use the blade I use those towels called "The Absorber". They tend to leave slight water streaks sometimes so once the whole truck is completely dry I'll go over the truck w/ Meguiars Quick Detailer and one of those micro fiber towels. Looks awesome when I'm done! :D

Nothing works better than a bar of soap and some water

I wash with Mr. clean and a SOFT, long handled brush, and dry with a water blade followed by a terry towel. I also use Honda polish to remove bugs between washes. I seem to pick up alot of bugs...I don't know why :wink:

I did not read all this so forgive me if what I write below is a repeat. How found this on the web somewhere but forgot where. Below is how yo properly wash a car:

___________________________

Waxing How-To Simple steps to a brilliant shine By: Jeff Dusing/autoMedia.com



Highlights: STEPS | Wash | Clay | Polish | Seal | Wax

In part one ("Wax Wisdom") of this saga, we discussed the key things you need to know before you embark on the journey to flawless paint. Now you're ready for the real work.



Wash
Every good detailing starts with a thorough washing. The key is to remove as much dirt as possible to prevent it from being scraped across the paint during the wax process. Be sure to use a car wash-specific soap. Check inside cracks, creases, and around corners to make sure that all debris is removed. Follow this step with a fresh rinse and thorough drying. Removing all remnants of water is essential, so it doesn't interfere with the following steps.



Clay
The next step is to remove all contaminants and microscopic pollutants that have become embedded in your paint BEFORE you apply the wax. Would da Vinci paint on a dirty canvas? Of course not—and neither should you.

By far the best way to remove contaminants these days is with a clay bar made specifically for automotive detailing. Clay bars, when run across the surface of your paint, create enough friction to pull out the dust, metal, and other particles lodged in your paint without causing damage to the paint itself. It is very important (as with all detailing products) to read the directions carefully before using your clay bar. Most bars require a specific lubricant that will help them slide smoothly across the surface without leaving deposits. While using the bar, be sure to knead it regularly to circulate the particles now in the clay away from your paint.

If you drop the clay bar on the ground, throw it away and do not continue to use it. Chances are it will have picked up some large particles that, when rubbed across your paint, will likely cause minor and possibly severe damage. The cost of a new clay bar is minor in comparison to the cost of a new paint job.

Finally, know that clay bars, along with the unwanted surface contaminants, will also remove wax, so be sure you're ready to wax following this procedure or your paint will be left unprotected.



Polish
Once you've removed all the impurities in your paint, you're ready to take on the countless little, and not so little, dings and scratches. Polishing is a process that smoothes the paint's surface by rounding off the harsh edges of minor imperfections, leaving your paint shining and clean.

When applying, if using a liquid polish, pour the solution onto a clean towel and then rub evenly over the paint's surface. Pouring the polish directly on the car may be tempting, but it can leave dark streaks—and you will certainly burn through polish much faster. Once in process, you may work in whatever direction you like, circles or straight lines. When rubbing out scratches, move across the scratch, not along its length, to yield the best results. Don't rub too hard as this can damage your car's finish. Let the polish do the work.

Tackle the entire vehicle one body panel at time and make sure to rotate your applicator and towel regularly. The cleaner these are, the better the results you'll see. Having clean towels handy will help you work faster. They can also be helpful for wiping away excess polish from cracks and trim. By the time you're finished polishing, you'll be able to see and feel a noticeable difference from when you began.



Seal
Although polishing is a highly effective way to smooth out your paint's surface, there still may be work to do. Larger scratches are now rounded on the edges, but they are not completely in line with the surface. In this case, a sealer/glaze will do the trick. Sealers and glazes can fill in the minor depressions leaving a perfectly flat surface for waxing. This step is not essential, but for those looking for that first-class shine, it's a great help.



Wax
Now you're finally ready for the grand finale. Waxing is the process that will provide a well-earned protective layer to your now flawless paint. To apply the wax, use long even strokes, paying special attention to even application. Lay down just enough wax to cover the surface; more is not better. Once the wax has dried to a dull haze, buff vigorously with a clean cotton towel until no more wax can be seen, or more importantly felt, leaving only a high shine. After waxing the entire vehicle, be sure to go back and check for any excess you might have missed along the way.



Once you've completed these five simple steps, you'll have a refreshed exterior worthy of admiration. The best part is that you'll more than likely extended the life of your paint and the value of your vehicle.

__________________________________________________ __