Ok. I finished up some painting this Friday and the following are some step by step instructions on achieveing a top notch finish on any spray painting you do. Attached are some photos to help identifying some of the materials and processes.

STEP "0" (Materials)
Get your stuff together before starting anything, you don't want to have to run to the store to get materials in the middle of the job.
The following are the materials you'll need if painting a "small" project like the dash components.
Primer, Color paint, Clear Top Coat, sand paper(thin), masking tape, Thinner, protective gloves, and a breathing mask.
Note: Make sure you have an ample clean environment to do this job, you should NEVER do spray painting outside, because of wind and air debris that will damgage the finish of the paint.

STEP 1 (Sanding Stage)
After COMPLETELY dissassembling the piece you want to paint, "lightly" sand it to remove the factory's protective wax/finish. Enough to put a texture on the finish and remove any "smooth" spots. Having a sander really makes the job easier and faster. Don't sand it too much though. The goal is to sand it enough to remove the wax, but to still leave it a little smooth.
Rinse it with warm water and let it "air" dry.

STEP 2 (Priming Stage)
Rule of thumb: Dark color primer for dark colors and vice versa.
Before spraying anything, make sure there are no dust or debris on the dash piece, wipe the piece with your hand lightly to remove dirt.
Spray 2 good coats of primer throughout the piece in a "Zig-Zag" motion from one end to another. NEVER start from the middle, always start from the outside of the piece. Make sure the coat is a little dry before applying the next, maybe 5 minutes in between.

STEP 3 (Applying Color Paint)
This is critical and be very careful on this stage, the paint is extremely sensitive to wind and amount of spraying.
Apply 2 very light coats with 3-5 minutes in between just enough to set a base. Then apply 2-3 "good" coats with about 15-20 minutes in between. Do not over exagerate on the spraying, too much will make the paint "run" and will create a total mess. Follow the "Zig-Zag" motion from step 2. Make it a habit of spraying the piece and moving it with you hand at the same time to prevent run-offs. Let the piece sit for a good 30-40 minutes before moving to the final stage.

STEP 4 (Clear Top Coat)
This is very important to prevent scratches and peeling. The Clear Coat serves as a protective varnish against damage, and it also gives a "shine" to the finish. Following the "Zig-Zag" motion from step 2 and 3, apply 2 "good" coats. Same as the color paint, the clear coat is also extremely sensitive and will "run" if not careful. Aplly coats every 8-10 minutes. And leave the piece drying on a debry-free environment for a good 24 hour before messing with it.

STEP 5 (Installation)
If the piece is dry to the touch, feel free to install the piece, but being very careful still. The paint won't completely cure for a good 3-4 days, so if you can wait that any days, it would be wise.

Every now and then, aplly some car wax to the paint to protect it from scratches and dirt, and to keep it shiny.

Great write up. To rep or not to rep that is the question? For better or worse I think I shall.

More pictures:
One thing I forgot to add:
If you're spraying the CHROME color, do not spray Clear Coat. Somehow it will mix with the paint and change the color to grey.

Thanks for the write up. This will push the small percentage of people who want to paint their dash parts but are hesitant to over the edge lol....(like me)

Good write up goval. Really sets the instrument cluster apart. Good job.

Great write up! Looks good too!

Hey moderators, can you move this to the "How to section?"

Goval, I think you have the award for most inventive interior mod. Nice work!!

Excellent write up. REally like what you've done to your interior.

Thanks a lot Goval I've always had questions about the process of painting the interior trim.This process should work for the engine cover also ,don't you think?

Thanks a lot Goval I've always had questions about the process of painting the interior trim.This process should work for the engine cover also ,don't you think?

This process is for any interior and exterior painting. People tend to complain why their painted job is peeling and scratching easily, and they forget that there's a "process", not just spraying the color and everything will be fine.
Would you just stain the wood and leave is as it is? No, you have to sand it, stain it, and varnish it to rotect it from water and others.

Great write up, thanks Goval. It looks like the key is multiple light coats, I aways mess up by trying to do it in one and end up with runs.

Great write up, thanks Goval. It looks like the key is multiple light coats, I aways mess up by trying to do it in one and end up with runs.

Exactly! The main problem is that people loose the patience and try to do everything quick. If you're not willing to spend a good 2-3 hours on the job, then don't even start. GOTTA HAVE PATIENCE!

Nice! I like the silver MUCH more than the burgundy.

I am still hesitant to rattle can my interior because it still never gets that nice "baked" shiny look, especially now that we have a compressor and spray gun. I think I am going to bug my body man neighbor to teach me how to PAINT!

You might want to look into a better spray gun than the one that came with the compressor. I didn't look at it, but I'd maybe use it to paint a fence or a shed, not my truck...

In fact, you can get pretty snappy results with a rattle can. It's all about the process and prep!

Check out this thread on painting at my katana website for a great write up on how to paint plastic. http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=716

Nice! I like the silver MUCH more than the burgundy.

I am still hesitant to rattle can my interior because it still never gets that nice "baked" shiny look, especially now that we have a compressor and spray gun. I think I am going to bug my body man neighbor to teach me how to PAINT!
The Clear Coat gives the shiny look. The more dry time between coats on the Clear Coat, the more it's going to shine.

Great write up, thanks Goval. It looks like the key is multiple light coats, I aways mess up by trying to do it in one and end up with runs.

Gee, I was melting crayons and trying to mash it on to do it all in one step-huh, I think I'll try it your way!


Great job Goval!

Mike

Yeah maybe you are right Steve - if it was a "bonus" tool, it's probably mediocre at best :p I think I would probably use it on interior pieces though...after some test painting!

Yeah. "test painting." That's when you do the neighbors car, right? ;-)

I have a spray gun, but I think you'll spend more money on the paints than the spray cans. I know it cost about $20.00 for a little can, so that plus primer, clear coat, the hassle of cleaning up the gun before each stage will be a PITA. But of course if you have that extreme patience go for it, the results are definitely better. I'd probably opt to use the gun on an exterior/major job like painting my tonneau cover.

Excellent post as always Goval. You impress me everytime you make a new thread.
m4ck

Now I'm really thinking of doing this!!!! Thanks Goval,....

Okay so I finally finished my console lid for the 3rd time. The color is a pretty damn good match with the factory interior. Now I've put on a couple of good coats of clear coat and it is too shiny in comparison to the factory. If I give the clear coat another day or two of cure and then top it off with the paint, do you think it will wear okay or am I stuck with a gloss finish if I want durability? They don't make a matte or satin clear coat do they?