: When to change Royal Purple?
LAfirefytr 08-23-2006, 12:49 AM I am currently running Royal Purple 10/30 and am curious as to when I should consider doing an oil change. I am currently on my first run of R.P. synthetic and I'm not sure when I should consider changing. I've seen a few posts on the site here that say 7000-7500 miles and others say up to 13,000? Any recommendations from others here that know more about this subject? I've always ran conventional and changed it around 5000 miles or so b/c I didn't do much city driving or any heavy towing but since I got my Titan I have moved and now I do drive in the city. NOw I am in stop-n-go traffic almost daily and I carry goods in the truckbed and tow from time to time especially from November to January.
got_titan 08-23-2006, 12:52 AM i would run it 7500 and do an oil analysis. send it to blackstone and when you get it back we can see how it did and make an educated decision on how long to run it. it can probably go 10,000 but i wouldnt run it that far until you tested the first run......
LAfirefytr 08-23-2006, 12:58 AM Thanks GT....I've seen others on here refer to Blackstone, how do I go about performing this oil analysis through them? cost?
wurk4fordboughttitan 08-23-2006, 01:32 AM I had a Used Oil Analysis that I sent out after I changed the oil at 7500 miles. They said it looks good and check back at 13,000 or so. They didn't say it was good until then, they just said check back. Personally, I will continue to do the factory recommended 7500 miles until my warranty is up. After that, I will likely go 10,000 or so.
Our F-150's run regular Mobil 1 for 20,000 mile intervals and it isn't as nice of a lube as RP in my opinion. Lab results confirm that the Mobil could go longer, but we don't want to push our luck.
LAfirefytr 08-23-2006, 02:04 AM Thanks for info W4FBT. I actually found some of your posts after I started this thread....good stuff you wrote. I know a little bit about oil and its manufacturing/testing as my wife works for Chevron/Texaco in the laboratory and I've learned a lot from her and our discussions. All the work she does is on conventional and most of what I know refers to it. I just wasn't sure about RP and synthetics in general.
wurk4fordboughttitan 08-23-2006, 02:17 AM I'm considering writing up a full FAQ on oil for the Titan, but nobody has shown much interest.
sinnerFA 08-23-2006, 06:19 AM I'm considering writing up a full FAQ on oil for the Titan, but nobody has shown much interest.
I am intrested... also do the other lubricants as well (Axles, tranny, etc...)
"Originally Posted by wurk4fordboughttitan
I'm considering writing up a full FAQ on oil for the Titan, but nobody has shown much interest."
I would also be interested and would be interested in the lubricants as well.
got_titan 08-23-2006, 09:40 AM the rp is a little pricey...the newest oil thats posting great uoa's is penzoil platinum. its pretty cheap at walmart and will definately go 7500-10,000 miles. its available at walmart....thats what im trying next.... the 5 quart jug is 19 dollars....
LAfirefytr 08-23-2006, 12:54 PM HMMM, I may look into the Penzoil Platinum. I went with RP because my local PepBoys had a sweet deal on it a while back and I'd heard great things about it. I got a case but I should have gotten more b/c it's never been on sale since then. I looked into getting the german Castrol everybody was mentioning 5-6 months ago. I literally went to every automotive store, walmarts, targets, ect. and noone had a single drop of the German. They all had the US but no German. I live on the coast in Alabama and it's just about impossible to find anything other than 10/30. There is limited amounts of any 5 weighted oil period. It's so hot and humid here and the temp never dips very low so I guesss they figure theres little market here.
sinnerFA 08-23-2006, 01:08 PM I am running the Penzoil Platinum already...
wurk4fordboughttitan 08-23-2006, 05:06 PM I looked into getting the german Castrol everybody was mentioning 5-6 months ago.
I find it randomly at different AutoZone stores. It doesn't last long. Imagine if Castrol pulled their head out of their a$$ and made all of their oils to that spec.
As far as the FAQ goes, I guess I'll start hacking away at it. I may have to crack open a few textbooks.
LAfirefytr 08-23-2006, 07:23 PM I'd be interested whenever you get time to write it up. If you're like me, time is hard to come by lately.
bakershack 08-24-2006, 03:11 PM I'm considering writing up a full FAQ on oil for the Titan, but nobody has shown much interest.
I would be very interested. BTW, Thanks for all of your input on other threads - I have learned a lot from your sharing.
wurk4fordboughttitan 08-24-2006, 03:46 PM No problem. I'm probably 25% done, lots more to write. I may have to break it into several posts so it can fit.
bakershack 08-24-2006, 04:05 PM No problem. I'm probably 25% done, lots more to write. I may have to break it into several posts so it can fit.
When you are done, you can save it as a PDF and post it somewhere. Depending on the size, I may offer space on my (generally unused) site for it.
TOWS2Zs 08-24-2006, 05:33 PM I'm considering writing up a full FAQ on oil for the Titan, but nobody has shown much interest.
*interested*
titannup 08-24-2006, 06:29 PM I'm considering writing up a full FAQ on oil for the Titan, but nobody has shown much interest.
Please do. Also, where will this info be located for reference. Thanks
wurk4fordboughttitan 08-24-2006, 08:10 PM That would be up to the moderators, probably as a sticky in the technical section if the mods deem it worthy.
stevestitan 08-25-2006, 09:27 AM I'm in for the oil info as well. I am running RP right now and I've been changing it every 5000 miles. I'm running the 5W-30. Shold I switch to 10W-30?? It gets cold here but not for long periods and my truck is garaged? My driving is mostly highway speeds and I tow a few things from time to time. I noticed that when I ran the Castrol 5W-30 under hard accelleration I would hear from the firewall area what sounded like lifters tapping once the RPM's where up there? Since running the RP I have not heard any of this.
Thanks for taking this on and I look forward to seeing what you find.
Toomnymods 08-25-2006, 07:51 PM I run Royal Purple as well the 5W-30, but since I'm always running my truck hard almost daily and taking it to the track atleast once a month i change it every 4k miles. Better to be safe than sorry in my opinion..
wurk4fordboughttitan 08-25-2006, 10:44 PM I would say I tow 3,000 - 6,000 lbs at least twice a week without the tow package and I idle quite a bit in front of my properties, because they're not complete and have no cooling to speak of.
My oil analysis came back at 7,500 with excellent results on RP 10w30. You can easily do the factory rec 7,500 on any synthetic. They're engineered to do changes beyond the regular intervals (10,000 - 25,000). So doing the factory recommendation is nothing.
You change conventional oils early because their base stock (petroleum part) starts to break down and the adative package starts to depleate. Neither happens easily to a synthetic. Especially one as nice as Royal Purple.
My write-up will clear much of this up. Changing synthetic at 3,000 - 6,000 miles unless you've done some serious circuit racing or hauling is just a waste.
Steve, you are farther north than some parts of Canada. I think 5w30 is a fine choice. Especially synthetic 5w30. Synthetics do MUCH, MUCH better on any remotely cold startup. You do get a 50 degree low every once and a while during the summer and a lot of the times your climate barely breaks 80. Unless you really romp on this thing or tow, I'd say you wouldn't see much of a benefit with 10w30.
Blue_Water_Rush 09-27-2006, 10:17 AM sounded like lifters tapping
There are no lifters in these engines since they use overhead cams, but it could have been other valvetrain noise. The injectors will make sounds like that too, depending on ambient temps., so the noise you were hearing might very well have had nothing to do with the oil.
I had been using Mobil 1 EP 10W30 and ran the first fill on the synthetic to almost 10,000 miles, with 3 samples pulled and analyzed during the run. The wear numbers were good and consistent, and overall the results indicated I could squeeze more miles out of it, but I just couldn't do it, even though the oil was very clean, and viscosity & flashpoint were excellent. I changed it out for the 0W40, since 30 weights in this truck will tend to shear back to almost a 20 weight, (especially in my case, because during the cold months, I tend to warm the truck up a little longer, and my normal driving involves a lot of short trips, allowing small amounts of fuel to enter the oil. The summer months do not pose this issue). These trucks supposedly like a 30 weight oil, hence the 40 wt. substitution. The zero number allows the oil to get to the parts quicker upon starting, so I notice less knock on startup. I just sent a sample off to Blackstone with 4,500 miles on it, so we'll see how it is faring in a couple days.
I would like to see some reports on the Royal Purple as well. I would consider using it if the results are encouraging.
PenguinLE 09-27-2006, 01:59 PM I have to say, this thread has my interest peaked. I've never used a synthetic before, but I'm considering a switch to RP or Mobil 1.
Jedidiah 10-06-2006, 03:40 PM Im currently running RP 5w30 in my Titan. I live in Tx, and obviously the cold weather is not a big concern right now. With that said, Im at 7500 miles and just picked up 7 more liters of RP 5w30 today with a Mobil 1 oil filter.
My question is, due to the cost of this stuff and the data that has been collected, would it be fair to assume that my truck is good to 10K miles? I don't want to take risks, and obviously have the option to change it out today, but if I can go longer safely then I would prefer it.
In this interval I have towed my boat about 600 miles (HWY) and just got back from a 4K trip to California. Most of these miles have been hwy miles....... anyones thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
NateL 10-06-2006, 03:55 PM I don't run Royal Purple in my Titan but if I did, I would probably do a sample at 10k and go from there.
I do run Royal Purple in my Scout, and it gets changed yearly or whenever the motor drinks some water, whichever comes first. I only put about 2-4k on it a year, but it spends a lot of time running. I'm sure I could go a lot longer on the oil, but it's part of my getting the truck ready in the winter ritual. Depending on what I've sucked through the motor, it's usually still nice and purple when I drain it.
bakershack 10-06-2006, 04:48 PM I wouldn't go past the maintenance schedule (long interval 7500 miles). If you have problems, Nissan could use that as an excuse not to cover it under warranty.
ttugrad95 10-06-2006, 05:54 PM With that many highways miles your probably good for another couple thousand if your not in warranty. If the warranty is still in effect change it.
PenguinLE 10-14-2006, 06:32 PM Should we be keeping the receipts from oil/oil filter purchases for warranty purposes?
I usually just buy the stuff and ditch the receipts...
wurk4fordboughttitan 10-14-2006, 07:12 PM It's not a bad idea. I just think it's pointless. Just because you bought something doesn't mean you put it in. I could go to Sam's Club and buy 2 barrels of oil. How am I supposed to prove that I changed the oil every 3,750 to 7,500 miles? A reciept may tell you a purchase date, but what about the mileage? What about the guy that got some free oil from a friend? Should he request a reciept? If you did the said service, you did the service.
What most people don't understand is that the warranty giver has to PROVE that you deviated or that your deviation from the service recommendation caused the failure. The law is on the side of the consumer. If you say you obeyed the schedule and someone can back you like a wife or friend, you are covered.
When dealers try to deny claims, sometimes you just have to call the manufacturer directly. Some service managers get off on being able to tell people no. Some are good knowledgable people, but most are highschool dropout loosers that never made it anywhere but the greeting table at the entrance to a service center. I know this because I used to manage at a dealer and I knew more about the cars than the idiots that were supposed to give advice to customers.
The stories I could tell. The heat cases I could write about. I personally NEVER go to a dealer for anything other than warranty work.
TITAN57 10-15-2006, 09:56 PM I no longer change the oil & filter because there is no way the dealer
can prove that I didn't do it.:D
-
MAINTENANCE AND RECORDS
As a condition of this warranty, you are responsible for properly using, maintaining and caring for your vehicle as outlined in the owner’s manual, and maintaining copies of all maintenance records and receipts for review by Nissan. Failure to do so is likely to result in the denial of warranty coverage. Evidence of the performance of the required maintenance should be kept and presented as proof of such maintenance in connection with related warranty repairs. To assist you in maintaining appropriate record, the Maintenance Log Booklet, located in the information folder, can be used along with supporting repair invoices, receipts and other such records. Your Nissan dealer’s records are adequate proof of maintenance, but copies should always be retained.
bakershack 10-15-2006, 10:00 PM You could keep the used oil plug washer as additional proof, but I don't think it is necessary. On the kind of repairs we are talking about - expensive ones - the dealership knows that if it goes to court, your receipts for buying the stuff, along with a dated log of maintenance, will suffice as proof of the maintenance.
ttugrad95 10-16-2006, 12:40 PM I keep a file in my office for the truck and put my receipt for oil and filter purchase in there. I write the milage on the truck on the receipt. This is in addition to the maintenance log. I also (just to be more anal) just started using a program called "Vehicle Manager 2006" where i log all maintenance. It has the abililty if I opened it more to give reminders of when service is due. As others have said though, its up to the dealer to prove that you didn't do it, not you to prove you did. If you have an engine problem that could be caused by oil then I would collect an oil sample prior to taking the vehicle for service so you could have it analyzed if need be. The chances of a major engine failure within the warranty period are pretty low, even if you don't perform maintenance as you should, they know this. Unless you just falt out don't change your oil at all, most of the problems improper maintenance will cause will be down the road, after warranty. My .02
hotajax 10-28-2006, 12:03 PM Try Amsoil 5W-30. With their filters, they offer a guarantee (?) ofr 25,000 miles between changes. Personally, I do not intend to do that until after my 60,000 mile warranty on the drive train expires. For the moment, I am running the amsoil every 7500 mi.
waynesworld 11-22-2006, 05:52 PM Where did you find the info for the 7500 mile changeout for the Syn .Oil -I have looked but cannot find anything in my manuals
plm7878 12-07-2006, 04:51 PM Well whats the best oil to use, Amsoil, purple, Mobil 1, ?
NateL 12-07-2006, 05:00 PM Well whats the best oil to use, Amsoil, purple, Mobil 1, ?
What is the best soft drink, Coke, Pepsi, RC?
You can read reports about the best oil all over the internet until your eyes bleed and you'll still have to ask yourself the same question.
You can't go wrong with any of those 3 brands. I'd go with the one that is the easiest to find in the weight you are wanting in your area.
how can you tell if a castrol oil is in canada specs? Also i used RP diff oil is that a good oil to use for you diff? thanks,
AgTitan06 12-08-2006, 11:24 PM I'm considering writing up a full FAQ on oil for the Titan, but nobody has shown much interest.
I'm interested.
travelboysteve 01-19-2007, 09:11 PM *interested*
me too,.....:udaman:
leualex 01-20-2007, 08:50 PM I would say I tow 3,000 - 6,000 lbs at least twice a week without the tow package and I idle quite a bit in front of my properties, because they're not complete and have no cooling to speak of.
My oil analysis came back at 7,500 with excellent results on RP 10w30. You can easily do the factory rec 7,500 on any synthetic. They're engineered to do changes beyond the regular intervals (10,000 - 25,000). So doing the factory recommendation is nothing.
You change conventional oils early because their base stock (petroleum part) starts to break down and the adative package starts to depleate. Neither happens easily to a synthetic. Especially one as nice as Royal Purple.
My write-up will clear much of this up. Changing synthetic at 3,000 - 6,000 miles unless you've done some serious circuit racing or hauling is just a waste.
Steve, you are farther north than some parts of Canada. I think 5w30 is a fine choice. Especially synthetic 5w30. Synthetics do MUCH, MUCH better on any remotely cold startup. You do get a 50 degree low every once and a while during the summer and a lot of the times your climate barely breaks 80. Unless you really romp on this thing or tow, I'd say you wouldn't see much of a benefit with 10w30.
I have a 2006 Titan and just made it to 1200 miles. When should I switch to synthetic oil?
Toomnymods 01-21-2007, 10:55 AM not till after 5-7k miles..
MDJamesD 01-21-2007, 10:17 PM There are no lifters in these engines since they use overhead cams, but it could have been other valvetrain noise. The injectors will make sounds like that too, depending on ambient temps., so the noise you were hearing might very well have had nothing to do with the oil.
Are you sure there aren't any lifters in this truck? My 85 300zx is a single cam six and has hydraulic lifters. unless they found a way for the cam lobes to directly manipulate the valve stems
ttugrad95 01-26-2007, 03:06 AM I have a 2006 Titan and just made it to 1200 miles. When should I switch to synthetic oil?
You can go ahead and make the switch. I got my free oil change done from the dealer at 500 miles then switched to synthetic at about 1200. Many recommend waiting to give the engine time to break in but thats kind of old school thinking. Todays engines are machined so precisely they require little break in. Some vehicles are shipped from the factory with synthetic.
| |