I did this how to by request of one of our members here. No matter what job it is, easy or hard, it's always nice to have pictures and an idea of what you're getting into, especially if you've never done it before. I made these instructions with the intent on removing the skid plate of which I highly recommend. I advise this because it's an excellent opportunity to just look things over while you're under there. Checking for leaks and anything else that may look odd. So here it is with pics. Also the full size pics can be seen on my pixagogo site, just click on the link near my signature.

Instructions:

1. Make sure your engine is up to temp. before draining the oil. This will keep the metals in suspension and drain out into your pan.

2. After you have changed the oil, start the engine and run it for about 1 second, shut it off, wait a couple of seconds, then restart it and let it run. I recommend this to keep the "pump up" time to a minimum.

3. While the engine is running look for leaks at the drain plug and filter.

4. Reinstall the skidplate and you're done!!

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-Tyxopi6nDu4boJnXdQYJPw5ScKl6qnwymwprtUf9pAeTgKzx-40eMU4zMqzGiWzMRlLxa-TdUB!30QorZScvJT3IEdIFjEJVru1yQQ_/Oil_change_01.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-TyxopjwFlpDOsfU1u78o9HTHX0csFlWPEcSkkkKfq83mlBJBgN WEumXAKuRS29dxBY93vn-ughyHncO6cxEL9vbJQS2wohwzUDp-3M_/Oil_change_02.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-Tyxopjqh1p4ngUKo3jz4ZqyWhulk3J5-3FD7e2u3LqcHcZO3Z9nMbVeRLZN9oALslJy6DL-LIydJolcGieR4bBVlPhkBtVXc1g5UC8_/Oil_change_03.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-TyxophjKijmVO3xQizwfOAm6Uyal46ByN38gY8!vvYbuqUQIyN kYBlC81SbaF7TFYQHz1tq0Pf9RdO3Kw2dIeSp3WB1qQbtx0L4h BM_/Oil_change_04.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-TyxopglXAWhuDpjT!BBRPvJFF51mNIGskx0LLEFvgEZOwztIU6 rOjfpzvw!uUbyjkgCJ0e1U0dKV9aG0cFqUfPYN4mHdpg3Qo8Gc d8_/Oil_change_05.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-TyxopjVEaRDBxSckURGjBkOtTKXVOgGn1oUaZIxDto5yft2yxr OgYnJzusQZFBWYOYWNP2rvK7NU9B2EQjsk7hPFG8w7YEaeojsP P8_/Oil_change_06.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-Tyxopg8HPGPtPI4nJk-I4i!oPHOC29YorYP4ILkHYLQ!0jTCybSW4sWsDBA!MUyfqDDKS Whl2usXbEuX7ICriZtPVQ108ru-0DQkdI_/Oil_change_07.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-TyxopgokWICp4Eu8nrMY4pLHINhQsI!Ah1G5-AS76-AwEMqZxreXTtfXD7suA8XJnCL37DJW4tk79yVXPX9JjS9dS7dG ygR63x!hRk_/Oil_change_08.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-TyxopjUlgr7IyvxTOluRpcDQnzOnFCr0QVkqwN2FrKmPflYOWW 8iQLbFM3rbQUGSzES1T-BbHq8uN5rlIZHaPIsH3IvCdKi!PLzAvU_/Oil_change_09.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-Tyxopj6cE1VgznjaSGzvfco6A!8fMYY42LJJEC8Y6y19G-tPSOd4E0KYV3WAO4TJj3ANK!H09jqh6ecXu0tG5PYem7U!kjPQ 2dFoc8_/Oil_change_10.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-Tyxoph7ZIiAbw-9GloaoybVBJVtelb-n8IoWPn57REfAEFDwWBPLAcsc9JubXFjJALoYR2BCMKz2Qmwp3 69UM0X1ajh8fWwztzgfSI_/Oil_change_11.jpg

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5uRuA-TyxophRbGN0FIW61bh7202IWxNhexzStwnX8juZj02zRO6gqrI J8UE3f!LLiMIFJCw-FMQHTchFxLOHBtG0rIkPaP5K3FNCaI6XCf8_/Oil_change_12.jpg

I did this how to by request of one of our members here. No matter what job it is, easy or hard, it's always nice to have pictures and an idea of what you're getting into, especially if you've never done it before. I made these instructions with the intent on removing the skid plate of which I highly recommend. I advise this because it's an excellent opportunity to just look things over while you're under there. Checking for leaks and anything else that may look odd. So here it is with pics. Also the full size pics can be seen on my pixagogo site, just click on the link near my signature.

Instructions:

1. Make sure your engine is up to temp. before draining the oil. This will keep the metals in suspension and drain out into your pan.

2. After you have changed the oil, start the engine and run it for about 1 second, shut it off, wait a couple of seconds, then restart it and let it run. I recommend this to keep the "pump up" time to a minimum.

3. While the engine is running look for leaks at the drain plug and filter.

4. Reinstall the skidplate and you're done!!


Dear Abby, I mean JT, I changed my oil but didn't use a crush washer. Why are we instructed to use these mysterious metal rings?

Call me an autoshop flunky, but I have never used a washer on an oil drain plug on the Titan or any other vehicle. I am assuming that the only purpose for using this washer is to help prevent leaking correct? So if I don't use one and I have no leaks, I have no worries, right mate?

same thought had crossed my mind

Your drain plug should already have a washer on it from the factory, and no it isn't "critical" if you didn't change it, but it is cheap insurance to install a new one at your next oil change. They are less then a buck to buy, heck I've even heard some say the parts dept. throws them in when they buy filters.

1. Factory fill I assume washer installed
2. 1st change free from dealer assume washer was replaced
3. 3rd change by Havock and didn't see a washer, didn't use a washer.

But after reading TT this morning I found out that I might not have noticed the washer because it is so tightly bound to the plug. I will have to check next time I change it, but my immediate change will be free again from the dealer. Soooo it will be another 4-5K miles before I put in that Mobil1 15K EP 5W-30 that I have sitting at home! (can't pass up the free oil change)

Why did you remove the off-road skid plate when it has a door you can open to access the filter?

Why did you remove the off-road skid plate when it has a door you can open to access the filter?

I advise this because it's an excellent opportunity to just look things over while you're under there. Checking for leaks and anything else that may look odd.

In order to make my filter changes a little less messy, I started popping a hole in the bottom of the oil filter before removing it. This allowed the oil to drain out of the filter and avoid the big rush of oil that gets everywhere.

Just curious why more people don't do this? Is there some harm in doing things this way?

In order to make my filter changes a little less messy, I started popping a hole in the bottom of the oil filter before removing it. This allowed the oil to drain out of the filter and avoid the big rush of oil that gets everywhere.

Just curious why more people don't do this? Is there some harm in doing things this way?

hmmm... Never thought of doing this. Might be handy since the drain trough is a neat idea, but still drips oil all inside the skid plat, sway bar, etc. when I remove the full oil filter.

JT,

What's the consensus on oil to use at this point? Also, what kind of oil filters do you use? What do you think of the "poking a hole in the filter before removal" idea?

JT,

What's the consensus on oil to use at this point? Also, what kind of oil filters do you use? What do you think of the "poking a hole in the filter before removal" idea?

Well it depends on whether you want to run synthetic or not. If you want to run regular dino oil, Chevron Supreme 5W-30 and Texaco Havoline 5W-30 are probably the two best choices. At least from the oil samples I've seen. If you want to go with synthetic, and if you can find it, the Mobil 1 0W-40 has done awesome in oil samples. If you're like me and can't seem to find it then hopefully the new Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 will do just as good. That's what I'm going to try next and will do an oil sample to see.

I always use the Factory Nissan OEM filter and if you want to poke a hole in the filter to help, then go for it. I don't do the hole poking thing but if it works for others then great...

Thanks to this great tutorial, I did my first ever oil change this morning - it was my Titan's second change at 6,306 miles. I made the switch to Mobil 1 5w-30. Here are a few things I learned:

The skid plate is somewhat of a pain to take on and off. I ended up just kinda resting it on my chest. The hardest part about it is the front hex bolts b/c they bolt into these moveable clips. So you kinda have fool around with the bolts when you put the plate back on. Also note that a small piece on one of the four clips had broken off on my truck. It's not an imperative piece, but I was still a bit dismayed by it.

Needless to say, I got oil all over the place. I used the most worthless oil drain pan ever:

http://altura.speedera.net/ccimg.catalogcity.com/210000/214800/214862/products/12065635.jpg

This thing is a total POS mainly b/c that big yellow top doesn't screw on worth a !@#! and the opening just isn't big enough for the changing trajectories of falling oil ...

Case in point, when I first got the drain plug off, I got oil all over my jettech'ed hands (in other words, I was wearing the latex gloves - something I've come to learn are MUST HAVES thanks to Dale). I quickly moved the pan in the path of the falling oil, smiled to myself, and crawled out to get some paper towels to clean off my gloved hands. About two minutes later, I decide to check on the progress of the oil. OOPS! Failed to realize that the falling oil would change directions significantly once it got low enough ... I had oil ALL OVER the place. I mean, pools of black oil spreading out all over the ground. Here's the cleaned up spot:

http://img247.echo.cx/img247/2814/oilspill5gn.jpg

Yeah - terrible. Cleaning this up was the hardest part of the whole experience (I say "clean" but that above picture is post-cleaning). Otherwise, I threw in the 7 qts of oil (just right!) and was done. I couldn't have done it without this tutorial, which I had printed out right next to me. Thanks Dale!

Anyhow, this Mobil 1 EP is supposed to last for a year or 15,000 miles (I'm sure I'd hit a year first). I'm looking forward to seeing how it does.

Thanks to this great tutorial, I did my first ever oil change this morning - it was my Titan's second change at 6,306 miles. I made the switch to Mobil 1 5w-30. Here are a few things I learned:

The skid plate is somewhat of a pain to take on and off. I ended up just kinda resting it on my chest. The hardest part about it is the front hex bolts b/c they bolt into these moveable clips. So you kinda have fool around with the bolts when you put the plate back on. Also note that a small piece on one of the four clips had broken off on my truck. It's not an imperative piece, but I was still a bit dismayed by it.

Needless to say, I got oil all over the place. I used the most worthless oil drain pan ever:

http://altura.speedera.net/ccimg.catalogcity.com/210000/214800/214862/products/12065635.jpg

This thing is a total POS mainly b/c that big yellow top doesn't screw on worth a !@#! and the opening just isn't big enough for the changing trajectories of falling oil ...

Case in point, when I first got the drain plug off, I got oil all over my jettech'ed hands (in other words, I was wearing the latex gloves - something I've come to learn are MUST HAVES thanks to Dale). I quickly moved the pan in the path of the falling oil, smiled to myself, and crawled out to get some paper towels to clean off my gloved hands. About two minutes later, I decide to check on the progress of the oil. OOPS! Failed to realize that the falling oil would change directions significantly once it got low enough ... I had oil ALL OVER the place. I mean, pools of black oil spreading out all over the ground. Here's the cleaned up spot:

http://img247.echo.cx/img247/2814/oilspill5gn.jpg

Yeah - terrible. Cleaning this up was the hardest part of the whole experience (I say "clean" but that above picture is post-cleaning). Otherwise, I threw in the 7 qts of oil (just right!) and was done. I couldn't have done it without this tutorial, which I had printed out right next to me. Thanks Dale!

Anyhow, this Mobil 1 EP is supposed to last for a year or 15,000 miles (I'm sure I'd hit a year first). I'm looking forward to seeing how it does.

LOL That's pretty funny. The oil pan doesn't serve a whole lot of purpose when you forget to take out the little plug either. :airhead: I won't tell how I know this!!! :nono:
This is the first time I've really looked at this post since I have a 2 W, non off-road.......What washer??????? :rollingeyez: There's a washer on the plug???????? I've changed the oil in this thing 3 times. Didn't change, see, or know about a washer. :beating:

Don't know what to say. I have a 4x2 and it was there. It was smashed flat (<1mm) and dirty and a little hard to see, but it was there.

It's copper looking and mashed up against the bolt - you gotta pry the sucker off - I used a 6-in-1 tool:

http://www.farm-home.com/images/jb21/36705721c.jpg

http://www.toolking.com/images/products/bigtn11510.jpg

Actually it looked more like this. And I promise I didn't realize the dang image was so freaking big and I'd change it were it not for this thread being locked for editing. Oh and finally, no my 6-in-1 tool doesn't say "Titan" on it :(

JetTech, you are so the man. That is what I like to call breaking it down shot gun style. I needed that, thank you. Figures I can take a helicopter apart and put it back together, but I'm auto-mechanically retarded.

:udaman:
Thanks for this post JT!

Thanks for the excellent how-to. This is my first truck but I've always done my own oil changes. The Mobil 1 0W-40 is sometimes known as the European Blend and is readily available out in SoCal.

We picked up our Titan with 5 miles on it yesterday. I'm assuming Nissan has a break in oil from the factory. Should I switch over to the synthetic with my first change or go with a good dyno oil?

I'll be using the OEM filters as well.

Thanks for the excellent how-to. This is my first truck but I've always done my own oil changes. The Mobil 1 0W-40 is sometimes known as the European Blend and is readily available out in SoCal.

We picked up our Titan with 5 miles on it yesterday. I'm assuming Nissan has a break in oil from the factory. Should I switch over to the synthetic with my first change or go with a good dyno oil?

I'll be using the OEM filters as well.

Nissan uses just plain old Valvoline 5W-30 from the factory. This I've been able to conclude from oil samples. You can switch to synthetics anytime you want, and using OEM filters is always a good thing.

I was told that the oil has to be changed every 3,750 miles or it voids the warranty. Are people changing synthetic oil that often?

Can you change the oil yourself and not void the warranty? How do you 'prove' that you changed it?

I was told that the oil has to be changed every 3,750 miles or it voids the warranty. Are people changing synthetic oil that often?

Can you change the oil yourself and not void the warranty? How do you 'prove' that you changed it?

Hi predator and welcome to CT!!

You can change your oil up to 7500 miles depending on the conditions you drive in. You can certainly change the oil yourself, and what most people do is save the receipts just in case an issue arises. Also if you do it yourself, it will not void your warranty.

Again welcome and enjoy the forum!! :D

my 05 CC just got its first oil change today! I took the car to the dealer this time since the first time oil change is free :flamer:
I bought 7qts of Mobil 1 5w-30 and took them with the car to the dealer, but 20minuts later the sevice guy came to me and said "1qt short". so my Titan got 8qts with filter change!! is it nomal??

I was told that the oil has to be changed every 3,750 miles or it voids the warranty. Are people changing synthetic oil that often?

Can you change the oil yourself and not void the warranty? How do you 'prove' that you changed it?

The warranty cannot be voided by your maintenance procedures unless they can prove you screwed it up somehow. The manual has 3 different maintenance plans. If you follow Schedule 2, 7500 miles is your recommended change time. If you do it yourself, have a lube shop do it, or the guys at Walmart, it does not matter. If your engine takes a crap and the techs can determine it was oil related (hello, RedRight9 can this be done) then they don't have to replace the engine under warranty. Just because the dealer doesn't do the oil change doesn't mean your not doing it.

If you want to CYA, keep your own maintenance log. You can even use the Schedule book in your owners manual. Keep reciepts and stuff from the shop who does it, or your receipts from your oil purchases.

Old thread... I know.

I just got an STP filter (S6607 if I recall correctly) and it is significantly shorter than the stock filter I am removing. Is there a problem with this, or is it ok that it is shorter?

Prompt responses would be great, seeing as how my Titan is bleeding its life blood at this very moment.

Andrew

I would make sure you got the right filter. I can't imagine putting on a filter that is smaller than the one currently on there.

I don't remember how bid the OEM filter was, but I know that my $16 AmsOil Filter is SMALL!!! It's one that several Nissan cars/trucks use. Maybe 4" tall or so.

Yep, I just confirmed, it's the right one. Crazy.

And that old filter was on there CRAZY tight. I had to use those pliers with jaws on them to get the thing off... never had one that tight before.

Andrew

Just curious about why Nissan Tech designed the access door to get to the oil filter? Answer: I think they wanted it to be used. Or is it because the skid plate is too bothersome to be removed each time?

That's why it's there, but there are some members whose beefy mits may not fit in there very well. Also, some think that it makes it cleaner to do it that way. I use the door, myself.

For those desiring to do their own first oil change but are reluctant because of the reports of the factory installed filter is difficult/near impossible to remove, this cheap oil filter 'wrench' (Wal-Mart ~ $3.00) will get the filter off without problems. Make sure you get the 65/67 mm version to fit the filter properly. For those w/ the Offroad package, follow JetTech's excellent instructions at the beginning of the thread. For those with the non-offroad skidpan, remove the 2 10mm bolts behind the bumper, loosen the 2 10mm bolts at the rear of the skidpan, and slide the pan forward until it clears the rear bolts, drop the back down and pull the pan to the rear. Follow the remaining instructions in this post.

Has anyone added an engine oil cooler? And how well did it work? Thank you For your Input.

Has anyone added an engine oil cooler? And how well did it work? Thank you For yoour Input.
The Titan comes standard with an oil cooler. See http://www.clubtitan.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16358&page=2 for additional information.

I just use the fram filters and mobil 1 5w 30

Allright fellas,

I'm a first-timer in the oil changing department. Just completed doing 7 quarts of Royal Purple 5w30 with a Mobil 1 filter.

Lessons learned from this experience (most of which is common sense not applied and maybe a few additions.)

1) Make sure to have alot of cardboard underneath your truck....I had a box underneath the oil catch container, but the oil (instead of falling right underneath) decided to shoot out at like a 55-60 degree angle, causing a lil bit of a mess. The cardboard took alot of it, but I still managed to get a fair amount on the driveway (I hear kitty litter eats oil up.......T/F?)

2) LATEX GLOVES ARE A MUST! I don't know what I would have done without them..... great suggestion from some of the previous posters.

3) Remember where you put the bolt from the oil catch can.... I swear it took me 20 minutes to find the dang thing, and I ended up accidentally throwing it away. (Flame suit is now on.)

4) Make sure to have a oil filter wrench of some sort..... this is a must. For all of you who think you can man-handle this thing, don't do this duty without this tool.... if for no other reason to make sure the thing is as tight as it can get when putting on the new one.

5) Have lots of industrial paper towels... just a must.

6) If your like me and know that an accident is imminent, lose your shirt, unless you don't mind throwing it away afterwards.

7) An oil funnel makes the job so much easier.... spend a lil extra and get one.

I think that is about it. Again, this is more for the Noobs attempting this quasi-simple task. Make sure to go into this with the right tools, following the procedure of this thread, and it should be one of the easiest exercies that you will do with your vehicle....... now to go dip myself in some high-industrial soap.. feel like I just came off an oil rig.

Good post Jedidiah and congrats on completing your first oil change. Not that big of a deal huh?

Kitty litter works great for oil spills. I made a heck of a mess on my last change because I forgot to open the air relief cap on the oil container and it over flowed. I was in a hurry and bought some oil absorbant at O'Reilleys, guess what? It was kitty litter, just more expensive.
You'll get better at it, but still make messes. Before owning a home I used to do my oil changes at a friend's place. After a couple he went and bought one of those huge Blitz drip trays and wrote "Dave's Pan" on it. Apparently I'm messy.

There is no need to use an oil wrench other than to get the old filter off. Hand tight is all you need on the new filter. Just make sure your hands are clean or you have a new set of latex gloves on so you can get a grip on it.

I have a small supply of t-shirts for oil changes and yard work. They have all kinds of neat stains on them. I consider them my badges of honor. lol Losing my shirt isn't an option, I prefer to keep my beer belly under wraps. :)

JetTech, great writeup. It sure helped me out. I chose to leave the off-road skid plate in place. I had it off a few weeks ago so I already knew what things looked like behind it. Plus, when someone says not to do something I tend to look at it as a challenge (my wife reallys hates it when I do that).

Jedidiah made a point that I want to underscore:

4) Make sure to have a oil filter wrench of some sort..... this is a must. For all of you who think you can man-handle this thing, don't do this duty without this tool.... if for no other reason to make sure the thing is as tight as it can get when putting on the new one.


My oil filter was on TIGHT. It is also a very small oil filter. The oil filter wrenches that I have used in the past were all too large. One of them fit pretty close, but because of the clearance and how tight the filter was screwed on I just couldn't get it off. Taking off the skid plate would not have helped in this case.

To get the filter off I had to purchase a new filter "wrench". I wanted to be able to go through trap door in the off-road skid plate so I bought the gizmo shown in the attached picture. It goes on the end of a 6" extension for my ratchet. The way it works is that the more rotational force you put on it the tighter the grip will get. It did the job and should fit most oil filters. But now that the oil filter on my Titan isn't screwed on so tight I may not need it.

Other observations:
- The oil pan for the Titan is the smallest I have ever seen.
- The oil gushed out of the drain plug at a ferocious rate. It splashed into my catch basin with enough force that oil splashed onto the passenger side tire.
- I might try poking a hole in the oil filter next time. That's a good idea. But the oil in the filter was still under some pressure. If I poke a hole in the filter I may get a stream of oil that I have no control over.
- I drove my truck up onto ramps to give me a little more room to work underneath. A lift or bigger tires would help here, but I don't see that happening just to make my oil changes easier. <g>
- I must have drained it almost dry because I used 7.5 qts. The oil level was only a little more than half way between the low and high markers.

I changed to the AMSoil 0w30 from the original oil that the truck came with. This was at 1,100 miles on the truck. I also pulled a sample for Blackstone so I have a baseline to compare future oil changes.

You do not need to take the skid plate off the change the oil filter ! Reach in the side opening of the shid plate and you can grab the filter! Guys 6'3" have done it when I have showed them !

You do not need to take the skid plate off to the change the oil filter! Reach in the side opening of the skid plate and you can grab the filter! Guys 6'3" have done it when I have showed them!
:lesen-big:

I advise this because it's an excellent opportunity to just look things over while you're under there. Checking for leaks and anything else that may look odd.