Well, I did my first oil change and i put in around 6.5 quarts of Cheveron Supreme 10w/30 and i have no idea if this is good oil for my titan or not. I am usually in stop and go traffic but sometimes I kick it into high rpm's but this is rare.So give me some input on these questions: What oil is suited for this kind of driving? and what is the difference between 10w/30 over 5w/30?

5w is a lighter oil than 10w. 5w is usally used in 4cyl with over head cams.
Also helps come winter when it is very cold outside. It isn't as thick as 10w and will flow to the top of the motor easier.

I haven't done my first service yet but when i do, i'll use 10w30 valvoline.
I have used that brand for years and it don't seem to build sludge like quacker state and some of the other oils do.

the last number would be for how you use the engine. the 30 for example would be for normal use.

40 for towing as it is a thicker oil and 50 for high hp engines.

This is my opinion and i hope it helps you out.

I may even go with a semi synthetic valvoline as it is better yet.

I'm using Mobil 1 10/30. I used to switch back and forth between 10/40 in the Summer and 10/30 in the Winter. I have only found Mobil 1 in 10/30 so I just stick with it year around! It doesn't get that cold in Texas though.

I believe Wurk4FordBoughtTitan is one of the oil gurus on this forum. He is working up a primer for Titan fliuds.

5w30 is the oil recommended in the manual for the widest array of climates. Most here run synthetic, Mobil 1 is a popular choice. I used Amsoil on my last oil change. I may or may not use it again, just depends on my mood when the time comes.

Thx for the feedback guys! goodguy you helped me get a lot confusion out of the way about the oil types...I like the Chevron Supreme and I might change to Mobil 1 after it turns cheaper............which it won't....maybe later...So i might change to Mobil 1 after i run out of the box of Chevron Supreme. Well thx again guys

I just changed last weekend from Mobile 1 extended performance (5/30) to Mobile 1 synthetic (5/30). I can not say that noticed immediate improvement or anything (after all it is just an oil change), but the synthetic should help extend the life of the engine.

Thx for the feedback guys! goodguy you helped me get a lot confusion out of the way about the oil types...I like the Chevron Supreme and I might change to Mobil 1 after it turns cheaper............which it won't....maybe later...So i might change to Mobil 1 after i run out of the box of Chevron Supreme. Well thx again guys

The Math:

Regular Oil: $2.00/Qt. (6.5 Qts. @ $14.00-Change every 3,000 Miles)
Mobil 1 Synthetic: $4.00/Qt. (6.5 Qts. @ $28.00-Change every 10K)

$14.00 x 3.1=$43.40
$28.00 x 1=$28.00

I added tax to each and rounded up on division...don't forget you need to buy 2.1 Extra filters!

:hi:

got_titan has used Chevron in the past and got his best oil sample analysis results with it. Today's oils are so far advance, you just about can't do anything wrong except not putting any back in. LOL

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

check out this forum for info.

I would stick with conventional 5W30 until you have around 11,000 mi. on the odo. This is good for normal break-in, with frequent changes (i.e. 3,500 to 4000 mi.). Then switch to full synthetic. Synthetic won't thicken up in cold weather, and won't thin out in hot weather, providing stable viscosity and consistency. It normally has better additive pkgs. also, for keeping the engine cleaner and minimizing sludge buildup. This engine likes a 30 wt. oil, but can tend to shear it back a little, mainly due to fuel present in the oil from frequent short trips or longer idling and warm-up times during winter. So I decided on my latest drain, to switch from Mobil 1 EP 10W30 (synthetic) to Mobil 1 0W40 (synthetic), so any shearing due to the afore-mentioned conditions, will not take the oil below a 30 wt. The 0 number will help the oil get to the moving parts quicker also, minimizing wear metals. I have 5,000 miles on this oil so far, and have not had to add one drop to it. It is also still very clean and golden colored.

Here is a report of my oil analysis over a number of samples, the first being pennzoil conventional, than all synthetic.

Blue Water Rush, you seem to have a few things confused.

Look at a spec sheet.

At 40 degrees celcius and every other temperature, 10w30 M1 is thinner than 0w40. The pour point of the 10w30 is also 9 degrees lower.

The 0w40 M1 contains viscocity modifiers to obtain that wide ratio. It shears to a 30 weight rather quickly WITHOUT factors like fuel dilution. However. you don't get the cold cranking benefits. Instead you end up with the equivalent of a 20w30. None of the 30 weight M1 products contain viscocity modifiers and are much more shear stable. Especially 10w30.

There is no reason to stick to conventional oil at the begining of any engine's life with the exception of the Redline brand. There are many engines that come from the factory with synthetic fill. The Corvette engines switched from conventional to syn factory fill with no engine modification.

If you notice, your wear metals are up. Compare yourself to your last 4,000 mile check in. This is probably due to the worse startup properties of your 0w40. I would reconsider your choice of fluid. Especially for someone that lives up north.