This is my latest "mod"....if you want to call it that. One day while changing out oils I noticed this rust on the inside of my bumper after only one winter in the PA mountains (truck is 1.5 years old). So I decided that I should fix it before it was too late. Here is what I did:

1. Dropped out the spare tire for easier access. Plus, it is a great idea to drop it out anyway as the spare tire chains have a tendency to rust and lock up.

2. With the spare tire out of the way I disconnected two harnesses on the drivers side where the bumper bolts to the frame. Also unclipped the additional black box thingy (my guess is that it's a impact sensor). Moved them out of the way to be sure not to damage them.

3. Completely removed the two bolts closest to the rear of the truck and loosened the third one. Note the third bolt is used to get the bumper in about the right place when reinstalling. If you don't have a hitch you will need someone to hold the bumper as you are removing the bolts as there will be nothing to support it once the bolts are gone.

4. With the bumper removed and in the grass, I removed the backup sensors, license plate lights and wiring that goes with them.

5. With the sensors and wiring out of the way the real fun begins, sanding the rust off. I chose to hand sand the rust off using a sanding block and 60 grit sandpaper. This is by far the longest/hardest step of the process but the only way to get in the tight places.

6. After sanding, I washed off the bumper with soap and water.

7. After the bumper was completely dry I applied several coats of undercoating (any brand of undercoating is good). I was careful not to get any in the license plates light holes and I also put some painters tape to protect the outer edges to prevent overspray. Don't be alarmed if you get some where you don't want it. The undercoating can be wiped off until it's dries, but it is still a pain you want to avoid.

8. After I applied the undercoating I waited for a little while I reinstalled everything in the same order that I removed them. I had my father help me put the bumper back in it's place to be sure that I didn't scratch the tailgate up trying to be cool and install it myself. Also, the torque spec on the bolts is 59 ftlbs.

If you have any questions, let me know.

More pictures......

Very good write up. I'm moving this to the DIY section as well.

Looks good great idea, I notice that eveytime I go off-road my bumper is full of mud and it sure is hard to get it out.

Well done Titanse05!

Excellent description of the process.

The undercoating process for me took a few passes of the undercoat spray.

I had my whole truck done when I was back in Michigan and then did my bumper when I came back.

Hope this is a sticky for folks!

Instead of sanding you could use a chemical converter like POR-15 (http://www.por15.com/). The POR-15 still requires a top coat of paint, as it is sensative to sunlight.

POR-15® is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray. POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

I did this to the exhaust manifold on Kristins civic over a year ago and it's held up incredibly well.

Instead of sanding you could use a chemical converter like POR-15 (http://www.por15.com/). The POR-15 still requires a top coat of paint, as it is sensative to sunlight.

POR-15® is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray. POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

I did this to the exhaust manifold on Kristins civic over a year ago and it's held up incredibly well.How expensive is this stuff? Also, where to purchase?

Directly from their website. $26 for a pint. They ship to the lower 48.

I got this (http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/PrimerPaintsCoatings/HiTemperaturePaints/FACTORYMANIFOLDGRAY/tabid/147/Default.aspx) when I did her car for $17. It's the hi temp stuff. Heat and humidity help cure it.

I covered the entire exhaust manifold, plus everything I could see with rust in her engine compartment with about half of a pint. You can mix & spray the stuff too. Check out the link http://www.por15.com/

Great find! I have several projects I am going to use it on. Thanks for letting us know about it!

Thanks for the idea. Even though mine only sees road conditions i will prob. still go ahead and do this before the rust starts. Also, i think the bedliner spray stuff will work too. I know it gets really hard and is very durable. When i do mine i will post back!

Por-15 is a fantastic product that is absolutely worth the money. I have used it on my 71 vw super beetle. Plenty of rust on that thing to soak it up. The only thing is that with very light rust the por 15 doesn't adhere and work as well. Its almost like the more rust the better with por 15. When I saw this post I thought of por 15 before I thought of undercoating. Thats a great idea. Tomorrow I will have to look at my bumper. Thats somthing I should probabbly do. Great Post.

Thanks for the idea. Even though mine only sees road conditions i will prob. still go ahead and do this before the rust starts. Also, i think the bedliner spray stuff will work too. I know it gets really hard and is very durable. When i do mine i will post back!But the spray in liners cost more than $4

I hope people are seeing this.......if you are keeping your truck for the long haul like me than get to work!

Undercoating will pick up all kinds of dirt...and water can get underneath the surface...creating the same problem all over again...then there's the lingering smell.

The spray on bedliner material can be brushed on...dries quickly and can be hosed off. But the same problems associated with undercoating can occur.

There are several marine (ship) coatings that work much better...think steel hull protection. They go on with a thin coat...don't come off, and resist rust. These coatings are also used when water pipes...either concrete, steel or fibreglas are installed in the ground.

Search for cathodic protection online.

Going to take a look at mine this weekend.........good write up! Thanks for the tip!

Undercoating will pick up all kinds of dirt...and water can get underneath the surface...creating the same problem all over again...then there's the lingering smell.

The spray on bedliner material can be brushed on...dries quickly and can be hosed off. But the same problems associated with undercoating can occur.

There are several marine (ship) coatings that work much better...think steel hull protection. They go on with a thin coat...don't come off, and resist rust. These coatings are also used when water pipes...either concrete, steel or fibreglas are installed in the ground.

Search for cathodic protection online.
Regardless of what you put on the bumper, it will collect dirt/rocks/ from anything you drive over. My experiences with undercoating must have been different than yours, it's just like paint when I've used it. The surface must be properly prepped before applying. No lingering smells that you pertain to either. Plus I just washed off piles of Paragon mud from my undercoated bumper and it just washed off.

I will have to see how it holds up in the long term though.......only time will tell.

Good job on the writeup.......way to go on details!!!

Undercoating will pick up all kinds of dirt...and water can get underneath the surface...creating the same problem all over again...then there's the lingering smell.

The spray on bedliner material can be brushed on...dries quickly and can be hosed off. But the same problems associated with undercoating can occur.

There are several marine (ship) coatings that work much better...think steel hull protection. They go on with a thin coat...don't come off, and resist rust. These coatings are also used when water pipes...either concrete, steel or fibreglas are installed in the ground.

Search for cathodic protection online.

Claude,

Undercoating and spray on bedliners when when done correctly would not cause the problems you state.

Failing to clean off the area to be sprayed, failure to adequately coat the surface, solvents etc, can cause rust to appear.

I'll have to do studying on cathodic protection because I thought that involved electrical currents and sacrificial anodes used in large scale metal works...

Isn't there a corrosion warranty to cover this? What does it say something about this in the Nissan Warranty Manual? I'd rather have the dealer paint and body shop do this if it is covered... Just my 2 cents....

What happens when the rust through warranty has passed? You buy a new bumper......this mod is meant to prevent rust from happening in the first place.

In addition, I prefer to go back to the dealer as a last resort.

Just to let everyone know just in case. If you do get the undercoating on a place you don't want it take some Acetone, put it on a papertowel and wipe gently. It will take it off even after it dries. I have even used it on light colored painted objects. It is not like lacquer thinner that will take the paint off. But I would not use it on a dark color.

Instead of sanding you could use a chemical converter like POR-15 (http://www.por15.com/). The POR-15 still requires a top coat of paint, as it is sensative to sunlight.I think that I'm going to give this stuff a try. The brackets to my step rails, the front & rear traction bar brackets, and my bumper need some TLC after this winter.

How far does a pint of this stuff go? Can it be used on non-rusted areas if the surface is clean?

nice write-up... i have a rock chip on my hood that i need to take care of PDQ!

nice write-up... i have a rock chip on my hood that i need to take care of PDQ!The POR-15 is sensitive to UV rays and would need topcoated to resist fading.......if you want to use it on the body that is.

Thanks for letting me know that... I'm sure there are some alternatives to taking care of this.. Again, thank you!

I think that I'm going to give this stuff a try. The brackets to my step rails, the front & rear traction bar brackets, and my bumper need some TLC after this winter.

How far does a pint of this stuff go? Can it be used on non-rusted areas if the surface is clean?

A pint will go pretty far... and I think you can cover non-rusted areas on a clean surface... Just don't forget to top coat.

A pint will go pretty far... and I think you can cover non-rusted areas on a clean surface... Just don't forget to top coat.Even on the underside? If so, with what?

BTW, nice to hear from you Steve!

After I read the article on rust in the bumper, I looked at mine and saw quite a bit of rust. I ended up taking the whole bumper apart to get to all the rust. If anyone tries this be very careful with the backup sensor attachments. One of mine snapped off. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. My bumper should last a lot longer now.

Great fix. Judging how everything else under the truck is rusty,I will be doing this very soon!

Great fix. I will be doing this very soon judging by how rusty everything underneath is my truck. Gotta love these Pa winters!

Thanks for the photos of bumper removal. I backed into a concrete light post and put a dent in the bumper. These pics will help me. No need to remove hitch first.
thanks

LineX works well for rust protection too.......