After going the the Delaware meet, and doing dust donuts, and trail driving , I came home and removed my AEM dry flow to clean it I saw the entire intake tube with a thick layer of dust on the inside. An oiled filter would not have let that much dust in! I was also not happy about the way the air comes through the fender and hits The "Black Wall" of the AEM filter, forcing the air to first flow around the filter, then in. A conical filter for our trucks would be better for the air flow.
And It's got Bling! Pic 1

I also wanted to do the coolant bypass and the $38 TBS install(separate thread, and starting thinking about the Tube soaking up engine and radiator heat, so I got some wrap and decided to wrap the entire tube, plus the heat shield. I have touched the tube after the truck has run, and it gets very warm, so I figured what could it hurt?

Here's what you'll need:

Reflectix Insulation wrap 16" (Lowes)=$18
Insulation Tape(I had)=About $7

Power Adder Cotton Oiled Filter(Pepboys-Advance-Auto)=$34
(Universal fit) Same size as the AEM filter

Start by removing your filter and tube And place them on a clean working surface(my case a large piece of cardboard) Pic 2

Take a razor knife and cut out a piece LARGER than you think you need. roll tube in wrap to get the "memory" of the tube in the wrap, this will help with your cutouts. Then while loosely wrapped you can start cutting out what you want. Every intake is different, so this is your personal judgment. Pic 3 I just kept wrapping, then unwrapping cutting, and checking. The wrap doesn't tear easy, so you shouldn't,t have a problem if you over or under cut.

Once I was pretty satisfied with the general fit, I taped the underside to the tube so I could wrap it tight. You want to do this on part of tube that faces the engine. Pic 4 Then I wrapped the top over. You will have more trimming around the turns to do, either cut triangle(hard) or cut slits and fold(easy!!). Tape up that stuff, then I trimmed about 1 1/2 off the ends of the tube to allow for tape and the gaskets. Pic 5

I then moved to the air box/heat shield. I removed the stripping at the top of the box, and wiped it all down so tape would stick(windex works great) and let dry. I then cut a pieces of wrap and sat it in the box making sure you push it in the corners tight. I folded a bout an inch of wrap in all around the bottom, so I could tape it the bottom of the box easy. I then trimmed the top of the wrap about 1 inch below the top of the box, following the contours, to allow room for tape and stripping without the tape folding over the box to keep the install clean looking. I then cut a "plus sign" in the wrap were the tube comes in. Pic 6

Tape the top and bottom edges tight and replace stripping. Your box should be almost totally enclosed when the hood is down!

Now slide your tube in and make adjustments to slits. I did not tape around the tube to box area, you can if you want.

Install filter and silicone sleeve to TB and tighten. If you are using the Power Adder(very ricer I know!!) and BLING BLING!!! You will need all three gaskets for the AEM tube. Since it's a universal fit it comes with a 4 inch, 3 1/2 inch and 3 inch gasket that lock inside each other. Putting them on is a little hard but I used natures lubricant(spit) and they finally went.

The end result! Pics 1 & 2

Before shot. Pic 3

uhhhhh I didn't catch that you were going to wrap the piping with the heat shield...it kinda looks like a dryer vent on crack. :D Are you sure you don't want to do just the inside of the box???

The filter actually looks a lot better than I anticipated! I like the red :)

looks pretty sweet

uhhhhh I didn't catch that you were going to wrap the piping with the heat shield...it kinda looks like a dryer vent on crack. :D Are you sure you don't want to do just the inside of the box???

The filter actually looks a lot better than I anticipated! I like the red :)

Well with the tube practically sitting on the radiator now cuz of the TBS, what could it hurt? And the AEM tube is aluminium, so it soaks up heat quick.

Just look at the before and afters. See how plain and mass produced the AEM tube looks unwrapped, now it's got character!!! (It was scratched anyway!)

Thanks ARMY!

Ok, ok! I agree that it does have character, actually. Can we name it?

:engel-big:

Sure! What you have in mind?

Oh, bet you would like the red!!(missed that the first time)

That looks great, will you do mine too?!?!

lol...name it! I love it...

Has anyone ever considered ceramic coating the tube? Just curious.

That looks great, will you do mine too?!?!

Texas to Jersey? That's far! Let me see 14mpg x 2000+miles x 2.05 a gallon=no way! LOL!!!

Texas to Jersey? That's far! Let me see 14mpg x 2000+miles x 2.05 a gallon=no way! LOL!!!i think that is the right answer to the equation

That's actually only $293 :p

x2 = a great deal! HAHA not.

$293 , do you know how many barbecue pizzas that would buy me

lol...name it! I love it...

Has anyone ever considered ceramic coating the tube? Just curious.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Lookin good Exploring, keep it cool !!!

Looks great!

ThermoTec makes a wrap for CAI's tubes, comes with different colors of thread to lace it together like tennis shoes. Also a sticky back mat for flat surfaces like the box. I've done my box (and am redoing it now) and used a rubber gasket made for house vent pipes to help seal the tube as it enters the box. Still need to seal edges of my box with sheeting and some black silicone to finish it off. Will silicone all corners of the box. Thermotec cost is substantially higher, about $50-75 for tube wrap IIRC.

Added a 3" inlet for additional cold air from a 2-1/2" tube going down to the frame area. Bought a Spectre flange and silicoe red couplings and chrome plastic elbow. I don't think reflective material on inside of box would be advantageous as source of heat is on outside..Completeness of the fit you acheived is certainly nice though. Love to see Mods get Modded. Nicely done Rob! :)

Thanks. Where did you route the 2" tube to?
I am thinking about a cold air pickup in the fenger, but haven't found the right tubing yet to try. I want like 6" tubing, non corrigated, but flexible.

ThermoTec makes a wrap for CAI's tubes, comes with different colors of thread to lace it together like tennis shoes. Also a sticky back mat for flat surfaces like the box. I've done my box (and am redoing it now) and used a rubber gasket made for house vent pipes to help seal the tube as it enters the box. Still need to seal edges of my box with sheeting and some black silicone to finish it off. Will silicone all corners of the box. Thermotec cost is substantially higher, about $50-75 for tube wrap IIRC.

Added a 3" inlet for additional cold air from a 2-1/2" tube going down to the frame area. Bought a Spectre flange and silicoe red couplings and chrome plastic elbow. I don't think reflective material on inside of box would be advantageous as source of heat is on outside..Completeness of the fit you acheived is certainly nice though. Love to see Mods get Modded. Nicely done Rob! :)

Any more pics?

It just hangs a couple inches above the frame, straight down and forward of the wheel. Does not "go" to anything. Hopefully the pics may show it well enough. I also had a hard time figuring out a tube to use, I ended up with a shop vac tube from Home Depot (as I read soooo many times). Larger 3 inch tube was too tight going past the AC tubing. I plan to drill a large (4-1/2", my largest holesaw) hole into fender well, just under the filter. to get max air flow from fender area and allow whole filter to provide easy path. Some concern of affecting crush zone in an acccident, but minor I think (?).

Have given up thoughts of vents on outside of fender where it would be seen. More airflow is directed into the fenderwell from the front grille than what I had believed. Don't think you'll need 6" tube. I'll then have 2 entry points from fender and 1 from below. All hidden for clean exterior. ThermoTec wrap is ordered at 53 dollars from local speed shop. I really hope to finish this project this coming weekend. Next Charm City Titans meet follows the following Saturday in Baltimore.

When I get it really done, I'll edit my pics and show the bottom of the tube better. It is about 2 inches above the frame.

Gotcha. I saw the volant with cold air pick up, and it looks like the same route as you described. I don't think I'll need to do this, and I agree the fender inlet provides plenty of air, and running a 6" tube between the fender and the wheel well skin, won't do anything.

Heatshield Products also has various types of wrap, tubes, gaskets, etc. Available online and some racing shops. The heat mostly affects idle and low RPM, but then again, that's the "off the line" point, isn't it. The TB intercooler or bypass mods have some test numbers posted in the "The Throttle Body intercooler" thread. Seems to me, insulation would only make these better.

TitanBlue - could you expand on the extra air intakes you put in -- parts, installation for dummies, etc.? I was thinking of doing something like that, but have little experience in mechanical areas. Thus, I had pretty much decided on the Volant V3 with the extra ram intake. But, if I could do the same, would open up the choices.

thx

TOOLS:
Safety Glasses
3/8" Hand Held Drill
1/4" Drill Bit
3-1/4" Diameter Hole Saw with 3/8" Arbor (Just in case - FYI: 3-1/4" means 3 and a quarter inch)
Bandsaw or Hacksaw
Files or Deburring Tools of some sort
7/16" Wrenches and/or Sockets for the 1/4" diameter bolts
(SEE PHOTOS in post #17)


BILL OF MATERIALS: about $57 Total (maybe less)
(from Advanced Auto Parts, Auto Zone, PEP BOYS, etc. Parts made by "SPECTRE". They make a Do It Yourself CAI System aimed at Ricers. It is sold by the piece, so you custom fit a system cheap, almost all plastic and silicone rubber couplings with stainless steel hose clamps)
"SPECTRE" Sensor Flange, Aluminum $15
"SPECTRE" Silicone Coupling, 3" Straight, Red or Blue $10
"SPECTRE" 90 Degree Elbow, Chrome Plastic $5
"SPECTRE" Silicone Coupling, 3"-2-1/2" Reducing, Red or Blue $10
"SHOP VAC" 2-1/2" x 18" Wand Extension, $7 at Home Depot
"Hardware Section" (Qty of 4) 1/4"-20 x 1" long Bolts, Flat Washers, Lock Washers and Nylon Insert Locking Nuts. Stainless Steel Preferred for appearance sake. $10 at Home Depot


INSTRUCTIONS:
!.) Place Flange on inside and determine proper fit/location.
2.) Mark a circle inside of Flange opening with a Magic Marker.
3.) Remove Flange.
4.) Determine Center of Circle and Magic Mark it or Center Punch it.
5.) Drill a 1/4" Pilot Hole at the Center you just determined.
6.) From the Outside-Make hole bigger by using a 3-1/4" Hole Saw.
7.) Place the Flange on the inside temporarily, with the snout pointing out, and mark the 4 mounting holes with Magic Marker.
8.) Drill a total of (4) 1/4" holes.
9.) Drill the (4) existing holes on the Flange, with the 1/4" bit also.
10.) Trim the snout about 1/2" shorter on a bandsaw or with a hacksaw.
11.) Place Flange on inside, with Snout pointing out, and mount with the (4) bolts. Bolt head on outside of box, with a flat washer under the head; Flat washer and Nylon insert Nut on inside. Make tight.
12.) Mount 3" Straight Silicone Coupling to the Snout.
13.) Insert the 3" Chrome Plastic Elbow, into the 3" Coupling.
14.) Mount the 3" to 2-1/2" Reducing Silicone Coupling onto the other end of the Elbow.
15.) Insert the 2-1/2" x 18" long Black Plastic Vacuum Tube into the 2-1/2" opening of the Reducing Coupling. (Aim it down and forward, towards the frame, just about 4-6" behind the Radiater. It barely touches an Air Conditioner line. Doesn't seem to move around at all.)
16.) Tighten all hose clamps on the Silicone Couplings. (Be certain the Shop Vac Tube and Chrome Elbow are far inside the Couplings).

It is really easy, only difficult part is trimming the Flange shorter for better fit. Snout sticks out a bit far for easy fit of Tube going downward. A Gray Plastic Flange is also available from "SPECTRE", with same dimensions IIRC. Be careful when drilling. Use a vise of sorts to safely hold the Flange when you enlarge its holes in step 9.

UPDATE: My next step is to drill a 4-/2" hole under the Filter, directly into the Fender Well. 4-1/2" is simply my largest Hole Saw. This will allow more direct airflow under the filter element.

It is really easy, only difficult part is trimming the Flange shorter for better fit. Snout sticks out a bit far for easy fit of Tube going downward. A Gray Plastic Flange is also available from "SPECTRE", with same dimensions IIRC. Be careful when drilling. Use a vise of sorts to safely hold the Flange when you enlarge its holes in step 9.

UPDATE: My next step is to drill a 4-/2" hole under the Filter, directly into the Fender Well. 4-1/2" is simply my largest Hole Saw. This will allow more direct airflow under the filter element.

Easy? Hmmmmm... For me, a challenge, but doable. I think.

Great description - :awesome: - I think many will try it.

I may have missed it, but I'm not clear how you routed to vacuum cleaner tube - any way to get a pic of where the end sits? Sounds like it is behind the radiator - wouldn't it be sucking hot air there? Is there any way to get it near the grill?

Which raises another question I have in general. What keeps mud and water from getting into these CAI's???:clueless:


Another general question - how do you guys (robexploring) keep your engines so damn clean???

nice job, TitanBlue...

Another general question - how do you guys (robexploring) keep your engines so damn clean???

nice job, TitanBlue...

As long as the mud us fresh, it's easy to clean out the engine bay. Once that crud hardens, you've got a real challenge to get it shiny again.

As long as the mud us fresh, it's easy to clean out the engine bay. Once that crud hardens, you've got a real challenge to get it shiny again.

Yeah, but the "just polished" look. No general dust and stuff. You guys detail it every week??? Love the galaxy black - hate the way it advertises every speck of dirt.

I'm just waiting for a warm day to get the salt and crud from this last storm off...

I'm embarrassed...:eek:

"Another general question - how do you guys (robexploring) keep your engines so damn clean???"

Even though, it says not to, power washer. I work detailing cars now, and we do it to all the cars that we do. Just don't spray directly in one spot too long, make sweeping passes. Everything under your hood is made to withstand water from rain, puddles, and because Titans come w/4x4, even water fording, for a short amount of time, so same principle applies. You can use products like engine degreaser(which I'm not a big fan of, too oily-greasy) or better is Simple Green, or a good citrus cleaner-watered down. For a heavier clean we use Tire cleaner(white wall spray-or Bleach White) which works great, but is not Clear coat safe, so use sparingly and carefully.

"Another general question - how do you guys (robexploring) keep your engines so damn clean???"

Even though, it says not to, power washer. I work detailing cars now, and we do it to all the cars that we do. Just don't spray directly in one spot too long, make sweeping passes. Everything under your hood is made to withstand water from rain, puddles, and because Titans come w/4x4, even water fording, for a short amount of time, so same principle applies. You can use products like engine degreaser(which I'm not a big fan of, too oily-greasy) or better is Simple Green, or a good citrus cleaner-watered down. For a heavier clean we use Tire cleaner(white wall spray-or Bleach White) which works great, but is not Clear coat safe, so use sparingly and carefully.

rob -I was foolish enough to let the dealer put the $600 Simonize protectant on my truck - said it would guarantee the finish for life of truck.

well, it collects film and grime like a magnet, and does not come clean in car washes. (I only use brushless ones). I can always write name in the film even after 2 passes.

I'm not talking about offroad - just running around in the rain and the film is permanent. on my frontier, I had the finish so stuff just rinsed off for the most part. i've never seen anything as bad as this simonize before.

any suggestions for fixing this. never had it so bad before.

Sorry about hijacking this thread - if we get some good answers (if anyone was as dumb as me getting the dealer simonize), perhaps a moderator could move it to a new thread...

frustrated tom -- :angst-big:

A few good coats of wax, buffed or rubbed in really good, will make your finish very smooth. Emphasis on Few(2 or 3) and Buffed(the smoother, the better, less nooks and valleys for dirt to collect). It will keep stuff like bird poo and bugs from etching into your paint. Daily driving grime is unavoidable. But most will come off with just a hosing or powerwashing. Also you dont have to wax every time, every 3 to 6 months will be enough provided you use a good car wash that won't strip your wax. I like the Maguire's products, especially the Scratch X(removes small scratched and swirl marks, the cleaner wax(will clean contaminants off your paint), which I would use as my base coat wax, the 1 or 2 coats of finish wax. And I would do it in that order,: Powerwash, hand car wash, scratch X, cleaner wax, high gloss or finsh wax. I sometimes use Turtle wax color cure(black wax for my truck) which also hides small imnperfections. But bottom line, there is nothing you can put on your vehicle to make dirt not collect on it, if there was, everyone would have it, all you can do is take a few good step it prevent as much build up and damage as possible.

Here is a link to Maquires on line forum. This one is about removing swirls, but the whole site is about paint care, cleaning, waxing and detailing. I'm not trying to push the product, it's not even what we use at work, but I really like them. http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7011