A while back I posted some pictures of a clear cover I made for the Volant CAI. I have made a How To post here:
http://www.clubarmada.com/showthread.php?t=749

A while back I posted some pictures of a clear cover I made for the Volant CAI. I have made a How To post here:
http://www.clubarmada.com/showthread.php?t=749

Good write up! I have an idea how old you are now.

Probably older than you think!

Probably older than you think!

Possibly, but the hands reveal a lot! :lol:

Scr38,
Question for you. I plan on enclosing my AEM intake with plexiglass as well. How do you join the surfaces? Also, will the plexiglass be able to stand the heat?

Sweet man I really have to find some time and do this mod. It looks great.
M4ck

Probably older than you think!

Possibly, but the hands reveal a lot! :lol:

....reveals a lot of helpful experience.

That's a great write up SCR38. I think I might make that one of my weekend projects. I like the way you can see the filter without removing the lid.

Does the inside of the new lid stay clean?

Scr38,
Question for you. I plan on enclosing my AEM intake with plexiglass as well. How do you join the surfaces? Also, will the plexiglass be able to stand the heat?
Yoy can join sections of acrylic using MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone). You have to have a perfect fit to do this. You clamp the pcs. in place and put a small amount of MEK on the joint. It will wick into the joint and make an invisible weld. It reacts only in the joint, excess can be wiped off without marking the acrylic. You can also drill and tap the plastic and use screws to join parts.
Attached is a picture of a air cleaner that I made from acrylic sheet many years ago. (I think it was about 1968) You can heat the acrylic and bend it into the shape you need.

The inside does stay clean. This was a concern to me, but I have driven about 3,000 miles since I installed it and it is still clean.

Scr38,
Question for you. I plan on enclosing my AEM intake with plexiglass as well. How do you join the surfaces? Also, will the plexiglass be able to stand the heat?
Yoy can join sections of acrylic using MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone). You have to have a perfect fit to do this. You clamp the pcs. in place and put a small amount of MEK on the joint. It will wick into the joint and make an invisible weld. It reacts only in the joint, excess can be wiped off without marking the acrylic. You can also drill and tap the plastic and use screws to join parts.
Attached is a picture of a air cleaner that I made from acrylic sheet many years ago. (I think it was about 1968) You can heat the acrylic and bend it into the shape you need.

Wow! Great job! Ahead of your time there, eh! Will a heat gun work for bending the acrylic?

The heat gun will work fine. Just don't overheat, it will make bubbles in the acrylic.

Great 'how to' on the plexi lid, scr38. You should send a pic of the finished product over to Joe at Volant. He'd get a kick out of it. Come to think of it, he might just steal your idea! Thanks for takin' the time and sharing your expertise with all of us 'young' folks....lol!

Can you go into more detail on the flame polish? I assume you are basically "melting" down the micro edges causing the dullness?

And once again, Outstanding work.

Probably older than you think!

Possibly, but the hands reveal a lot! :lol:

Now don't go comparing scr38's hands to Dale's.


:roflmao:

scr38, thank you so much for this write up!!

That's a great writeup! I have one thing to add though. Although the Lexan is much stronger, it is also very, very easy to scratch. You have to use great care with cleaning it and the products you use or it will leave fine surface scratches. :) My dad works in the sign business and get's me pieces of either if I need it. I may try this with a smoked piece. I have done different projects with the two materials in the past also. :D

Can you go into more detail on the flame polish? I assume you are basically "melting" down the micro edges causing the dullness?

And once again, Outstanding work.
Yes, that is a good description of what you are doing. But you have to have a smooth surface before you flame polish; it won't smooth large scratches. When you do the flame polishing you need to hold the plastic so you get light reflection on the edge you are polishing. That way you can see when the surface turns glossy. Use a low flame, stay 2-3 inches away from the edge and keep the flame moving. If you stop you will probably get bubbles in that spot. Heat just enough for the edge to turn glossy, no more. Try it first on some scrap peices, you will quickly get the "feel" of it.