For all of you that are cheap like me and don't want to spend $350.00 on any dash kits. Here's a solution.
I removed all the parts that I wanted to paint, sanded, washed, primed them realy good. I bought this Spray paint at Pep Boys, "Dark Red", and then went to Wall Mart and found this Clear Coat, that is realy good, it's supposed to spray one double coat, kinda hazy.

You have to be very carefull in the process, or you'll have dust, and over-spraying.

1- Find a good clean, closed, warm, and ventilated space.
2- After you sand the pieces, wash them realy good.
3- Aplly 2 good coats of primer (black color).
4- Wait untill it's dry, then apply several "very light" coats of the "DARK RED" spray paint. KEEP THE SPRAY CAN NOB CLEAN AT ALL TIMES WHEN SPRAYING.
5- When you see that it has a "clean plain" look, wait about 30 minutes to dry a little.
6- Apply several "even" coats of the Clear Coat, giving them 15 mins also between. The more you spray, the best it's going to look after 3 -4 days when it hardens, it will keep the pieces from scratching too.
7- Keep the painted pieces from dust for a good 24 hours withouth touching them. Better up to 36 hours, but you won't have patience to wait that long. I didn't. Just make sure when you put them back on your car, keep the pieces from fingerprints.
8- After 1-2 days you can clean the pieces with Windex to shine them, but just note that it will take about a week or so for the clear coat to completely harden.

Ahhhhh dang, you beat me to it! I was gonna do the same thing (different color, but same thing). Looks like it came out really good! I was looking at doing the Rustoleum Metallic in "ruby red" and black, but was going to also accent with the brushed aluminum trim from a dash kit.

Couple of questions:

How hard was it to remove the center section?
Do the steering wheel control covers come off so they can be painted?
Can we get a close up or two of a section?


Looks nice...good job 8)

Oh and welcome to the club :D

You have to take the glove compartment piece out to access the right side of the center unit, take the piece under the steering colum out to access the left side of the center console, and take the piece around the pop-out cup holders out to access the bottom of the center console. The center console is just held by clips around it.
The steering wheel controls are tricky. You have to remove the cover behind the steering wheel and the cover around the colum to access the screws that hold the control units to the steering wheel airbag unit. Now you know why I didn't mess with it, the airbag unit is something you don't want to mess with unless you're willing to pay over 70 bucks to reset. Maybe you don't have to mess with it, but I gave up after realizing that I had to chance messing with it. Besides, you don't want to many things painted.
Also "DO NOT" paint the overhead console, it will look crapy. It's surface is not smooth, so it will not shine well. I painted mine, looked horrible, and had to order a new one for $150.00.

Here are some close views:

I am very impressed. I am always scared to spray paint anything. I have done a few computer cases over the years and didnt like the way they turned out too good. You did an excellent job and this is a heck of a way to make a first couple posts. You are gonna make a great addition here and will fit right in.
M4ck

Close ups look great too! The finish turned out really well.

Just noticed you're from VA Beach. I used to work over at Aarons Rentals on the Blvd after high school (grew up in Suffolk) so I know that area pretty well.

Man, that looks great. And at a fraction of the cost of a new dash kit that is something truly worth considering. Not to mention you posted instructions with the pics. Excellent job, and welcome.

Wow that looks great. Nice work. :D

Question: what type of sanding device did you(govalacb) use? also, is there other ways to remove the paint without sanding? I was thinking pressure washer? :D

I wish I trusted my painting skills enough to attempt that. It looks great.


docopharm,
That Postcard-like pic in your signature looks great...

Question: what type of sanding device did you(govalacb) use? also, is there other ways to remove the paint without sanding? I was thinking pressure washer? :D

I think a pressure washer would rip the plastic apart before the paint.
Never use industrial grade thinner though. I worked for a metalfab company and was the head painter. I painted the dash of my 200sx back in 98 and wasn't happy with the color so i dunked it in the thinner tank and whalla the paint came right off......then the plastic started to get deep crevaces all over the place....what a waste.....leason learned.

That is awesome. I think I want to go with the steel inserts, but if I don't, what do you guys think about doing it in Black????

That is awesome. I think I want to go with the steel inserts, but if I don't, what do you guys think about doing it in Black????

I think the black would look great. I'm thinking of a combo of the brushed aluminum/chrome and black. I just gotta work out what goes where so that it doesn't look tacky :lol:

That's truely impressive :notworthy: :notworthy:

WOW, that looks awesome

Great job!!! How's it holding up? Any problems with the sun?

so yeah, it actualy looked better after it dried, it's a little darker. "Everybody" that sees it thinks it's wood. I think if you're not on spending money on a dash kit, this is a great replacement. This is by far my best work. And it will last longer than the dash kits that in time peels off.

By the way, I only spent about $50.00. Spray paint cans and sand paper.

One more to answer some questions:

Black and chrome would look awesome. Looking at the front of the LE and SEs, use the same concept, paint the sides of the dash plack and the middle part chrome, awesome idea.

I used a very light sand paper, just enough to remove the factory protection, and give the new paint some "grip". It's very important to wash the parts after sanding and painting in a "dust-free" environment, so you won't get dust on the painted parts and leave little "bumps".

If you're serious enough on doing this, let me know and I'll post detailed instructions on getting that almost perfect finish.

That is truly an awesome job man! I really dig that. I did it on my blazer but it didn't come out that good. I learned some things from your post though!

One more to answer some questions:

If you're serious enough on doing this, let me know and I'll post detailed instructions on getting that almost perfect finish.

Yeah, when you get some time, details would be good. I plan on sanding with 220-320 grit, clean with alcohol, apply plastic primer, shoot with multiple coats black, then multiple coats clear gloss. Sound about right?

Don't paint it chrome, it won't look professional, if you want to put chrome on some parts, have those parts professionaly done.

First make sure you have all the materials. Sand paper, primer, spray paint, clear coat, Thinner, a bunch of cloths/rags. Also make sure you do this in a clean inside environment, free of dirt, dust, anything that can be blown into the painted part. Put an umbrella over it after you paint to keep the parts from falling dust.

Step 1 - Buy a very light sand paper, if you have a sander, it will be perfect. Sand all the factory paint out, you will start seeing a different grey when you start getting it off, make sure that new grey is all around the part, try to get into the corners as much as possible.

Step 2 SANDER - Don't need alcohol, just wash the parts with hot soapy water, and with a sponge to get all the dust and residue off. Wait untill it dries completely, it's ok to dry them with paper towels as long as you blow all the paper residue out after.

Step 3 PRIMER - Dark primer for darker colors and lighter primer for lighter colors. If you can somehow hold the pieces while you're painting them would be perfect, because when you move the part, it will keep the paint from running and acumulating in one spot. From a distance of about 1 foot, spray slowly side to side, top to bottom. It's ok not to cover every spot on the first and second coat. Wait about 5-10 minutes for the primer to dry to apply other coats. After about 4 coats you should be good. Wait 15 minutes for it to dry.
While you're apllying the coats, it's important to maintain the spray nob clean so it won't shoot dry paint. Also when it's drying between coats, blow out all the dust that acumulates, before moving to the next coat.

Step 4 PAINT - This part is very sensitive, one mistake and it's all over. Make sure there are no dust or bumps before you spray, it's easier to sand primer than paint. Using the same method as the primer, aplly a very light coat, the wait minutes are longer, give about 10 - 15 minutes between coats, depending on the paint. The second and maybe third should be light also. NEVER concentrate in one section, if you have to, it has to be in bursts.
Black shouldn't require too many coats, maybe 5 or 6.
Also keep the nob clean at all times. If you get a drip, quickly spray over it with bursts, it will fade while is wet. If you get a running section, blow against the "wave" for a little to get that amount spread.

Step 5 CLEAR COAT- This is easy, don't wait untill the part is completely dry from the paint, after 10 -15 minutes of the last paint coat, start applying the clear coat. Clear coat can be applied using heavier coats at a time. Give about 5 - 10 minutes between coats. If you start getting "white fades", don't worry, it will go away after it dries, it's caused by the spray dust. The more coats you apply, the better it will look and feel after it dries. You will need 24 hours before you can put this parts back in your car, even that you have to be very careful not to press to hard on the paint or you'll leave finger prints everywhere. I suggest you leave it drying for a good 24 hours.

Remember, you won't be successful if you don't find a clean, well ventilated, and closed space to paint. If you look at a professional paint shop, they are closed and clean.

Don't paint it chrome, it won't look professional, if you want to put chrome on some parts, have those parts professionaly done.

First make sure you have all the materials. Sand paper, primer, spray paint, clear coat, Thinner, a bunch of cloths/rags. Also make sure you do this in a clean inside environment, free of dirt, dust, anything that can be blown into the painted part. Put an umbrella over it after you paint to keep the parts from falling dust.

Step 1 - Buy a very light sand paper, if you have a sander, it will be perfect. Sand all the factory paint out, you will start seeing a different grey when you start getting it off, make sure that new grey is all around the part, try to get into the corners as much as possible.

Step 2 SANDER - Don't need alcohol, just wash the parts with hot soapy water, and with a sponge to get all the dust and residue off. Wait untill it dries completely, it's ok to dry them with paper towels as long as you blow all the paper residue out after.

Step 3 PRIMER - Dark primer for darker colors and lighter primer for lighter colors. If you can somehow hold the pieces while you're painting them would be perfect, because when you move the part, it will keep the paint from running and acumulating in one spot. From a distance of about 1 foot, spray slowly side to side, top to bottom. It's ok not to cover every spot on the first and second coat. Wait about 5-10 minutes for the primer to dry to apply other coats. After about 4 coats you should be good. Wait 15 minutes for it to dry.
While you're apllying the coats, it's important to maintain the spray nob clean so it won't shoot dry paint. Also when it's drying between coats, blow out all the dust that acumulates, before moving to the next coat.

Step 4 PAINT - This part is very sensitive, one mistake and it's all over. Make sure there are no dust or bumps before you spray, it's easier to sand primer than paint. Using the same method as the primer, aplly a very light coat, the wait minutes are longer, give about 10 - 15 minutes between coats, depending on the paint. The second and maybe third should be light also. NEVER concentrate in one section, if you have to, it has to be in bursts.
Black shouldn't require too many coats, maybe 5 or 6.
Also keep the nob clean at all times. If you get a drip, quickly spray over it with bursts, it will fade while is wet. If you get a running section, blow against the "wave" for a little to get that amount spread.

Step 5 CLEAR COAT- This is easy, don't wait untill the part is completely dry from the paint, after 10 -15 minutes of the last paint coat, start applying the clear coat. Clear coat can be applied using heavier coats at a time. Give about 5 - 10 minutes between coats. If you start getting "white fades", don't worry, it will go away after it dries, it's caused by the spray dust. The more coats you apply, the better it will look and feel after it dries. You will need 24 hours before you can put this parts back in your car, even that you have to be very careful not to press to hard on the paint or you'll leave finger prints everywhere. I suggest you leave it drying for a good 24 hours.

Remember, you won't be successful if you don't find a clean, well ventilated, and closed space to paint. If you look at a professional paint shop, they are closed and clean.

Cool, thanks! Oh, and don't worry...I'm ordering the chrome pieces from a dash kit :wink: Chrome paint always looks crappy IMO.

Question: what type of sanding device did you(govalacb) use? also, is there other ways to remove the paint without sanding? I was thinking pressure washer? :D

It's been my experience when painting numerous race cars, that you only need 600 or 300 grit sandpaper. Some stores call it Emery Paper. It's a VERY FINE grit..You only want to "rough" up the surface slightly to give the primer and paint something to stick to. You're not worried about removing anything and don't need to completely "white out" the whole piece. Just scuff up the surface.

wow very impressive 8O

Looks pretty good. I'll have to look at mine and think about a color that I think may look ok.