I came across this info a couple of months ago while cruising the 350Z section of the Technosquare site. With the exception of the ecu reset procedure, all the other procedures are available in the Titan service manual. The ecu reset procedure in invaluabe, as it allows almost instant reset of the ecu's RAM instead of the usual method of disconnecting the battery and guessing as to how long you must leave it disconnected.

I think it's important to do this procedure periodically, as it basically recalibrates the electro-mechanical positioners, namely the throttle valve positioner and the accelerator pedal positioners. After some use, these things get a little out of whack, and get kinda lost. This can cause problems like loss of power and idle issues. This method restores the proper min/max position voltages that the ecu sees from them.

I, personally, have seen the best improvement in my engine by doing the full procedure, starting with the ecu reset, followed by the other procedures. In fact, after doing this, I got back some of my low end grunt I'd lost over the past months. I can actually catch a bit of rubber now, which I haven't been able to do for a long time! It also cured a slightly erratic idle problem I was having.

Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple of tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here!

From Technosquare website:

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

ECU Resetting Procedures

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thounsand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

Hmmm . . . How many feet of rubber are we talking here? :nervous:

How many horsepower on the dyno can I expect from this little procedure? :)

Good stuff, I'll give it a try.

This obviously won't gain you anything, just recoup what you may have lost during many miles of operation. In my situation, I tried just the positioner relearning procedures a while back to see if it would cure the idle problem I mentioned....and it did. It didn't seem to change the performance much, if any. However when I came across the ecu reset procedure which recommended doing the reset, followed by all the other relearning procedures, the notice in low end power was very noticable. I don't fully understand why, because I've done the reset several times before using the battery disconn method after doing mods and never noticed an immediate improvement, which was expected as the ecu needs time to relearn the increased airflow seen. So why wiping the ecu memory clean and then doing the positioner relearning procedures netted me more low end torque, is a mystery to me.

This is how Technosquare does it, and they do know a little more about this ecu stuff than me, that's for sure! Like I mentioned, I think it's a good thing to do periodically, regardless of whether or not you see any performance gains from it. It can be a pain to get the timing down on it (esp the ecu reset and idle air learning) , but it's not too bad once you do it a few times.

This obviously won't gain you anything, just recoup what you may have lost during many miles of operation. In my situation, I tried just the positioner relearning procedures a while back to see if it would cure the idle problem I mentioned....and it did. It didn't seem to change the performance much, if any. However when I came across the ecu reset procedure which recommended doing the reset, followed by all the other relearning procedures, the notice in low end power was very noticable. I don't fully understand why, because I've done the reset several times before using the battery disconn method after doing mods and never noticed an immediate improvement, which was expected as the ecu needs time to relearn the increased airflow seen. So why wiping the ecu memory clean and then doing the positioner relearning procedures netted me more low end torque, is a mystery to me.

This is how Technosquare does it for the Z, and they do know a little more about this ecu stuff than me, that's for sure! Like I mentioned, I think it's a good thing to do periodically, regardless of whether or not you see any performance gains from it. It can be a pain to get the timing down on it (esp the ecu reset and idle air learning) , but it's not too bad once you do it a few times.

Oopsy...I have no idea how I replied to my own post!

would disconnecting the battery for a certain amout of time do the same as these proceedures?

Hey Rkymtn (or anybody else)...I've been waiting to ask this, and pretty much know the answer, but I am about to install my Gibson system...should I do this after the install to reset, or just unhook the battery?

Thanks.

Any possibility of making this a "Sticky"?

Thanks for the info. I am replying to this so I know where to find it when I need it.

:informative:

Thanks Rock! I saw this tread when you posted it...but it has taken me this long to find the spare few moments to go outside and do this. With all of the hot stop and go driving, I could really feel the truck bog down. So, I went outside with my Casio watch, and got it all right the FIRST time!!! I took it out for a ride and VOILA...brand new truck!!! It was like the day I brought her home...but better (the mods). Thanks again!

would disconnecting the battery for a certain amout of time do the same as these proceedures?

No, that is from days gone by!

yea, i figured, i didnt this new-er trick lastnight, took a few tries to get the timing down

Thanks Rock! I saw this tread when you posted it...but it has taken me this long to find the spare few moments to go outside and do this. With all of the hot stop and go driving, I could really feel the truck bog down. So, I went outside with my Casio watch, and got it all right the FIRST time!!! I took it out for a ride and VOILA...brand new truck!!! It was like the day I brought her home...but better (the mods). Thanks again!

That's exactly how I felt after doing this the first time.....restored my low-end grunt back to the day I bought her....and then some.

It was good for .09 sec at the track on my second run a couple weeks ago. This was after my ecm had been "learning" my slower, routine driving habits for only a week, approx. The next week at the track I ran identical times on runs 1 & 2...again, this was after doing a reset after run 1. I think there was no improvement this time because I had just done a reset a day or two prior to going to the track that week. Now, I find myself resetting quite often...maybe once a week or so.

Timing is tricky...sometimes I hit it the first time, other times it takes a few tries. Even did it the other night just counting in my head, one-one thousand, two...and so on, though I don't recommend this method, as you'll have better success with a stopwatch.

Now that you got it down...maybe at your Titan meet coming up, you can give a little "how to" clinic to others who might be struggling a bit with the reset ..whadda ya think?! :D

Hey I finally got around to trying this what a difference. It set my truck back to the way it was when I got it 23,000 mile ago and man it now feels like brand new again except for the brakes.

Thanks for the tip. I go in for the real brake fix tomorrow so maybe it really will feel like the day I took her home.

Take care,
Chuck :D

Thanks for the info RockyMtn! I did the ECU reset and it made a world of difference. The 35's chirp a lot easier and the truck just accelerates harder and more smoother. Got the Volant and Banks installed.
On a side note, I have the '05 and when I was running through the procedures, during step '5', the CEL quit blinking and went solid. I still did the rest of the procedures as you stated. It seemed to work still, which is great. Maybe a different firmware in the ECU I have????
Anyways, thanks!
-RR

Thanks for the info RockyMtn! I did the ECU reset and it made a world of difference. The 35's chirp a lot easier and the truck just accelerates harder and more smoother. Got the Volant and Banks installed.
On a side note, I have the '05 and when I was running through the procedures, during step '5', the CEL quit blinking and went solid. I still did the rest of the procedures as you stated. It seemed to work still, which is great. Maybe a different firmware in the ECU I have????
Anyways, thanks!
-RR

Right on....nothing like free HP, huh?! :D

Would the CEL light be the same as the "Service Engine Soon" light? I've checked the manual and cannot locate a CEL light for the 05 SE 4x4.

Would the CEL light be the same as the "Service Engine Soon" light? I've checked the manual and cannot locate a CEL light for the 05 SE 4x4.

Yes sir. Also known as a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp)

Cool. I tried this procedure over the weekend and could not get the light to blink...guess its time I break out the handy dandy timex :lol:

Thanks again.

I did the ECU reset and drove for a couple of days. .

There's nothing like FREE HP - Good look'n out RockyMtn ! !

:goodjob:

Well i was installing my HIDS and i had to move the windshield wiper resivoir tank and removed the stock intake box and as soon as i was done installing the hids and put everything back together SES light was on so i tried ecu reset procedure and SES light came back on.

Did you unplug or remove the MAF sensor?

yes i unpluged the MAF, and i kept on trying to do the ecu reset procedure and the light still came on, or maybe im just doing it wrong. Or it a hard set code? But even on step three the light blinks. so i dont know what im doing wrong. help!!

Hey rocky it worked like a charm I did everything and what a differnce. I kept expecting to see a secret hand shake in the instuctions though.lol.
Nice work!

I will have to try this and see if it works.

Thanks for this procedure. I tried it on my 05 Frontier and butt dyno says it worked (no harm in trying). Sharing this topic with my peeps at the CLUB FRONTIER forum....thanks to all!

sorry to bring this old topic up, but i have a 2006 and i tried the ecu reset method plenty of times yesterday and nothing happend...

It took me about 10 to 15 times to get it the first time. No flashing lights or nothin. I would count it out with your mouth and say screw the watch. Thats what i did.

Umm.......this sounds dumb but, what pedal are we talking about? Accelerator or brake pedal?

Umm.......this sounds dumb but, what pedal are we talking about? Accelerator or brake pedal?

Accelerator :wink:

thanks!

Installed the Banks last weekend and a few days ago got the SES Light. I did the ECU Reset and everything seems to be working like normal. :)

This question is to all of you that did this and saw improvements on the butt dyno. Did you do all 4 procedures listed or did you just do the ECU reset procedure?

Thanks,
Daniel

Ok I did the ECU reset just fine I think.....the SES light flashed then flashed faster as I got to the end of the procedure so I assume I did that ok. When I was doing the other 2 procedures where you just turn the key on and off nothing happened, I didn't here any noise within that 10 seconds......what am I doing wrong??? I haven't tried the last one since it says to do these ones first.

I came across this info a couple of months ago while cruising the 350Z section of the Technosquare site. With the exception of the ecu reset procedure, all the other procedures are available in the Titan service manual. The ecu reset procedure in invaluabe, as it allows almost instant reset of the ecu's RAM instead of the usual method of disconnecting the battery and guessing as to how long you must leave it disconnected.

I think it's important to do this procedure periodically, as it basically recalibrates the electro-mechanical positioners, namely the throttle valve positioner and the accelerator pedal positioners. After some use, these things get a little out of whack, and get kinda lost. This can cause problems like loss of power and idle issues. This method restores the proper min/max position voltages that the ecu sees from them.

I, personally, have seen the best improvement in my engine by doing the full procedure, starting with the ecu reset, followed by the other procedures. In fact, after doing this, I got back some of my low end grunt I'd lost over the past months. I can actually catch a bit of rubber now, which I haven't been able to do for a long time! It also cured a slightly erratic idle problem I was having.

Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple of tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here!

From Technosquare website:

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

ECU Resetting Procedures

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thounsand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

Does every one of these procedures have to be done to reset the ECU or can an ECU reset be accomplished by using any single procedure separately?

....
ECU Resetting Procedures

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thounsand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

Does every one of these procedures have to be done to reset the ECU or can an ECU reset be accomplished by using any single procedure separately?

I had the Nismo CAI installed the day I bought the truck. I had noticed that with the CAI the truck felt sluggish so I did the ECU reset only. After 4 tries I finally got the counting down. Ater the reset I noticed an immediate difference in the throttle response. The torquey pep is back.

I drove it on the highway or about 10 miles so the ECU could optimize its tables to the CAI. I think I will reset once a month from now on so that the computer doesn't get lazy again.

do i have to do all 4 procedures or i can just do the ecu reset alone?

You can do the ECU alone.

alright.. cool. thanks!

Ok, I am one of many that has tried this and cant get the light to blink, when it says turn ignition to on I am assuming not to start the truck?

i did the reset but when i got to the last 2 steps the light kept on blinking and i turned the switch off is that part of the process??

I did the reset, must have made a mistake, gas mileage dropped. Re-did the reset, full procedure but have not gone far enough to learn if MPG changed since 1st ECU re-set.

I think I it to work the first time, just couting in my head. I haven't driven it yet, but I got the SES to blink and then to go off.

I have tried this procedure several times and the SES light never blinks using the method and timing you recommend. Have noticed an increase on low end after resetting the accelerator pedal travel.

I have tried this procedure several times and the SES light never blinks using the method and timing you recommend. Have noticed an increase on low end after resetting the accelerator pedal travel.
Try starting out in the "ACC" position, turn key to "ON" without starting your engine. Start your 3 sec. count and the rest of the procedure. This work for me.

Tried this procedure again this morning and cannot get the SES light blinking at all. It stalys on constant no matter how many times I do this procedure.

My SES Light does not blink on step 4 of the ECU rest.
Nor does my CEL blink during the Idle Air Volume Learning..




I came across this info a couple of months ago while cruising the 350Z section of the Technosquare site. With the exception of the ecu reset procedure, all the other procedures are available in the Titan service manual. The ecu reset procedure in invaluabe, as it allows almost instant reset of the ecu's RAM instead of the usual method of disconnecting the battery and guessing as to how long you must leave it disconnected.

I think it's important to do this procedure periodically, as it basically recalibrates the electro-mechanical positioners, namely the throttle valve positioner and the accelerator pedal positioners. After some use, these things get a little out of whack, and get kinda lost. This can cause problems like loss of power and idle issues. This method restores the proper min/max position voltages that the ecu sees from them.

I, personally, have seen the best improvement in my engine by doing the full procedure, starting with the ecu reset, followed by the other procedures. In fact, after doing this, I got back some of my low end grunt I'd lost over the past months. I can actually catch a bit of rubber now, which I haven't been able to do for a long time! It also cured a slightly erratic idle problem I was having.

Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple of tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here!

From Technosquare website:

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

ECU Resetting Procedures

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thounsand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

I found the easiest way to do this is to disconnect the battery for ten minutes and reconnect it. This beats rubbing your stomach and head at the same while counting one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc. Ha!

I found the easiest way to do this is to disconnect the battery for ten minutes and reconnect it. This beats rubbing your stomach and head at the same while counting one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc. Ha!

..i thought i read that pulling the cable off the battery doesn't do the same thing as the resets..

It doesn't

omg!!!!!

My SES Light does not blink on step 4 of the ECU rest.
Nor does my CEL blink during the Idle Air Volume Learning..




I came across this info a couple of months ago while cruising the 350Z section of the Technosquare site. With the exception of the ecu reset procedure, all the other procedures are available in the Titan service manual. The ecu reset procedure in invaluabe, as it allows almost instant reset of the ecu's RAM instead of the usual method of disconnecting the battery and guessing as to how long you must leave it disconnected.

I think it's important to do this procedure periodically, as it basically recalibrates the electro-mechanical positioners, namely the throttle valve positioner and the accelerator pedal positioners. After some use, these things get a little out of whack, and get kinda lost. This can cause problems like loss of power and idle issues. This method restores the proper min/max position voltages that the ecu sees from them.

I, personally, have seen the best improvement in my engine by doing the full procedure, starting with the ecu reset, followed by the other procedures. In fact, after doing this, I got back some of my low end grunt I'd lost over the past months. I can actually catch a bit of rubber now, which I haven't been able to do for a long time! It also cured a slightly erratic idle problem I was having.

Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple of tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here!

From Technosquare website:

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

ECU Resetting Procedures

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thounsand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.


Peacekeeper:

Keep trying this mod until the light blinks. I was an unbeliever and on the 9th try I finally got it. I wasn't stepping and letting up on the pedal fast enough!

:roll: Ok, maybe I missed this but on step 3 should you count 10 then depress the peddle or depress at the same time? I have tried pressing 5 times fast and then holding it down while counting 10 and pressing 5 times then releasing and counting to 10. Nothing seems to work.
I will try going faster on step 2, counting 10 than depressing for the 12 count in step 4 next. any input would be welcome.

:roll: Ok, maybe I missed this but on step 3 should you count 10 then depress the peddle or depress at the same time? I have tried pressing 5 times fast and then holding it down while counting 10 and pressing 5 times then releasing and counting to 10. Nothing seems to work.
I will try going faster on step 2, counting 10 than depressing for the 12 count in step 4 next. any input would be welcome.

You were right. It just took doing it repeatedly.

I am about to order an Eco3, after installing an Eco#3, is it madatory to do an ECU reset, or just recommended?

thnx

bump

I am about to order an Eco3, after installing an Eco#3, is it madatory to do an ECU reset, or just recommended?

thnx
Many people say you should reset, many say don't reset. I am one who says don't reset. IMO the ECM will learn quicker if it doesn't have to relearn everything.

Hello Everyone,
I have always been a reader of Clubtitan.org but not necessarly a poster. I have a 2006 Nissan Armada LE 4x4. Let me start off by saying I am not a 'car person'. I work for the power company - so vehicles is not my thing. :-)

My Armada has 11,000 miles and the truck was purchases 3 months ago with only 5 miles on it. It has performed about the same since I purchased the truck.
I had the battery disconnected for a few hours last month when I had a temporary chair lift installed on the truck for a trip I had to take with my mother-in-law. I never seen much of a change after the battery was reconnected.

Today, I ran across this ECU reset post. I said, "What they heck." ... I'll give it a shot." I performed the first 3 procedures and then ran the truck around the neighborhood for a while to warm it up before performing the last procedure (Air Intake).
The truck was much quicker on the start but the upper speeds was not as responsive. When I got home I performed the last procedure (Air Intake). I had to do it a few times but I got it. I took the truck back out around the block and let me tell you, "WOW!" It is faster on the start and it throws me back in the seat if I punch it at 45-50. The truck always had a weak-spot between 30Mph and 45Mph but that is not 100% gone.

Like I said, I don't know if its better to reset or not. I don't know if its better to pull the battery or not. (BUT) let me tell you on my Armada this did WONDERS.

I always averaged 13MPG - 14.2MPG [mixed]. I will drive a few days and post results.

Thank you club Titan.

Tim

I only hve about 1300 miles but I have added duals and flowmasters. I thnk it runs gr8. should I wait till I get the CAI and then try it. Can you do it too often?

Rocky,

did you do this relearning after install of TBS? I recently install airaid TBS and felt a slight difference on the throttle. ( felt sticky) would this help correct that issue. or Am I the only one who had this issue?

Sweet mannmio;ujhiulhno

Will resetting the ECU have any effect on the 2* timming advance?

Will resetting the ECU have any effect on the 2* timming advance?
Don't reset your ECU unless you have to clear a code, resetting it will wipe out all other parameter it has been saving. You will see drastic decrease in milage. If you feel your truck a little sluggish, do a couple or three WOT runs.:D

Thanks bsaeballfanz. Don't want to lose that throttle response. I have to take my truck in next week for an 02 sensor replacement. Will I need them to reset the timming advance once they clear the code or can they do it without hurting the timming?

Okay, So I came across this thread this morning (while at work). Did it this evening (afterwork). BEST thing I've done since I put in my intake. I noticed that it wasn't running like I thought it should after putting in the intake and I thought I just lost some low-end without an exhaust. Boy was I wrong. It rides like it just bought it. I'm going to make a habit and do this every time I change the oil.

I have had my truck for 6 months and have 8000 miles on it, no SES light or mods to the truck yet.
I have a volant CAI and SS exhaust going on next week, so can I do the precedures now or should I just wait and do it after the mods? Is there any harm in doing it now as well as next week after the mods?

You should not do it at all. I proved using a G-Tech SS that your trucks learned Fuel Trims work better then teh stock fuel trims. I lost several tenths in the 1/4 mile when I cleared the codes.

Your truck will learn the mods just fine on it's own.

good to know! Thanks!

I guess all the nissans have a way with this procedure. My specV was very very similar to the first procedure and it would blink off all your codes too.

Don't reset your ECU unless you have to clear a code, resetting it will wipe out all other parameter it has been saving. You will see drastic decrease in milage. If you feel your truck a little sluggish, do a couple or three WOT runs.:D
Wait.... i thought if you did ALL of the procedures ur truck would get back its low end. are you guys NEVER doing the ECU reset and just doing the other learning procedures unless u have to clear a code? OK, i have No codes showing, should i do the resets and NOT the ECU? im a little confused, cause earlier in the post's it said to do them all freaquently for best performance

Wait.... i thought if you did ALL of the procedures ur truck would get back its low end. are you guys NEVER doing the ECU reset and just doing the other learning procedures unless u have to clear a code? OK, i have No codes showing, should i do the resets and NOT the ECU? im a little confused, cause earlier in the post's it said to do them all freaquently for best performance

shailey never does a reset - that's all I need to know...

shailey never does a reset - that's all I need to know...
works for me thnx!

good info thanks.

sounds good

will this procedure clear the 2* timing advance?

sorry I just saw where someone else ask the same question. NEVERMIND!

shailey never does a reset - that's all I need to know...

If Shailey never does it...that's all I need to know! Thanks!

:udaman:

so the ecu reset DOES clear the 2 degree timing advance?

You got my attention!
I'm subscribing to this thread...