Hey guys I have a question..after you install the intake kit is it necessary to spray the filter at that time or is this something you do later when it gets dirty?

The filter is ready to go as it comes. Not necessary to to reoil until it is cleaned.

Hey guys I have a question..after you install the intake kit is it necessary to spray the filter at that time or is this something you do later when it gets dirty?

To the best of my knowledge rd they all come pre-oiled. I've never heard of anyone not providing them that way. As an added note, the Volant seems to dry out pretty quick, so if you decide to go with that one make sure to buy a cleaning/oiling kit with it.

Hey JT, how soon do they dry out? I just installed mine and hope that it would at least last 2 mos.

Also, I screwed in the 2 additional screws just like you did on your Volant and it looks like I could use 2 more at the top and bottom. HMMMM.

Hey JT, how soon do they dry out? I just installed mine and hope that it would at least last 2 mos.

Also, I screwed in the 2 additional screws just like you did on your Volant and it looks like I could use 2 more at the top and bottom. HMMMM.

I don't exactly remember how soon but I do know it didn't take long. Get a kit ASAP...

Okay, I'm confused. How does oil "dry out"? Does Volant build their own filter? After several years of using K&N filters, I've never had one dry out and I've gone as long as 30K miles between cleanings.

Okay, I'm confused. How does oil "dry out"? Does Volant build their own filter? After several years of using K&N filters, I've never had one dry out and I've gone as long as 30K miles between cleanings.

The oil that the Volant uses is thinner then the K&N oil so it tends to dry out faster.

After re-oiling and driving a few hundred miles, it might be a good idea to just check the MAF sensor to be sure you have not over-oiled the filter.

I wouldn't youch it fro about 40K just like my old Z these stay ptrtty clean unless you are runnign booney piles and sand dunes

Understood, JT. I just found your comment about oil drying out to be unusual. Hadn't heard that one before. Have you tried oiling your Volant with the K&N oil to see if that solves the problem?

Some have used the K&N oil on the Volant, but I wouldn't do it, personally. Like JT said, the Volant oil is thinner than the K&N, thus requiring more frequent cleaning/oiling, but it's worth it, to me. The K&N (on FIPK series, not drop-in filter) has had more of a history of causing MAF failures, although I don't think there's a problem with any of these type setups as long as you periodiocally clean the MAF sensor. I just clean the MAF every oil change (crankcase). It only takes a couple of minutes to do.....better than replacing the sensor at $500.

Some have used the K&N oil on the Volant, but I wouldn't do it, personally. Like JT said, the Volant oil is thinner than the K&N, thus requiring more frequent cleaning/oiling, but it's worth it, to me. The K&N (on FIPK series, not drop-in filter) has had more of a history of causing MAF failures, although I don't think there's a problem with any of these type setups as long as you periodiocally clean the MAF sensor. I just clean the MAF every oil change (crankcase). It only takes a couple of minutes to do.....better than replacing the sensor at $500.How are you cleaning the MAF sensor?

I let the sensor cool first, as it goes through a "burn-off" cycle after engine shut down, so the sensor temp gets up over 1000 deg, or higher. I'd bet that during this cycle is when most MAF's fry if they are oil-coated by a performance filter.

I remove the MAF carefully and give it a couple of quick blasts directed at the small hot-wire sensor with an electrical contact cleaner, like CRC. This stuff flashes off quickly, so no worries of leaving any residue. I believe the IAT sensor is located in the same assembly, so you're actually cleaning both. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong about the IAT sensor location.....you can see two sensors, one of which looks like a thermistor, which is used frequently for temp sensors, so there is some assumption there on my part.

Reinstall MAF, plug in harness connector, of course (been there, dun that).
No need to wait before driving. The whole process takes less than 5 minutes.

Rocky Mount, when you say that the K&N's have more of a history of fouling the MAF, do you mean that it's a documented product flaw or that maybe folks just get generous with the oil when cleaning and re-oiling? Not to be biased one way or the other, but I have used K&N products for several years without a problem. If one follows their cleaning and oiling directions, it's pretty hard to mess it up. I'm just curious if you can point out any documentation to back up your statement, because I'd like to read it. Not being confrontational about this, bro. I just like to have as much info as possible.

Rocky Mount, when you say that the K&N's have more of a history of fouling the MAF, do you mean that it's a documented product flaw or that maybe folks just get generous with the oil when cleaning and re-oiling? Not to be biased one way or the other, but I have used K&N products for several years without a problem. If one follows their cleaning and oiling directions, it's pretty hard to mess it up. I'm just curious if you can point out any documentation to back up your statement, because I'd like to read it. Not being confrontational about this, bro. I just like to have as much info as possible.

I just remember seeing posts about this mostly over at TT when I first became a member there last Oct, concerning the K&N (the FIPK, not the drop-in). There were a few people that fried their MAF's, and dealer wouldn't cover because of the K&N's. Also my dealer told me at my first visit that the FIPK's had caused a couple of MAF failures, and recommended that I not consider putting one on. I've also used K&N products, both panel filters and FIPK, as well as the Volant CAI and Air Hog panel filter, with no issues even after re-oiling, but I've always been anal about cleaning the MAF.

I think you're right about over-oiling causing the problems, although the fact that the K&N oil is heavier wouldn't help matters none. I think maybe the thinner Volant oil is easier to burn off than the K&N oil in the event the MAF does get slightly coated.

Good enough. I thought maybe you had read some tech articles somewhere about the K&N's. Thanks for the feedback.