FYI for all for the NC piedmont guys - Vann York Nissan (High Point Nissan) - has the Nissan-Matic J tranny fluid for $9.98 per qt. From what I've seen/read - that's a pretty good deal.

I'm told it takes about 5-6 qts (I'm buying 7 to be sure I have enough) to do a tranny drain and refill. If you do your own maintnenance, this is a lot cheaper than having the dealer do it (they don't flush because they don't have a "J" only machine) for over $100. Plus, I'm going to pull the pan off and clean it out as well - just as an extra measure to get all of the gunk out.

No one ever takes as good of care of your truck as you do yourself.

Thanks for the info next time I'm up that way...I will have to stop in.

That's the avg. price. at least that's waht I pay for mine here in Houston. To do a drain and fill I doubt you will need 7qts but it's good to have more than less.:D Last drain and fill I only needed 4.5qts.

Thanks Golfnut. I haven't priced it yet but will have to do it soon as I have 28k on it now. I have been towing for the last 4k miles or so now and also want to convert my diff cover to a finned one at the time that I change diff fluid. Why do people run the 75w-140? In their diffs anyway! What exactly do you gain?:kampfsport-big: Grasshopper is ready to learn.

TWhy do people run the 75w-140? In their diffs anyway! What exactly do you gain?:kampfsport-big: Grasshopper is ready to learn.
Starting in 05 Nissan switch from dino to synthetic 75W-140 and also changed the cover to a finned cover to help combat the growing problem of the rear diff. overheating and going out.

75w-140 is a little thicker oil than the 75w-90. Typically (though not always the case) - the thicker the lubricant, the higher the "film strength".

Run a high grade synthetic 75w-140 in your rear diff. Look for Mobil 1, or Amsoil, redline, royal purple, Valvoline full synthetic.

Thanks for the info. Its either Royal P for me or Amsoil. I got a guy at work that swears by Amsoil. I Have always been a Castrol man but .....

Film strength is a measure of how well the lubricant can stand up to pressure - kinda. Imagine you could pinch your forefinger and thumb together with about 200 psi of pressure. If you put a 5w30 oil in between, that wouldn't be "strong" enough to withstand the pressure and still lubricate properly, but a "thicker" oil could. The gears, cams, etc.. inside mechanical workings act like your finger & thumb - effectively "pinching" the oil into a thin film in-between machined surfaces (ie: the teeth on your pinion gear and ring gear in the rear differential) - the "heavier" the oil - the better it can withstand the "abuse" and still lubricate and cool those surfaces effectively.

That being said, for any given weight of oil......synthetic is better than conventional (dino) oil as it has been designed specifically for those purposes - whereas conventional oil must be refined ( ie: separated in multiple stages from a crude oil base & have certain additives added in order to perform the same task) to do the same job.

Over time & wear - all oil will break down and lose it lubricating properties. Conventional oil just does it quicker.

This is just a quick explaination - there is much more detail than I have provided (or even know), but you get the general idea.

confused yet?

That's a reasonable price. I get them up here for about the same price.

Film strength is a measure of how well the lubricant can stand up to pressure - kinda. Imagine you could pinch your forefinger and thumb together with about 200 psi of pressure. If you put a 5w30 oil in between, that wouldn't be "strong" enough to withstand the pressure and still lubricate properly, but a "thicker" oil could. The gears, cams, etc.. inside mechanical workings act like your finger & thumb - effectively "pinching" the oil into a thin film in-between machined surfaces (ie: the teeth on your pinion gear and ring gear in the rear differential) - the "heavier" the oil - the better it can withstand the "abuse" and still lubricate and cool those surfaces effectively.

That being said, for any given weight of oil......synthetic is better than conventional (dino) oil as it has been designed specifically for those purposes - whereas conventional oil must be refined ( ie: separated in multiple stages from a crude oil base & have certain additives added in order to perform the same task) to do the same job.

Over time & wear - all oil will break down and lose it lubricating properties. Conventional oil just does it quicker.

This is just a quick explaination - there is much more detail than I have provided (or even know), but you get the general idea.

confused yet?


Not at all:confused: . Thanks for the info.