Post Your Oil Sample Reports Here!! [Archive] - Nissan Titan Forum: Club Titan Forums

JetTech

09-02-2004, 04:46 PM

(http://www.clubtitan.org/adserver/adclick.php?log=no&bannerid=16&zoneid=&source=&dest=http%3A%2F%2Fblackstone-labs.com%2Ffree_test_titan.html)

This will be much like the sticky dyno thread where all oil samples will be posted here. Should be easy access and great reading for those of you who are looking for the perfect oil. If you don't have a server to host your pics of your oil sample just send them to me, I'll host them for you, and then put them on here for everyone to see. :D

For those of you interested in doing oil samples you can get free kits from Blackstone Labs. Their site is at BlackStone-Labs.com (http://www.clubtitan.org/adserver/adclick.php?log=no&bannerid=16&zoneid=&source=&dest=http%3A%2F%2Fblackstone-labs.com%2Ffree_test_titan.html). It costs $20 when you send the sample in to be read and typically I get the results back in 3 to 5 working days via e-mail. If your doing any kind of extended oil changes like 5K to 7500 miles than it would be worth it to pay an extra $10 and get the TBN number. This will tell you how much of the oils additives are left and if it can be used longer.

Now lets see who can get the lowest wear numbers from their oil of choice, I think some of you might be surprised to see the results!!

MikeZ

09-02-2004, 04:56 PM

I will be putting in some amsoil 10-30 probably this weekend depending on hurricane. How many miles do you suggest to run it to get a good oil analysis Dale?

JetTech

09-02-2004, 05:08 PM

I would start with 5K miles with the Amsoil, you could drain it at that point and send a sample in or you could just drain enough out for a sample and wait until you get your results. The "drain enough for a sample" routine is kind of hard because you have to do it HOT!! And sometimes those pesky drain plugs get slippery and drop in the pan.

To do this properly remove your drain plug, count to 3 and then put the sample container under the flow of oil. Remember it has to be done hot so wear some kind of protective gloves because that hot oil will scald you. Seal the container up, fill out the information requested in the sample container and then send it in. Nothing to it...

JetTech

09-02-2004, 05:39 PM

Here you all go, this sheet had two oil samples on it, the first one was done at 1K miles of which was the factory fill oil, the second one was Mobil 1 5W-30.

http://us.pixagogo.com/Tools/Thumbnails.aspx?thumb=S5XpcNu8I8-SbFnB8XTwFl9PWA0hShu63YrXUVAy3EfgvsGQqyzLDquoAhi!0 HcDayM2e0i1ty5px!930wd6E!Zl7tPKE8mDqC1vbrb5GmGdCFr 2E6QA061UT9x5w-TI4P

JetTech

09-02-2004, 07:33 PM

3rd oil sample...

http://us.pixagogo.com/Tools/Thumbnails.aspx?thumb=S57mMm!2Ai8JestxvKU2qqRXOFUk LJC8pl2ABRkR7FiOodgkDusrdetIveiEF1KsONRjWCahvVseOv NV3KkOvihQ7h!SxTYDRBdQeGX28!9mJ7KngrEj1jiw__

JetTech

09-02-2004, 07:36 PM

And here's the last one I had done not too long ago.

http://us.pixagogo.com/Tools/Thumbnails.aspx?thumb=S57Tswgsr36nfeanXt1Qa4EuR9E! 8oMVJGxV54VzlCjvl0ofOOPXguG!fhXdXAFcARAcadSgF3md5A JhAbmiLsCyGgfiiwZaeH8xrvyxDQYwBEDS!zdJEsQjO65f!tZg ufxNMOptm-2z4_

MikeZ

09-10-2004, 01:25 PM

Okay Dale,
I got some fresh amsoil 10-30 in today so we can compare. I will pull a sample at 5k which shouldnt take to aweful long now that I have my new volant in!!! :twisted:

M4ck

10-18-2004, 07:31 PM

finally got my kit only 2 months later. Next oil change I will have tested.
m4ck

KYFHO

11-11-2004, 02:06 PM

Okay Dale,
I got some fresh amsoil 10-30 in today so we can compare. I will pull a sample at 5k which shouldnt take to aweful long now that I have my new volant in!!! :twisted:

Have you gotten a sample yet on the Amsoil 10-30 :?:

strick9

02-01-2005, 05:06 PM

Dale,

So whiich viscosity of the Mobil 1 worked best for you, 0W40?

JetTech

02-01-2005, 05:13 PM

So far the 0W-40 has done the best. I'm doing an oil test though using Motorcraft semi-synthetic to see if the results are close. I think I've got another 2500 miles to go before I drain that. It will be a couple of months.

TeamMaximus

03-05-2005, 08:28 PM

Here's my first oil change sample, factory 10W30.

Greg

I can't upload a picture for some reason, so I'll try it as an attachment.

NC-TITAN

03-31-2005, 07:56 PM

I plan on letting the dealer change my oil and they told me they use Valvoline, would you use this brand or go with some other brand ??

JetTech

03-31-2005, 08:43 PM

I plan on letting the dealer change my oil and they told me they use Valvoline, would you use this brand or go with some other brand ??

Valvoline is known to have the weakest additive package. If you want to use a non synthetic oil there are several available that have great additive packages and do well in oil samples. They are Chevron Supreme and Texaco Havoline. Both of these do excellent and are usually highly recommended on other oil sites.

NC-TITAN

03-31-2005, 08:50 PM

Is the mobil oil you use blended or fully synthetic??

JetTech

03-31-2005, 08:55 PM

Is the mobil oil you use blended or fully synthetic??

I use the full synthetic Mobil 1. I use to use the M1 0W-40 but I can't find it anymore. I'll be using the new Extended Performance Mobil 1 5W-30 the next time I change it.

TitanHauler

04-07-2005, 02:18 AM

QWIKWHIP

04-07-2005, 08:56 AM

TitanHauler

04-12-2005, 08:34 PM

I changed my oil today and took a sample that I will send to BlackStone in the morning. The oil sample will be of the OEM 5W-30W, run through an OEM filter, with 3,861 miles. I switched over to Royal Purple 5W-30W Synthetic today with an OEM Filter so after 3,861 miles or so I will have that oil analyzed too. I will post the results once they come back on this first sample.
Sorry for the off topic, but are you telling me that you got your truck in March of 04 and it is now April of 05 and you just put 3800 miles on it???? Am I reading that correct? :) And I thought my 4kmi in 6 months was low!

I wish! No, total miles on my truck at the time of the oil change was 9,644. I had 3,861 miles on it since the last oil change. :) As of Thanksgiving last year though I only had a hair over 5,000 miles on it though. It just recently became my daily driver.

TitanHauler

04-12-2005, 08:40 PM

Ok, here are the results. This was on factory 5W-30W oil with a factory oil and air filter.

JetTech

04-13-2005, 05:45 AM

Wow, that's the best factory oil report I've seen yet. :thumbsup:

TitanHauler

04-17-2005, 02:51 AM

Wow, that's the best factory oil report I've seen yet. :thumbsup:

That's great to hear! I was pretty happy since there was towing mileage on that oil, lots of stop and go L.A. traffic driving, etc. I am eager to see what the synthetic oil I have in there now shows, especially since I am running the AEM intake now with the K&N style air filter. I think I will send a sample at 5,000 miles.

jrw396

04-22-2005, 12:07 PM

Just had Blackstone check my Toyota Camry and the results were great. They had to run it twice, because they couldn't believe the oil was so clean for 3 K mile old oil. I'll send off a sample to Blackstone on my Titan in a few months; just changed the oil before I received their first sample kit.

I am impressed with Blackstone, because they said that I needed to check the air filter to see if it needed cleaning or for an air leak, because the silicon content was up. Not a lot, but compared to the oil it was.

I run a K/N filter on this car, and when I checked it, it definitely needed cleaning and recharging. I forgot to do it last year, so it had 20 months on it. I'm glad I saved the original paper filter, so I can let the K/N dry out real good.

I intend to keep sending samples to Blackstone on all of my vehicles.

I also intend to send one in on the Titan differential fluids after a few K's miles. I will post it when I have it done. May take a while, as I don't put many miles on my vehicles. Need to go fishing more.

Thanks for the post JetTech about Blackstone Labs.

JetTech

04-22-2005, 06:31 PM

del-perro

04-22-2005, 07:01 PM

For us novice oil guys, is there a place (website) we can go for an explanation of what these oil sample results mean?

CLG

04-22-2005, 07:08 PM

JetTech

04-22-2005, 07:34 PM

I hope that last oil sample was on the old mobile one because I just returned 7qts of the old stuff for the new ep. (5w30) Man if the ep did that I will be going back and getting the new gf4 havaline. P.S. is he running a high flow air filter the silicone is prety high too.

I don't know CLG. He was having problems with converting the .pdf file to a .jpg, so he sent it to me in e-mail to convert for him. I e-mailed him back and told him it was now posted so we'll have to wait until he comes back on to get any answers.

I had a similiar experience with the old Mobil 1 5W-30. That oil sample was kind of pathetic as well. I'm not sure why because the Chevron 5W-30 works excellent, so it's not the weight that's the problem. It's got to have something to do with the formula Mobil 1 uses. I'm very interested to see how the new EP 5W-30 does. I hope MUCH better then the old.

RockyMtnTitan

04-22-2005, 09:09 PM

How much more expensive is the new EP stuff compared to the old M1??
Looks like it's got a lot more anti-wear additives.

JetTech

04-22-2005, 09:20 PM

It seems to be the same price if you buy it in the 5 qt. jug at wally world

electricjohn

04-22-2005, 10:48 PM

Here's an oil sample from electricjohn. It appears the Mobil 1 5W-30 just doesn't cut it in the Titan engine. You'll see his lead is high along with iron and chromium. I'm assuming this is the old Mobil 1 5W-30, is that right electricjohn??

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5BYLZVYwE-BG39Lx9sn8pgDzRwlmzqp!QgQlx2j9GKk57!W5kbPgD7z18LfD 1cGCikGOIRmXWFr2phtMOJS4PLMtYKLfoAFp8/C42713.jpg J.Tech; First of all THANK YOU for posting the lab report for me. I had a feeling people would find it interesting. Yea, it is the old stuff. The oil was in the truck for seven and half months. I ran Gumout fuel injector cleaner in the last tank of gas before the oil change. I am guessing that is why the lead is high. If I use F.I. cleaner I put it in the tank of gas prior to changing the oil. As for the chrome and iron, it is makeing me alittle nervous, will definitly do another O.A. when I change this oil. Might change at 5000 miles this time or pull a sample at 5000. I am running the M-1 EP this time.

jrw396

04-22-2005, 10:52 PM

Electricjohn:
Do you change the filter at 3000 miles or let it ride the full 7500?
What filter are you using?

electricjohn

04-22-2005, 11:02 PM

electricjohn

04-22-2005, 11:06 PM

Electricjohn:
Do you change the filter at 3000 miles or let it ride the full 7500?
What filter are you using?The first 3252 miles i used a fram filter, then changed to a Wix for the duration.

jrw396

04-22-2005, 11:19 PM

I am by no means an expert on oil filters, but I do know that the factory filter has a check valve in it to allow the oil to circulate faster. Since you are spending the money on synthetic oil, you may want to consider the Nissan filter.
Seems like JetTech has had good feed back from Blackstone regarding his samples using the Nissan standard filter.

electricjohn

04-23-2005, 09:33 AM

I'm back with the nissan filter now. Decided on that long before I got the the O.A.

rexracer

05-16-2005, 07:33 PM

just got the report back on my first oil change. Just over 1400 mi and now I have 7 qts. of fresh mobil 1 0w-40 and a new Nissan filter. I guess the high levels of silicon and copper are normal for a first change. I'll see how it looks at 5000 mi or so.

rexracer

05-16-2005, 07:38 PM

Sorry about the crappy pic. I don't have a working scanner so I had to fax it to my computer.

JetTech

05-17-2005, 06:56 PM

I sure wouldn't worry about the high readings rex, like you said, it is the original oil so it will have lots of gunk in it anyhow. I bet your next one will be perfect!!

07-04-2005, 05:07 PM

We just picked up our Titan and I just ordered the oil analysis kit. I've done oil analysis on aircraft engines before, I'm excited to have insight to the health of our engine.

If I remember correctly Nissan recommends 2400 miles for the first oil change. I'll switch over to Mobil 1 0W40 synthetic and a Nissan filter for the first change. My wife drives about 30,000 miles a year so the data should add up quickly.

WindsorFox

07-09-2005, 12:59 PM

I will be putting in some amsoil 10-30 probably this weekend depending on hurricane. How many miles do you suggest to run it to get a good oil analysis Dale?

<GASP!> OMG I think I'm going to pass out! After years of enduring abuse, personal attacks and being called dirty names, to find a forum where someone said he's going to use Amsoil and then get away with it made my blood pressure drop to zero. I just can't imagine a thread for oil analasys reports on a non-oil based auto enthusiest site. I may have to stay here...

RockyMtnTitan

07-09-2005, 04:52 PM

<GASP!> OMG I think I'm going to pass out! After years of enduring abuse, personal attacks and being called dirty names, to find a forum where someone said he's going to use Amsoil and then get away with it made my blood pressure drop to zero. I just can't imagine a thread for oil analasys reports on a non-oil based auto enthusiest site. I may have to stay here...

As you can tell....it's a little different here. Simply by becoming a member here, your life expectancy just went up 8O ....welcome!

TheSquid

07-30-2005, 07:56 AM

JetTech

07-30-2005, 10:45 AM

VERY impressive squid!!! That's the same oil I'm running in my titan right now too. Thanks for posting this, excellent information!!

WindsorFox

07-30-2005, 02:43 PM

Have you ever seen the inside of a Fram oil filter. I'd have to say choose something else. ANYthing else....

TheSquid

07-30-2005, 11:56 PM

Have you ever seen the inside of a Fram oil filter. I'd have to say choose something else. ANYthing else....

I was expecting that comment.
Thanks for the concern but I've been using them for 30 years and will continue to use them. I've got over 100,000 miles on my 82 Vette and 200,000 on my 72 Landcruiser using the orange fram with no failure. This is the tough Guard and here is what is being said by the filter Gurus.

Fram Tough Guard
Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with a clever integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there. I personally do not use this filter, but the design didn't have enough bad qualities to cause me to tell others to avoid it.

Thanks again for the frindly advice but I'm old and believe in real world expierence over short term clinical testing.

Jettech wrote
VERY impressive squid!!! That's the same oil I'm running in my titan right now too. Thanks for posting this, excellent information!!

Glad to post it. Your post back in August of 04 when I first got my truck saved me my rear end and sold me on the Mobil 1 0W40 so I thought "I'd pay it forward."

JetTech

07-31-2005, 12:18 AM

Thanks for the kind words squid. I hope you continue to post here and have fun!! That's what CT is all about, getting the right information, helping others, and thoroughly enjoying yourself.

I've only got 3K miles on the new M1 5W-30 in my truck, but will be doing a sample at 5K just to see how it's doing. Ever since I installed the JBA headers I've been getting lots of fuel in my oil samples, so we'll see if the new M1 can hold up well to it. Again thanks and enjoy!!

WindsorFox

07-31-2005, 12:36 AM

"The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there."

They have not been that way for 30 years, only about 8. After having blown one of those cardboard end pieces off and seen the inside of three others that had spots on the cardboard pieces where there was no glue, I'll never use them again.

SupraTitan

07-31-2005, 09:59 AM

Here's an oil sample from electricjohn. It appears the Mobil 1 5W-30 just doesn't cut it in the Titan engine. You'll see his lead is high along with iron and chromium. I'm assuming this is the old Mobil 1 5W-30, is that right electricjohn??

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5BYLZVYwE-BG39Lx9sn8pgDzRwlmzqp!QgQlx2j9GKk57!W5kbPgD7z18LfD 1cGCikGOIRmXWFr2phtMOJS4PLMtYKLfoAFp8/C42713.jpg

I would steer clear of the mobil 30wts in the Titan. Espcially after seeing these results. Mercedes-Benz forbides using Mobil 1 30wts in thier engines due to not meeting high temp, high shear strength. Although this oil doesn't appear to have sheared, if anything it thickend up some. Being that chromium is typically piston ring wear, and Iron is cylinder bore wear you can see this oil doesn't appear to protect the combustion chamber as well as it should. I'm sure you do much better with an ACEA A3 rated oil such as Mobil 1 0w-40, 5w-40suv or ep 10w-40 or German Castrol syntec 0w-30. Your problem appears to be an an air filtration issue, with the silicon at 25ppm you most likely are sucking in dirt adding to the elevated wear metal. Check that the filter is installed correctly.

JetTech

08-03-2005, 01:32 AM

I hear what you're saying supratitan, but this sample that I posted for electricjohn was the old M1 5W-30. Looking at the sample from squids truck, it appears the new M1 EP 5W-30 is much more robust and can hang with the big displacement engines. I'll be posting a sample of the new M1 5W-30 here soon as well, we'll see how it holds up in my engine.

As far as the mercedes spec 229.5, don't forget they were the ones that recommended running a non-synthetic oil in their FSS cars back in '98 for 15K miles. I believe they will regret that move for years to come.....I know they have since upgraded their recommendations but it does make you wonder what they were thinking when it came to oil changes in their cars at 15K miles on regular old Kendall GT-40 15W-40, at least that's what they used to put in the C230 my wife used to own....OUCH!!! Those were the days I would take my own oil to them and have it put in.. :D

wanmichael

08-11-2005, 05:10 PM

I'll have to disagree with a few folks here regarding M1 and MB recommended dino for 15K drains.

The 7500mi. run with M1 5w-30 that had elevated Fe and Cr was because most of that wear was lingering from break-in. It CAN take up to 20K for wear to stabilize on a V8 engine, and it may take at least 3-4 oil changes for the UOA to appear decent.

Keep in mind that M1's weakness is that it does not seem to be as good at protecting against valvetrain wear as other oils, mainly because of a weakness in their chemistry. (think its due to the lack of esters)

As for MB, they did NOT tell people that syn must be used, but anyone with common sense will know that dino cannot go 15K.

Mobil 1 0w-40, you might as well call it Mobil 1 0w-30. The large span and the large amounts of VI used in this oil, causes this oil to shear rapidly. This oil is at exactly 3.5cp, in terms of HT/HS, which is the minimum required in order to meet the ACEA A3/B3 standards.

I think that in this engine, GC 0w-30, known as Castrol Syntec 0w-30 Made in Germany will perform quite well in this engine because it is a borderline 30/40wt, and stays at this viscosity throughout the drain. It tests out at about 12.3 cst, which is almost a 40wt.

Michael

RockyMtnTitan

08-15-2005, 04:37 PM

Thought you all might be interested in the results of my analysis of the new Mobil 1 15,000 mile Super Syn 5W30 after 7,000 miles. I run an Airhog air filter and a Fram Tough guard oil filter. I'm going to run the oil in the truck to 9,000 miles this time since I'm so pleased with the numbers. I paid the extra $10 for the TBN but for some reason it wasn't included in the e-mail. (I'll call Monday) Also when I get the new kits I'm going to send in a sample of new oil so I have something to compare the 9,000 mile oil to.

By the way, I'm the "Squid" from T.T. and The Spot.http://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/lolrun.gif

Those numbers look very encouraging, Squid...especially the low silicon count. I just switched to M1 EP 5W-30 oil last weekend. The sample I'm sending in to Blackstone is regular M1 5W-30 and has 7800 miles on it. I'm a little worried some of my levels, esp silicon, will be high since I've done quite a bit of driving dirt roads this year....we'll see. I was running the Air Hog for most of this interval before installing the Volant, so we'll see, I guess. I'll be sending in periodic samples to see how long I can safely run this new oil. I will be doing the TBN tests as well to see how the additives are hanging in there.

Also, I installed the Fram Sure Drain kit (SD-3) on my truck this oil change. This will make it easy-peasy to do oil changes and pull periodic samples to send in for analysis. Basically you just install it in place of your drain plug. It has an internal spring-loaded valve that opens when you screw on the short drain hose. Comes with a threaded seal cap to keep crud out of the threads. This seemed easier to me than pulling samples from the top side using a siphon pump, plus should make oil changes a snap.

jrw396

08-15-2005, 04:52 PM

RockyMtnTitan

[Also, I installed the Fram Sure Drain kit (SD-3) on my truck this oil change. This will make it easy-peasy to do oil changes and pull periodic samples to send in for analysis.]

I like the Fram Sure Drain kit idea. Where did you get it? I'm going to add it my next oil change.

RockyMtnTitan

08-15-2005, 05:40 PM

jrw396

08-15-2005, 09:44 PM

Thanks, just went out and bought one at Auto Zone for the same price. Thanks for the model number (SD-3), because there were 4 to pick from.

RockyMtnTitan

08-16-2005, 12:30 AM

Thanks, just went out and bought one at Auto Zone for the same price. Thanks for the model number (SD-3), because there were 4 to pick from.

Sweet! I'm thinkin' maybe next oil change I won't make as much of a darn mess! It's kinda hard to judge the trajectory of the oil with that angled drain plug on our trucks...at least for me. With this kit, it's basically just point 'n shoot...gotta love that...plus no more hot oil on the hands to deal with.

TheSquid

08-16-2005, 07:41 AM

JetTech

08-17-2005, 02:46 AM

Here's an oil sample from electricjohn's Titan that he asked me to post for him. Let me know what you all think..

electricjohn

08-17-2005, 08:31 PM

THANKS JT for posting this for me. This was a midway sample(going to 7500 miles), using a nissan filter. I am happier with the results this time compared to the old M1(first sample), but not totally impressed with the new M1. I still feel the iron and chrome are a tad high, but glad to see silicone went down. I'll be at 7500 miles on this oil in about a week and will do a sample of that with a TBN. On the first sample I used fuel injector cleaner just prior to changing the oil which I fiqured contributed to the high lead reading. This time I will not do that to see if the number goes down. Always looking for input.
John

JetTech

08-18-2005, 02:52 AM

I with you on this one ej, this sample is better then the last one you had but it isn't as good as I was expecting/hoping for from the new EP Mobil 1, especially after seeing squids oil sample of the same oil. Perhaps our resident expert (wanmichael) will chime in here and give us his take. At least I hope he does, I don't like being teased.... :lol:

wanmichael

08-22-2005, 05:33 PM

EJ,
The elevated Lead in the first sample (7500) explains the Fuel Injector Cleaner.

This is why I stay away from that stuff (whatever you're using) and use something that cleans slowly, and continuously and does not affect wear. (i.e. Fuel Power at every fill-up)

Your wear is elevated for one reason that BK Labs failed to point out: Fuel

Look at your flashpoint, it is being lowered because of fuel dilution. The high Iron is also telling you that as well.

In addition, for this application ONLY, a slightly thicker lube, such as GC 0w-30, that is Castrol Syntec 0w-30 MADE IN GERMANY, avaliable at Autozone ONLY may benefit you as it MAY protect better and reduce wear with the fuel dilution.

Thanks JT for the compliment.

MW

JetTech

08-22-2005, 05:40 PM

I wonder why his fuel level is so high?? Perhaps excessive idling maybe or short trips?? How about it electricjohn, does this sound like something your truck sees on a frequent basis??

wanmichael

08-22-2005, 06:28 PM

BTW, I suggest that people NOT jump to conclusions immediately that oil or oil viscosity is an issue whenever abnormal wear is present.

Remember that oil viscosity has a very limited effect on engine wear. Keep in mind that some oil chemistries will protect better under some applications, than others.

Fuel, dirt ingestion, lingering break-in wear, and additive clash are common causes of abnormal wear that you see on oil analysis reports.

MW

electricjohn

08-22-2005, 09:22 PM

JT: My trip to work is under 10 miles, and I taxi my daughters around town alot. That pretty much describes the use of my truck during the time before I pulled this midway sample. Since then it is mostly long trips(275 miles), pulling a 5000 lb skiboat or a 2000 lb pop-up camper, and my daughter got her drivers license so no more taxi-ing. I also don't work during July and August, so the second half of this oil run is quite different than the first. I am going to make one more long trip with the boat this w/end, then change the oil. It will put about 7800 miles total on the oil. [UOA coming] As for long idles; no, I never let my truck idle. Start it up and go(easy when cold). WMi: Where do you think the fuel would be coming from? Also, wouldn't it boil off in the hot oil? I found the GC at auto zone. Does it come in any other grade besides 0W-30? That to me seems like a big span equalling excess VI's. I saw a 10W-30 or 40(not sure) made in Belgium. Know anything about that? Thanks for all the input guys. I never knew oil could be so fun.

wanmichael

08-23-2005, 12:53 PM

EJ,
If you're 10 mi. commute is city driving, with lots of stop-n-go, thats probably why. The oil doesn't heat up to temperature, at least as quickly, in city driving.

As far as span goes, with quality basestocks and a good chemistry, the max span that you can have, and still get a shear stable lubricant would be a 35pt span, like in a 5w-40.

Now, keep in mind that the GC 0w-30 has been proven on BITOG to be a very stable lube. Now, I don't know which one you bought, but did you buy the one with the M04 or M05 Batch code? The M04 and earlier was the green stuff that everyone was crazy about, the M05 is the latest formulation with a different add pack, less Ca but more Mg. I've only seen one report from the M05 (Gold color) stuff so far, but it appears to perform as well as the Green stuff even though it starts out at a lower TBN.

Just remember that not all 0w-30 oils are stable in terms of vis, some of 'em like M1 0w-30 aren't very stable at all, let alone their 0w-40 which is notorious for shearing down to a 0w-30 like vis almost immediately.

Please take some pictures of the oil you bought so that we can verify that you bought the right stuff. (Pics of the batch code, front and back labels.)

MW

RockyMtnTitan

08-23-2005, 01:00 PM

Good info, wanmichael....you do know your stuff! Thanks for all the input/analysis.

electricjohn

08-23-2005, 04:04 PM

Mike; I did not buy the oil(GC 0-30) yet. I caught your last post before leaving work though and stopped by the Autozone store. The oil they have was from the MO4 batch. I'll pick it up later today. I am not going to change the oil till I come back from upstate NY, which will give me another 600 miles of towing with this oil(5000 lb boat). Total towing miles on the oil will then be about 3000 out of the 3800 since the midpoint UOA. I'm anxious to see how the M1-EP stood up to that. Talk to you again.
John

wanmichael

08-23-2005, 04:12 PM

John,
The M04 stuff is awesome, proven, and proven again, to be an outstanding oil. If you find any, buy all of it as its been discontinued in favor of the gold colored, M05 batch. (New Formulation)

However, I'd really like to see someone give the M05 stuff a try.

Please note that you should NOT mix the two together, since they are two different formulations and if you mix them, you cannot accurately see the performance of the oil in your particular app.

MW

jrw396

08-27-2005, 09:20 PM

Walmart Super Tech 10W/30 synthetic oil sample. Not bad at all.

JetTech

08-27-2005, 09:29 PM

Excellent sample jrw!!! I've said this before and will say it again, the endurance engine is so well built that we could probably run crisco in it and get back great results... :lol: Seriously though, it seems like we are splitting hairs here between the high dollar synthetics and the more affordable group III ones like you used. Congrats and keep posting these in the future, it is excellent information.....

jrw396

08-27-2005, 09:47 PM

Thanks for the overview.

I agree with splitting hairs and wanted to try the Super Tech because no one had posted a sample that I could find.

I will keep using it, but am still going to change at 3000 miles as I always have even though I could get by at 4410 miles as Blackstone noted. I like to keep my life simple and besides 4410 is too hard to remember added to 9050. NOT enough fingers. I'll continue to run samples every 9000 miles.

Thanks for the heads up on running these samples, because I never would have done it, if you hadn't posted yours. Makes sense to keep doing it on all my vehicles.

RockyMtnTitan

08-27-2005, 11:46 PM

I'm getting worried about my sample sent to Blackstone. I sent it over a week ago, and they said they still have not received it. I was a little concerned sending it via USPO instead of UPS/FEDX. Anyone else sent theirs USPO? :(

TheSquid

08-27-2005, 11:49 PM

JetTech

08-28-2005, 10:31 AM

I always send mine USPO too, sounds like yours may have gotten lost.. :cry: Hopefully it will show up within the next few days...

RockyMtnTitan

08-29-2005, 10:26 PM

Hooray....well, sort of. Good news is Blackstone finally got my sample....don't know why it took over a week to get there. Bad news is, I'm not real happy with the analysis...but it is what it is, I guess. I'm hoping for a better one next time which will be with M1 EP 5W-30 @ 5K miles. Let me know your expert opinions of this report!

electricjohn

08-30-2005, 01:47 PM

RockyMtnTitan

08-30-2005, 02:40 PM

Those wear numbers look like my analysis using the old M1. Just picked up some GC from the M04 batch. Will be changing oil soon. Just waiting for 7500 miles on the new M1. I did do a mid-way filter change, and got the oil from the clean side of the filter analized(posted above).

I'm anxious to see how your next one comes back with the M1 EP, since that's what I'm running for my next UOA. If I'm not happy with this next one, then I may try the GC M04 (if I can still find it) recommended by wanmichael.

TheSquid

08-30-2005, 03:11 PM

RockyMtnTitan

08-30-2005, 10:12 PM

Just the regular M1.....the next sample will be with the EP, so hopefully it will look closer to your last report....hopefully!

wanmichael

09-02-2005, 03:53 PM

Honestly, those results are excellent, and the syn isn't giving you any benefits there, at all.

Syns aren't supposed to shear like conventionals, but this Supertech synthetic did shear.

You're simply wasting your money by needlessly spending more money on syn for 3K changes.

If you really intend on doing 3K changes, I suggest buying the Trop Artic Blend 10w-30 (API SM) from Walmart and it will give you the same results for about $1.25-$1.50/qt.

Michael

wanmichael

09-02-2005, 03:59 PM

RockyMtnTitan

09-02-2005, 04:39 PM

Lead 25 :roll:
Silicon 22 :roll:

Sorry, but this engine shouldn't have more than 10ppm of lead, new or old. Look at some of the factory fills posted here, the lead doesn't exceed 10ppm on the factory oil.

I think the problem here is that you may have a leak in the intake system somewhere, perhaps in the air filter. Was this the 2nd or 3rd Fill for this truck? What's the past oil change history?

If results don't improve in your next sample at 5K, I'd suggest running 1 bottle Auto-RX to clean-up some of this residue dirt you have inside of there and switch to a thicker lube and see if results improve.

BTW, what's your driving style? That may explain it.

Michael

Thanks for the analysis of my analysis, Michael. :)

No leaks on the intake, but I was running a performance filter (Air Hog, followed by Volant) during this sample. I also did quite a bit of driving dirt roads in the mountains. Might explain the silicon, but what about the lead?

This was my third oil change, but the first extended interval (7800 mi). No previous analysis to compare with. This UOA was with M1 5W-30, next one will be with M1 EP 5W-30...so I'm hoping the extra additives will help with reducing the wear metals, at least. The TBN showed I was getting low on additive.

I'll see where I'm at on my next UOA at 5K with the EP stuff. I'm also looking at upgrading the air filter from the Volant to an AFE Progard7 model with a bit more surface area and better filtration.

As far as my driving habits go, I'd say I'm pretty moderate most the time, but can't help myself from stompin' it occasionally. :lol:

TheSquid

09-02-2005, 05:18 PM

So you're thinking the Volant filter isn't adequate for dusty conditions?

wanmichael

09-02-2005, 05:55 PM

I think his air filter is dirty, or is not sealing well, and the dusty conditions allowed him to ingest large amounts of dirt.

Seriously, if the wear values don't drop significantly by the next service interval, then he probably has a damaged bearing overlay (Al, Cr, Fe, Cu) that is leaching or a scored bearing from the dirt. The presence of Tin is telling you that there is some bearing wear that MAY be going on.

We'll see.

Michael

RockyMtnTitan

09-02-2005, 09:15 PM

Well, the Air Hog was in service for about the first 4500 miles of this 7800 mile interval, then the Volant went on with the CAI. The Volant is not dirty, but is notorious for drying out prematurely, requiring more frequent cleaning/re-oiling....but at approx 3K on the Volant, I can't really say that this is the cause. Again, there is no leaks on the intake tube, filter conn or manifold.

The silicon I think I can get under control with the AFE Progard filter....the diesel guys love this filter due to it's ability to flow better than paper and give excellent protection from silicon. The wear metals have me a bit worried, but I'm not losing sleep over it until I see another analysis with the new M1 EP I'm running now. Thanks, Michael.

RockyMtnTitan

09-02-2005, 09:24 PM

So you're thinking the Volant filter isn't adequate for dusty conditions?

Yeah, that's the only thing I can think of. I know you've been running the Air Hog with good results, so...I dunno. Maybe it's just that 7500 is too long between changes for the old M1 stuff, coupled with the fact that the oil filter is so friggin' tiny. I'll change the oil filter at 5K, when I pull another sample this time.

Blue_Water_Rush

09-03-2005, 11:45 PM

TheSquid

09-04-2005, 12:01 AM

Hey blue,

I run Synthetic because I plan on taking the oil to it's limit. If I was going to change my oil every 3,000 mile I wouldn't spend the extra money but I've already ran the Mobil-1 EP to 7,000 miles and now I'm going to take it to 9,000.

Here's my results for the 15,000 mile Mobil-1 after 7,000 miles.

http://www.clubtitan.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=download&id=4991

wanmichael

09-04-2005, 05:32 PM

Hi All,
This thread is great, some good info. here and I respect & appreciate the knowledge of those more mechanically informed than myself. I just sent for the blackstone kit, and will send my first sample at the next change. I will also install the fram drain kit at that time (thanks RMT). I have done one change so far at 3,750 mi. and am now at 6,600 mi.
For my first change I used pennzoil 10w30, and I still have enough left for the 2nd change, but I'm seeing that many are using the synthetics. Looks like the M1 EP 5-30 is a popular choice, as well as the castrol (used to run their non-synthetic in my 78 VW). I'm wondering if I should inform blackstone prior to testing, that I'm running an aftermarket intake and exhaust, in order for them to make an accurate assessment of my results. It looks as though the metals are high on the first couple tests of most members, and I'm guessing thats due to normal break-in.

Anyway, this should be fun, and I'm looking forward to learning more about the effectiveness and performance of the various motor oils out there. Can anyone tell me if the synthetics are really that much better than the conventionals? With the price of crude escalating at a ridiculous rate, maybe the synthetics will be a logical alternative.
:learn:
If I'd were you, I would hold off on the oil sample until your third change, at about 11,000 mi.

Synthetics do not necessairly extend the service interval, as I was recently told be a GM engineer. I'm still researching this topic to learn more about what he said, but I think he is correct to an extent.

Thus, I'd simply change every 4-5000 mi. or 6 months with a quality, conventional oil such as Trop Artic Blend 5w or 10w-30 and sample after your SECOND run with the oil to ensure that you get a good analysis, without interference from additive clash.

Blackstone's comments are honestly close to worthless.

Michael

Blue_Water_Rush

09-04-2005, 06:00 PM

[quote="wanmichael"] Thus, I'd simply change every 4-5000 mi. or 6 months with a quality, conventional oil such as Trop Artic Blend 5w or 10w-30 [/quote}
Any comments or criticizms of pennzoil?

TheSquid

09-04-2005, 06:35 PM

rexracer

09-04-2005, 11:25 PM

got_titan

09-04-2005, 11:58 PM

CLG

09-05-2005, 10:26 AM

hey guys got my new oil sample, i ran the mobil 1 blend for about 4500 miles. all city driving and i think the sodium is from the recharge of the volant air filter. let me know what you guys think? good or bad! click the pic to enlarge.

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/1369/file00043ov.th.jpg (http://img40.imageshack.us/my.php?image=file00043ov.jpg)
When you say M1 blended do you mean mobil clean 5000 or 7500? Reason I ask is because both of these oils use sodium as part of the add pack and nothing to worry about I will see if I can find a link for you. Hopefully this works http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000288
Ok if this link works check out the levels of na sodium
Also with everyone running M1 I am running castrol syntec blend with Lube Control for comparison and will soon try GC 0w30 and run it all winter.
I dont think you can do much better than squids results though.

got_titan

09-05-2005, 09:07 PM

msp2928

09-07-2005, 12:31 PM

wanmichael

09-07-2005, 07:20 PM

I was wondering why no one speaks of Amsoil on this site??? I get my new Titan next week and already ordering a new grill...etc. I was also thinking of what oil to use. I have access to Amsoil cheap. I know they do thier own oil profiles, but if it was my oil..I would say its great!!! I am I missing something on Amsoil????????? :( I was thinking of going with thier Series 2000 0W-30. Should I duck now????
Dave
Dave, if you decide to use Amsoil, use Series 3000 5w-30 as the 0w-30 does not handle contamination well from V8 engines and thickens up very rapidly. In addition, I suggest running conventional oil for two 3-4000 mi. intervals after removing the factory fill before extending drains with Amsoil, so that you can “flush out” as many of the wear metals leftover from the break-in period as possible.

Also, Amsoil is VERY overpriced and most dinos work as well as syns.

To the others: I’m going to “reevaluate” some of your oil analysis results as one of my pals pointed out that the elevated Si maybe from gasket leaching. Also, I’ll explain more on the “why syns do not extend service intervals” subject later when I have more time.

Michael

rexracer

09-14-2005, 10:28 PM

OK. Here is my latest sample. I'm running Mobil 1 0w-40 with the stock Nissan filter. Ran a few more miles than I wanted to, but it looks like it should be good at this interval. The motor is totally stock right now :cry:

strick9

09-15-2005, 12:10 AM

09-16-2005, 09:27 PM

Dave, if you decide to use Amsoil, use Series 3000 5w-30 as the 0w-30 does not handle contamination well from V8 engines and thickens up very rapidly. In addition, I suggest running conventional oil for two 3-4000 mi. intervals after removing the factory fill before extending drains with Amsoil, so that you can “flush out” as many of the wear metals leftover from the break-in period as possible.

Michael

So when would you guys recommend the first oil change be? Dealer recommends 2500k. Would it be adviseable to do it sooner? And I'm interested in converting to full synthetic but based on the sample reports and input don't know if it's worth it. If I decide to convert, how soon should I convert to synthetic?

Thanks in advance.
Ron

TheSquid

09-17-2005, 05:19 AM

Well Q, I'm old school so I always change my oil at 500 miles and then again at the 3000 mile mark in a new vehicle.(Just makes me feel better getting all that break in crap out early.)
I switched to Synthetic at 6000 miles and I'm currently on a 9000 mile run with the New Mobil 1 15000 mile extended oil after just running it 7000 miles with great results. Here's the link to oil analysis.
http://www.clubtitan.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=download&id=4991

In total I now have over 39,500 miles on my truck.

09-17-2005, 06:28 PM

JetTech

09-19-2005, 06:18 AM

Here's another sample from electricjohn using the M1 EP 5W-30. Blackstone didn't mention it but the lead is looking a little on the high side as well as the silicon, but then again this sample was for 7500 miles. 6 ppm probably isn't too bad when broken down per thousand miles and the "in use" time. Anyone else care to do some disection/interpretation of this sample...???

EDIT: Oh yeah, and it thickened up out of grade......I thought only Amsoil was famous for that. Wanmichael, is this starting to be the trend with the new M1 EP line???

http://www.pixagogo.com/S5BYLZVYwE-BFiYdbkQiMVFfbeOdyzd3Mj5BFagpvYN6Ip8xFn9-txokp!LwcqowMXaUQI51WmkFzapVT87QUM7uLEIwnjN3tD/C55002.jpg

electricjohn

09-19-2005, 08:55 AM

Thanks JT for posting my report above. The last two samples on this report is the same oil. The 3750 mile report is the midpoint of the 09/05/05 report. What I liked is the fact that wear, namely chrome and iron really droped off after 15,250 miles on the motor. Another thing I found odd was the flashpoint went up from the midway sample (370-390). Also, Maybe the thickening up was a good thing considering how the wear dropped off. At the mid-point the oil was still in grade. The insolulables stayed the same from the midpoint too. I did change the filter at that time and used a Pure One. JT; If you look at universal averages for lead, I don't feel the 6 ppm is to bad. The univ. ave. is for a 4500 mile sample.

JetTech

09-19-2005, 09:06 AM

JT; If you look at universal averages for lead, I don't feel the 6 ppm is to bad. The univ. ave. is for a 4500 mile sample.

Yup, you're right John, I missed the 4500 mile average..... :oops:

Thanks for having this done John. I'll be adding another sample of this oil probably early next week. I just drained it at 5600 miles so we'll see how it's holding up to my typical high fuel content...

TheSquid

09-19-2005, 06:50 PM

Lead was at 5 on my sample of this oil at 7000 miles while the silicon level was 11. I do have quite a few more miles on my truck and wonder if that makes a difference?

I also don't understand why his oil thickened up and mine didn't? Is it possible that I just did a more complete drain before refilling?

I'm half way to the 9000 mile mark so I should have another sample for all of you around the first part of November.

electricjohn

09-22-2005, 03:10 PM

My truck was mainly used to pull my 5000# boat at 70+ mph in 4th gear during the second half of this oil's run. A typical run was about 5 hrs, going from central NJ to upstate NY with some nice 3-4% grades. I figured this might be the cause of the thickening of the oil, but just guessing. When I change my oil, I always do it hot, and let it drain overnight or all day. I pull my sample 1/2 way thru the fast drain.

TheSquid

09-22-2005, 05:56 PM

Rossi

09-22-2005, 06:32 PM

Renegade45

09-27-2005, 08:53 PM

By the way, I'm the "Squid" from T.T.http://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/lolrun.gif

Aren't you the one who started all the trouble on TT and got banned?

EZTYGA

10-02-2005, 05:46 PM

Man this is one great site. All this info. What type of oil would one recommend for the weather in Hawaii ( never goes below 58 or above 92)

jrw396

10-02-2005, 09:00 PM

Man this is one great site. All this info. What type of oil would one recommend for the weather in Hawaii ( never goes below 58 or above 92)
Coconut oil.
You have to rub it on.

EZTYGA

10-02-2005, 10:15 PM

Man this is one great site. All this info. What type of oil would one recommend for the weather in Hawaii ( never goes below 58 or above 92)
Coconut oil.
You have to rub it on.
lol your funnier then u look
:rollingeyez:

jrw396

10-03-2005, 10:42 AM

Couldn't resist. :lol:
I run Super Tech 10W/30 synthetic in mine.
Oil sample is posted and came out just fine.
You should be able to run the same because the low temp is not a concern in your area or mine.

RockyMtnTitan

10-03-2005, 11:46 AM

Man this is one great site. All this info. What type of oil would one recommend for the weather in Hawaii ( never goes below 58 or above 92)
Coconut oil.
You have to rub it on.

:roflmao: Would that be the synthetic, extended performance stuff!

GETSOMZ28

10-08-2005, 09:20 AM

electricjohn

10-08-2005, 03:23 PM

I am using it now(from the M04 batch, the green stuff). The engine is as quiet as it was using M1 5 or 10w-30 EP which I ran 7500 miles. The only difference I notice is my MPG's dropped off by about 1 MPG. The green stuff is no longer available (what the BITOG guys rave about), but was replaced by gold stuff (called M05), and although the formulation is nearly identical, except for different amounts of calcium and phosphorus( one was increased, one was decreased), the jury still seems to be out on it. They are waiting for UOA's to come back before calling it an equal replacement. I will do a UOA when I change my oil, but that is months away.

JayDee

10-08-2005, 03:42 PM

Has anyone used/using the German Castrol Syntec 0w30? It is raved about on BITOG and LS1 (another all aluminum engine) forums. Now that we are in Ohio it is readily available off the shelf. Good thing because my supply of M1 0W40 is running low.

I've been running it since 8,100 miles (I have 11,600 now) and it's still wonderful. I also use a Mobil filter. BTW, this IS the German made type.

I found that Autozone had it in stock and I bought 21 quarts of it (3 oil changes) and 3 Mobil filters, so I should be set for quite a while! :lol:

wanmichael

10-24-2005, 11:59 PM

[Synthetics do not necessairly extend the service interval, as I was recently told be a GM engineer. I'm still researching this topic to learn more about what he said, but I think he is correct to an extent.

Blackstone's comments are honestly close to worthless.

Michael

I find these comments confusing. Clarification please. :)
I'd like to hear som explanation myself. :?
The reason why I state that BKLab's comments are close to worthless is because they aren't always familiar with the chemistry of some oils. In addition, they don't always flag the silicon unless its excessive, and they fail to point out the air filter as something that could be checked to try and improve results.

In addition, they aren't very familiar with the high readings that occur with Redline's oils. Redline tends to produce high readings (wear metal wise and low TBN) as it cleans up the residue, soft wear metals that will appear on an UOA. In addition, Redline will oftens how a low TBN but its baseoil is still able to neutralize the acid.

Mike

wanmichael

10-25-2005, 12:03 AM

Brons2

10-26-2005, 10:20 AM

This last one wasn't the greatest for me, 5ppm lead over 4037 mi...

Vehicle 2004 Nissan Titan, 5.6 liter 32 valve V8
12060 miles on unit at time of sample, 4037 mile interval.
Nissan OEM oil filter used.
This is a witches brew of 5.5 qts SL 5w30 Formula Shell, 1 qt SL 5w30 Pennzoil and approximately 9oz of VSOT.

Current, previous (3400 mi on dealer bulk Citgo 10w30, no adds, sample taken at 8023 mi)

AL 4,3
Ca 2062,1782
Cr 1,1
Cu 5,2
Fe 6,8
Pb 5,2
Mg 62,7
Mo 257,105
P 1013,724
K 2,0
Si 20,14
Na 4,1
Sn 1,1
Zn 1151,860

ST 0
OXI 56,28
NIT 54,49
SUL 33,17
W Neg,Neg
A/F Neg,Neg
F Neg,Neg
V100 9.8,9.2
TBN 4.0,4.0

I put a new Wix air filter in after getting this most recent result. Silicon is very high due to construction dust and I don't know how avoidable it is in my environment. I am planning on sticking at 3K intervals.

My truck is one argument for using a shear stable syn 30wt (or even 0w40), as it really beats down dino 30wt without some sort of additive (in this case the VSOT held it in the 30wt range). I have a couple of other analyses that showed my dino ended up at 5w20/10w20. This engine needs a shear stable oil due to the large valvetrain and chain driven cams.

Brons2

10-26-2005, 10:34 AM

By the way, I agree with wanmichael than Blackstone doesn't know their head from their backside when interpreting results.

I use Dyson Analysis, who contracts out to Cat SOS labs for the analysis and he interprets the results. I trust the CAT folks a lot more and Terry Dyson is legendary on BITOG.

Butler CAT, who is a site sponsor on BITOG, now offers Antimony in their analysis pack which is useful since the oil companies are going to that (among other things) to replace ZDDP.

RockyMtnTitan

10-26-2005, 07:55 PM

Brons.....so, what do these other companies you mentioned charge for oil analysis? Thanks...

Brons2

10-27-2005, 07:32 PM

Butler Catepillar Labs charges $12.

http://www.butler-machinery.com/services/product_support_oil.asp

RockyMtnTitan

10-27-2005, 09:01 PM

Thanks...just sent them an email.

del-perro

11-01-2005, 05:02 PM

Dino oil sample.
Not sure if this is how you post these . . . JPG file

Blue_Water_Rush

11-02-2005, 07:51 AM

electricjohn

11-02-2005, 06:07 PM

Has anyone gotten results yet of the M1 EP 15,000 mi. synthetic? I'm curious to know if there is improvement over the old M1. Also, I was at wally world and saw that they were sold out of the M1 5w30 but they had the 10w30. I held off at this point pending further info on test results in this thread. I still am considering the Castrol GC, but have not seen any results as of yet for that (the new M05 batch) I still have about 1,000 mi. to go before my next oil change. If you look on pg. 7, I have a 7500 mile sample, which was posted by Jet Tech. The 3750 mile report is the midpoint. Wear dropped off nice after the midpoint, which I was hoping would happen soon. Anyway I went with GC this time because I did not know wear would drop like it did. After I got the report back I was quite happy with the M1-EP. The first 7500 mile sample was the old M1. Still have a long way to go with the GC-M04.

RockyMtnTitan

11-02-2005, 07:14 PM

Squid and I are also running the M1 EP 5W-30. I'm pulling a sample at 5K (about 2K to go) to send in...hoping it fares better than my first sample with the regular M1.

Just installed a prefilter on my AFE filter, hoping it will cut down the silicon levels some.

May try the Castrol GC once I see a couple reports on the M05 batch.

Blue_Water_Rush

11-03-2005, 07:38 AM

TheSquid

11-03-2005, 05:09 PM

RockyMtnTitan

11-03-2005, 06:22 PM

May try the Castrol GC once I see a couple reports on the M05 batch.
I assume this is the Syntec in the black container, I saw the 5w30 in pep boys, but wal-mart was way cheaper, and had the 5 qt. jugs (not many though}. I couldn't find on the qt. container the batch code. Where is it listed?

I believe it's on the bottom of the quart containers...kinda hard to see, as I recall. I may be wrong...as it's been a while since I looked at one.

Blue_Water_Rush

11-04-2005, 07:39 AM

Well I wound up getting the M1 EP 10w30, since the 5w30 is almost impossible to find at this point. Originally, I bought the only 6 qt. case of the 5w30 they had at pep boys, and it was $41.00, then I saw the 10-30 at wally $25.00 for a 5 qt. jug. I'm taking the 5-30 back and going with the 10-30. the total savings over pep boys was $12.00. I also went with the SuperTech 75w140 gear lube. I did get the Fram Sure drain kit at pep boys though. It was 10.00
The part no. for the Titan is SD-3 if anyone is interested.

TheSquid

11-04-2005, 04:55 PM

Trogdor

11-04-2005, 05:02 PM

I just recently changed the oil filter after approximately 5K miles on M1 EP 5w-30 and the oil was dark. Is this normal?

kcchief_fan

11-04-2005, 07:12 PM

The first report at 1439 miles was with stock filter and oil. The second report is Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W/40 and a Puralator PureOne Filter. I currently have Mobil 1 0W/40 with Nissan Filter.

Blue_Water_Rush

11-05-2005, 06:47 PM

Just did my 3rd oil change at 10,500 mi. got the sample ready to mail off on Monday (looks pretty dirty for only 3,000 mi.) re-filled with M1 EP 10-30. Also changed the rear oil. The level was OK, and I just found out it was synthetic oil from factory. The oil looked fairly clean, but there was some black deposits in it. I re-filled with SuperTech 75W-140. It takes about 2 1/8 qts. (4 1/4 pts.) Make sure if you do this to clean the drain and fill plugs good and coat the last half of the threads with silicone RTV (I used Permatex Grey).

Blue_Water_Rush

11-10-2005, 09:35 PM

TitanPsycho

11-22-2005, 11:42 AM

Anyone have a sample on the Rotella T Synthetic 5w40? I'm using it currently so I guess I'll have to post my results.

wanmichael

11-24-2005, 01:45 AM

Anyone have a sample on the Rotella T Synthetic 5w40? I'm using it currently so I guess I'll have to post my results.
I was about to ask that as well...that oil is quite impressive. Although a fuel economy loss may be noticed on smaller engines, it probably won't be as significant on a large V8 like this.

Shyster54

11-24-2005, 02:20 AM

So...is there anything approaching a consensus on the best oil for the Titan?

Brons2

12-11-2005, 08:33 PM

OK Bretheren,
here's my first oil sample test results. You Tech. Gurus are welcome to offer your opinions. This was my second drain since buying this truck, and this is the conventional Pennzoil 10w30 after 3,000 mi. I am now on the M1 EP 10w30. How long would you guys recommend before I pull another sample for testing? 3,000 mi.? 5,000 mi.? I hope you can read it. I scanned it after printing and saved as jpeg, because posting it as a pdf didn't allow viewing it.

Looks like this oil got beat down to a 20wt, but it didn't seem to hurt your wear numbers any. I had a similar experience with some dealer bulk 10w30. This engine likes a thicker xW-30 and will shear the SM/GF-4 OTC dino oils.

If you can pull a sample of the M1 EP without draining it, I would do so at 4,000 miles and if the viscosity is ok run it to 5,000-6,000 or so.

I'd recommend the 0w-40 weight of Mobil 1 over the 10W30 EP for long drains. It will shear back to a mid to upper 30wt, which is what this engine likes. The M1EP 10w30 is only 10.5 cSt.

[edit] Well, viewing the other M1EP analysis in this thread seems to indicate that it will hold viscosity, so it's probably safe to go 7500 miles. I'd still pull a midpoint sample.

Brons2

12-24-2005, 12:17 AM

Well thought I'd give the Schaeffer's 7000 Synblend a try. It cost $42 for a 12 quart case of it. It is 11.0 cSt at 100c, yet only 47-52 at 40c. Hopefully good for my short 2.7 mile commute. I'm going to run it for 4K and take a sample. If good I will run to a max of 6mos regardless of mileage.

MSDS:
http://schaefferoil.com/msdspdf/701.pdf
Shows small amount of esters and ZDDP, 60-70% hydrocracked base, 20-30% PAO and 10-20% proprietary adds.

Technical Data:
http://schaefferoil.com/datapdf/701.pdf

Brons2

12-26-2005, 11:32 PM

here's the latest for me...copied this verbatim from my posting on BITOG

Not too pleased with this, seems my analysis is going the wrong direction. This was Formula Shell 5w30 with slightly less than half of a bottle of VSOT in it. (the other half was used in the last OCI). I replaced the factory air filter with a Wix about 1000 miles into this OCI as the Si was high on the last sample.

Last interval was roughly the same, other than I used slightly more than half the bottle of VSOT.

Driving consists of mainly short trip, 2.7 miles to and from work 4 days a week.

Oil was in service for 4 months in temps ranging from 108F to 21F in Austin, Texas.

Results separated by commas. 1st (latest) 15103mi/3043 on sample, 2nd 12060/4037 on sample, 3rd 8043/3400 on sample, 4th 999/999 on sample. All analysis done by Holt Cat SOS labs in San Antonio

Al 2,4,3,6
Ca 1583,2062,1782,2021
Cr 1,1,1,1
Cu 2,5,2,21
Fe 10,6,8,14
Pb 5,5,2,7
Mg 52,62,7,11
Mo 162,257,105,1
P 788,1013,724,924
K not tested,2,0,0
Si 12,20,14,110
Na 4,4,1,3
Sn 2,1,1,4
Zn 888,1151,860,1046

Soot 0,0,0,0
Oxidation 52,56,28,0
Nitration 65,54,49,19
Sulfation 51,33,17,0
H20 N,N,N,N
A/F N,N,N,N
Fuel N,N,N,N
V100 9.4, 9.8, 9.2, 9.3
TBN <not tested>, 4.0, 4.0, 7.0

I have gone with Schaeffer's 7000 5w30 currently. It's thinner at 40c yet thicker at 100c. This engine in my application tends to beat down dino oils to 20wts within 3 mos/3K miles.

Thoughts?

Trogdor

12-29-2005, 01:19 PM

Hey all ... about to change out the M1 EP 5w-30. It's been in about 7K miles at this point and I'm just getting paranoid. That said, I'm not planning on sending in a sample.

I just bought M1 Truck & SUV 5w-40 from Wally world. It was around $32 for 7 quarts (one five qt jug plus 2 1 qt jugs). Anyone used this stuff yet? I figured I'd give it a whirl for around 5K miles...

Edit:

Just found posts that say this stuff doesn't work so well - specifically from JT way back on titantalk.com ... anyone been able to find the EP 5w-30 or M1 0w-40? I can't find it here in the ATL and it looks like I'm going to take this stuff back to Wal-Mart. What about the regular M1 5w-30?

Brons2

12-29-2005, 03:11 PM

If you're using regular M1, I'd use the 10w30 over the 5w30. IMHO.

Trogdor

01-07-2006, 10:39 AM

I found some M1 0w-40 at Advanced Auto Parts ... couldn't find the Castrol 0w-30.

JayDee

01-07-2006, 01:30 PM

Has ANYONE done a Titan UOA on the 0w30 Castrol?

EricCartmann

01-25-2006, 02:37 PM

Brons2

01-25-2006, 02:55 PM

Dam... the thing I hate about these oil threads us that they go on forever..

I read this thread from top to bottom and there is still no conclusion what is the best oil.

As for me, I have never done any type of oil analsys and never go overboard on oil.

I ran all my past vehicles with all different type of oil brands (but have always used 5w-30 as suggested by manufaturer). I only changed my oil every 5k and have never used full-syn. I think it is much more important to keep the oil fresh as oppose to go longer with full syn. Doing my routine above I have never had engine problems in any of my vehicles. All these vehicles were always in tip top shape when I sold at around 100k miles more.

Bottom line is this subject is overkill and that you will have problems with other stuff way way before you have problems with the engine.

Oil analysis has other uses than just figuring out the best oil, in my case it alerted me to a marginally functioning air filter on my Titan that I would not have otherwise replaced as it only had about 12K miles on it and hadn't looked too dirty on the previous check. It can also alert you to coolant leaks, and help you establish a maintenance baseline (on my old truck, much longer than the 3K I had stuck to previously, even using cheap dino, thus saving me money).

As for what's the best oil for your application, you can use some of the better reports here as a baseline and go from there, running an analysis or two to verify it works well with your driving conditions.

One thing I would say to you on your maintenance regimen: The Titan's engine will shear a dino 5w30 to a 5w20 in 3500 miles or so, according to my analysis, so I would stick to 3K if you are using inexpensive dino. My $0.02.

EricCartmann

01-25-2006, 03:14 PM

Oil analysis has other uses than just figuring out the best oil, in my case it alerted me to a marginally functioning air filter on my Titan that I would not have otherwise replaced as it only had about 12K miles on it and hadn't looked too dirty on the previous check. It can also alert you to coolant leaks, and help you establish a maintenance baseline (on my old truck, much longer than the 3K I had stuck to previously, even using cheap dino, thus saving me money).

As for what's the best oil for your application, you can use some of the better reports here as a baseline and go from there, running an analysis or two to verify it works well with your driving conditions.

One thing I would say to you on your maintenance regimen: The Titan's engine will shear a dino 5w30 to a 5w20 in 3500 miles or so, according to my analysis, so I would stick to 3K if you are using inexpensive dino. My $0.02.

Thanks for the info. Good stuff. I don't want to change every 3k so I think I will go full syn and change every 7k since that has seem to work for some people.. conensus for syn seems to be Mobile 1 - 5w30 - m1.

BigVic

02-19-2006, 10:40 AM

Brons2

02-19-2006, 01:48 PM

Wow that is pretty terrible. It looks like one of your rings is scraping the cylinder wall.

The one thing I can think of offhand is you got some Katrina Mobil 1. There was a batch that went out that didn't meet API specs, or so it is alledged on Bobistheoilguy.com.

I would DEFINITELY recommend contacting Terry Dyson at Dyson Analysis. He has been professionally interpreting oil analysis for many years. For $20 he will read your report and give you his opinion and suggest a course of rectification for your high chromium and iron.

Dyson Analysis is an independent and proprietary lubricant analysis and testing consult service. For professional needs contact us for pricing and testing availability.

Contact:

Terry Dyson Analysis
3679 CR 2184
Greenville, TX 75402
903 883 4661 or
dysonanalysis@netzero.com

Also, have you posted this on Bobistheoilguy.com? If not, can I post it over there?

BigVic

02-19-2006, 05:53 PM

Brons2

Thanks for the reply...yes, you can surely post it wherever you like...I have not posted it at BITOG, I am just so depressed right now :( ...thanks for your input/concern.

I will contact Dyson ASAP tomorrow.

Should I post it somewhere else here on the forums so people can see it, or is that a no-no?

Blue_Water_Rush

02-22-2006, 11:51 PM

Here's my 2nd analysis from a sample taken at 14,500 mi. and 4,000 mi. on M1EP 10-30. It looks pretty darn good. I'm happy and will go another 3,000 or less before I pull another sample. I probably should change the oil filter though. The previous analysis shown to the right of the universal averages is from my 2nd oil change using conventional pennsoil 5-30, so you can see the electrolyte content is really the only thing that is significantly higher due to the additives in the M1. My K&N 77 is working great, and I have quie a way to go before I have to recharge it. Life is good.

Brons2

02-23-2006, 12:05 AM

Nice wear numbers for 4,000 miles, especially lead, but I wouldn't go another 3000 miles on this oil. The viscosity is barely above 20wt at 59.7 SUS, the flashpoint is down to 355 and the fuel dilution is 1.0%.

Your engine seems to be putting a lot of extra fuel into the oil, which is causing the viscosity and flash points to be depressed. Do you do a lot of short trips? Did you drain the oil when it was cold?

OTOH...several of the oils I have used have sheared back into the 20wt range and it hasn't had any terribly bad effects on wear numbers.

IMHO, maybe try another 1,500 miles and drain/resample? With warmer weather coming, fuel dilution may be less of a problem going forward. Minus the dilution, this oil definitely has life left in it.

Oh and, with insoluables at 0.2, you don't need to change the filter...ALTHOUGH you will have to top off the oil after doing so which may help with the viscosity.

electricjohn

02-23-2006, 06:31 AM

Well, this sucks :( ...very bad oil analysis and self explanatory (see attached .doc). 8O

I took the sample properly as per Blackstone Labs instructions. I worked in a lab for 10 years (HPLC/GC), so I know about sampling techniques. This sample is Mobil 1 5W30/Nissan filter, did change myself.

Really bummed :cry: ...will send another in ~2500 miles...now running German Castrol 0W30 with a Nissan filter.

The truck runs perfect, no valvetrain noise, smoke, etc. I do not tow or run the truck really hard. Getting decent milege (13 city, 17 hwy avg), truck seems perfect.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.[/b]

Was not able to download your report. The computer at work will not let me. I had high wear numbers till about 11,500 miles with mobil 1. I switched to the EP(5w-30 both times) after that and the numbers dropped considerably. Now running GC 0w-30 with about 5800 miles on the oil so far. Will change at 7500 miles which will give me 26,000 on motor. If your truck has low miles(under 10,000) I would not sweat it yet, they should improve. I was not happy with the old M1.

Brons2

02-23-2006, 06:15 PM

Was not able to download your report. The computer at work will not let me. I had high wear numbers till about 11,500 miles with mobil 1. I switched to the EP(5w-30 both times) after that and the numbers dropped considerably. Now running GC 0w-30 with about 5800 miles on the oil so far. Will change at 7500 miles which will give me 26,000 on motor. If your truck has low miles(under 10,000) I would not sweat it yet, they should improve. I was not happy with the old M1.

BigVic's report was exceptionally horrible on cylinder (iron) and ring (chromium) wear. Oddly, other than that it didn't look too bad. I'll transcribe the numbers from his Word document:

Wear Metals
Aluminum 14
Chromium 115
Iron 348
Copper 6
Lead 3
Tin 2
Nickel 1
Silver 0
Titanium 0

Additives
Manganese 3
Moly 76
Boron 66
Calcium 2092
Magnesium 11
Phosphorus 582
Zinc 660
Barium 0

Contaminates
Silicon 14
Potassium 1
Sodium 3
Fuel <0.5
Antifreeze 0
Water 0
Insoluables 0.4

Physical characteristics
SUS@210F 60.1 (SAE 30)
Flashpoint 395

BigVic

02-23-2006, 07:47 PM

Brons2 is correct. My results were terrible. :( Go to the ugly, long post..

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003286

8O

and/or see if this attachment works.

electricjohn

02-24-2006, 07:37 AM

WOW, I had numbers like 31(iron) and 4 (crom). I had no idea what you meant by high till I saw the numbers this morning. How many miles on your truck? I would go see my dealer about those numbers(just for the record) and be sure there is some kind of hardcopy to show your concern. Bronz, thanks for posting the numbers, my work computer treat attachments like pop-up's and won't let them through.

rtapia

03-06-2006, 07:32 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/rtapia/Titanoilanalysis.jpg

jrw396

03-09-2006, 05:53 PM

18,677 mile oil change with 5K using Super Tech.
Good results. Could have run longer.
Used Fram filter, but only because I didn't have Nissan available. Fram did a good job though.

Brons2

03-09-2006, 06:20 PM

Brons2

03-09-2006, 06:49 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/rtapia/Titanoilanalysis.jpg

rtapia,

Excellent, excellent report. Iron wear less than 2ppm/1K miles, low bearing wear, good viscosity.

Check your air filter though.

jrw396

03-10-2006, 07:05 AM

BigVic

03-14-2006, 07:58 AM

Brons2

03-14-2006, 10:18 AM

18,677 mile oil change with 5K using Super Tech.
Good results. Could have run longer.
Used Fram filter, but only because I didn't have Nissan available. Fram did a good job though.

Your iron wear is high-ish for 5K miles, and the oil has sheared to a 20wt. Weak additive pack; no moly, boron or magnesium (residual numbers <10 are from previous oils).

I don't know why Blackstone is so excited about these numbers. The wear numbers other than iron are good, but with the low vis and weak add pack, I'd be using something else. No offense, but Blackstone's comments aren't worth the paper they are printed on, IMHO. Terry Dyson gives a better picture.
Thanks for your input.
Do you think that the iron wear number could be from the filter?
Is this the same Terry Dyson that works for Blackstone?

Nah, the filter is not the cause of your iron wear, although I am very suspect of Fram filters with their cardboard end caps. I actually like the SuperTech filters better than the Frams as they are made by Champion Labs and have METAL endcaps and decent quality construction, all for $2.07. I am running one now! Anyways, poor filration usually shows up as higher insolubles.

Terry Dyson is located in East Texas and does not work directly for Blackstone. He has partnered with Blackstone to offer additional in-depth analysis, but is not directly in their employ.

Brons2

03-14-2006, 10:23 AM

Well, here's another (bad) UOA from Blackstone, and verified by another person who works in a lab and posts on BITOG.

Still pretty bad...only 606 miles on this oil...waiting on Terry Dyson's report before going to Nissan....this really $ucks. :roll:

Here's the LONG thread at BITOG:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003286

Well, it does seem to be trending down. Maybe stick with short intervals until it returns to normal. I'd try running some Auto-RX through there once the levels stabilize.

Perhaps a thicker oil would be in order until this is resolved. The manual in my 04 allows the use of 10w40, this might be a good idea, along with some VSPOT, in order to raise moly and ZDDP levels.

If you have a dialog with Terry, definitely follow his recommendations.

BigVic

03-14-2006, 12:02 PM

Thanks Brons2...yes, I've been in contact with Terry...waiting for his results/interpretation on a sample I sent him...that will be a total of 3 on this UOA, plus the last one, and it's off to talk to Mr. Nissan :evil:

RBsTitan

03-17-2006, 06:23 PM

Well here's the data sheet. Next time I'm going further trying 7K.

Brons2

03-18-2006, 12:55 AM

nice report. I'd suggest trying the M1 Extended Peformance if you are going to go beyond 7000.

Blue_Water_Rush

04-18-2006, 10:13 AM

My previous sample with M1 EP 10w30 was taken at 4,000 miles, and this one is at 6,250 miles, total engine miles at 16,822. This report looks good, and the fuel in the oil is about gone. Should I take it to 8,500 miles? 9,000 miles? Blackstone thinks so. What about the viscosity & flashpoint. I want to get as much as I can out of this oil, but for the next change I have M1 0w40 (not the EP).

Opinions welcome!

Brons2

04-18-2006, 11:16 AM

Iron increased only 2ppm in the last 2250 miles, that's good.

Lead is up 3ppm but that could be within the margin of error. 4ppm is still not very much for over 6200 miles, that's less than 1ppm/1Kmiles.

Viscosity is on the lower end of the scale but doesn't appear to be hurting anything, judging by your wear numbers. Flashpoint looks great.

Insoluables are good up to 0.6.

Keep going!! 8500 seems doable. Or do a filter change and go for 10K :D

Blue_Water_Rush

04-18-2006, 03:21 PM

Thanks Brons, I like this oil. I have not had to add one drop in almost 6,500 miles. Heck, I don't even think I'll replace the oil filter... I'll save it for my next change. I have 7 qts. of M1 0w40 for my next change. Do you think thats a good choice since viscosity is barely hangin' with this present oil? I don't think they make the EP in a 40 wt.

On a side note, I noticed your post count never goes above 28 (lurker status), though you've been a member since 2004. What's up with that?

got_titan

05-10-2006, 02:19 PM

ive been using chevron supreme 10w-30 and have been getting great results. my truck is supercharged, k&n oil filter, volant cold air. my truck sees heavy ideling and all city driving with tons of stop and go..heres the report....analize away...?

Shiftyb

05-10-2006, 03:15 PM

Is your name really John Hancock?

TheSquid

06-03-2006, 12:15 AM

Well I guess I'll be keeping the ultra filter oil filter and it looks like the Mobil 1 15,000 mile extended may actually be good to 15,000 miles for my application but with that said, I'm not really sure if I'm comfortable with going that long. I guess time will tell.:rolleyes:

XRING600

06-08-2006, 11:30 AM

From what I read nobody is using the Mobile 1 Synthetic 10w30. There are 5w30 users along with with other blends I see. I bought 7 quarts of the 10w30 today and would like comments on it.

Thanks.

kcchief_fan

06-12-2006, 09:51 PM

I had no problems with 10W30 on the sample reports, BUT I had what sounded like chatter from the valves. I use 0W-40 Mobil 1 or the 0W-50 European if I can find it.

electricjohn

06-13-2006, 07:33 AM

Got my report back on the German Castol Syntech. I was happy with everything but iron which jumped up to 28ppm. Will post when I learn how to, could someone tell me how. I have it as a pdf(pfd?) file in my e-mail right now.

jauten1

07-11-2006, 03:51 PM

I will have to see if I can find what I did with my most recent report.... I wanted to test the claims that Mobil 1 EP could go 15000 miles so I ran their oil for that long and sent in the sample... Blackstone said I could have kept it in the engine for several thousand more miles....

jauten1

07-17-2006, 04:34 PM

Attached is my results from running for 15,000 miles using Mobil 1 EP 5w-30...

TheSquid

07-18-2006, 12:11 AM

got_titan

07-18-2006, 12:52 AM

wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

jauten1

07-19-2006, 02:30 PM

That's strange how your TBN was 2.5 after 15,000 miles but mine was 1.5 after 9000 miles.Your iron was higher at 18 but I bet that's because your truck still had low miles on the engine when you started and still breaking in.

This tells me that everyone needs to do an analysis and not go by other peoples results because different trucks, environment, and driving styles will give different results. Thanks for sharing.

Did you use the extended performance Mobil 1?
That may account for your TBN being lower than mine.

Part of the reason I ran for 15,000 miles was to see if Mobil's advertising of 15,000 miles was believable...

Guess now I have my answer.
It should be mentioned that I don't drive my truck all that hard. I do give it some go every so often just to let it know whow is boss though...
I was also running with a K&N oil filter...

TheSquid

07-19-2006, 11:15 PM

Did you use the extended performance Mobil 1?
That may account for your TBN being lower than mine.

Part of the reason I ran for 15,000 miles was to see if Mobil's advertising of 15,000 miles was believable...

Guess now I have my answer.
It should be mentioned that I don't drive my truck all that hard. I do give it some go every so often just to let it know whow is boss though...
I was also running with a K&N oil filter...

Yup, I'm running the Mobil 1 15,000 mile extended oil and have since it came out. Anyway, I'm going to go to around 11,000 this time so we'll see how it does. Did you add any oil during that 15,000 miles?

got_titan

07-19-2006, 11:21 PM

the k&n oil filters have showed to be very good filters!!

jauten1

07-22-2006, 12:09 AM

I ended up adding about 1qt of regular mobil 1 5w-30....
Yeah I started using the K&N filters when I had my Acura RSX Type-S, they had the oil filter in a really hard place to get to so the nut on the end of the filter made it easier to get off.... I have been using them since then. :)

Outlaw

08-10-2006, 12:00 PM

TheSquid

08-10-2006, 12:11 PM

I've been watching this thread for a little bit now. I gues it's time to ask a few questions!

Why is everybody hung up on using Mobil 1 ep in their trucks? It's only good for 15,000mi. And some of you seem to question that :)

Why doesn't anybody here talk about Amsoil? They are the pioneers of extended drain intervals. I've been running 5w-30 in my wifes Frontier at 25k - one year, with no problems whatsoever. And will be changing to Amsoil with my Titan.

Mobil 1 is like a "fake " synthetic. It's only around 40%. just enough for them to advertise it as a syn, by law. The new EP is closer to 60%, but still not a full, true synthetic oil.

I guess because all the Amsoil advocates never produce any oil analysis for us to see. I was one of the first to try the Mobil 1 15,000 mile oil and I know I'm the first to take it past 7000 miles and actually have an analysis done. I'm now running it past 10,000 miles and until someone can show me a real world oil analysis from some other manufacturer that shows their oil to work better longer I will continue to use what works for me and my truck.

M4ck

08-23-2006, 01:06 PM

Hi guys. Just want to let you all know that Blackstone-Labs.com has decided to sponsor the site due to this thread. There is a special link for you guys to order your kits from so they can see how many people are getting their kits due to reading about it here. Please use the following link when you need to order test kits http://blackstone-labs.com/free_test_titan.html (http://www.clubtitan.org/adserver/adclick.php?log=no&bannerid=16&zoneid=&source=&dest=http%3A%2F%2Fblackstone-labs.com%2Ffree_test_titan.html)
I have this link added to the first post of this thread also.
thanks guys.
M4ck

jauten1

08-23-2006, 01:24 PM

dbowhntr

09-06-2006, 11:10 AM

Here is a sample of amsoil at 5 k with 54k on the titan. Let me know what you think
Thanks
Andy

jauten1

09-06-2006, 11:25 AM

Here is a sample of amsoil at 5 k with 54k on the titan. Let me know what you think
Thanks
Andy

Looks really good!

I am surprised that the TBN is that low though for AMSOIL after just 5k miles...
What are your driving habits like? Do you punch it all the time or do you baby your truck?

I am interested to see what it would be if you go 7k next time.

dbowhntr

09-06-2006, 01:17 PM

Looks really good!

I am surprised that the TBN is that low though for AMSOIL after just 5k miles...
What are your driving habits like? Do you punch it all the time or do you baby your truck?

I am interested to see what it would be if you go 7k next time.
Just normal driving with most of it to and from work and that is 25 miles one way. I was kinda surprised with that as well. We will see what 7 k looks like real soon as I am at 5k right now again. Iron and chromium looked really good though.

wurk4fordboughttitan

09-06-2006, 04:04 PM

What filter are you using?

dbowhntr

09-06-2006, 04:19 PM

What filter are you using?
Nissan filter

wurk4fordboughttitan

09-06-2006, 04:52 PM

Good choice, it explains part of the good report. Folks have also gotten good results with the Fram toughguard (horribly made, but does a good job) and the Purolator PureOne.

jauten1

09-06-2006, 05:02 PM

Don't know about it's use on the Titan, but I always heard good things about the Mobil1 oil filters when used on the Acura RSX...
I am a bit partial to the K&N oil filters...

I guess I will know soon enough how well a Wix filter works... Last oil report I did was for 15k with Mobil1 EP and a K&N filter... This time I am planning 17k with Mobil1 EP and because I ran out of K&N filters just before my oil change I picked up a Wix at the local store...

Pat

09-25-2006, 11:26 PM

Here's my first oil change with Amsoil in this vehicle after 5000 miles of use. I thought by now the silicon and other initial break-in metals would be down to normal. I'm using the Amsoil oil and air filter. I'll ride this out to 10K then sample and change it out.

Outlaw

10-21-2006, 01:07 AM

Good luck with Amsoil Pat! I ran 5w-30 to 10K in my wife's Frontier (2004 with 37k on the odo) and the results came back horrible.

This was my first automotive expeirence with Amsoil and I'm not impressed to say the least .
:thumbsdown-big:

wurk4fordboughttitan

10-21-2006, 03:10 PM

From what I've observed, most of the signs of break-in don't disappear until 20,000 miles.

TITAN57

10-21-2006, 07:01 PM

from a test on Amsoil that went 14,000 miles in an LS1........this was the
most interesting finding IMO
-
“…………… The main thing that stands out on this, our final Amsoil sample, is the ridiculous viscosity. This 5W30 oil has now thickened out to a 15W40 -- argue whether it matters if you like, but we believe engine builders spec an oil for a reason, and this oil is far, far thicker now than intended for the LS1."

Outlaw

10-22-2006, 10:50 AM

What really confuses me about Amsoil, is the fact that they are a multi-billion dollar company. How can they advertise their oil can handle high miles when an analysis says otherwise??
There are people out there that are just doing what Amsoil says without an analysis. Amsoil would be replacing engines left and right if it didn't work.
Of course in the case of my wife's Fronty, I emailed Amsoil with Blackstone's results. Amsoil tried to tell me that the sample must have been tampered with. Theres no way their oil could have deteriorated that far!

You tell me..

wurk4fordboughttitan

10-22-2006, 12:39 PM

Use a Purolator PureOne or Fram Toughguard filter. Change them according to the severe schedule and top off the oil. You can get pretty close. The two filters I mentioned are high filtration.

EricNg

11-01-2006, 11:48 PM

Engine Make/Model: 2006 Nissan Titan V8 5.6L
Oil interval: 3006 miles
Engine mileage: 21058 miles on odometer
Oil/oil filter used: 5.5 qts GC 0w-30 Green SL/ 1qt GC0w-30 Gold SL & Napa Gold
Makeup oil: 0.25 qts(switched out Wix oil filter to a Napa Gold after 200 miles of last oil change due to oil filter leaking)
Oil lab: Blackstone
Oil samples was taken on 10-30-06

The left is the most recent and the right is from my last sample:
10-31-06 vs 5-24-06(11,634 miles odometer/2569 miles on oil)
Aluminum: 1 / 2
Chromium: 0 / 1
Iron: 3 / 6
Copper: 2 / 2
Lead: 1 / 2
Tin: 0 /0
Moly: 1 / 75
Nickel: 0 / 0
Manganese:0 / 0
Silver: 0 / 0
Titanium: 0 / 0
Potassium:0 / 0
Boron: 0 / 38
Silicon: 19 / 12
Sodium: 3 / 8
Calcium: 2736 / 2173
Magnesium:209 / 11
Phosphorus:851 / 571
Zinc: 964 / 672
Barium: 0 / 0

TBN: 5.7 / 4.8
SUS viscosity 210F: 65.5 / 59.1
Flashpoint: 385F / 390F
Fuel: TR / 0
Antifreeze: 0 / 0
Water: 0 / 0
Insolubles: 0.1 / TR

Blackstone's comments: Everything looks a little better in the second sample from your Nissan. Nothing was really out of line last sample, but we always like to see lower wear, especially after a longer oil run. The low wear is a very good sign that this engine is free of any mechanical problems at this point and is well past wear-in. We did find a trace of fuel in the oil. This didn't affect the viscosity and will likely disappear next time, since it's well below our problem level. The TBN was strong at 5.7, showing lots of active additive left. Silicon was a bit high, so we suggest checking the air filter.

My comments: For this oci, im using 6.7 qts GC 0w-30 Gold and using a pureone oil filter. That darn silicon got me angry. Maybe i should go with a pureone air filter and see how that goes?

blacksmith37

12-13-2006, 11:00 AM

I don't know why you "kids" mess with somethiing that works.
I got my first and probably , only Blackstone report today; all results were great using Castroil 5W30 and Fram filters for 40,000, (about 4000/ change). Having worked in the Amoco R&D for 30 yr I had a good idea what to expect. Amoco ran standard motor oils for 50,000 miles in fleets ( only make-up) with excellent results. They were wondering if they should put out a synthetic to compete with Mobile 1. They couldn't think of a reasonable improvement so did not make a synthetic for the consumer.
All my results down to Ca were mostly 0 to 2ppm( Fe 4ppm) except Si was 6ppm. That much Si could have come from the glass jar I caught the sample in.
I learned that Castrol does not add MoS2 ( moly disulfide ) and does not use magnesium sulfonate for alkalinity. I thought of adding some of my stash of MoS2 , but the results show zero wear so what would be the use ?

kellyj00

02-08-2007, 12:06 PM

I read this whole thread only to find out there's no better oil than any other?

Even the cheapo super tech performed well!

electricjohn

02-14-2007, 01:26 PM

Here is my latest. All have already been posted except 26,546 mile and 34,000 mile. Does anyone have any idea of what could be up with the high iron readings. Most of my trips are 10 mile runs to work and 3 mile trips to play basketball, which I know are not enough to get the oil up to tempature, but do you think this could be contributing to my high iron. I change the filter at the halfway point and add some make-up oil at that time.

JetTech

03-05-2007, 07:19 PM

Hi John,

After looking at that oil sample I would say it's probably because you're short tripping it. With those small trips, even to work, it might be time to reduce the length of time between oil changes. I'm assuming you're using the GC 0W-30 of which is a great oil, but I haven't seen an oil yet that does well with short tripping. How about trying 5K OCI's and see what that does. I don't get to concerned with iron, but lead I sure do and I see your lead readings are a little higher as well. Have you decided on a plan yet as to what you're going to do?

TitanBlue

03-05-2007, 08:46 PM

My first change was M1 5W30, then I switched to M1 0W40 for 2 winter changes. Switched back to M1 5w30 last week, for good most likely. One oil for both my vehicles, and it is available at Sam's. The 5W30 shows up more on the Pressure Gage, scared me at first. Never saw it go High before. I'm using the WIX Filter everytime. My last change was a little earlier than planned.

I really am pleased with the 0W40, but not sure it would be as good for Summers at 95-100 degree and with Performance tuning the Titan. ??? Opinions on this please, especilly JetTech. What was its advantage? Startup?

Thanks. :)

wurk4fordboughttitan

03-06-2007, 12:49 AM

The fuel dilution is a short trip sign. That would have been the first thing I'd ask you if I didn't get the story first. But you already answered it for me.

The Cure (and not the band):

1. Stop taking short trips.... OR

2. Start the engine 3-4 minutes before a trip shorter than 15 minutes.... OR

3. Use Xw20 motor oil in your fridged weather but swap back to Xw30 for summer.... OR

4. Shorten your drain intervals to 5,000 miles.... OR

5. Engineer a way to heat the block and/or oil prior to startup....

Personally, I would do #3, #4, and #5 with a quality dino oil like motorcraft or cheaper synthetic like Penz Platinum. PP is $18 for 5 quarts at Wally World right now.

Due to the way oil grades work. 5w20 is actually thinner than 0w30 at room temp and anything below. Actually, 0w20 Mobil would be ideal.

Your main problem is the fact that it will take 15-20 minutes just for your oil to warm up in your winter weather. This means fuel is condensing on the COLD cylinder walls at startup in addition to the oil being as thick as slag. Quality synthetics lessen this, but it still remains thick. Consider a block heater.

Also take note that all the bad UOAs crossed through winter weather. None of the other drains had cold weather jaunts. Warm oil will aleviate much of this. My suggestion is a dip stick oil heater. They are $80 to $100 and you can put them on a timer if you always leave at a certain time in the morning.

Final thoughts:
Get a block/oil heater. Change to Xw20 oil for October through the middle of March reguardless of mileage and use shorter drains. Problem solved.

P.S. To Everyone:

At startup temps
5w20 is thinner than 0w30
10w30 is thinner than 0w40

Unless you have a reason to run a 40 wieght oil (i.e. lengthy racing with 300 degree oil temps), a thirty wieght oil is ideal. People keep saying that Nissan engines like thick oil. There have been quite a few VK and VQ oil analysis that have been very positive with twenty weight oils. Why destroy your engine at startup with reduced flow in the winter? Use a 20 or 30 weight oil up North. Use a 30 or 40 weight in the South. The only reason I would use 40 in the south would be for a work truck that hauls and tows heavy loads all day. Not someone that has a few mods and does an occasional quick sprint.

A 0w40 oil is only thinner at startup in relation to other 40 weight oils.

electricjohn

03-07-2007, 07:49 AM

Reply to Dale (JT) and Ford,
I can not quit working just yet, or for the next 10 years or so, the short tripping must continue. I will take Ford's advice and warm the truck up a bit before the trips though. Ford, looking at the dates on the UOA's you caught a good point about the seasons with the high iron levels, so I will go to 5000 mile OCI's like both of you recommend if the oil is in the truck during the winter. I am going to take the M-1 EP that is in the motor now to 7500 again just to get wear numbers with this oil, then go to what I said about the 5000 mile OCI previously. Thanks for the input. It is good to hear from you again Dale. Ford, I went with the larger Pure One oil filter (14459?) and all seems normal, it is listed as a Mazda filter in the books, but the footprint is the same as the 14610. More later.

wurk4fordboughttitan

03-08-2007, 12:43 AM

The 14459 is what I use and the UOA's are stellar. I haven't done one in a while. The bypass settings and anti-drainback valve are the same specs. Shouldn't hurt a thing.

Knock on wood :D

electricjohn

03-08-2007, 07:34 AM

I plan on doing a UOA on the M-1 @ 5000 miles and change the filter, but will take the oil out to 7500. This interval will definetly take me through the summer when I do alot of towing. My OCI's usually last about 8 or 9 months. This way I can get some wear numbers @ 5000 to see if they drop off by more than 2/3's. If they don't, then I do not see the point of changing my OCI's.

HogHillbilly

03-08-2007, 11:28 AM

So I guess from reading all 22 pages.............GC 0W-30 and Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 are the best ones for living in the South ?

What about for the front and rear ends ?

tech12volt

03-08-2007, 01:28 PM

The 14459 is what I use and the UOA's are stellar. I haven't done one in a while. The bypass settings and anti-drainback valve are the same specs. Shouldn't hurt a thing.

Knock on wood :Dhey what does the hapeville plant make now?

wurk4fordboughttitan

03-08-2007, 09:30 PM

So I guess from reading all 22 pages.............GC 0W-30 and Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 are the best ones for living in the South ?

What about for the front and rear ends ?
From an earlier post:

My picks in no order:

Amsoil Severe Gear 75w140
Royal Purple Max-Gear 75w140
Redline Synthetic Gear 75w140
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear 75w140

The Royal Purple is amazing but hard to find. The Synslide additive is a combination of high moly and ester content from several chemists much more adept than me (hard to believe :D).

You can't go wrong with any of them. But you modified guys need to check often...

Just remember the front diff specs 80w90

hey what does the hapeville plant make now?
I build and sell houses now. No more cars for me.

TitanBlue

03-09-2007, 04:59 PM

5w20 is actually thinner than 0w30 at room temp and anything below. Actually, 0w20 Mobil would be ideal.

P.S. To Everyone:

At startup temps
5w20 is thinner than 0w30
10w30 is thinner than 0w40

At room temperature, that makes sense. That being 68*.

My understanding of reading oil weights is the first number is the viscosity comparable to a straight weight oil of same number (5 W = 5 Winter) at 32 degrees, and the second is the viscosity comparable to a straight weight oil of same number (20) at 200 degress or so. So; if this is right, wouldn't 5W20 be a bit thicker at 32 degrees than a 0W30 oil? Maybe it is the statement "At startup temps" that is my point of differance here?

Room temperature would be where the curves may cross as the viscosities are being compared. Multiweight oils simply control the amount they thin out when heated, much more than a straight weight could do. They don't thin as much, maintaining viscosity comparable to a heavier oil would be at the high temp.

Another more important question is, would a hotter plug (which Nissan list in the manual) be helpful for short tripping like 12 miles, to lower the fuel contamination in the oil?

Would it hurt anything on long highway trips?

wurk4fordboughttitan

03-10-2007, 03:02 AM

You can thank the SAE for complicating the system. Your statements would actually be the most logical way for them to do things but unfortunately that's not how it works.

The "W" ratings are only comparable for the same grade. A 0w30 is always thinner than a 5w30. A 0w30 also passes the criteria of a 5w30 and 10w30. It just exceeds the specifications. However, when you compare them to a 20 or 40 weight oil, things are completely different. All the folks using 0w40 Mobil 1 are wasting their money. Our engine shears it to a 10w30 rather quickly (first 1000 miles). The viscocity spread it too wide and it isn't as stable as other oils with a lower spread.

My current favortie (again) is castrol syntec 0w30 because of the low temperature capabilities and the fact that it is one butt hair from a 40 weight at opperating temperatures.

I'll be sure to make some proper clarifications in my oil faq when the time comes, I've already made some modifications, I just haven't uploaded it yet.

JetTech

03-13-2007, 08:48 AM

All the folks using 0w40 Mobil 1 are wasting their money. Our engine shears it to a 10w30 rather quickly (first 1000 miles). The viscocity spread it too wide and it isn't as stable as other oils with a lower spread.

I don't think I would go quite that far saying that the 0W-40 is a waste of money. True, it does typically shear to a 30W, but the oil samples that particular oil has produced are nothing shy of amazing. Large spread oils do tend to shear quicker then the ones with a 20 point gap, but the proof is in the samples, and M1 0W-40 is truly a worthy oil.

Also your "pick" list of rear end oils, are you getting your info from bob is the oil guy site or is this something you've come up with on your own?

wurk4fordboughttitan

03-13-2007, 03:07 PM

My pick list is based on availability and chemical content.

The RP and the Redline are heavy in moly. This is great for trucks that have a smaller rear end and lots of power. When the oil film breaks, it's the only thing that's going to save you and not become depleated. Mobil 1 is in the same boat, and I've heard good success stories from folks on several boards on the Amsoil.

I've heard of problems from people that have used Castrol, Valvoline (Shailey), Shaeffers, and Supertech "synthetic" gear lubes in simular applications. It's almost like they can't take the load, extra heat is generated from metal on metal, the gear lube thins out even more, and then you have a problem.

Nissan specifies GL-5 Synthetic for a reason. And thanks to the BBB, the definition of synthetic in the United States is rather broad.

Not all synthetics are equal.

Blue_Water_Rush

03-30-2007, 10:34 PM

Here's my latest analysis from about 1,000 miles ago. This is the 2nd analysis on M1 0w40 (which has been drained), and the wear metal numbers have skyrocketed. Rings and bearings are the producers here... Looks like I need to re-charge my K&N cone air filter. It is almost 2 years on the original charge. I have the kit and will do it this weekend. Ford, your imput based on this analysis would be appreciated. Maybe you could pin-point something else to look out for. The first analysis on this fill had the wear numbers pretty consistent with previous fills of M1 EP 5w30. I have changed the oil following the latest analysis back to the EP... so I have about 1,000 miles on this new oil. Following the air filter re-oil, I'll take it up to 3,000 miles and pull another sample, and hopefully the metals will drop. Thanks in advance to any and all oil guru 2 cents.

wurk4fordboughttitan

04-01-2007, 02:02 AM

Blue_Water_Rush

04-01-2007, 06:05 PM

It's mostly the affects of winter. You put the oil in presumably during spring and then ran it through winter.

The best practice, change to 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic right before you get freezing temps. Change again after the freezing temps go away to whatever you want... 5w30 10w30 0w40 10w40 75w145

j/k on the last one :D

Your problem was using a 6 month old 40 weight oil during winter on a truck not designed for a 40 weight when you live in Jersey. It's not the brand, it's the weight. The 10w30 Mobil 1 is thinner than 0w40 at startup. A 0w30 or 5w30 would serve you better during that season.

I kind of said the same thing above.

Give me some more info on your driving habits and what kind of trips you take.
OK... I live about 3 miles from my workplace (used to be 12 miles). During cold weather, I warm the engine up for 10 min. or so, and i'm off. I generally don't take the rpm's over 3 grand during acceleration, so I am not a leadfoot.
Only rarely do I accelerate hard. I've also added more weight recently (Oct. 06) in the form of procomp lift kit and 35" tires. The longest trip I have taken is about 200 miles one way. Other than that, I drive about 223 miles weekly (avg.) and living in Jersey it's pretty flat road driving. I do think I need to re-charge my K&N cone filter, which I'll probably order a 2nd filter to make the change quicker, then clean & re-oil the previous one just prior to the next needed change.

electricjohn

04-01-2007, 07:09 PM

Blue_Water_Rush

04-01-2007, 07:31 PM

I thought I was the only one with high wear numbers. Ford brought up a good point on my UOA's about winter driving. My bad reports always go through winter months. The oil that is in the motor now should not see any really cold weather, so I'll see what happens. I too do the short trips of 10 miles, but I do not warm the truck at all. I do take it very easy for the first 3 miles and by then the temp gauge is up to normal. I have an infra-red thermometer in my truck and I will let the truck idle for 10 minutes like you do and shoot the pan for the temperature just to see what that does to the oil temp. My UOA's are on page 21, post 208. All of my OCI's are 7500 miles, anything shown less is a midpoint sample only.
My wear numbers only recently went up. Last winter they were fine, but the 30 wt. oil I was using last year sheered back due to fuel present in the oil, most likely due to long warmup idling and short trips. So this past winter I was using a 0w40. Viscosity was OK but I think the increase in copper, lead, chrome & iron is from more dirt getting in the engine. I've used the same K&N CAI filter for almost 2 years. I think it's drying out. I just ordered a replacement filter ($47.95), so now I'll have a backup. Once I get it I'll pull the current one and swap it out, then I'll only re-charge the old one about a week prior to needing a change again. I love this CAI, it really keeps the engine clean other than the present situation. I simply waited a little to long to change it IMO. We'll see on the next analysis 3,000 miles from now. But Ford thinks the 40 wt. wasn't getting to the moving parts fast enough. I am back to the 5w30 anyway, so I don't have to worry about that I guess.

Here is my latest. All have already been posted except 26,546 mile and 34,000 mile. Does anyone have any idea of what could be up with the high iron readings. Most of my trips are 10 mile runs to work and 3 mile trips to play basketball, which I know are not enough to get the oil up to tempature, but do you think this could be contributing to my high iron. I change the filter at the halfway point and add some make-up oil at that time.
Your chromium and aluminum is good, low and consistent all the way through to your current mileage, so you're not getting a lot of wear in your rings/cylinder walls, whereas mine really went up.... but your iron is high, which is your crank. 18 ppm silicon is not too bad, but that should be lower. I would think your copper would be higher since the iron is up.. so I don't know... and I am no expert. Do you have the stock airbox and filter? How long have you been using your present Syntec oil? Curious..

wurk4fordboughttitan

04-01-2007, 10:02 PM

It's the short trips, even if you warm up. A pan and/or block heater in the winter will do wonders for your wear numbers. Also, even if the engine temp comes up to operating temps, just remember the oil takes 2 to 3 times as long to warm up.

I wouldn't use 0w40 during the winter unless that said vehicle like a VW turbo or a BMW requires it. Just run a nice 30 weight. The summer doesn't matter because cold startup really isn't an issue.

electricjohn

04-01-2007, 10:32 PM

My wear numbers only recently went up. Last winter they were fine, but the 30 wt. oil I was using last year sheered back due to fuel present in the oil, most likely due to long warmup idling and short trips. So this past winter I was using a 0w40. Viscosity was OK but I think the increase in copper, lead, chrome & iron is from more dirt getting in the engine. I've used the same K&N CAI filter for almost 2 years. I think it's drying out. I just ordered a replacement filter ($47.95), so now I'll have a backup. Once I get it I'll pull the current one and swap it out, then I'll only re-charge the old one about a week prior to needing a change again. I love this CAI, it really keeps the engine clean other than the present situation. I simply waited a little to long to change it IMO. We'll see on the next analysis 3,000 miles from now. But Ford thinks the 40 wt. wasn't getting to the moving parts fast enough. I am back to the 5w30 anyway, so I don't have to worry about that I guess.

Your chromium and aluminum is good, low and consistent all the way through to your current mileage, so you're not getting a lot of wear in your rings/cylinder walls, whereas mine really went up.... but your iron is high, which is your crank. 18 ppm silicon is not too bad, but that should be lower. I would think your copper would be higher since the iron is up.. so I don't know... and I am no expert. Do you have the stock airbox and filter? How long have you been using your present Syntec oil? Curious..
Starting at 4000 miles, I used M-1, M-1 EP, GC, GC, and I went back to M-1 EP this run. Each run has been 7500 miles. Engine is stock.

Letting the engine idle for 10 minutes this morning heated the oil in the pan to 100*F. Outside temp was 43*.

Blue_Water_Rush

04-02-2007, 09:44 PM

Starting at 4000 miles, I used M-1, M-1 EP, GC, GC, and I went back to M-1 EP this run. Each run has been 7500 miles. Engine is stock.

Letting the engine idle for 10 minutes this morning heated the oil in the pan to 100*F. Outside temp was 43*.
Wow, that's not too hot for 10 min. of warmup. What is the "normal" operating temp. of the oil supposed to be??

wurk4fordboughttitan

04-03-2007, 12:22 AM

175 to 220 is considered normal

electricjohn

04-03-2007, 08:22 AM

After my 10 mile ride to or from work, it is up to about 167. When I trailer my boat long distance it is at 195.

HRTKD

05-03-2007, 05:20 PM

Blue_Water_Rush

05-03-2007, 09:56 PM

I just did my oil change at 1,100 miles. This was the stock oil. I replaced it with AMSoil 0w30. Since I don't drive much I probably won't be posting another engine oil analysis until next March/April. Is it worthwhile getting an analysis of the rear/front differential and transfer case fluids?
Holy smoke, your copper is up there. Silicon is high too, but that will settle down with a few more miles.

I woulda stuck wit the conventional oil until break-in is complete, then switch to synthetic once the wear metals settle down.

HRTKD

05-03-2007, 10:22 PM

Holy smoke, your copper is up there. Silicon is high too, but that will settle down with a few more miles.

I woulda stuck wit the conventional oil until break-in is complete, then switch to synthetic once the wear metals settle down.

Hey, I waited for 1,100 miles! :) That's pretty good for someone as impatient as I am.

Seriously, I looked to see if there was any concensus on what the break-in period would be and the numbers seemed to have quite a range. So I picked 1,000.

Titan-man

06-13-2007, 06:11 AM

here is mine...

JetTech

06-13-2007, 07:13 AM

here is mine...

Although I've never been much of a fan of syntec, it appears to be doing very well in your engine. This is true of most oils used in the Endurance engine whether they're non-synthetic cheap stuff or the expensive stuff like Royal Purple. That's good to know because it's a true testament to how well built that engine is.

Titan-man

06-13-2007, 01:07 PM

any suggestions on better oil other than royal?
Thought Castrol was up there? at least the higher grade.

cujo

06-13-2007, 01:34 PM

Here's a copy of mine. I just did it during my last oil change at around 28k, using only regular 5w30 oil. During my recent change, I put in Mobil1 5w30.

VT_Titan

07-11-2007, 10:45 AM

Here's my first oil analysis report. This is not the first oil change, actually it's my third. This report is for 5W30 dino oil, but I put 5W30 AMSoil full synthetic in it during this change. I'll probably pull a sample in the next couple of months just to see if the silicon and other higher than average numbers were misreadings or just bad sampling on my part.
With regard to silicon, I'm using a Framboost CAI and was curious if anybody else running this intake has higher than average silicon.

Blue_Water_Rush

07-16-2007, 10:17 PM

Here's my 32,000 mile report. 4,212 miles on M1EP530. Wear numbers back down nicely. Good viscosity and flashpoint. I'm happy w/this report, but I'm changing this oil to royal purple very soon. I'm either at or below uni-avgs. with this latest analysis. Opinions welcome.

iDigitalPix

08-25-2007, 06:17 PM

Blackstone reports for engine oil and rear diff.

Tosh

07 Titan LE CC

JetTech

08-25-2007, 08:57 PM

Both of those samples look great Tosh, thanks for posting them!!

EricNg

10-05-2007, 12:35 AM

I posted this over on bitog also..

Engine Make/Model: 2006 Nissan Titan V8 5.6L
Oil interval: 2543 miles
Engine mileage: 45386 miles on odometer
Oil/oil filter used: 6.7 qts M1 0w-40 & Pure1 filter
Makeup oil: none
Oil lab: Blackstone
Oil samples was taken on 9-12-07

The left is the most recent and the right is from my last two samples:
M1 0w-40 GC 0w-30 M1 5w-30TSUV
9-12-07 10-31-06 5-24-06
miles on oil: 2543 3006 2569
odometer: 45386 21058 11634
Aluminum: 2 1 2
Chromium: 1 0 1
Iron: 7 3 6
Copper: 1 2 2
Lead: 1 1 2
Tin: 0 0 0
Moly: 68 1 75
Nickel: 0 0 0
Manganese: 0 0 0
Silver: 0 0 0
Titanium: 0 0 0
Potassium: 0 0 0
Boron: 118 0 38
Silicon: 13 19 12
Sodium: 8 3 8
Calcium: 2557 2736 2173
Magnesium: 14 209 11
Phosphorus: 790 851 571
Zinc: 917 964 672
Barium: 0 0 0

TBN: 7.5 5.7 4.8
SUS visc 210F: 67.2 65.5 59.1
Flashpoint: 395F 385F 390F
Fuel: <0.5 TR 0
Antifreeze: 0 0 0
Water: 0 0 0
Insolubles: 0.2 0.1 TR

Blackstone thought this was a 10w-40 grade, although i think they mistaken it when i put mobil 1 0w-40. During this short interval, i hauled about 1200 lbs of stuff for about 35 miles and hauled a 300 lb couch 400 miles to houston, TX.

i386

10-15-2007, 11:14 AM

Here's mine. 1st oil change.

NorCal 4x4

11-03-2007, 08:14 PM

Blackstone reports for engine oil and rear diff.

Tosh

07 Titan LE CC
Why does an '07 Nissan Titan's rear differential's oil have a viscosity of 80w90 when the spec was changed to 75w140 back in 2005?

Why would Dana use silicon, (silica/sand), in the sealers? Is Blackstone Labs confusing silicon with silicone, (Dupont RTV)?

Makes me wonder.
TOSHIO: Nothing too unusual showed up in the first sample from your differential. All wear read well
below universal averages and in the proper balance. For this type of system those averages are
based on an oil run of ~60,000 miles, which explains why your wear was so much lower than average.
Only silicon was high and it's likely from sealers used when assembling the differential. No moisture
was found and insolubles (oil oxidation due to heat, use, and blow-by) read normally. The viscosity read in the 80W/90 range. Check back in 30,000 miles for another look at wear.

scr38

01-14-2008, 04:41 PM

Here is my latest oil report from Blackstone. Notice that this oil was Amsoil 5W30. The report at 3,100 miles of oil use was Mobile 10W30 conventional oil, and the reports at 5,052 and 5,094 miles of use were Mobile 1 10W30.
I ran the Amsoil longer than I planned, at 5,848 miles of use. I was trying to keep the change close to 5,000 miles to compare the results.
Even with almost 800 miles more use the Amsoil looked very good, with better results in almost every field.
I have the same grade Amsoil in the engine now. I will change it at around 5,000 use and have it tested. I have 25 dyno pulls on the current oil, so it will be interesting to see the results of the next change.
Nissan filters have been used on all changes.

HRTKD

06-02-2008, 05:32 PM

Attached is my latest oil sample report. This was my first report with AMSoil. The first report was on the OEM oil from the factory.

Lessons learned: Given that I'm still under 10,000 miles and the first oil change was at 1,100 miles I shouldn't have gone so long on this set of oil. I probably should have changed it when the oil had 5,000 miles on it instead of ~7,500 miles. Still, the AMSoil is looking good.

EricNg

06-07-2008, 02:28 PM

Engine Make/Model: 2006 Nissan Titan V8 5.6L
Oil interval: 3754 miles
Engine mileage: 56679 miles on odometer
Oil/oil filter used: 6.7 qts Castrol Syntec 0w-30 aka "GC 0w-30" & Pureone oil filter
Makeup oil: none
Oil lab: Blackstone
Oil samples was taken on 5-31-08

The left is the most recent and the right is from my last three samples:
(GC 0w-30) (M1 0w-40) (GC 0w-30) (M1 5w-30TSUV)
5-31-08 9-12-07 10-31-06 5-24-06
miles on oil: 3754 2543 3006 2569
odometer: 56679 45386 21058 11634
Aluminum: 2 2 1 2
Chromium: 1 1 0 1
Iron: 6 7 3 6
Copper: 1 1 2 2
Lead: 6 1 1 2
Tin: 2 0 0 0
Moly: 4 68 1 75
Nickel: 0 0 0 0
Manganese: 0 0 0 0
Silver: 0 0 0 0
Titanium: 0 0 0 0
Potassium: 2 0 0 0
Boron: 5 118 0 38
Silicon: 15 13 19 12
Sodium: 7 8 3 8
Calcium: 1979 2557 2736 2173
Magnesium: 552 14 209 11
Phosphorus: 962 790 851 571
Zinc: 1286 917 964 672
Barium: 0 0 0 0

TBN: n/a 7.5 5.7 4.8
SUS visc 210F: 63.8 67.2 65.5 59.1
cST visc 100C: 11.28 12.21 11.74 9.95
Flashpoint: 390F 395F 385F 390F
Fuel: <0.5 <0.5 TR <0.5
Antifreeze: 0 0 0 0
Water: 0 0 0 0
Insolubles: 0.2 0.2 0.1 TR

Blackstone: Thanks for the note about changing your air filter. We'll likely see silicon lower in the next sample. At 56,679
miles the 5.6L that powers your Titan continues to wear very well. This is the longest oil run that we've seen from your
engine and other than the increase in lead very little change was found. Lead at this level isn't a problem and we
wouldn't be surprised if it retreated in the next sample. If you did any heavy towing or hard driving on this fill that would
explain the increase. No problems were found.