Hi,
I thought this question would be good to post to CT and get the right answer archived.
Here goes. Got my PRG Kit, (thanks Greg!) It's really nicely made & all. But since there were no instructions for the rear blocks, Greg is assuming that I will make the right choice as to where to put the rear lift block. (He has more confidence in me than I do.) The question is, does to aluminium block from the kit go between the stock block & the spring or the stock block & the axle?
Thanks guys, this group is very supportive and most knowlegeable.
w/ any luck at all, it'll go on Saturday. (for those of you following my wheel/tire soap opera, still no tires and no answer to the email sent to the dealer as to ship date)
T Rex :(

Hi T-rex,

Here's the directions I sent to another member several days ago on how to install the rear blocks. Let me know if you have any more questions.

As far as the rear blocks go, you need to support the rear of the truck using jack stands. Do you have 2 of them I hope??

Jack the rear of the truck up just forward of the jack point (little arrow) on the frame, then set your jackstand at the arrow on the frame with the tires about 2" off the ground. Do this to both sides.

Remove both rear tires to give you the necessary room to lower the rear diff once the shocks are removed and the U-bolts.

Put your jack under the rear diff and jack it up just a little so you know the weight of the rear diff is supported with the jack.

Remove the lower shock bolts on each side.

Then remove the 4 nuts on each side that go to the factory U-Bolts.

Lower the rear diff using your jack slowly, and just enough to slide the blocks in between the springs and axle. There's a little bolt head sticking out of the blocks that will go downwards into the hole into the axle mount pad, you can't miss it. Raise the rear diff using your jack so it snugs the blocks against the axle pad and springs.

Then install the new U-Bolts which will go over the factory rubber bump stop on the top. Reinstall the factory lower axle plate over the U-Bolts and install the supplied washers and nuts. Tighten them evenly until they are very snug. Then torque them to 80ft/lbs. If you've done it right you should see the same amount of threads sticking out beyond the nuts, which of course means that you tightened them down evenly.

Reinstall the lower shock bolts.

Install your tires and lower the truck and you're done!!!

Take if for a ride over some railroad tracks or good bumps. Then when you get back retorque the U-Bolt nuts again just to make sure they didn't loosen up.

Pat yourself on the back and have a beer!!

It's really easy, and once you're done you'll be an expert at it....

Thanks for the info JT.
I am an ***... I looked under the truck today (finally) and realized that it's not a block, it's the spring perch, made 1.5" high, stamped steel. When I was doing the Borla, I thought I saw a solid block there.
Like I said, I'm an ***...
The PRG blocks can only go in one way. Oy gewalt!
But howcome the PRG blocks aren't tapered to correct the driveline angle? Not needed with such a short block?
T Rex

With that little bit of a lift I can't see it harming or changing the drive-line angle much at all. I bet prerunner Greg could answer your question as to the exact angle of change with the blocks.

With the smaller blocks, the angle is OK. We start seeing the problem when you approach 4" of rear lift.

If you haven't done the install yet, you can see pictures on my PRG page: http://www.tscomputerservices.com/titan/PRGkit.html

Those coupled with JT's instructions should get you through the install!