For those of you who may be interested, the following pictures show the process of installing the
SAW front coilovers, PRG UCA’s, new camber adjusting bolts, rear SAW’s, rear lift blocks, and the
PRG traction bars. You may not need all this information, or your parts may be different,
but the installation of similar items is done the same way, regardless of the brand.
It should be noted that my truck is a 4x4, but 4x2 installation is similar.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG_total_package-4.jpg

You can use string and a plumb bob, make marks on the floor where your front tires are, and make
the appropriate measurements to reset the toe-in of the front tires after you install this suspension,
but I didn’t bother as I knew I’d be taking it directly to an alignment
shop afterwards.
Loosen and remove the sway bar endlink nuts while the truck is on the ground. This will make
removal of the front coilovers a lot easier later on.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Sway_bar_bolt.jpg

The first thing is to install the new camber adjusting bolts. This may not be necessary, and both times the
front suspension has been modified, the only adjustment required was a toe adjustment. FYI, I put the PRG
leveling kit on first, and then made this suspension modification. I decided that since I’m tearing the front
end apart, I would install these so any future adjustments were possible if necessary. Also note that I left
the PRG bumpstops in place to accommodate the new suspension as well.
This picture shows the stock lower control arms and the bolts. There are two bolts in each arm, with the
bolts entering from the rear and the nuts towards the front of the truck. You will want to replace them in this
orientation. For reference, this picture is viewed from behind the passenger front tire, looking toward the front of the truck.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Existing_lower_control_arm_bolts-2.jpg

To install the new bolts, block in front and behind the rear tires and make sure the steering wheel is straight.
You may want to take a reference measurement of the stock ride height prior to doing any suspension work.
Just measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender and write the measurement down.
Next, since you already parked your truck on a firm, level surface, jack the front of the truck up and put it
on jackstands. Here are the jacking points and the position of the jackstands on the frame.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Lift_points.jpg

Remove the existing lower control arm bolts one at a time, making sure to install the new cambolts in the same
orientation. Torque the new cambolts to 98 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/New_cambolt_bolt_head_end.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/New_cambolt_nut_end.jpg

Remove the front tires. This is about what you should see.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Stock_coilover_nothing_disassembled.jpg

To get to the stock upper control arm bolts, it will be easier if you remove the wheelwell liners. There is a liner
flap that is in the way of the upper bolts.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Wheelwell_liner_flap_at_stock_UCA-2.jpg

Remove the front wheelwell liners. There are 6 phillips head screws and 6 push fasteners. Removal of the push
fasteners is done with a small screwdriver.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Wheelwell_liner_push_fastener_remov.jpg

This is a picture of the front passenger side with the wheelwell liner removed.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Stock_Upper_rear_WO_wheel_liner.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Stock_Upper_front_WO_wheel_liner.jpg

Note that the wiring harness clip must be opened and the harness moved out of the way to get to the front UCA bolt.
Then remove the cotter pin in the upper ball joint nut. Loosen the nut approximately 1/2 inch and hit the UCA
with a mallot or 4 lb. hand sledgehammer. The spindle should drop down from the UCA. Place an additional floorjack
under the bottom of the spindle to support it when the upper nut is released.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Stock_UCA_and_ball_joint.jpg

Make sure to tie the spindle up so there is no tension on the brake hoses that go to the brake caliper.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Stock_coilover_spindle_dropped_from.jpg

Remove the upper control arm by unbolting the top two bolts. This is a picture of the stock upper control arm removed.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/UCA_removed.jpg

Using a 14mm wrench or socket, remove the three nuts from the top of the OEM spring hat above the coilbucket.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/stock_co_spring_hat_bolts_closeup.jpg

Using a 19mm wrench or socket, remove the bolt and nut from the lower shock mount. Remove the entire shock
assembly from the truck. Remember to save the lower shock mount bolt and nut.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/stock_co_lower_bolt_closeup.jpg

Note: The PRG leveling spacer is NOT to be used in conjunction with this coilover setup. It must be removed
and discarded (resold to the highest bidder). The hardware, bumpstops and instructions you see in the first
picture in this write-up are the PRG Leveling Resale Kit Greg provides. It includes all the hardware and new
bumpstops so the only re-used component to the lucky recipient of your used kit is the spacers themselves.
To install the new PRG UCA, put the spacer in the two upper end heim joints as shown.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/UCA_spacers_going_in.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Closeup_of_UCA_heims_with_spacers.jpg

Reinstall using the stock hardware. Torque the upper bolts to 110 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/UCA_mounted.jpg

Note that on the driver’s side of the truck, you will need to remove the bolts that hold the brake line brackets to the frame.
Additionally, there is not enough room at the rear bolt to get a socket on the nut due to the steering knuckle. You will
need to double wrench these bolts off and back on.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/drivers_side_UCA_with_brake_lines.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/drivers_side_UCA_with_brake_lines-2.jpg

To install the new SAW’s, remove the upper shock mount from the shock assembly and attach it to the top of the
coilbucket. The notches face toward the engine (on both sides). Using the PRG supplied 3/8” bolts, lock washers,
and nuts, attach the new spring hat with the spacer under the coilbucket, lock washers on bolt with head coming
up from the bottom. Put the other lockwashers and nuts on the top and torque to 50 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Coilover_hat_mounted.jpg

Take the allenhead bolt that came installed in the SAW’s and throw it away… or into your “spare parts tray”. Using
the new, shorter length allenhead bolt that PRG provides, put the new shock up through the shock hat and fasten
the allenhead bolt through the top of the shock. Note: the Schrader valve should be facing OUT after installation.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/coilover_bottom_closeup_before_adju.jpg

In the photo above, note that the longer spacer is toward the rear of the lower shock mount. This is for additional
clearance from the axle. Also, note that the coilovers DON’T come assembled that way, so you need to reverse the spacers.
Torque the upper bolt (allenhead bolt) to 85 FT.-LB.
Torque the lower bolt (re-used stock bolt) to 85 FT.-LB. using a 19mm wrench and socket.
Now, swing the new UCA down and reattach to the front spindle with the new hardware provided by PRG.
The bolt goes in from the top, then the upper spacer and the lower spacer goes under the heim joint and finally the nut.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Front_done_and_adjusted-back_view.jpg

This nut should be torqued to 58 FT.-LB. with a 19mm socket and wrench. Check for clearance of the new shocks
with the rest of the front-end components. Turn the wheel back and forth full lock to assure no binding or fitment
problems. On 4x4’s, make sure the lower shock cap clears the axle of the driveshaft.
Before reinstalling the tires, give all fasteners a double-check and make sure you’ve reattached all the wiring harnesses,
clamps, brackets, etc.

You may also want to put some preload into the front shocks prior to mounting the tires. Loosen the setscrew in
the lower cap and turn the shock base using the supplied spanner wrench. Lube the threads to ease rotation of the
shaft and turn until you have the desired height. There is enough spring tension so the setscrew is not really necessary.
It was recommended to leave the setscrew out since the caps should not turn on their own, and if the threads of
the setscrew get messed up, there’s literally no way to readjust the shocks.
Note:

Maximum amount of lift recommended for a 2WD (4x2) is 3”
Maximum amount of lift recommended for a 4WD (4x4) is 2.5”
The distance from the adjuster nut to the top of the cap (amount of thread showing) should be no more than 2”.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/2_inch_adjustment_on_coilovers.jpg

Replace the wheelwell liners and wheels. Put the truck down on the level surface and check the ride height.
If the height needs to be adjusted, jack the truck so the weight is off the wheels and adjust as necessary.
With the truck on the ground, reattach the sway bar endlinks and tighten the nuts to 62 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Front_SAWs_mounted.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Front_SAWs_mounted-2.jpg


For the rear, all modifications were done at once. Rear shocks, lift blocks, and traction bar brackets.

Block the front wheels. Remove the rear shock absorbers by unbolting the bottom and then the top of the shocks.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Existing_rear_with_shock_out.jpg

Working only one side at a time, remove the lower shackle u-bolts.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Removing_rear_shackle_brackets.jpg

Put a jack under the frame (use a block of wood on the jack to prevent damage to the frame) in front of the rear
tire on the side you are working and lift the truck and spring up off the axle enough to slip the lift block in. The pin
goes down into the spring perch on the axle and the spring has a pin that fits into the hole in the top of the spacer.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Rear_spacer_spring_up.jpg

Lower the truck onto the spacer. You may need to use a pry bar to get the pin aligned with the hole in the spacer.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Rear_spacer_mounted.jpg

Put the new traction bar rear mounting bracket under the axle and attach the longer u-bolts over the spring hat
and through the holes in the bracket.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Rear_shackle_with_spacer_mounted_si.jpg

Make sure not to pinch any brake lines or cables between the u-bolts and the axle. It is also important that all the
bolts protrude through the bracket the same amount. This ensures proper positioning of the sway bars that will
be added to the rear later.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Rear_Shackle_with_spacer_mounted.jpg

Torque the u-bolts to 75 FT.-LB. You will need to retorque these bolts after driving for some time. Do the same to the other side.
With the truck on the ground (not on the jack or jackstands) put the new shocks in starting with the top bolt.
The reservoir should face away from the axle on each side, so one will face front, the other will face rearward.
There are spacers for these shocks similar to what were supplied for the front shocks. Make sure the wider set of
spacers is on the bottom of the shock and the narrower set is on the top. Otherwise, the shocks won’t fit into the shock mounts.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Rear_SAWs_mounted-2.jpg

Torque the upper and lower shock bolts to 110 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Rear_Shock_lower_mount.jpg

To attach the PRG Traction Bars, the truck must be setting on firm level ground. Bolt the traction bars into the rear mounting bracket.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Traction_Bar_rear_mount.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Traction_bar_rear_bolt.jpg

Adjust the front torsion bar heim joint so half the threads are showing on the threaded shaft and tighten
the adjuster nut finger tight.
Put the bolt through the front bracket and the heim joint.
Locate the bracket against the frame and mark the location with a pencil or marker.
Lower the bracket and grind the paint off the frame of the truck either side of the locating marks, where the
front bracket is to be welded to the frame. Remark the frame where the bracket is to be welded if the
marks were removed during the grinding.
It is easier with a lift or hydraulic jack when welding, but not completely necessary. Remove the bolt
from the front bracket and heim joint. Locate the bracket against the frame rail and tack weld it into place.
Double check the location by rotating the bar back up and bolting through the bracket and heim joint.
Once assured that the position is correct, remove the bolt, lower the traction bar and weld the front bracket
to the frame rail as shown in the photos below.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Traction_bar_front_bracket-2.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Traction_bar_front_bracket-1.jpg

Allow the welds to cool sufficiently, lightly sand the area and apply primer and finish paint as required to protect
the exposed bracket and frame steel from corrosion.
Finally, bolt through the front mounting bracket and heim joint and torque the front bolts to 60 FT-LB. Torque the rear
mounting bolts to 80 FT-LB as well.

The finished installation should look like this:

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Traction_bar-1.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/Traction_bar-2.jpg

Once again, double-check all the bolt torques and take it for a test drive.
The front UCA heim joints may clunk a bit when driving. This translates through the frame into the floor of the truck
and seems like a major issue. However, it is the heim joints releasing the built-up energy against the seals. All that is
required is to lubricate the upper heims with a bit of WD-40 or light penetrating oil. Don’t use motor oil or bearing
or axle grease. Allow the penetrant to soak for a bit before driving it. I let it sit for an hour, then drove it. The clunk soon
subsided somewhat. Upon return home, I sprayed it again and let it sit overnight. From the very first turn, the
following morning, all evidence of this clunk was gone. This may need to be done occasionally as the need arises.
Also, don’t forget to double-check all your bolt torques after driving for a short time.

Please note, some portions of the installation instructions are reproduced from PRG Products. Always refer to
your provided instructions and use this as a secondary guideline if necessary.

That is an awesome writeup! This one has to go in the How-To section. I wish this had been available when I did my install.

Nice write-up!!! Spent a ton of time on that one! Great job.

Good post.....

I got to install my PRG UCAs, Lower Control Arms spacers, and PRG shakles soon.

PRG ROCKS!!!!

EXCELLENT WRITE-UP!!!!!!!!

Do you have any pictures of the finished product?

awesome write up. Good job!

For those of you who may be interested, the following pictures show the process of installing the
SAW front coilovers, PRG UCA’s, new camber adjusting bolts, rear SAW’s, rear lift blocks, and the
PRG traction bars. You may not need all this information, or your parts may be different,
but the installation of similar items is done the same way, regardless of the brand.
It should be noted that my truck is a 4x4, but 4x2 installation is similar.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/PRG_total_package-4.jpg


You can use string and a plumb bob, make marks on the floor where your front tires are, and make
the appropriate measurements to reset the toe-in of the front tires after you install this suspension,
but I didn’t bother as I knew I’d be taking it directly to an alignment
shop afterwards.

Loosen and remove the sway bar endlink nuts while the truck is on the ground. This will make
removal of the front coilovers a lot easier later on.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Sway_bar_bolt.jpg


The first thing is to install the new camber adjusting bolts. This may not be necessary, and both times the
front suspension has been modified, the only adjustment required was a toe adjustment. FYI, I put the PRG
leveling kit on first, and then made this suspension modification. I decided that since I’m tearing the front
end apart, I would install these so any future adjustments were possible if necessary. Also note that I left
the PRG bumpstops in place to accommodate the new suspension as well.

This picture shows the stock lower control arms and the bolts. There are two bolts in each arm, with the
bolts entering from the rear and the nuts towards the front of the truck. You will want to replace them in this
orientation. For reference, this picture is viewed from behind the passenger front tire, looking toward the front of the truck.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Existing_lower_control_arm_bolts-2.jpg


To install the new bolts, block in front and behind the rear tires and make sure the steering wheel is straight.
You may want to take a reference measurement of the stock ride height prior to doing any suspension work.
Just measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender and write the measurement down.

Next, since you already parked your truck on a firm, level surface, jack the front of the truck up and put it
on jackstands. Here are the jacking points and the position of the jackstands on the frame.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Lift_points.jpg


Remove the existing lower control arm bolts one at a time, making sure to install the new cambolts in the same
orientation. Torque the new cambolts to 98 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/New_cambolt_bolt_head_end.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/New_cambolt_nut_end.jpg


Remove the front tires. This is about what you should see.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Stock_coilover_nothing_disassembled.jpg


To get to the stock upper control arm bolts, it will be easier if you remove the wheelwell liners. There is a liner
flap that is in the way of the upper bolts.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Wheelwell_liner_flap_at_stock_UCA-2.jpg


Remove the front wheelwell liners. There are 6 phillips head screws and 6 push fasteners. Removal of the push
fasteners is done with a small screwdriver.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Wheelwell_liner_push_fastener_remov.jpg


This is a picture of the front passenger side with the wheelwell liner removed.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Stock_Upper_rear_WO_wheel_liner.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Stock_Upper_front_WO_wheel_liner.jpg


Note that the wiring harness clip must be opened and the harness moved out of the way to get to the front UCA bolt.
Then remove the cotter pin in the upper ball joint nut. Loosen the nut approximately 1/2 inch and hit the UCA
with a mallot or 4 lb. hand sledgehammer. The spindle should drop down from the UCA. Place an additional floorjack
under the bottom of the spindle to support it when the upper nut is released.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Stock_UCA_and_ball_joint.jpg


Make sure to tie the spindle up so there is no tension on the brake hoses that go to the brake caliper.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Stock_coilover_spindle_dropped_from.jpg


Remove the upper control arm by unbolting the top two bolts. This is a picture of the stock upper control arm removed.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/UCA_removed.jpg


Using a 14mm wrench or socket, remove the three nuts from the top of the OEM spring hat above the coilbucket.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/stock_co_spring_hat_bolts_closeup.jpg


Using a 19mm wrench or socket, remove the bolt and nut from the lower shock mount. Remove the entire shock
assembly from the truck. Remember to save the lower shock mount bolt and nut.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/stock_co_lower_bolt_closeup.jpg


Note: The PRG leveling spacer is NOT to be used in conjunction with this coilover setup. It must be removed
and discarded (resold to the highest bidder). The hardware, bumpstops and instructions you see in the first
picture in this write-up are the PRG Leveling Resale Kit Greg provides. It includes all the hardware and new
bumpstops so the only re-used component to the lucky recipient of your used kit is the spacers themselves.

To install the new PRG UCA, put the spacer in the two upper end heim joints as shown.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/UCA_spacers_going_in.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Closeup_of_UCA_heims_with_spacers.jpg


Reinstall using the stock hardware. Torque the upper bolts to 110 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/UCA_mounted.jpg


Note that on the driver’s side of the truck, you will need to remove the bolts that hold the brake line brackets to the frame.
Additionally, there is not enough room at the rear bolt to get a socket on the nut due to the steering knuckle. You will
need to double wrench these bolts off and back on.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/drivers_side_UCA_with_brake_lines.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/drivers_side_UCA_with_brake_lines-2.jpg


To install the new SAW’s, remove the upper shock mount from the shock assembly and attach it to the top of the
coilbucket. The notches face toward the engine (on both sides). Using the PRG supplied 3/8” bolts, lock washers,
and nuts, attach the new spring hat with the spacer under the coilbucket, lock washers on bolt with head coming
up from the bottom. Put the other lockwashers and nuts on the top and torque to 50 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Coilover_hat_mounted.jpg


Take the allenhead bolt that came installed in the SAW’s and throw it away… or into your “spare parts tray”. Using
the new, shorter length allenhead bolt that PRG provides, put the new shock up through the shock hat and fasten
the allenhead bolt through the top of the shock. Note: the Schrader valve should be facing OUT after installation.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/coilover_bottom_closeup_before_adju.jpg


In the photo above, note that the longer spacer is toward the rear of the lower shock mount. This is for additional
clearance from the axle. Also, note that the coilovers DON’T come assembled that way, so you need to reverse the spacers.

Torque the upper bolt (allenhead bolt) to 85 FT.-LB.

Torque the lower bolt (re-used stock bolt) to 85 FT.-LB. using a 19mm wrench and socket.

Now, swing the new UCA down and reattach to the front spindle with the new hardware provided by PRG.
The bolt goes in from the top, then the upper spacer and the lower spacer goes under the heim joint and finally the nut.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Front_done_and_adjusted-back_view.jpg


This nut should be torqued to 58 FT.-LB. with a 19mm socket and wrench. Check for clearance of the new shocks
with the rest of the front-end components. Turn the wheel back and forth full lock to assure no binding or fitment
problems. On 4x4’s, make sure the lower shock cap clears the axle of the driveshaft.

Before reinstalling the tires, give all fasteners a double-check and make sure you’ve reattached all the wiring harnesses,
clamps, brackets, etc.

You may also want to put some preload into the front shocks prior to mounting the tires. Loosen the setscrew in
the lower cap and turn the shock base using the supplied spanner wrench. Lube the threads to ease rotation of the
shaft and turn until you have the desired height. There is enough spring tension so the setscrew is not really necessary.
It was recommended to leave the setscrew out since the caps should not turn on their own, and if the threads of
the setscrew get messed up, there’s literally no way to readjust the shocks.

Note:

Maximum amount of lift recommended for a 2WD (4x2) is 3”

Maximum amount of lift recommended for a 4WD (4x4) is 2.5”

The distance from the adjuster nut to the top of the cap (amount of thread showing) should be no more than 2”.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/2_inch_adjustment_on_coilovers.jpg


Replace the wheelwell liners and wheels. Put the truck down on the level surface and check the ride height.
If the height needs to be adjusted, jack the truck so the weight is off the wheels and adjust as necessary.

With the truck on the ground, reattach the sway bar endlinks and tighten the nuts to 62 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Front_SAWs_mounted.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Front_SAWs_mounted-2.jpg




For the rear, all modifications were done at once. Rear shocks, lift blocks, and traction bar brackets.

Block the front wheels. Remove the rear shock absorbers by unbolting the bottom and then the top of the shocks.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Existing_rear_with_shock_out.jpg


Working only one side at a time, remove the lower shackle u-bolts.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Removing_rear_shackle_brackets.jpg


Put a jack under the frame (use a block of wood on the jack to prevent damage to the frame) in front of the rear
tire on the side you are working and lift the truck and spring up off the axle enough to slip the lift block in. The pin
goes down into the spring perch on the axle and the spring has a pin that fits into the hole in the top of the spacer.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Rear_spacer_spring_up.jpg


Lower the truck onto the spacer. You may need to use a pry bar to get the pin aligned with the hole in the spacer.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Rear_spacer_mounted.jpg


Put the new traction bar rear mounting bracket under the axle and attach the longer u-bolts over the spring hat
and through the holes in the bracket.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Rear_shackle_with_spacer_mounted_si.jpg


Make sure not to pinch any brake lines or cables between the u-bolts and the axle. It is also important that all the
bolts protrude through the bracket the same amount. This ensures proper positioning of the sway bars that will
be added to the rear later.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Rear_Shackle_with_spacer_mounted.jpg


Torque the u-bolts to 75 FT.-LB. You will need to retorque these bolts after driving for some time. Do the same to the other side.

With the truck on the ground (not on the jack or jackstands) put the new shocks in starting with the top bolt.
The reservoir should face away from the axle on each side, so one will face front, the other will face rearward.
There are spacers for these shocks similar to what were supplied for the front shocks. Make sure the wider set of
spacers is on the bottom of the shock and the narrower set is on the top. Otherwise, the shocks won’t fit into the shock mounts.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Rear_SAWs_mounted-2.jpg


Torque the upper and lower shock bolts to 110 FT.-LB.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk106/Blackbeauty-06/PRG%20Performance%20Lift%20Installation/Rear_Shock_lower_mount.jpg

I am about to install mine. Why don't these pics work anymore?

The images have gone AWOL! I wanted to verify that the two main bolts for the UCA (where it attaches to the frame) are to be tightened to 110 ft/lbs, correct?

I have a situation where the dealer said the bolts were loose. I'm pretty sure I tightened them to 110. But the dealer also said it looked like the frame mounts needed to be squeezed in to contact the spacers. I'm going to take a closer look at it this weekend but I wanted to get a little more info first.

Just checking to see if the torque setting for the main bolts on the PRG UCA is 110. I've seen other postings that say 125-140 ft/lbs. I didn't get any instructions for the UCA so I'm in the dark a bit.