http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/Holden_Caulfield04/mazda3003-1.jpg




As a new member of Club Titan, I would like to give you a full introduction and brief summary of my qualifications. In short, I have a passion for detailing like others do for fine wine, woodworking, or music. This is what I live and breathe. It stands to reason, then, I might know what I am talking about. :D

My business, Apollo Detailing, has been around for nearly two full seasons now. For the most part, we concentrate on paint correction. Paint correction, briefly, is the process by which defects, swirls, and scratches are removed from the paint.

This is an example of a panel that has received paint correction. Note the vast difference between the corrected and the uncorrected sides.


http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/Holden_Caulfield04/PortfolioTwo054.jpg



Here are a few examples of my work:

Picus & Holden_C04 - Polishing Perfection - Autopia.org (http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/108885-picus-holden_c04-polishing-perfection.html)

Apollo Detailing: 2007 Porsche Cayman S (35+ Photos) - Autopia.org (http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/108019-apollo-detailing-2007-porsche-cayman-s-35-photos.html)

2006 Volkswagen GTI (56k = :hairpull) - Autopia.org (http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/109275-2006-volkswagen-gti-56k-hairpull.html)

Apollo Detailing: Full Correction Imola Red '05 BMW 330ci ZHP - Autopia.org (http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/106895-apollo-detailing-full-correction-imola-red-05-bmw-330ci-zhp.html)

Apollo Detailing: 14hr Correction! Black 2001 BMW 540i - Autopia.org (http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/110460-apollo-detailing-14hr-correction-black-2001-bmw-540i.html)



I hope to be a helpful contributor to this forum. Now, feel free to ask any question you like. I have yet to be stumped.

Welcome to CT. Wish I could find a detailer near me.

I'll kick it off. I have a 2007 Shelby GT and although with my Porter Cable, levelers and quality wax I can make her shine, I can not get the "cobwebs" out of the black paint. Now I know black is not a color but a full time job but I'm stumped.
I order my leveler through topoftheline.com. Claybar does not help either.

The Car:
http://a607.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/3/l_6c6990c651bbf3e68fa40f8099a29b96.jpg

Examples of my waxing: (It's Texas, I can never get rid of the dust)
http://a115.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/67/l_e1d57beb5c340ed7a8eaa02506c28812.jpg
http://a590.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/83/l_8fa58b91a270036d148666520c690e85.jpg

Rear quarter panel reflection. The car is ~12' away and the camper ~18'.
http://a630.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/119/l_fde2b4c5cfd10f932a0832728318bfdd.jpg


If I park under the fluorescent lights at the barn it almost brings a tear to my eye from all the super fine scratches which shine like neon. What's your suggestion?

Welcome to CT. Wish I could find a detailer near me.

This is a mobile detailer based in Georgetown. I know it's about an hour away but he'll take good care of you.

http://www.texstardetail.com/

Tell him Holden_C04 (Tyler Norwood) of Apollo Detailing sent you. :)

I'll kick it off. I have a 2007 Shelby GT and although with my Porter Cable, levelers and quality wax I can make her shine, I can not get the "cobwebs" out of the black paint. Now I know black is not a color but a full time job but I'm stumped.
I order my leveler through topoftheline.com. Claybar does not help either.

The Car:
http://a607.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/3/l_6c6990c651bbf3e68fa40f8099a29b96.jpg

Examples of my waxing: (It's Texas, I can never get rid of the dust)
http://a115.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/67/l_e1d57beb5c340ed7a8eaa02506c28812.jpg
http://a590.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/83/l_8fa58b91a270036d148666520c690e85.jpg

Rear quarter panel reflection. The car is ~12' away and the camper ~18'.
http://a630.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/119/l_fde2b4c5cfd10f932a0832728318bfdd.jpg


If I park under the fluorescent lights at the barn it almost brings a tear to my eye from all the super fine scratches which shine like neon. What's your suggestion?


The Porter Cable is a capable machine. While it cannot match the speed and cutting power of a rotary polisher, it is still capable of removing swirls.

I have a great detailing guide in the works right now and I think it will help. For now, try this video and see if it helps:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI1y9PghsYU&feature=related


Note: claybar is not for removing scratches. Detailing clay glides above the surface of the paint removing embedded contaminants. Scratches are below the paint. Removing scratches is the job of compounds, polishes, and colour sanding.

I will contact them when I get back to TX. Do you know any near Newport News VA?

I am there until 28 AUG.

I will contact them when I get back to TX. Do you know any near Newport News VA?

I am there until 28 AUG.

The biggest name in VA is Tdekany who owns www.newshinedetailing.com. He's in Fairfax. I checked, and it's near DC. I think about 2-3 hours away.

I'll continue looking for you, though.

This is a mobile detailer based in Georgetown. I Note: claybar is not for removing scratches. Detailing clay glides above the surface of the paint removing embedded contaminants. Scratches are below the paint. Removing scratches is the job of compounds, polishes, and colour sanding.

Yeah I know it just seems that is the first response from everyone.

I also have a rotary but I am not gutsy enough to use it on black. It works very well on lighter colors I have used it on though. I've decided the cobweb scratches are under the clear coat on top of the paint itself and the majority are on the hood. I have heavy grit, medium grit and smoothing compounds. Even when stripping the car and starting new it makes no difference. I asked many detailers and had one other detailer try to remove them with no luck. Thanks. I guess it's something I'll have to live with.

Yeah I know it just seems that is the first response from everyone.

I also have a rotary but I am not gutsy enough to use it on black. It works very well on lighter colors I have used it on though. I've decided the cobweb scratches are under the clear coat on top of the paint itself and the majority are on the hood. I have heavy grit, medium grit and smoothing compounds. Even when stripping the car and starting new it makes no difference. I asked many detailers and had one other detailer try to remove them with no luck. Thanks. I guess it's something I'll have to live with.

I wouldn't give up. Polishing paint is a skill that you can learn. Since you have a rotary already, perhaps give this a read:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=66024

Do you know of any great detailers in the Lexington, KY area?

I hope to be a helpful contributor to this forum. Now, feel free to ask any question you like. I have yet to be stumped.[/SIZE][/FONT]

First off... Welcome to CT!

Secondly... What is the air speed velocity of a coconut laden swallow?

African or Euroean?

AHHHhhhhhhh

African or Euroean?

AHHHhhhhhhh

European. :) :) :)

I wouldn't give up. Polishing paint is a skill that you can learn. Since you have a rotary already, perhaps give this a read:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=66024
Great read! Thanks!

First off... Welcome to CT!

Thank you very much. I am glad to be here.

Secondly... What is the air speed velocity of a coconut laden swallow?

What do you mean? An African or European swallow?

EDIT: Oh, I guess that's been covered already. :)

LOL, I beat you to that one.

Do you know of any great detailers in the Lexington, KY area?

I'm looking into this as we speak. ;)

I'm currently using two different waxes: Mother's Carnauba and Turtle Wax Ice (which I think is technically a polish). I'm using both after the Mother's Clay Bar. I really like the look and the ease of the Turtle Wax Ice but I don't think it provides long lasting protection or shine like the Carnauba.

My questions:

What are your thoughts on Turtle Wax Ice?
Should I apply multiple coats and what is the cure time?
Should I apply Carnauba Wax over a fresh coat of Trutle Wax Ice?


Welcome to CT and thanks for the advice!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm232/Canadian_Miner/smileycarwash.gif

I'm currently using two different waxes: Mother's Carnauba and Turtle Wax Ice (which I think is technically a polish). I'm using both after the Mother's Clay Bar. I really like the look and the ease of the Turtle Wax Ice but I don't think it provides long lasting protection or shine like the Carnauba.

My questions:

What are your thoughts on Turtle Wax Ice?
Should I apply multiple coats and what is the cure time?
Should I apply Carnauba Wax over a fresh coat of Trutle Wax Ice?


Welcome to CT and thanks for the advice!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm232/Canadian_Miner/smileycarwash.gif


Turtle Wax Ice is a sealant, also known as wax. Sealant is the generally accepted term for a synthetic wax like Turtle Wax Ice.

1) I don't have many thoughts about Turtle Wax Ice, to be perfectly honest. It's an OTC product which doesn't get much play in the detailing world. Turtle Wax products generally get a pretty bad rap and I haven't used one since the first time I used a tub of "Polishing Compound."

My feeling is there are much nicer, and better performing products on the same shelf you bought the TWI (Turtle Wax Ice), like Meguiar's NXT2.

2) Two coats will give you complete coverage. The whole 'layering' crowd (see http://www.autopia.org/forum/hot-tub/108370-50-layers-zaino-picture.html) I think is a bit of a dud. Anything more than say six coats, is probably being removed by your towel.

3) Topping synthetic products like TWI with carnauba is a great idea. I often use Swissvax on top of Klasse AIO. It is one of my favourite combinations, in fact.

I hope that helps. Did I answer all your questions?

Sure did.

I'll give the Meguiar's NXT2 a shot, one more wax to add to the collection.

A few more questions (questions always seem to lead to more questions):

After applying two coats of synthetic for coverage should I top with two coats of carnauba for coverage as well or go for more?
How long should a wait between coats for curing with:

Synthetic Wax?
Carnauba?

I have been removing and applying the synthetic by hand using an applicator and microfiber towels. When using carnauba I'm applying with a random orbit (10") and removing with it as well, except the last coat that is removed by hand. Is this a good practise or could I see better results by using the random orbit at different times? Or not at all?

Sure did.

I'll give the Meguiar's NXT2 a shot, one more wax to add to the collection.

A few more questions (questions always seem to lead to more questions):

After applying two coats of synthetic for coverage should I top with two coats of carnauba for coverage as well or go for more?
How long should a wait between coats for curing with:

Synthetic Wax?
Carnauba?

I have been removing and applying the synthetic by hand using an applicator and microfiber towels. When using carnauba I'm applying with a random orbit (10") and removing with it as well, except the last coat that is removed by hand. Is this a good practise or could I see better results by using the random orbit at different times? Or not at all?


After applying two coats of a sealant, your finish will be sufficiently protected. The first carnauba coat will add a great deal of warmth and wetness to the look, but subsequent coats will fall under the law of diminishing return. Basically, you won't see a great deal of difference. If you want to, go for it. If it sounds like a waste of time, then don't. That decision is in your hands.

Every sealant is different with regard to cure time. My recommendation would be to wait two hours after each application of TWI. If you want to follow up your carnauba wax application with another coat, wait 6-12 hours for it to cure. I would lean towards the latter of those two.

As long as what you are using to apply and remove is paint-safe, it really does not matter. The only exception to this rule is a rotary polisher. It cannot be used to apply any form of wax or sealant due to its potential to instill holograms that may only show days after the work is complete.

A good way to measure whether a towel is paint-safe, is to swipe a CD with one your of towels to see if it is scratched as a result. Here's an Autopia thread discussing this exact topic:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/58998-microfiber-scratch-test.html

Thanks, with all that work I want to get the best possible results from my investment. This is really helpful.

Thanks, with all that work I want to get the best possible results from my investment. This is really helpful.

I'm glad I could help. :thumbup:

How can I get baked in water spots off of my windows?

How can I get baked in water spots off of my windows?

You can use Klasse All-in-One which has chemical cleaning properties that will remove those spots. If you ever get them all over the car, you can actually add vinegar to your wash bucket. The mild acidic properties will remove light (non-etched) water spots.

You can use Klasse All-in-One which has chemical cleaning properties that will remove those spots. If you ever get them all over the car, you can actually add vinegar to your wash bucket. The mild acidic properties will remove light (non-etched) water spots.
so whats the right way to detail a light swirl marked car? is it clay bar, buffing with polishing compound then wax? or any other way??

so whats the right way to detail a light swirl marked car? is it clay bar, buffing with polishing compound then wax? or any other way??

That's the correct order. Use a light or medium grade polish and work it to your satisfaction. Check your work in the sun to make sure there are no holograms.

That's the correct order. Use a light or medium grade polish and work it to your satisfaction. Check your work in the sun to make sure there are no holograms.oh ok ill do that but i first do all in the shade first right? then move outside to see any holograms? i know hot paint really isnt good for our paint while waxing

oh ok ill do that but i first do all in the shade first right? then move outside to see any holograms? i know hot paint really isnt good for our paint while waxing

That's exactly right.

That's exactly right.
thanks dude! do i have to clay later on down the road like in 3 months if i want the same outcome as before or should i wait? i know handwashing kinda kills the shine but then again i want that shine back! :love-sick-big:

thanks dude! do i have to clay later on down the road like in 3 months if i want the same outcome as before or should i wait? i know handwashing kinda kills the shine but then again i want that shine back! :love-sick-big:

The answer for whether to clay lies not in time, but on the finish of your paint. Place your hand in a ziploc bag (this amplifies the senses in your fingertips), and place it on the paint after a wash. If it feels rough to the touch, then it will need to be clayed.

Hand washing should not kill the shine if the finish was perfect and polished before the wax application. Frequent washing will shorten the life of your LSP, however.

The answer for whether to clay lies not in time, but on the finish of your paint. Place your hand in a ziploc bag (this amplifies the senses in your fingertips), and place it on the paint after a wash. If it feels rough to the touch, then it will need to be clayed.

Hand washing should not kill the shine if the finish was perfect and polished before the wax application. Frequent washing will shorten the life of your LSP, however.
i wash about every 3 weeks to a month or so depends on if it rains or not. if it rains every week then every 2 weeks ill wash if not ill just let her sit for about 3 weeks to a month :D

i wash about every 3 weeks to a month or so depends on if it rains or not. if it rains every week then every 2 weeks ill wash if not ill just let her sit for about 3 weeks to a month :D

My standard recommendation is to wash at least every two weeks. It helps to keep the grime down on the lower half of the vehicle.

My standard recommendation is to wash at least every two weeks. It helps to keep the grime down on the lower half of the vehicle.
youre right i should do that but then again my wife only drives it every day about 5 miles to work and back :D im the one putting the leftover miles in her running around and getting her dirty lol! ima wash her tomorrow thanks for all your help HOLDEN!!!:thumbsup-big: :thumbsup-big: :thumbsup-big: :thumbsup-big:

youre right i should do that but then again my wife only drives it every day about 5 miles to work and back :D im the one putting the leftover miles in her running around and getting her dirty lol! ima wash her tomorrow thanks for all your help HOLDEN!!!:thumbsup-big: :thumbsup-big: :thumbsup-big: :thumbsup-big:

You're welcome and...you can call me Tyler. ;)

Best of luck and show us the results when you're done.

You're welcome and...you can call me Tyler. ;)

Best of luck and show us the results when you're done.this is what ive done so far on my truck. this was the 2nd time i waxed it. i should have cone better and there wasnt that much sun out too.

this is what ive done so far on my truck. this was the 2nd time i waxed it. i should have cone better and there wasnt that much sun out too.

It looks very good. Light colours like that will hide defects from your eyes and makes it a lot easier to maintain.

It looks very good. Light colours like that will hide defects from your eyes and makes it a lot easier to maintain. will that depend on the color spectrum that the sun gives out? at a certain time some parts will be shady then some other parts wont... thats weird....

will that depend on the color spectrum that the sun gives out? at a certain time some parts will be shady then some other parts wont... thats weird....

Light colours will always be easier to maintain than dark colours. It doesn't really change depending on the time of day.

My standard recommendation is to wash at least every two weeks. It helps to keep the grime down on the lower half of the vehicle.
every two weeks i wash about every three days most of the time lol.

Tyler, I see from the pic, you tape off. When I used the 3M blue tape on my Titan, it did something weird to the black rubber strip just below the side windows. It is hard to describe but looks like some thing soaked into the rubber and swelled it up while having all these debossed eratic lines running through it. Any idea on what it is? This has reduced over time but not all the way to original.

Tyler, I see from the pic, you tape off. When I used the 3M blue tape on my Titan, it did something weird to the black rubber strip just below the side windows. It is hard to describe but looks like some thing soaked into the rubber and swelled it up while having all these debossed eratic lines running through it. Any idea on what it is? This has reduced over time but not all the way to original.

It would help a lot if you were to include a picture. :)

I messed up. I debadged my truck and being the impatient type I used a fine green scrubbing pad to remove the adhesive that was stuck to the truck. The end result is a scratched up section approximately 4"x4" on both left front and right fender. My truck is white, the spot looks beige and is noticeable. I have tried to wax it but it doesn't help. How can I cover this up without having to repaint the whole fender?

I messed up. I debadged my truck and being the impatient type I used a fine green scrubbing pad to remove the adhesive that was stuck to the truck. The end result is a scratched up section approximately 4"x4" on both left front and right fender. My truck is white, the spot looks beige and is noticeable. I have tried to wax it but it doesn't help. How can I cover this up without having to repaint the whole fender?

As long as you didn't do anything nasty like penetrate the base coat (http://apollodetailing.com/services/paintcorrection/index_files/blocks_image_3_1.png), then the damage is easily repairable.

Follow this guide and your finish will be as good as new:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1516

Although the defect they are removing is different, the process is exactly the same. I highly recommend you substitute M105 for ScratchX. Follow up on this by applying a wax to protect your paint.

I hope this helps. :)

Just curious if you have ever used Sonus products?

maybe you can help what do usually use to get stains out of tan leather my biggest problem is blue jean dye.

Just curious if you have ever used Sonus products?

I have not used Sonus products in particular. If you are thinking about their foam pads, they use identical foam to Lake Country, Meguiar's, 3M etc.

maybe you can help what do usually use to get stains out of tan leather my biggest problem is blue jean dye.

It all depends on how much the stain has set in. Try wiping with a MF or Terry Cloth towel and an APC. You may have to increase aggression and work in the product. When the stain has been removed, follow up by wiping the area dry and apply a leather conditioner to re-moisten it (the APC will dry it slightly).

I'll kick it off. I have a 2007 Shelby GT and although with my Porter Cable, levelers and quality wax I can make her shine, I can not get the "cobwebs" out of the black paint. Now I know black is not a color but a full time job but I'm stumped.
I order my leveler through topoftheline.com. Claybar does not help either.

The Car:
http://a607.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/3/l_6c6990c651bbf3e68fa40f8099a29b96.jpg

Examples of my waxing: (It's Texas, I can never get rid of the dust)
http://a115.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/67/l_e1d57beb5c340ed7a8eaa02506c28812.jpg
http://a590.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/83/l_8fa58b91a270036d148666520c690e85.jpg

Rear quarter panel reflection. The car is ~12' away and the camper ~18'.
http://a630.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/119/l_fde2b4c5cfd10f932a0832728318bfdd.jpg


If I park under the fluorescent lights at the barn it almost brings a tear to my eye from all the super fine scratches which shine like neon. What's your suggestion?

Menzerna are the best polishing products I've ever used and they work great with the Porter Cable. I would go with the intensive polish first and then the final polish, there are lots of instructions on that same web site on how to use both with the porter cable and which pads to use with them, good luck.

http://www.properautocare.com/meninpol.html

Menzerna are the best polishing products I've ever used and they work great with the Porter Cable. I would go with the intensive polish first and then the final polish, there are lots of instructions on that same web site on how to use both with the porter cable and which pads to use with them, good luck.

http://www.properautocare.com/meninpol.html

It's not as simple as that. Detailing is 90% process and only 10% product. I always advise people to work on their technique first, and then worry about improving it with better quality products when the time comes.

I colleague of mine said it best....

sure Vintage is rad, but if they screw up the prep it won't matter if they coat it in pure white carnauba picked from trees that bloom every ten years during a full moon; it will still look like ***.

I own a 2004 Titan and just started to have trouble this year with it starting in cold weather. I have to start it 3 or 4 times before it fires. Does anyone know what the problem is? Thanks for any and all help.

I own a 2004 Titan and just started to have trouble this year with it starting in cold weather. I have to start it 3 or 4 times before it fires. Does anyone know what the problem is? Thanks for any and all help.

This is the Ask a Professional Detailer thread, in the Detailing forum. I think you may have more luck with your problem in the correct forum.

It's not as simple as that. Detailing is 90% process and only 10% product. I always advise people to work on their technique first, and then worry about improving it with better quality products when the time comes.

I colleague of mine said it best....Auto detailing can be complex to be sure and I'm not trying to over simplify it, but I am betting that most folks with a random orbital and some Menzerna can get great results, even with limited or no experience provided they have a standard clearcoat and not ceramic which may take a higher speed, more aggressive device which I would not recommend to the armature.

If we are talking light scratches and swirls, I have found the Porter Cable and Menzerna products to be a dream to use. A lot of figure 8's and plenty of patience have yielded excellent results for me on minor paint damage. Menzerna...pure polish with no petroleum additives or fillers, water soluble and paint-able, treat yourself to some today, it's sinfully good stuff, lol.

The advantage an armature detailer has over a professional is time. If all an armature is concerned about is detailing their vehicle and are willing to spend an entire weekend doing it, I feel confident that most people can get quite satisfactory results provided they seek advice online from those such as yourself and sites like the one I linked to. The last thing a person wants to do though is to take it to a detailer in too big a hurry, after all, how many of us have seen buffer tracks all over a beautiful car from someone unwilling to take the time required to do it right or because they just didn't use the high speed buffer correctly.

Make no mistake though folks, detailing and especially polishing, even with a random orbital can be hard work so pack a lunch.

man i wish i knew how to use the polishing machines...i wax my truck by hand but would love to be able to use a machine to buff and polish and shine....maybe we need to go back to nicks and him and gary can use that polisher on my truck lol

man i wish i knew how to use the polishing machines...i wax my truck by hand but would love to be able to use a machine to buff and polish and shine....maybe we need to go back to nicks and him and gary can use that polisher on my truck lol
If you you park your truck at my house with 200.00 in the glove box and pick it up three days later, the truck will look better than new and your 200.00 will be MIA, lol.

LOL!!!!!!!! i bet

It looks very good. Light colours like that will hide defects from your eyes and makes it a lot easier to maintain.

Amen...why I bought a black truck, I'll never know! :puke:

Amen...why I bought a black truck, I'll never know! :puke:

Awww come on E, you know darn well why you bought Black!!! It's simply the most elegant, fastest, and sexiest of them all.........

Amen...why I bought a black truck, I'll never know! :puke:

On the flip side, Black is the most reflective of all the colours and when it is clean and polished, it is the beautiful colour you can possibly have. ;)

On the flip side, Black is the most reflective of all the colours and when it is clean and polished, it is the beautiful colour you can possibly have. ;)I agree but I don't have any luck with Klasse on black unless I top coat it with carnuba wax which is a pain. My wife wanted a black Tahoe and even though I told her it would be a pain to keep nice, she didn't like the other colors so I'm stuck with it.

Have you used a one step polymer that's easy to apply with a damp sponge like the Klasse that doesn't tend to look smeared when applied by hand?

I like to just wipe something on and wipe it off because being in Florida with the love bugs, it's nice to be able to touch up the front end with a one step product like the Klasse AOI.

I agree but I don't have any luck with Klasse on black unless I top coat it with carnuba wax which is a pain. My wife wanted a black Tahoe and even though I told her it would be a pain to keep nice, she didn't like the other colors so I'm stuck with it.

Have you used a one step polymer that's easy to apply with a damp sponge like the Klasse that doesn't tend to look smeared when applied by hand?

I like to just wipe something on and wipe it off because being in Florida with the love bugs, it's nice to be able to touch up the front end with a one step product like the Klasse AOI.

Wax of any kind doesn't really add a lot of gloss to paint so you're setting your levels of expectation far too low by just waxing your truck. It needs a polish!

Why not try out this guide?

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2965

Wax of any kind doesn't really add a lot of gloss to paint so you're setting your levels of expectation far too low by just waxing your truck. It needs a polish!

Why not try out this guide?

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2965Understood and I told the same thing to a club member just the other day. I told him the only thing a wax can add to a finish is depth but never clarity.

What I'm talking about is when a polymer tends to leave smears that are visible on dark colors when applied by hand whereas a carnuba won't leave visible smears when applied in the same weather.

What I'm looking for is a polymer product that lasts in the Florida heat, can be applied with a damp microfiber like the Klasse AOI but won't leave smears or haze on dark colors like the Klasse does. I suppose it's due to the humidity down here but do you have any suggestions on what may work better when applied in humid conditions in regard to smearing than the Klasse AOI?

Understood and I told the same thing to a club member just the other day. I told him the only thing a wax can add to a finish is depth but never clarity.

What I'm talking about is when a polymer tends to leave smears that are visible on dark colors when applied by hand whereas a carnuba won't leave visible smears when applied in the same weather.

What I'm looking for is a polymer product that lasts in the Florida heat, can be applied with a damp microfiber like the Klasse AOI but won't leave smears or haze on dark colors like the Klasse does. I suppose it's due to the humidity down here but do you have any suggestions on what may work better when applied in humid conditions in regard to smearing than the Klasse AOI?

There is a similar product made by Optimum called Poli-Seal. It has a slight abrasive level to it so it should be applied by PC at speed level '6'. It must be worked into the paint and removed like any polish. It's not a wipe-on, wipe-off product. It's more like a wipe-on, work-in product. When you're finished, remove, and follow up with a sealant such as its companion product, Opti-Seal. Unfortunately, AIO type products like Poli-Seal and Klasse AIO provide minimal protection and should be followed up with their companion products to provide lasting protection.

There is a similar product made by Optimum called Poli-Seal. It has a slight abrasive level to it so it should be applied by PC at speed level '6'. It must be worked into the paint and removed like any polish. It's not a wipe-on, wipe-off product. It's more like a wipe-on, work-in product. When you're finished, remove, and follow up with a sealant such as its companion product, Opti-Seal. Unfortunately, AIO type products like Poli-Seal and Klasse AIO provide minimal protection and should be followed up with their companion products to provide lasting protection.Good advice to be sure, what I like about the Klasse type products is that a detail spray can be used over the top of them with ease and you can layer that for more protection. This truck is just so huge that ease of use is paramount for me with any products and looking at the Optimum, it certainly offers that. I was also browsing the web today for anything new and found Menzerna making a similar product as the Optimum in that it has polish in it as well.

It looks like I may have to break down and get the buffer out now and then to use the Optimum or the Menzerna one step stuff but I think I'll only do that every 2nd or third time and in between I'll still use the Klasse on my truck.

On the wife's black truck it looks as though the only way I will keep the smear bear at bay is to get out the buffer and apply a polymer that way because the hand method is just not cutting it on black for me.

Thanks for the advice and have fun when you visit the U.S.

Hey Brian, "Black paint is not a color; it's a part-time job!!!!" I do love black but it's a labor of love...

Hey Brian, "Black paint is not a color; it's a part-time job!!!!" I do love black but it's a labor of love...Lol, you got that right and with as nice as you keep your truck, it may even be a full time job for a guy like you my friend.

ya Gary's TL is black, so between keeping his truck spotless and keeping up with the black TL, he's gow a lot of work to do on weekends lol...man i've never been into this stuff but and just starting to want to know what works best on my truck and use...it made a huge Christmas list of products from Adams....but i guess i need a polish too.....so you have to wax then polish?? jeez man, i thought just waxing the mini school bus was time consuming, now i have to polish too?? lol...it'll be worth it i guess though....i'm gonna get some stuff from Adam's but would love to know some good products that i can pick up and try....i know that stuff Gary748R used on my black trim is a must