While performing a reconnaissance mission for the installation of my PMLI extra capacity differential cover I made a disturbing discovery. The design of the rear axle vent was unacceptable (to me) due to the possibility of water intrusion while 4 wheeling or at a boat ramp. The factory vent is basically a check valve that vents pressure to atmosphere (See Fig. 1). This type of vent invariably fails at some point in time and could allow the rear axle to become contaminated. A second problem, IMHO, is that when the axle cools with this type of vent it holds a vacuum inside the axle. This vacuum pulls in on the seals and when you resume driving the seals are being pulled extra hard into the shafts possibly causing extra seal wear. Now there are some types of seals that require pressure or vacuum to work, these are not they.

I consulted the Mickey Mouse engineering handbook and combined it with the “I slept in a Holiday Inn Express” attitude and came up with the following: First was a trip to Ace Hardware and the AutoZone. I purchased a 1/8MPT thread to hose adapter from the ACE. Much to my surprise that is the correct size. Next it was off to the AutoZone for six feet of 5/16 fuel line and a cheap fuel filter (no check valve style). See fig2. I chose to put a filter on there as a deterrent for dirt, dust and debris from getting into the vent tube and it was cheap so what the heck.

I then removed the stock breather and installed the adapter to the axle with a dab of sealant on the threads. I then clamped and routed the hose up into the right, rear taillight area and used some wire ties to keep it in place. Note; be sure to leave plenty of extra line between the axle and your first tie. There needs to be enough to allow for axle movement, especially extension. Fig 6 shows a good place run a tie in the taillight area.

The whole job was relatively quick, easy and well worth it for my needs. I did have a quick look at the front axle vent and it appears to be good. I’m pretty sure it’s the long tube that dumps right below the engine air filter box. I still need to figure out the transmission vent and transfer case vent…

Hope this was of interest and to the moderators, if this should have been put in the 'how to' please move it as you see fit.

:D

Nice Plane!!!!!!!!!!!!

:D :D :D

Chief

It's great fun... RV6A is the type.

One of my old buds used to fly a small one. It was a '69 4 seater with wings on the bottom. I went up a few times. It was great!!!!!!!

He sold it and went to flight school. Now he flies the big ones for USAir. He says it's just not the same :D :D :D

I can only imagine the difference :roll:

That's a really nice mod you got there. Well thought out and with the below par rating of the rears so far, it's a great idea!!!!!

Mine went Boom at 3500 miles. The nice cover and synthetic could pull it thru, but I'll always see it as a bandaid whether it holds up or not. I have a feeling that as time goes by, more will fail.

Chief

Has yours been upgraded to the 05 cover?

Awesome post CJ3 and an excellent idea. Do you mind if I move this to the How-To area? This mod would appear to be a "must do" if you're in to heavy off-roading, or even going down boat ramps where the rear axle could become submerged. Thanks for posting this!!! :notworthy: :notworthy:

Please do, I'd be honored :dance2:

Yeah, this is a great post! Nice vent work!

It's in the how-to section now. Thanks again for this awesome mod. I think I need to make a list of the stuff you bought and do this one to my truck too...

Has yours been upgraded to the 05 cover?

Yes CJ. At 3500 miles it just started crunching. Luckily I was less than 1 mile from home. The dealer took it from there and just put in a whole new '05 rear, brakes included. They never would tell me what exactly broke. I have the E-Locker. I was kinda tough on the first one, but it was filled proper and so that's still not a good reason to fail. I'm the only one I know of who had this happen, although a FEW others have had problems and replacement due to noise, humming, and cover paint/fluid burning from excess heat.

Chief

That's a great mod. Those check valves are junk. My CJ5 used them and I ended up changing all of my gear oil every time I played in the water. I don't think I'll take my heated leather seats as deep as I did the Jeep, but your mod is a must do.

Somehow I missed this great little mod. 8O Thanks CJ3....it's now officially on my TTD list!

Somehow I missed this great little mod. 8O Thanks CJ3....it's now officially on my TTD list!

No doubt, I found mine stuck in the down/Nonvented position and may have caused my axle seal to seep.

So, that's it...this mod is OFFICIALLY named:


CJ3 Axle Vent Mod :lol:

hmmm, maybe thats y mine is seapin a little too, mmhmmmmmmm

CJ3 Axle Vent Mod

Sounds Just Right :wink:

Thats exactly what we do on our Blazers that we 4X... those filters work great and are cheap... thanks for the "How To" write up!

:bling: :amazing: Wow guys! I haven't looked at this in a while, I'm honored! CJ3 Axle Vent Mod, wow! In the company of such greatness to be bestowed such an honor is incredible!



:roflmao:

Did you build the plane? How long did it take? 0-320 or 0-360? I was looking into building.

360 w/ fixed pitch. I was around but my boss and his buddy built it. Money was no object, it's a gorgeous example.

great mod and name. its on my to do list with much other stuff......nice plane too...thanks for your pics and time!!

:oops: OK sooo for those of us who aren't or rather haven't done alot of off-roading and so never ran into this type issue, what about a return line? I see the line running from the new axle vent but don't see return from the filter. Also, won't the filter inhibit reciprical breathing, causing the same situation as the original (axle vents, no air is allowed back in resulting in a vacuum)? :? Like I said I am a novice and only going on what seems like a logical course of events based on my limited knowledge.

:oops: OK sooo for those of us who aren't or rather haven't done alot of off-roading and so never ran into this type issue, what about a return line? I see the line running from the new axle vent but don't see return from the filter. Also, won't the filter inhibit reciprical breathing, causing the same situation as the original (axle vents, no air is allowed back in resulting in a vacuum)? :? Like I said I am a novice and only going on what seems like a logical course of events based on my limited knowledge.

Ok, it doesn't have a return line. The air is drawn from the little short line attached to the filter.

And the filter won't inhibit anything because the air is flowing through that.

Does that make sense?

Think so... Guess what seems logical ain't always so...

This is a great simple mod. I am going to do it for one reason. I changed my rear diff fluid last week and when I opened the diff cover, it spewed air. That is right it hissed and the fluid was at the right level. This really bothered me because if the axle cannot vent, the air will get out one way or another, which means blown seals.

When I grabbed a hold of the check valve, it was stuck in the closed position. I tried to pull it up and it would not raise. I do not know if it had gotten bent while doing all of the dynos that i have done in the last couple of months or what, but it appeared to be ok from the outside. After taking it out, I finally got the valve loose and I went ahead and replaced it. But after seeing this mod, I know what I will be doing this weekend. Thank you very much.

Has anyone else purchased the barbed fitting for the axle? I can't seem to find this part at the hardware.

Did you try a store that sells air compressors & air hoses etc.?
I have found fittings of that type at Lowes by the air compressors.
Also, at Sears.

nice find.

I bought a similar fitting at Napa but the treaded end is what I'm having a hard time matching.

I like this mod....add another one to the list!

I bought a similar fitting at Napa but the treaded end is what I'm having a hard time matching.
Me too.

Here is what I picked up today, just like the original post said. I tried threading it into the axle tube with absolutely no luck. Wasn't going to wreck the threads trying either. The factory one threaded in and out like a champ, so I am 100% certain the part I have is the incorrect piece.

***EDIT**** After looking closely at the reciept again, it says 1/8"MPT and the original post says 1/8" MIP. Do you think SEARS would have the correct part seeing how they deal in air compressors?? The two different thread types look extremely similar.


HELP!!!!

on the one I bought the threads were a little to big so i cut them down and works like a champ.

on the one I bought the threads were a little to big so i cut them down and works like a champ.

How might I accomplish that? With a die?

The thread lines were perfect no problems there just to tall of threads I used a file and dremel with a grinding bit to cut them down I'm sure you could use something else but thats what I had laying around. The part from ACE hardware that I used was 47081 if that helps any.

I just used the factory vent. Pry the cap off with a small screwdriver and get some 3/8 fuel line and a hose clamp. Seems to be working just fine.

I must say this is a great mod. I must also say that my axle did not have a vent in it, all it had was a plastic threaded plug, no vent at all when I removed it, the axle had at least 30 psi of air trapped and expanding in it. I removed the plug and the air rush out of the hole was so great that it literally whistled and decompressed for at least 3 or 4 seconds! HMMMMM, I wonder why rear axle seals are failing?

I purchased the recommended Toyota nipple and parts listed in this thread. They all worked well, no issues at all with the installation. I made sure to leave a jounce and rebound coil in the vent hose using the natural curvature of the hose to create it. I then followed the factory wire harness to the rear of the truck using its clips to provide the support for the vent hose. I also placed two feet of convolute on the hose to insure that it would not chaff on any of the sheet metal or the bed mounts. The hose was tight enough that it really did not need any hose clamps to hold the filter on. It will need to be cut off if I ever need to change it. All in all this should save my rear axle seals from failing, I’m surprised they had not failed with the amount of air pressure residing in it.

I would like to do this mod using the Toyota part but I want to make sure I have the correct part number. It looks like the part number could be either "AB2-11-F9" and/or "90404-51026". Can anyone verify this?

Does anyone know what the Toyota part number is for the adapter? It looks like it might be "AB2-11-F9" and/or "90404-51026".

Would this be advisable for a 2wd also?

Ive done it on my 2wd BBF I didn't have any trapped pressure like other members but I did the mod to be on the safe side and still no leaking seals.

Would this be advisable for a 2wd also?

It would be advisable for any TITAN that has ever been produced. It's the way Nissan should have done it in the first place.

Does anyone know what the Toyota part number is for the adapter? It looks like it might be "AB2-11-F9" and/or "90404-51026".

The toyota part number is the 90404-51026 in Vectors picture.

I'm reasearchng this mod as I'm not 100% happy with the American threaded solution listed in first post. Well it worked after grinding down threads it still is not perfect as I would like.

I was able to determine that the size of the hole is M10 x1.0 pitch. I have also found that there is a Nissan part number that may work as well. I'm going to visit the dealer tomorrow to see if it is in stock and works.

38323-C6010 Nissan Part Number price around $4.

I may have GM throttle body sucking in air but the sound of the toyota part speuwing out the backside sounds great....lol

First thanks CJ for mod.

I bought the NPT parts and made them work by grinding down the threads. However I'm not 100% happy. So....

This is what I found out today. The thread size and pitch is M10 x1.0.

I also found that the Toyota part number is 90404-51026 as seen in Vectors pics.

There is a Nissan Part number that I will try to find at dealer tomorrow. If it works we have Nissan part to use.

My crazy mind is siting thinking...if the Nissan part does not work out. I have a GM TB sucking in lifes air and then toyota part spuewing out the backside...LOL

testing thread

This looks like a good mod IMO

90404-51026 is the Toyota's part number and I would recommend a 2wd do this mod also as this is for the rear axle.

Here are some updated P/N's courtesy of RBsTitan along with a photo!!

Does anyone know what the Toyota part number is for the adapter? It looks like it might be "AB2-11-F9" and/or "90404-51026".

"90404-51026"

I must say this is a great mod. I must also say that my axle did not have a vent in it, all it had was a plastic threaded plug, no vent at all when I removed it, the axle had at least 30 psi of air trapped and expanding in it. I removed the plug and the air rush out of the hole was so great that it literally whistled and decompressed for at least 3 or 4 seconds! HMMMMM, I wonder why rear axle seals are failing?

I was looking over a list of TSB's the other day, and I found a TSB about that plastic cap. I had read this thread earlier that day.

have you had your rear end replaced? I wonder how many times the show has forgot to replace the breather and left the plastic plug in place...
NTB06-027a
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/images/icon/download.gif2004-2006 NISSAN TITAN; 2005-2006 NISSAN XTERRA; 2005-2006 NISSAN FRONTIER; REAR FINAL DRIVE BREATHER
The new Rear Final Drive (RFD) assembly from the parts department will come with a temporary plug instead of the breather. The temporary plug MUST be removed and discarded, and the Breather from the original axle assembly MUST be removed and installed in the new assembly.

Done today, took 15 minutes. Thanks Randy for the part numbers.:D

Thanks for the info guy's, that was easy. I did add a screen to prevent bugs from plugging the line.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l159/Learjetpilot/P1010016.jpg

got it done, added a screen over the end of the filter for a little added protection from bugs.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l159/Learjetpilot/P1010016.jpg

The dealership put on a new breather valve but I'm still not happy with it so I started to take it out and I noticed that the threads are a little stripped, is the proper tap M10 x 1.0 pitch? thanks

WAY COOL...I am going to do that to my Titan. Besides that, there is a service recal from National Highway Safety to replace breeders on all Titans, Also, it is a well known problem for Nissan and a service bulletin has been issued by National Highway Traffic Safety Adm. See http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov and look up service bulletins:

Service Bulletin Number : 06027 Date of Bulletin : MAR 24, 2006
NHTSA Item Number : 10019623