Here is the progress I'm making on my sub box upgrade. 2 sealed compartments .3863 cu.ft. internal volume (8W3v2 requires .375) mid-shelf to support 250/1 amp. 1 1/2" clearance to floor. Painted bottom & back with grey textured enamel. Top, sides & front wil be laminated in Wilsonart Slate Grey. I have the amp ($182.00 new from ebay List price is $399.00) good deal but void JL warranty. Still waiting on speakers, wiring kit, Navone low level adapter & pulse trigger, and terminal cups. Will update progress when install begins.

Pics continued, if anyone wants to make this, the size is 50" long x 10" deep. Middle shelf is 17" and 4" up from bottom. Diagram shows side view specs.

looks good. you're definitely a woodworker from what I see there.

so the internal width of 1 box is 14 7/8" ? which is 15 5/8" wide ?

I want to make just 1 side before the middle hump for me.

Actually, I wound up making the internal length 15", plus each side 3/4" thus exterior length 16 1/2" x 2 = 33" (both speaker boxes), plus 17" for the amp platform, total 50"

Man that looks real good. I am carpeting the one I made for my kingcab right now. I am going with 10W3s instead of 8s though. No amp rack on mine, needed the airspace. Don's worry about voiding the JL warranty. I was reading one of their manuals for a sub or something and it said 1 yr warranty if installed by a licensed JL dealer and 90 days if you do it yourself. 90 Days! Thats dumb if you ask me. Not worth the hundreds of extra dollars. I am gonna power my 10s with the e1400D though to save some money (500/1 is like double the price and 250/1 might underpower them). What are you doin about speakers and stuff?

What are you doin about speakers and stuff?
Thanks, I planned this carefully. I talked to a rep at JL, and they said that because I bought my amp on the internet and not an authorized JL dealer, they can't honor the warranty because they have no way of knowing where the amp went once it is out of the hands of the dealer, however, the rep said that on the amp, the service charge is less than what I saved buying on ebay so the worst case scenario is I wind up at the dealer price (if something goes wrong). The speakers are 8W3v2 and I saved $30.00 each buying from acaraudio.com, same deal with warranty, but the JL rep said its $80.00 to fix 'em and that includes a whole new rebuilt sub. I don't know how you're finding the room to mount those 10s, it was way too tight for me with the KC, and don't forget, minimum internal volume of that box must be .66 cu.ft.or you might damage them. The imput for my amp will come from the stock DVC sub leads, with a navone in-line adapter NV-7 to convert the high level signal to low level RCA and 9.5 volt. Cleanest signal possible, and to avoid ripping the dash apart to get a turn-on signal I'm using the N-907 pulse trigger, which taps any speaker lead to get +12v. A JL tech told me that even though the speakers are rated at 125w RMS, the 250/1 is perfect. The drivers can handle them no prob. but I will be level setting with the autosound cd, to be sure they don't get overdriven & stressed. Very important for clean undistorted bass and system balance. Stay tuned.

Nice work guys. :D

Hey man, nice work, I wish I had a shop like that. I tried making one but screwed up on the mesurements, is it alright if I use yours? Will that fit on the Crew Cab?
I have 1 700w amp to use for my subs, can I put an amp attached to that piece?

Goval, if you're using a 700w RMS amp (mono I assume), you will first of all need some serious thumpers of which I doubt you will find in the 8" variety unless you go competition level. You would do well with the JL 10W3s but you won't likely be mounting the amp as I am, due to the extra needed volume of the boxes, unless you increase the depth of the boxes, at the expense of rear passenger leg room (but how often will that come into play?).
You should check out ecbmxr's box. He used that center space for added box volume, I think .62 Cu.ft. per side, which is just under the recommended volume for the 10, but poly-fil can remedy that. You'd probably have to stick the amp under the front pass seat. Also, if you use JL 10w3s, make sure you get the level set right as not to clip and ruin your subs. What system is in your sled? Upgraded aftermarket or RF premium stock? I'm good with my RF system, just want the option of listening at lower volumes and still feel bass. But as well, if I want to rattle my bones at times, I have that potential too, although not to the extent of ridiculous, like some. I've had my fill of overly loud music in my younger years, playing in bands, and I have a very broad range of musical tastes, so for the most part, the stock head unit and speakers works fine for me. I also am keeping the stock sub under the seat, since its there already. My box is done and fits great with no seat restrictions or rubbing. Also my boxes allow sound out all sides, so it will be interesting to have omni-directional lows, so it sounds like all the stock speakers are producing bass. Also, my KUDA ipod base is mounted, so soon I'll cop a 20 or 40GB mp3/jpeg player to dump my whole music collection into. I'll have more pics, as things progress.. Out!
:moonwalk:

I got all aftermarket. My speakers are 3 way pioneers. right now I only have a 300 watts pioneer where my speakers are connected to through my DVD player control unit. I was planning on switching the amps making the 700 for the speakers and the 300 for the subs. I alrwady have my inverters under my passenger side and the DVD control unit under the driver side.