Here's my completed homemade stealth box. It's built like a brick #$%& house. The only things I'm still waiting on are the 2 JL 8W3v2 drivers that are going to outfit this puppy. The rep told me that as of last Monday they were in the shipping dept. but still no tracking no. Talk about backed up!! All pre-wiring on box is done, and hopefully cab wiring will be Sunday, (weather permitting). Since I'm wiring the drivers each in series, the total power handling will be 250 watts, perfect for this Slash amp. Has anybody gotten through the firewall with their power wire in any location other than the area shown in NKTitan's pics? Has anyone drilled a hole and used a grommet? I'm trying to find the easiest spot.

SWEEEET!!!!!!
Can't wait to Hear them!!!

damn it i want one, rather have 10's tho, but its still awsome

That is TIGHT!!! I want you to build you one for me!!! My location worked the best for me...and it was MEGA easy. I used a grommet and it's sharp!

I just used the factory hole under the steering wheel. I pulled the rubber stopper and punced a whole in it so it serves as the grommet. Worked pretty well.

Hey what kind of wood did you use? I'm going to try building a box one last time, but I'm going to take my time though, I need to know the best material to use.

Hey what kind of wood did you use? I'm going to try building a box one last time, but I'm going to take my time though, I need to know the best material to use.
3/4" MDF is the best material to use. It is super rigid and will resist flexing, whereas regular flakeboard will not hold up to the internal pressures of the sub, especially if your pushing 300 watts or more. Use gobs of wood glue, and coarse thread drywall srews (1 5/8") make sure you drill 11/64" holes through first board along with countersink bevels, then clamp to adjoining board and continue through the previous holes and into the second board with 3/32" drill bit, as the MDF will split easily if you don't, then during final assembly, shoot a nice bead of titebond wood glue on the joint and screw it tight. Also before you join the final board to each enclosure, use phenoseal or silicone caulk to seal the joints air-tite. Once you join the final board, you can seal the final joints through the baffle hole. I had to use my finger for the most part because the caulk gun was hard to get in there. I primed the bottom and back of my box and then used a rough texture gray paint. For the tops, front & sides I laminated in Wilsonart Slate Gray. I preferred this rather than carpet, which is prone to stains & dust accumulation. I usd 3/8" nylon spacers between the amp and deck area, to facilitate extra air flow under amp.

Hey what kind of wood did you use? I'm going to try building a box one last time, but I'm going to take my time though, I need to know the best material to use.
3/4" MDF is the best material to use. It is super rigid and will resist flexing, whereas regular flakeboard will not hold up to the internal pressures of the sub, especially if your pushing 300 watts or more. Use gobs of wood glue, and coarse thread drywall srews (1 5/8") make sure you drill 11/64" holes through first board along with countersink bevels, then clamp to adjoining board and continue through the previous holes and into the second board with 3/32" drill bit, as the MDF will split easily if you don't, then during final assembly, shoot a nice bead of titebond wood glue on the joint and screw it tight. Also before you join the final board to each enclosure, use phenoseal or silicone caulk to seal the joints air-tite. Once you join the final board, you can seal the final joints through the baffle hole. I had to use my finger for the most part because the caulk gun was hard to get in there. I primed the bottom and back of my box and then used a rough texture gray paint. For the tops, front & sides I laminated in Wilsonart Slate Gray. I preferred this rather than carpet, which is prone to stains & dust accumulation. I usd 3/8" nylon spacers between the amp and deck area, to facilitate extra air flow under amp.

Awesome! I'm going to design my box at CAD school this Monday.
Looking to start it next weekend. My previous try I used carpet, and you're right, don't look that good comparing to what you used.
Your box looks realy good!

Really nice work!! very clean.

Great work man, looks awesome!

Well I thought I had already posted a reply to this one but I see I didn't. You did an excellent job man. I really like this design. If I ever get around to doing this I will try to build one similar.
thanks for posting
M4ck

Very clean work. I would like to have 2 8" Kicker L7 Solo barics(spck) w/ about 500 watts pushing them. Wonder if a down firing box would work for the solos...will have to check.

Nice work. :fan2:

are those for 12's?

No 8" is all I can fit under there with down-firing. If I would have designed the box to fire up into the seat, which I'm opposed to, I could have angled the box outward in the back and fit 10s. But the bass will be better down-firing due to the omni directional sound waves, so it will sound as if bass is eminating from the whole cab. Make sense?

That looks very clean. However, I didn't see if your truck was king or crew? Does that box fit under the king rear? If it does, how much would you charge? lol

Nevermind, I'm stupid, but I'm also new to this site. I finally figured out what the KC stands for.

I'll pay you money for the Template!!

That looks awesome!
-any chance you wanna sell the template on a piece of manilla paper?

NICE setup

any chance you wanna sell the template on a piece of manilla paper?
On a previous post, I think its titled "sub upgrade progress" URL - boxhttp://www.clubtitan.org/posts6079-0.html&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
I show a diagram of the side dimensions, and in the text I think I indicated the length etc. but if you need a more detailed exploded type view, I could probably whip something up. I don't want any money, fellow club buds IMO are entitled to it. Just remember, this box is specifically designed for 8" JL Audio W3s, but would also work for other brand 8s if the mounting depth is within range and internal volume requirements are met. The center shelf is 17" long so most amps will probably fit. If you would like that detailed diagram, I'll draw it up. Just forward me your regular email address, and I'll scan & save the drawing as a jpeg, and you can open it with windows picture & fax viewer, then print. I also have a lot more pics, showing more detail if you need them. I just ordered 2 green neon 10" lights that will flank the amp on each inside top rake. It should look wicked. Peace... NP

I would love a copy of that if you don't mind. I just sent you a pm with my email address.

Great looking box btw congrats on the excellent work.

Blue _Water_Rush,

I came out with this schematic after going to my truck and taking the measurements. It has a gap between the top of the box and the bottom of the rear seat so it will have a sub movement space. The two little holes on each side are for the air to come out.

Can you look at it and confirm that the measurements are the same as far as fitting under the seat? I took a week and a half of vacation, and this is perfect time to do this with patience.
I have (2) 10" RF subs that are 200W each, and in the middle of the box I'm going to try putting the 2 amps I have, for the speakers and for the subs, both amps are small enough, so they'll probably sit one on top of the other one using a shelf, since I left the 2" clearance, I think it will fit.

Note: Don't bother the size of the little holes, they're actually 2" Diameter, I made a mistake whn I was editing the drawing in Photoshop

have (2) 10" RF subs that are 200W each, and in the middle of the box I'm going to try putting the 2 amps I have, for the speakers and for the subs, both amps are small enough, so they'll probably sit one on top of the other one using a shelf, since I left the 2" clearance, I think it will fit.
Wow, thats a good cad drawing. What did you use to model that, autocad? Have you calculated the internal volume of your box in cu. ft.? The drivers usually give the requirement in the specs. Just measure w x d x h and then divide by 1728. The number is in cubic ft. Also, if you think you're gonna stack 2 amps on the shelf, fa get a bot it!
Dude, there is just 3/4" of height clearance at the back of my amp (heat sinks) from the base of seat. And the JL Slash 250/1 monoblock class D amp is a compact amp. I wish you luck though. The shelf I fabbed almost touches the hump in the back, so what I wound up with was about 4" of height from shelf to seat in front, and 2 1/2" or so in the back. Another very important point: If you cut holes in the box "for air to escape" that defeats the whole purpose of a sealed box. If you're trying to create a ported enclosure, there is very specific criteria for doing so. It invloves creating a tunnel so to speak. If you want to learn all about enclosures go to jlaudio.com, then choose mobile audio, then support>tutorials>subsoofer enclosures.

Now I dig a sealed box, cause most of the music I enjoy has tight, accurate bass & mid-bass, so bass from a sealed enclosure hits hard & tight, where as from a ported, it is more efficient but lacks punch. It is more boomy and deep and muddy tones. Then the 30 Hz crowd uses the bandpass design which shoots the air from the sub into a ported enclosure, so the bass wallows out of the port. I don't think my cab could hold up to that.

That's some good info, thanks! I was measuring the subs, and it looks like I won't have enough space for the air to come out of the sub speaker on the bottom. 5.50" is what I have on the drawing, and that's exactly the size of the sub, so I'll have to bring the front side back up to 8".
Yeah, the amp thing was just a thought, I kind knew it wasn't going to work. I'm thinking of putting the speaker amp under the passenger side seat, and the subs amp with the box itself.

The drawing, I did it by hand, I'm taking Auto CAD at ITT Tech and learned some stuff, but didn't get the chance to re-do it on the program itself. I just scanned the drawing and edited in Adobe Photoshop.

Goval,
If you check out that site I mentioned, you'll see that for ported enclosures you need way more box volume, and the space under the seat in the KC is too small unless you extend the chamber of each box up over the hump and meet in the middle with a divider. Then you might get enough, but seeing as you have a crew cab thats a different story. You have the room to do it, as long as you put your amp under the front seat. It is very important to follow the guidelines concerning ported enclosures. The port is usually designed in such a way that the force of the negative air created inside the box is directed around the corner starting at the back of the fixed magnet, and then out the box adjacent to the sub. This is so it separates the air coming from the face of the driver from the air coming from the back side of the driver. This is so the in & out air pressures & soundwaves do not counteract one another, resulting in modulation, which would ruin your subs. As well as the tutorial for sub enclosures on JLaudio.com, if you click on subs, and pick a model, the owner's manual is included in a pdf, and box requirements & specs are on there... you'll see what I mean. Peace bro & pray for surf!
:learn:

hey blue water, if you would happen to have sum extra time, how much would you charge to build another one of them and ship it to NC?

tom

hmmm let's see.....
Eat lunch or build box for Tom?
Dude, I wish I had the time. I can't even go surfing hardly any more. Between running a business, countless home repair projects piling up, church ministry obligations etc. I barely had time to crank this one out. And it was like an hour here, an hour there. What I am gonna do though is make a more detailed drawing kinda like an exploded view, and I'll be delighted to send it to all my Titan peeps.
You guys rule!! Just PM me your regular e-mail and I'll send it to you. I should be able to draw it up sometime this week.
Peace, NP

ok, no big deal, i'll have to send you my email, and maybe my brain will work for me lol.

how about a materials list also in there, that'd be great cuz imma dumbass lol

thanks

imma dumbass lol
All the dumbasses I know can't create a web page, so consider yourself a "smart" dumbass, like me!
Nice web page and some trick mods. I'll get those specs. and material cut list to you asap.
Nick

:reallygood:
Excellent job!