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After market rim center cap stripped out

9K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  mytmax98 
#1 ·
Hello all,

I was installing my r1 concepts cross drilled / slotted rotors and new pads this weekend. Overall, the job was easy. Hardest part was changing the e-brake pads. However, I have aftermarket 22" rims and the screw that holds the center cap on was cross threaded by discount tire. They want to send it off to be repaired, but I am concerned about driving on new brakes in their break in period with two different size tires and different tread patterns when they put my spare on. The hole that the screw goes into is totally shot. The screw itself is still good, but useless. I was wondering if anyone knows how to fix it cheaply so I don't have to send it off? I have read where some people have used jb weld and just backed the screw out before it was completely set so that the threads can harden. I wouldn't know when to back them out. Someone else said that they used solder. I would think that would be too soft. Ideas? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Screw 'em. Have them buy you a new wheel. It was new when you brought it in, and they broke it, right? Why put yourself out, why should you do all the worrying? They broke it. You basically paid them to screw you. It's not their first rodeo. Get mad.
 
#3 ·
Post some pics?

If is just the center cap bolt, and the threads on the bolt are fine, chase the hole in the rim with the correct Tap. Your not cutting new threads, just straighting out the old ones.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the replies!

Dogman, I probably will make them do it, but I don't want to drive around on the spare right now and hate that I have one rim without the cap. If I can do it myself with little fairly little hassle, I will. Otherwise, they are doing it. Can't get a new rim because they no longer make this model.

04titan,
I thought about that, but much of the thread is missing. I'm not sure if there is enough to make a difference or not. I'm pretty sure that it would be fruitless.
 
#6 ·
Tuff break on no more rims. How about going one size over on the tap , either SAE or Metric, so it won't be that noticable? Same style scew in a larger size. Let a good machine shop do it in a few minutes, unless they they will TIG -low heat- weld it correctly. Is it chrome or polished aluminum?. Makes a difference.
 
#8 ·
That's why I'm not a fan of starting bolts with an impact wrench. It's fun to act like a NASCAR pitcrew member and slam bolts on. But it's just too easy to xthread them and you don't realize it until you take it off a lot of times.

If it's not too damaged, try recutting the threads for the existing size.

Is there enough room to drill out the hole to the next size up and recut threads for a larger bolt? A lot of times if it's metric you can switch to SAE or vice versa to step up to something that's large enough to allow you to recut threads but not too large.

Other option would be weld the hole closed (not JB Weld) and redrill and tap the hole. But the heat will damage the finish and it'll have to be refinished.

Maybe hit up DT - I'm sure they do it somewhat frequently. Maybe there's a fix they know of that's simple (like replacing it :) )
 
#9 ·
It is a chrome rim. Discount already said they would send it off. However, I was able to force it on. Apparently, the threads were only broken off for the first handful of loops. After I got past those, it threaded in easily. I am still going to have them send it off, but at least while I am breaking in my new brakes, I won't have to drive around without a center cap! Thanks everyone.
 
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