My JBA Header Install - Page 5 - Nissan Titan Forum
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#41 Old 08-02-2011, 01:29 PM
River Rat
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Originally Posted by 04offroadtitan View Post
How much harder is the install on a 4x4? If I can ever get the money to do it I want to install these on the new 2010 Pro-4x. Never installed headers and plan to do it myself so I can save the money.
hopefully someone that has done it on a 4x4 replies but from what i have read it is a little harder because there is more you have to disconnect i think i wrote it down im my right up as to what you have to do for 4x4 as well.

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07CC2WD Performance: 2* advance, S&B Ram Air Mod, Pro Street Spintech Exhaust, Relentless catch can, JBA shorties, Maganaflow cats, Uprev
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#42 Old 10-09-2011, 12:54 PM
icemanimports
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really need some advise on the driverside front bolt. the one under the a/c compressor. i cant get a wrench or ratchet to it. anybody know/remember how the hell they got the bugger out.
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#43 Old 10-13-2011, 11:06 PM
cayers1122
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The front most bolts were the easiest for me with my Doug thorleys. I just used a deep well 14mm 1/2"drive socket, a 3"extension then a swivel adaptor and then like a 6" or 10" extension and was able to get rite at them. I'm not sure if the jba is set up different and you have pipe in the way though. Good luck.
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#44 Old 10-14-2011, 06:38 AM
icemanimports
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Originally Posted by cayers1122 View Post
The front most bolts were the easiest for me with my Doug thorleys. I just used a deep well 14mm 1/2"drive socket, a 3"extension then a swivel adaptor and then like a 6" or 10" extension and was able to get rite at them. I'm not sure if the jba is set up different and you have pipe in the way though. Good luck.
tried a uni joint, tryied a swivel, i tried a box wrench. in the end i wound up takin a deep socket and cutting off about 3/8ths of an inch which made it fit perfect and it popped right off even though it was partially rounded.
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#45 Old 04-11-2012, 03:35 PM
challenger3x2
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I just received my JBA headers.. I was told a good shop/welder could install then in 8 hours.. So I drop it off soon.. Can't wait to get rid of manifold ticking noise..

06 Titan LE,4x4,Steel Leather,Red Alert,Big Tow,Factory Step Rails,Brush Gaurd,Floor Mat,Bed Extender.. Add On's- In Channel Window Vent,Rear Spoiler mounted on RollBak Retractable bed cover... 2 Deg Timing Mod.. AirRaid TBS... NISMO Cold Air Intake.. BullyDog GT III and FlowMaster cat back dual exhaust.. Drilled/slotted rotors and Evolution pads front and rear.. JBA headers, rear sway bar.
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#46 Old 11-05-2012, 07:51 PM
Titan 05
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FYI..

JBA Short Tube Headers are 50 State Legal / CARB Legal 2004-2013 5.6L Nissan Titan's and Armada's.

I attached the CARB letter I just received from JBA as I wanted to make sure the CARB number covered my new 13.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf EO Nissan &Toyota.pdf (134.5 KB, 146 views)
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#47 Old 11-24-2012, 09:46 PM
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Has anyone done the 4x4?
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#48 Old 10-18-2014, 11:31 PM
Bigj6360
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I just did this in my armada. I bought header and cat sets from bear river converters.

First off I am writing this on my phone. Sorry for any typos, auto corrects, and poor formatting. If you read something that makes no sense then I probably didn't mean it that way

The install process took a looong time, like 20 hours across two days.

Here are my notes.

1.If your replacement headers support heat shields, reuse them if you can. Some say it isn't that important, but there are some cables and wires down there and car companies put them there for a reason... I'm paranoid like that.

2. In addition to the 1/2 driver, get yourself a breaker bar. You will thanks yourself later.

3. O2 socket for removal. I have two different ones and neither of them could fit around base of the wire... I bought new ones up front so I cut the wires. The stubby I used didn't fit either. Where did you get your O2 sensor socket that fits around the wiring? My two are craftsman and autozone.

4. Heat shields: if you have any intention of reusing them, be patient. These take massaging to work out. I took them both down the bottom down along the cats. They will want to get caught on many things (like the motor mounts - see my notes on those - and cats). So don't be afraid to bend the units to make them work. Also get your self a rubber mallet so you can pound the out on the old headers so they will fit if you put them back in. This can be done. It just takes time. I worked at this for almost an hour before getting things just right so they could come out. Also, it is important to have the engine jacked up to help you remove these.

5. Motor mounts: I removed them for the drivers side removal and the installation in both sides, and boy it was a lot easier. As long as your engine is supported and jacked up they pop out fairly easily as single units. It also makes it easier to insert the headers and the shields.

Pop them up at the outside while you are underneath (think the square holes on top). That makes room for them to slide down along the block. ( I did one side at a time). Also if you motor isn't centered while on the jack one side will be difficult to remove so a centered engine is key. They go right back in... At least they did for me.

7. Manifold stud by AC lines (this is a bit fuzzy in my memory): I initially broke it lose with a breaker bar and deep well socket.. Then used 3/8" socket with deepwell 14mm. Then a few turns later I switched to a 1/2" socket with u-joint to finish off. If you turn too far you won't be able to remove your socket and will have to back it back in.

This will be a bit of a bugger to reverse, but should be doable with mostly the 1/2" and u-joint.

8. O2 socket for install: a no-go for me again. The NTK sensors I used were too thick at the base of the wire. I threaded the sensor with my hands with the headers installed and shields sitting loosely in position.
Then worked the shield slightly so I could squeeze a stubby wrench in to tighten the rest of the way.

Is there any way to get a torque reading on these? I couldn't... So I guessed.

9. Dip stick tube: be careful with this. I was, and somehow I still bent it very slightly. I have no idea how but the holding bracket ended up being 1mm off and I spent 30 minutes fighting with it to get it's bolt back in.

Regarding sound. The Bear rivers I used sound a bit more throaty under 2000 rpm and are a bit quieter at speed.

Also if your cats were clogged your truck will run much smoother. I was surprised how much better mine ran. I am talking at least 70k miles newer good.
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