Balanced? I'm confused. Why would this part need balanced? Also, how am I going to dyno test the 4wd to see if it is going to break or not? I guess I could hook the truck up to a tree or something of that nature and pull backwards until it breaks. That will be fun!
Yes, I was just kidding. WRP produced crankshaft pulleys that probably weren't balanced, were dyno tested under questionable circumstances and really didn't fulfill the purpose that the OEM pulley did.
I don't mean to crap on your idea with my sarcasm. After a number of Titan owners got burned pretty bad by WRP I'm a bit cynical. A stronger front differential is a good idea.
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Jim
Yes, I was just kidding. WRP produced crankshaft pulleys that probably weren't balanced, were dyno tested under questionable circumstances and really didn't fulfill the purpose that the OEM pulley did.
I don't mean to crap on your idea with my sarcasm. After a number of Titan owners got burned pretty bad by WRP I'm a bit cynical. A stronger front differential is a good idea.
I didn't really follow the pulley threads that much...not a big deal to me. My idea is that if it isn't broke, don't fix it; and the engine runs fine...thus the reason I say away from the extreme performance modification threads (I might get ideas...lol).
The good news is that there are other companies that make replacement u-joints for the Titan. I called down to my local Advanced Autoparts store and they had 3 of the premium u-joints on the shelf. So I spent my evening under my truck and the 4wd is not operational again. Although, I am now a little headshy about doing anything with the truck in 4wd (we just got 4" of snow here in KC yesterday). Sucks.
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). I will be shopping around for a machine shop that can make me some new clips out of a high carbon steel, and I will probably look at getting a company like High Angle Driveline to make me a stronger unit. First I'm going to try this: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rsview=sku&Ns=
The only problem I see with upgrading the u-joints, is a u-joint breaking sucks, but only takes 45 min tops to change. If the u-joint doesn't break, then you'd probably twist the driveshaft! That takes weeks to fix, not 45 min.
The Service manager at the dealership did a little digging and told me that the part number for the front diff has changed ( I'm not sure when) and as far as he knows they haven't seen any of the new ones back yet. He said that the ring would hit the case and push the axle out and that apparently they've done some modifications to the design so this doesn't happen. Time will tell if this make the problem any better.
i actually pulled a truck out in reverse no problem. but two nights ago the same truck just lifted on 35s now, i try to pull out in drive NOT reverse as ive done before to the same truck, my front diff grenaded..
anybody know a good place near jacksonville fl to get a fairly cheap new diff or used? thanks
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