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Mission: AUDIO OVERHAUL

106K views 202 replies 52 participants last post by  jeanphilippe64 
#1 ·
Greetings Guys & Gals,
In a previous thread, I posted the laminated mounting boards I fabbed for my underseat equipment, and today I gutted the cab and started the soundproofing. It was a beautiful breezy day, so I dove right in at 8am.

Pic 1: This is the driver's side power seat connector, and the airbag connector (not visible) which I unplugged.

Pic 2: Here's the pass. side connector block. The manual recommended disconnecting both battery terminals, and waiting at least 3 min. before disconnecting airbag circuits.

Pic 3: Both front chairs out, revealing the RF sub (which is history now).

Pic 4: Same deal, other side.

Pic 5: These 2 switches under the steering wheel operate my radar detector shutoff, and the neon lights which flank the amp deck of my sub box. These will now reside under the dash, lighting the floor. The switches will be replaced by lit orange switches, and moved to the lower portion of the Metra radio bezel.

Pic 6: I took a shot of the wiring layout inside the shift console, for reference, since all this stuff had to be removed.

I'm quite impressed with the way these trucks are wired. Discreet and straightforward, with easily accessible connectors (except for those pesky airbag connectors under the driver side, they were a b!tch) Also, unless you put the shift lever in neutral, it is very difficult removing the AT finisher. I found out too late, and had to remove the shifter bezel from underneath with a small socket (4 bolts). That, believe it or not, took the longest time. Argggh!!

(see next post...)
 

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#2 ·
Mission: AUDIO OVERHAUL (cont'd)

OK, moving on...

Pics 1 & 2: Console removed

Pic 3: My sub box removed. This is the first time you guys have seen the drivers, since when I built my sub box last year, I waited over a month before I got the drivers, so I figured I'd throw this shot in there.

Pic 4: Ceiling gutted. There is a lot of stuff to remove on the LE model. The panel tool is a must for all the trim and pillar removals.

Pic 5: All rear wall trim, seatbelts removed. When does the fun end? Whheeeww!

Pic 6: Carpeting removed (a little tricky, since I started all bolts back in their holes so I wouldn't lose them (bad habit of mine, especially on a stone driveway). Those wires hanging in mid-air over the dash are for the visor vanity mirror lights, overhead console lights & the auto-dimming rear view mirror. Man, I'm gettin' tired. When do the speakers go in? LOL
 

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#3 ·
Mission: AUDIO OVERHAUL (cont'd)

Pic 1: another shot of the gutted cab. You can see the seats and tubs full o' guts in the shed. Man, there is a lot of stuff in there!

Pic 2: Rolling on the Damplifier (thanks Ant). This stuff goes on great, and sticks like mad. I thought I'd save time by starting on the flat areas with full sheets (12" x 24"). This is real dangerous, as once you peel off the backing, the mat is real wavy, so I came up with a solution. I cut a piece of stiff cardboard (slightly smaller than the sheet), turned the sheet peel side up on top of the cardboard, peeled the backing off, and lifted the cardboard into position. Since the cardnoard was cut smaller, I could overhang the mat, to see the seam I had to line it up with, then gingerly press it in place, then roll and press. I only had to cut one area where there was an air bubble, then mash it out.

Pic 3: Three sheets complete and counting. (many more to go). The ceiling will have 1 layer, the floor and rear wall 2 layers. Tomorrow will be a long day of matting, then neoprene rubber.

Pic 4: I found the easiest way to cut it is with a sharp utility knife and straight edge (4 ft. level), over a flakeboard sheet.

Pic 5: I used a little PVC table as a stool to sit on for doing the ceiling. This really saved my back from later spasms.

Well thats it for now. Are ya sick of me yet? LOL. I know you guys are pic junkies, so now you're gonna get it! Stay tuned for further progress. This will likely go on for a couple weeks. Peace,

NP
 

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#4 ·
BWR... how much Damplifier and neoprene did you buy? I am figuring on about 250 sqft of damping and 10 yds of ensolite. I will do 1 layer on ceiling, rear wall and floor, 1 layer on door outside skin, layer both sides of inside skin, and 1 layer inside of trim. And of course Ensolite over all of that. with anything left over I was gonna line the door pockets, glove box, etc... and put anything else on the rear wall/floor.

So, how much are you using? and thanks for next week's preview of my truck!
 
#5 ·
holy cow, thats a chore that i would not want to do! great job and let us know how much a difference it makes?
 
#6 ·
You have earned ALOT of respect from me my friend! That was not a simple task and you are moving very well right through it. Keep us posted...
 
#7 ·
Now thats what i call an overhaul. If its going to be done right thats the way to do it!
 
#8 ·
Titanator said:
BWR... how much Damplifier and neoprene did you buy? I am figuring on about 250 sqft of damping and 10 yds of ensolite. I will do 1 layer on ceiling, rear wall and floor, 1 layer on door outside skin, layer both sides of inside skin, and 1 layer inside of trim. And of course Ensolite over all of that. with anything left over I was gonna line the door pockets, glove box, etc... and put anything else on the rear wall/floor.

So, how much are you using? and thanks for next week's preview of my truck!
Titanator,

I have 200 sq.ft. of Damplifier (65 mil butyl rubber dampening mat), 80 sq. ft. of Overkill (1/8" thick closed cell neoprene rubber foam), 4 Cascade Audio Deflex pads.

Damplifier: 1 layer on ceiling, 2 layers on floor and rear wall, one layer behind factory foam up firewall, 1 layer on inside of exterior door shells, then deflex rubber pads on area directly behind mid drivers, sheet metal to close all holes on inside of interior door shells, then 2 layers of Damplifier over that, completely sealing up door cavities (to create sealed sound enclosures).

Overkill: 1 layer on ceiling, floor, rear wall and door panels. Whatever is leftover will go behind plastic finishers (pillars, door, console).

Good luck with your project, you won't regret the extra work involved. It will create the best sound money can buy, and enhance the performance of your equipment. I want to be able to get in the truck, shut the door and have my ears ringing from the silence, LOL
 
#10 ·
Wanna do my truck next??? ;)
 
#12 ·
Learoy said:
Man that seems like alot of work. It looks really good and I cant wait to see the final product.
Make no mistake, IT IS!
 
#13 ·
PuvMan said:
Wanna do my truck next??? ;)
Puv, the last thing I needed to do right now was start this project, but if I didn't, the warranty on the equipment would run out soon, LOL. I got a lot of stuff going on right now.

I worked another 6 hrs. on it again today, and I'm not even on the floor yet. This is a lot of work. I don't even know if I'll have time this week to work on it, or even next weekend. I gotta get this thing on the road though. My work van is in bad shape (0-50 in about 60 sec.). Needs a tuneup bad!! It's like, I haven't even had time to go surfing yet this year. And there's a tropical storm poised to pull off the coast this week. I'm bummin' dude. Titan's down and out. LOL

When I get this project done, we gotta hookup and I'll let you hear it.
 
#14 ·
Wow, that is some impressive documentation. I am about to do an install myself but am balking at the idea of adding the wieght of the sound dampening. How much does all that wiegh?
 
#15 ·
Petey said:
Wow, that is some impressive documentation. I am about to do an install myself but am balking at the idea of adding the wieght of the sound dampening. How much does all that wiegh?
The total weight of the mat is 80 lbs. The neoprene rubber is probably only 8-10 lbs. The boards with amp etc. is probably another 40 lbs. Wiring maybe 10-15 lbs. I would estimate the mdf baffles I have yet to build will add another 10 lbs. total. So what's that, 150 lbs. Anyway who cares? This sled can tow 9,500 lbs. I'm mackin' LOL.
 
#16 ·
Yea man, i'd def like to see it when you're done, and even maybe hookup while you're working on it. I can help too if you'd like.

I'm ordering my amp and subs tomorrow, eD NINe.1 and 2 10 inch woofers...

Dont feel bad about your Titan being out of commisiion. I'd rather it be out of commision due to an audio install, than out of commision with a CLUNKING rear diff (like mine is right now!) haha
 
#17 ·
Hey all,
thought i would chime in to let you know the progress is slow on my sound-proofing, but moving along. Haven't had the time to git-R-dun as fast as I'd like, but I'm gettin' there. More pics coming soon. Stay tuned...
NP
:1245:
 
#18 · (Edited)
Made some more progress. I got the back wall, ceiling & pillars matted, and this weekend, I'l do 2 layers on floor and firewall. I also used some Great Stuff expanding foam in some of the crevices and crannies where I could not reach with the matting. You can see that I also applied the Overkill (1/8" thick neoprene foam) to the ceiling. This stuff is pretty easy to work with, just a little out of shape initially, due to the way it was stuffed in the shipping carton. I used 3M spray 90 to apply it. Now when I rap on the ceiling with my knuckles, there is just a dull thud sound. Hearing the rain beating on the roof will now be a distant memory LOL.
:thumbup:
 

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#19 ·
some more pics.....
 

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#20 ·
Make no mistake.... you ARE my hero!!! U are the sound PIONEER...boldly going where no CT member WANTS to go. That is going to sound better than an '06 Mercedes in there. Looks GREAT!!!
 
#22 ·
yup... you sure do amaze me!!! btw, thanks for all the info you PMed me....

I just got done building my first sub box (for a friend's rx8).... I'll probably post pics on a new post soon enough.... nothing at the level of your work, but I'm still quite satisfied with my first venture!
 
#23 ·
Looks/sounds like it's coming along well. You're STILL my hero. I showed Kelly the pics of your truck and she nearly cried!!! hahaha She said "he is crazy tearing up that new truck like that". I said "yeah, he is crazy...but he's da man!"
 
#24 · (Edited)
Big day, hot, sweaty, lots of reaggae and cramped fingers.

Pic 1: removing the airbag module, ooooooo be careful.

Pic 2: removing mounting bracket

Pic 3: all gone

Pic 4: continuing matting

Pic 5: module refastened
 

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#25 · (Edited)
Pic 6: mid-day

Pic 7: driver side firewall with factory rubber/foam pulled back

Pic 8: driver side kick panel area

Pic 9: driver side dash frame support. you can see if you maximize the screen, upon reinstalling it I poked a small hole through the foil, and threaded the bolt, and the material squeezed out at the head of the bolt. There will be no vibration there whatsoever.

Pic 10: I used aluminum tape to fix the rubber molded factory foam on the firewall to the matting and seal it off even more.

I must say, this is a lot of work, and I've already got over 40 hrs. in it so far.
I drilled a hole thru the passenger side footwell, and next time I'll run the power cable into the engine bay, and seal the foam up like the other side. Now I can pre-wire the cabin, apply the neoprene, and put it back together for now. I'll continuing listening to the RF system with added subs, and leave the rear seats out til I can wire the rear doors.
 

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