Nissan Titan Forum banner

Remote Start Questions...

5K views 25 replies 5 participants last post by  gabet40 
#1 ·
I am installing my remote starter/alarm this week and after going completely thru the instructions, (as well as every post i could find an oz. of info on), there were just a few things that i wanted to make clear before going at it.

1. Is the Violet Secondary Ignition wire (in the ignition harness) hot during crank? Accessory? On only? or a combination with On?

2. My system features a two 12v+ constant power supplies and specifically states NOT to use the same source for the two. I have used the Green for 1, just wondering where another constant source is for a 10ga wire.

3. When I cut the brown starter wire to attach to the Starter Inhibit Relay, my instructions didn't specify which end when on terminal 30 and which went on terminal 87a. I believe 30 is to ignition and 87 is to solenoid.

4. My instructions state to tap the tach signal to three different coils; cylinder 1, 3, and 7, in order to get an equal distribution. Just wanted to confirm.

5. One wire on my system is for 'entry illumination' (separate ones for the door triggers) but I haven't seen this option in any of the articles posted. Leave it out?

6. We have two starter wires in the ignition, but I only have one starter wire with my alarm. Will it be safe to tap this same wire to both starter wires? Or should I only tap to the Brown?

maybe a few more that Ill stop there for now.

thanks in advance!
 
See less See more
#2 · (Edited)
gabet40 said:
I am installing my remote starter/alarm this week and after going completely thru the instructions, (as well as every post i could find an oz. of info on), there were just a few things that i wanted to make clear before going at it.

1. Is the Violet Secondary Ignition wire (in the ignition harness) hot during crank? Accessory? On only? or a combination with On?
Ignition is hot in the On and Crank positions, not ACC

2. My system features a two 12v+ constant power supplies and specifically states NOT to use the same source for the two. I have used the Green for 1, just wondering where another constant source is for a 10ga wire.
I've always used the same source for all of my installs. That being said, if you're worried about the current flow, you can run a fused power wire from the battery (10 ga minimum)

3. When I cut the brown starter wire to attach to the Starter Inhibit Relay, my instructions didn't specify which end when on terminal 30 and which went on terminal 87a. I believe 30 is to ignition and 87 is to solenoid.
The relay should be set up so that 87a is empty, 85 has a -trigger coming from the brain, 86 should go to the ign, 87 will have one half of the starter wire and 30 the other...it doesn't matter which half goes to which.

4. My instructions state to tap the tach signal to three different coils; cylinder 1, 3, and 7, in order to get an equal distribution. Just wanted to confirm.
I've never heard of this, and unless there are three different wires, I wouldn't recommend it or you'll have to diode isolate them away from each other so as not to screw up the ECU. I'd just stick with one...realize that the tach is only used to tell the R/S when to stop cranking and in an over rev shutdown

5. One wire on my system is for 'entry illumination' (separate ones for the door triggers) but I haven't seen this option in any of the articles posted. Leave it out?
This wire will turn on your dome light when you unlock the doors...I usually don't hook it up because it's usually more of a PITA than it's worth.

6. We have two starter wires in the ignition, but I only have one starter wire with my alarm. Will it be safe to tap this same wire to both starter wires? Or should I only tap to the Brown?
DO NOT TAP THEM TOGETHER!! Make sure first that both starter wires are +12v...nissan got into the habit of making their second starter wires negative (-), but it's been a while since I did my R/S and I don't have my documents w/me at work. You're going to need another relay set up as follows: 85 to the 2nd starter output wire on the brain(should be one, if not PM me and I'll explain the secondary course), 86 and 87 to +12v, and 30 to the 2nd starter wire...87a is not used.

maybe a few more that Ill stop there for now.

thanks in advance!
Happy installing!!!

Correction: On question 3...I meant 87a will have the wire...not 87. 87 will not be used in this case. Sorry for the confusion!
 
#3 ·
Now that's service! thanks so much for the first round of questions, i definitely wouldn't have figured all that. I've been going at it for a couple hours and ran into some issues.

7. All my research was consistent in the brake light being a Red/Green at the brake switch. There are two harnesses with the following wires present:
4-pin - Green/Red ; Red/Black ; Red/Yellow ; Grey
2-pin - Red/Black ; Brown/White
Any suggestions on which to tap?

8. Door Pins - Instructions say:
Right/Front is Red/Blue in pin 12

Red/Blue was in pin 9
Yellow/Black was in pin 12
Which should I go with?

Thanks again, all help is greatly appreciated!
 
#4 ·
12volts green (40A) + ignition harness
Starter brown + ignition harness
Second Starter lt. green or blue/green + ignition harness
Ignition black/red + ignition harness
Second Ignition N/A
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory red + ignition harness
Second Accessory purple + ignition harness
Keysense red/blue to black/red + ign harn or BCM R of column, pin 37
Power Lock blue - driver door module in door
Power Unlock red (double pulse) - driver door module in door
Lock Motor purple 5wi BCM to right of column, pin 65
Unlock Motor green 5wi BCM to right of column, pin 59
Parking Lights+ red/blue + dimmer switch on dash
Parking Lights- N/A
Hazards white/black - BCM to right of column, pin 29
Turn Signal(L) green/black + BCM to right of column, pin 60
Turn Signal(R) green/yellow + BCM to right of column, pin 61
Reverse Light green/white + inside rearview mirror
Door Trigger see notes - BCM to right of column
Notes: The LF door trigger is lt. blue in pin 47. The RF door trigger is red/blue in pin 12. The LR door trigger is red/yellow in pin 48. The RR door trigger is red/white or gray in pin 13. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision blue - BCM to right of column, pin 63
Notes: The blue wire is for the dome lights and puddle lights. For the step lights use red/white in pin 62 at the BCM.
Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock
Disarm No Unlock single pulse power unlock wire
Tachometer NOT white/blue or black ac any ignition coil
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire red/green or red/black + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake green - parking brake switch or cluster
Horn Trigger red/white - horn switch
Memory Seat 1 lt. green/black - memory mod. left of column, pin 9
Memory Seat 2 pink/blue - memory mod. left of column, pin 25
Memory Seat 3 N/A -
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
Transponder
Part #: 556UW
Alternate Part1 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on the SE and LE models. Optional on the Crew Cab XE models.
Interface Module: Category:
Door Lock Interface Required:
No Type:
Data Bus
Part #: IM-Nissan-1
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available
 
#5 · (Edited)
gabet40 said:
Now that's service! thanks so much for the first round of questions, i definitely wouldn't have figured all that. I've been going at it for a couple hours and ran into some issues.

7. All my research was consistent in the brake light being a Red/Green at the brake switch. There are two harnesses with the following wires present:
4-pin - Green/Red ; Red/Black ; Red/Yellow ; Grey
2-pin - Red/Black ; Brown/White
Any suggestions on which to tap?
Best way to do it is to test it and see which one give's you +12V when you press the pedal. I believe it's the one located higher towards the dash...but again, it's been a while. Use a Digital Muti-Meter (DMM) if you can!

8. Door Pins - Instructions say:
Right/Front is Red/Blue in pin 12

Red/Blue was in pin 9
Yellow/Black was in pin 12
Which should I go with?
For door triggers you NEED to test. The colors for these vary so often it's rediculous. They are negative trigger, so I recommend hooking up one of your leads to +12v and the other to the suspect wire...open the door, if it reads +12v...that's it.

Thanks again, all help is greatly appreciated!
That's what I'm here for! :)

BTW...what unit are you installing?
 
#7 ·
baseballfanz said:
You need a relay to convert the negative door pulse to positive pulse.:D
Only if the unit he's installing only accepts positive door trigger. Most have two wires...one for positive and one for negative. DEI's units use purple for + and green for -. This is why I asked him what unit he's installing. Maybe I can give him a few more tricks.
 
#8 ·
You guys are reminding me why I never went into electrical engineering!
 
#9 ·
I'm installing a Prestige unit i bought several years ago but only got a month out of it before parking the 69 chevy. But yes, the unit does have a wire for the neg door trigger so i'll go ahead and do some testing for assurance.

Thanks for all your help! i'll let yal know how it goes
 
#10 ·
Keep us posted...and in case you want some quicker answers in case I miss the thread, just PM me. BBF doesn't have all the answers all the time...but he knows where to find em ;)
 
#12 ·
RedViper98 said:
Keep us posted...and in case you want some quicker answers in case I miss the thread, just PM me. BBF doesn't have all the answers all the time...but he knows where to find em ;)
LOL, I will bow out on this one as the last time I install a remote start was 10 yrs ago. If RV is stump let me know I'll search for answer.:D
 
#13 ·
You guys are crazy. I had mine installed at Circuit City for $250, and that included the python system. Remote start, panic, lock and unlock.
Normally was $200, but had to pay and extra $50 for a part. It took the guy 6 hrs to install and he knew what he was doing. He installed about 6 of them on Armada's and other Titan before.....

good luck.. :)
 
#14 ·
beat to fit said:
You guys are crazy. I had mine installed at Circuit City for $250, and that included the python system. Remote start, panic, lock and unlock.
Normally was $200, but had to pay and extra $50 for a part. It took the guy 6 hrs to install and he knew what he was doing. He installed about 6 of them on Armada's and other Titan before.....

good luck.. :)
If he knew what he was doing it shouldn't have took him 6 hrs.:D I think yours was the first and the geuanie pig for him.:D
 
#15 · (Edited)
Ya this is my first - and definitely last - remote start install. I was looking forward to the challenge of the first time but scr*w that now. expecially in this houston heat. But funds are tight, so it was either myself or wait. It'll be cool though when said and done. I just WISH that it only took me 6 hours...

Well i've got the main components installed and the alarm operating. just need to install the hood switch, tach wire, etc.

What is the referred method of bypassing the key chip? I've heard of several different methods so i wanted some opinions based on ease of installation and cost. thanks again.

Also, my alarm only features one starter wire, while the Titan has two. Will my system need to activate the Starter 2 wire to operate?

thanks again
 
#16 · (Edited)
LOL..thanks BBF! Beat to Fit, that's about right for a complete system time...but for a $250 unit, that seems an excessive amount of time. Alright...now, decided to post the alternate form of making the second starter wire activate ONLY when remote starting as just running a wire between Starter wire #1 and #2 defeats the entire purpose of having two wires. Here you go:
You'll need a relay (SPDT) and a high currnet diode (able to handle 30amps). Cut the starter wire coming off the brains in the middle. Attach the diode to the end that's attached to the Titan's starter wire with the stripe towards that wire. Now take the relay and do as follows: 85 to ground (-), 86 needs to be attached to the other end of the diode and the alarm side of the starter wire you cut, 87 needs +12v, and 30 goes to the second starter wire (brown?) in the truck. 87a is not used. Hope that helps.

gabet40 said:
Will my system need to activate the Starter 2 wire to operate?

thanks again
Yes. Without powering up ALL starter wires, the starter will not crank.
 
#17 ·
RedViper98 said:
LOL..thanks BBF! Beat to Fit, that's about right for a complete system time...but for a $250 unit, that seems an excessive amount of time. Alright...now, decided to post the alternate form of making the second starter wire activate ONLY when remote starting as just running a wire between Starter wire #1 and #2 defeats the entire purpose of having two wires. Here you go:
You'll need a relay (SPDT) and a high currnet diode (able to handle 30amps). Cut the starter wire coming off the brains in the middle. Attach the diode to the end that's attached to the Titan's starter wire with the stripe towards that wire. Now take the relay and do as follows: 85 to ground (-), 86 needs to be attached to the other end of the diode and the alarm side of the starter wire you cut, 87 needs +12v, and 30 goes to the second starter wire (brown?) in the truck. 87a is not used. Hope that helps.
For those of you who are more visual...here's a quick painting:
 

Attachments

#19 ·
gabet40 said:
I've also been told that this way will work:
Yes...but you told me you didn't have another starter output wire on the remote start (positive or negative). This is actually the preferred method.
 
#21 ·
ya sorry bout that but the way it was labeled in my manual was as an 'ECM wake up' or 'Bulb Test' wire, nothing about cranking. I looked a little deeper and learned that it is actually sending a ground during pulse.
 
#22 ·
gabet40 said:
ya sorry bout that but the way it was labeled in my manual was as an 'ECM wake up' or 'Bulb Test' wire, nothing about cranking. I looked a little deeper and learned that it is actually sending a ground during pulse.
No big deal...as long as it's only active during crank...you're good to go.
 
#23 ·
ya theres a 4-pin aux. harness thats described as only overriding all the factory alarm features. but once you read what signal it actually sends out, guess you can do whatever you want with it.

again thanx for all your help guys, ill let you know when were up and running
 
#24 ·
funny thing today,

Since i still have to buy the immobilizer bypass, I had put off the rest of the install until i was bored enough today to go ahead and wire the rest. And just for sits and giggles i decided to try it out and see what happens, and sure enough, darn thing fired right up! no key bypass! are there some trucks with chips and some without? does this have anything to do with how basic my truck was when i bought it? (no power windows/locks)

what ever the reason, glad i saved that $$!
 
#25 ·
Wow...news to me. I know the Frontier XEs didn't have chips...but I didn't know about the Titans. Glad to hear you saved some $.
 
#26 ·
Hello again gentlemen. I forgot what a pain remote start systems are, so when the afore mentioned unit went out last month, i bought a new unit, hoping the wiring would be an easy swap.
For the most part it was, but i'm stuck on a couple wires:
1. The previous unit had wire that provided a "ground output when armed" to the starter inhibit relay terminal #86. The new unit didn't include the starter inhibit relay instructions, and doesn't offer a "ground output when armed" wire. Where do I connect this wire? Or do I need to? Image attached.
2. The new unit has a yellow/black "+12 vold alarm by-pass output" and instructs to connect it to the "ignition input of the alarm system". I just want to confirm that this means to connect it directly to the Blue Ignition wire.
3. There is another relay from the previous unit that has the following connections:
#86 & #30 joined and connected to BAT1
#87 connected to Ignition 2
#87a unused
#85 that used to connect to "Ground output during start/crank". The new unit does have a similar optional output, so common sense tells me to connect it, but with all the other discrepancies, I just want to confirm that it is still necessary.
Thanks again for your help!
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top