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Difficult starting when cold ;-(

21K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  kmillertime10 
#1 ·
I need some help on this issue ive been having with my titan.2007 Titan, 75,000 miles.The problem that im having is when the temp outside is cold approx 35 F or so, the engine wont start.it cranks fine,it has a new battery,just had it check out.I have added fuel additives in case there's water in the tank.I also always try to keep the tank at least 3/4 full.This morning just about kill the battery trying to start it.I put the charger on,went inside for several hours (4) while it charged.About noon time,tried to start it and it cranked right up.I':)m open for suggestions.
 
#3 ·
Don't crank too long. Unburned fuel has to go somewhere.

When the ECU relay goes bad I think the engine will turn but won't fire. Might want to try the relay. Swap it with the other relay which I can't for the life of me remember it's name. Or, just go to the dealer and buy one for about $5. You should keep one as a spare anyhow.
 
#4 ·
I drove the vehicle to the local advance auto where they did a load check on the battery.If am not mistaken the battery that i have is rated at 550 cca.The load test gave the battery 547 cca at the time it was tested.I have addedd a bottle of heet just incase there was moisture in the line.I have also noted while i was doing the center console mod that there seems to be something inside the dash that turns on and off momentarily while the ignition is off.Also i have replaced the IPDM.It was replaced it last month because the vehicle would not start.After i replaced it, it started right up.As of now i Have to wait until the weather gets cold again.
 
#5 ·
Same sort of issue....had to have it towed to the dealership last Wednesday. Dealer spent a bunch of time diagnosing, decided it was a bad IPDM, so they replaced with the newest IPDM, which has a lot less relays onboard. Called me Friday nite to say it was repaired. Went to pick up the truck Saturday morning, temp was ~30 degrees. Truck WOULD NOT start!! Service manager came in later in the afternoon, truck started fine, killed it and tried to restart...no-start again!

Tech came in Monday morning, truck started fine, kept starting all day long. He cleaned and retightened all the grounds, but couldn't find anything that should have caused the no-start condition.

This morning (Tuesday), the truck cranked for a time, then started.

Truck is an 08 XE CC, no remote start, no chips in keys.....no real mods. It started fine during cold last winter......
 
#6 ·
Same issues with my truck.Once it starts,it'll keep starting all day regardless if is cold or hot.As long as the weather is warm is fine it starts right up.If the temp goes down to about 25-30 degrees normally it will not start.I have since also replaced the fuel pump.
 
#7 ·
Mine received a new battery (750CCA) in late October after the Nissan replacement installed 10/2011 developed a bad cell. The ECU relay was replaced by Nissan 12/2011. Vehicle has only 24000 miles, I keep maintenance current and don't abuse the vehicle.

Dealer stated they checked the fuel pump and filter, found no issues, no codes set. Only thing was that the there was a CAN communication issue with the IPDM, which the service manager stated was usually an indication of IPDM breakdown and failure.
 
#8 ·
Update to issue.....Replaced battery AGAIN in November....since replacing, unless I put a 2 amp trickle charger on every 2 or 3 weeks overnight, the truck will get to where it refuses to start. Check of cranking voltage reveals dropping to 9.4 to 9.6 when battery is low. Truck gets driven about 10-15 mi per day usually. No parasitic draw of note (4 ma) after sitting with ign. off for 45 min.

Charging will be 14.1 or 14.2 on start up, dropping to 12.8 when battery is low during trip home. When charged, float voltage will be 14.1 dropping to 13.4 during trip.


I suspect some sort of alternator issue, will take back to dealership after first of year....
 
#9 ·
You are getting 14+ volts immediately at startup? That's with no charger attached, correct? Then later you record the charging voltage in the 12's?

Sounds like an alternator to me. What happens when the engine is running and you turn on every possible item that could use power?
 
#10 ·
Full electrical load or not, voltage doesn't change....Will definitely take to dealer after the holidays, am recovering from Rotator Cuff surgery a week ago.

Alternator load test on vehicle shows about 70 amps after startup, as tested at local O'reily Automotive.
 
#11 ·
From the service manual:

Nominal rating: 12V-130A
Minimum revolution under no-load (When 13.5 volts is applied): 1,200 rpm
Hot output current (When 13.5 volts is applied):
More than 78A/1,800 rpm
More than 108A/2,500 rpm
More than 130A/5,000 rpm
I also found this:
If the charge warning lamp illuminates with the engine running, a fault is indicated. The IC regulator warning function activates to illuminate “CHARGE” warning lamp, if any of the following symptoms occur while generator is operating:
- Excessive voltage is produced.
- No voltage is produced.
So while it sounds like your alternator is producing too few amps it is still putting out something so there is no warning.

I've heard that replacing the alternator is a challenging job due to the tight spaces. Since you're recovering from surgery, letting the dealer do it is the way to go.
 
#13 ·
just a quick update since my last post.Last winter my vehicle was still acting up so I took it to the local nissan dealership.While there,they replaced the crank sensor total cost under $300.During summer it ran great:big_grin:It now brings me to this winter:frown:As the temperatures drop the truck refused to start.I took the vehicle to a local mechanic,who could find no codes and thought it could be a poor ground issue total cost $120.A while back the truck refused to start for 3 days.I was fed up with it and decided that i was going to find the problem or else.That week the temp stayed in the 20s.I knew that if the temp was over 45 degrees or higher it would start.So i got a extension cord and my wife's blow dryer.I measured the heat coming out of it with a infrared thermometer ant it was 102 degree in 19 degree weather.I tried to first start the truck,it was a no go.Then i took the hair blower and warmed up the ecu for 5 min and to my surprise it cranked right up.The next day i warmed up the ecu in 19 degree weather and once again it started right up.On the third day i attempted to start it without warming the ecu but it was a no go:frown:. After the ecu was warmed up it started right up.:angel:. I contacted courtesy parts and they matched the ecu by my vin number.It was a plug and drive.Ever since the ecu was replaced the truck has been running great.Its funny how sometimes we take simple things like starting vehicle in single digit weather for granted.I took the other ecu and pried it open and looked at it under a magnifying glass.It had a cracked solder joint.Ill post images of both ecu when i get a chance.
 
#17 ·
just a quick update since my last post.Last winter my vehicle was still acting up so I took it to the local nissan dealership.While there,they replaced the crank sensor total cost under $300.During summer it ran great:big_grin:It now brings me to this winter:frown:As the temperatures drop the truck refused to start.I took the vehicle to a local mechanic,who could find no codes and thought it could be a poor ground issue total cost $120.A while back the truck refused to start for 3 days.I was fed up with it and decided that i was going to find the problem or else.That week the temp stayed in the 20s.I knew that if the temp was over 45 degrees or higher it would start.So i got a extension cord and my wife's blow dryer.I measured the heat coming out of it with a infrared thermometer ant it was 102 degree in 19 degree weather.I tried to first start the truck,it was a no go.Then i took the hair blower and warmed up the ecu for 5 min and to my surprise it cranked right up.The next day i warmed up the ecu in 19 degree weather and once again it started right up.On the third day i attempted to start it without warming the ecu but it was a no go:frown:. After the ecu was warmed up it started right up.👼. I contacted courtesy parts and they matched the ecu by my vin number.It was a plug and drive.Ever since the ecu was replaced the truck has been running great.Its funny how sometimes we take simple things like starting vehicle in single digit weather for granted.I took the other ecu and pried it open and looked at it under a magnifying glass.It had a cracked solder joint.Ill post images of both ecu when i get a chance.
Did you ever post a photo. I'm trying to find this myself . No start in the cold just cranks
 
#14 ·
That's some creative troubleshooting! Worthy of hitting the "Thanks" button a couple times, except that CT doesn't have that button.
 
#15 ·
My Titan spent a week at the dealership, getting poked, prodded, and analyzed. Day before I took it in, I had to trickle charge the battery for a few hours after a no-start condition. I'd checked battery (good), cleaned and reconnected grounds, replaced factory negative terminal with a loop terminal and a marine battery terminal, added another ground to engine and to the body (got charging voltage up in the 13-14v range finally!), added harness for battery maintainer/charger, and checked alternator output (52A at 14.1V at idle after starting.

Dealer kept it 4 days at my insistence, starting it multiple times each day. Temps were in the 0-18 degree range during that time. Vehicle never refused to start. I'm sure the hour-long drive to the dealership completely charged the battery.

Upon reflection, I think my driving style may have been the largest factor in the 'mystery no-start' situation. I drive 5 miles to work; then 5 back home in the evening, usually with at least 2 or more stops, resulting in a slow decline of the battery, especially in cold weather. As soon as it got to the point where cranking voltage dipped below 10v, the engine cranks, but refuses to start.

I just plug in the battery maintainer overnight once a week when temps are below freezing, and truck has not refused to start....been another 3 weeks of cold weather, no further problems.
 
#16 ·
It's caused by weak solder that has plagued Nissan for years. It's your ECM. Have it sent to SIA, G7, or Circuit Board Medics for repair of the faulty solder on one of your IC chips. Generally will cost around $200 and you'll be without a truck for 1 to 2 weeks.
 
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