I have to say, I have never seen this done since the housings are slightly different. The Elocker housing uses an actual actuator that would have to be added which wouldn't be exactly easy.
I think your best bet to do is go ARB since it is basically bulletproof and will work better in the long run since the OEM Elocker has not always proven to be reliable.
I think you're saying that you're trying to install a factory E-lock in a non-E-lock factory housing. My first question would be ...why? You'd be better off even though it's not a true locker, as already mentioned, going with a TruTrac since the E-locker can only be used while in 4LO.
an e lock can only be used in four low if its wired through your factory computer. what reason would you want to use it while going fast anyhow? the reason i puchased an elock is because of the price i got it for was a tenth of the price of anything else. im going to try it out and see. if it dont work ill throw it in the garbage and move on. Im faily certain that the only thing i have to do is find a way to get the wiring from inside the housing to the outside then just run a switch into the cab. The locker is a 2 wire on off unit that will engage and disengage whenever power is supplied to it. its the factory computer system that makes it only useable in 4 low.
Sounds like you know your stuff then. There are times that having the rear end locked in 4HI would be advantageous and sure it could be wired that way but you're right, not many uses for it to be locked at high speeds. Good luck and let us know how you make out!
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