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Need help, OIL change ???

64K views 38 replies 23 participants last post by  HRTKD 
#1 ·
Going to attempt my first nissan titan oil change, i normally let the dealer do it, but they went up in price so im gonna go synthetic, castrol syntec i think.. Looking for some tips??

im planning to go with either 10w30 or 10W40, i think its 6.5 to 7 quarts?

a good oil filter

also will i need the oil drain plug crush washer????

anything else im missing?
 
#2 ·
No reason to use 10-30w, use 5-30w or 0-30. Put in 6.5 quarts and look at the dipstick. I always replace the crush washer, and the larger crushwasher ring faces the oil pan. I heard Fram filters are garbage, so anything else is ok as long as it has a check valve in it.
 
#3 ·
I use Mobil 1 synthetic. It works great and you can get it at Wal-Mart. I would go to the dealership and buy some filters and crushwashers. The crushwashers are cheap and the filters are about the same as if you were buying them in the store.

Changing the oil is a breeze....
 
#4 ·
Just my opinion on the crush washers. I have been changing my own oil ever since I started driving 16 years ago. I have never changed the washer and have never had any oil leak cause of it. I know its cheap to do but I thought I'd share my situation. I have been using mobil 5000 so far in the titan. I am thinking of going synthetic on my 06 with 39k on it. On the 04 I have 120k on regular oil with no problems.
 
#6 ·
oil change

I also am a Castrol Syntec fan, use it in my boat which has a 496 Big block, Some people wont touch castrol, not sure why however i do know Mercury racing did some extensive testing with it and liked it, and they will tell you to either run merc or castrol oil in there motors:) So i plan to run 5W30 either Castrol or Mobile 1, maybe even possibly royal purple if i can find some on sale.

As for oil filters, im sure buying the factory filter is best however, after alot of research last night, and for my boat filters, im sure most of you are aware there made by someone else, theres only 3 company's that make oil filters and they make for alot of the brands out there.. Example, car quest filters are made by wix, who also maks napa's filters, and a few others. I dont get very picky when it comes to filters, just no fram! i will probably buy the factory cause i need a crush washer, otherwise it would be wix, or mobile 1..
 
#7 ·
I have never changed a crush washer either on any car in the last 20 years and never had a leak or damaged threads or whatever other reason there is for it. I prefer Purolator pure one filters and I noticed the other day that the Bosch filters I bought on sale look exactly the same inside and out as Purolator I have also heard nothing but good about the Wix brand I use them in my street bike with no problems. I know everybody has a different opinion about oil and filters mine is that I won't go to the dealership and pay extra for the same quality I can get elseware . If you have time go here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ and sit down and read for a while there is some good info on there.
 
#8 ·
Oil change done

Got the oil changed today, not bad at all, but i would advize that u change the crush washer, for $.82 is cheap insurance, i had barely cracked the oil pan bolt and oil was already running, thats the only thing making a deal, highly worth every penny! used Mobile 1 filter and 5W30 oil, just like the manual states..

My only ? is how long are you all running your synthetic oils, i know nissan sais on standard oil 5-7000 miles before oil change, i normally did 3000, but i would like to go alittle longer do to the price of synthetic..
 
#9 ·
Got the oil changed today, not bad at all, but i would advize that u change the crush washer, for $.82 is cheap insurance, i had barely cracked the oil pan bolt and oil was already running, thats the only thing making a deal, highly worth every penny! used Mobile 1 filter and 5W30 oil, just like the manual states..

My only ? is how long are you all running your synthetic oils, i know nissan sais on standard oil 5-7000 miles before oil change, i normally did 3000, but i would like to go alittle longer do to the price of synthetic..
you an go up to 8k with synthetic. i do and my oil is nice and brown looking sfter 6k :)
 
#11 ·
Just thought about this so I figured I'd add it in. On my old car I changed the oil and the rubber gasket from the oil filter was stuck to the engine and I didn't see it. I just installed the new gasket over top of it. When I started It up oil sprayed all over the bottom of the engine and my driveway. So I always double check that now.
 
#12 ·
I did this to my honda not too long ago. I make sure there is nothing left behind by the old filter. Wipe down everything, and make sure there is good contact.

I live in SoCal, and am about to do my first oil change with my truck. I'm still on the fence with the weight of the oil though. I hardly ever tow anything, and I rarely drive the truck (but when I do I like to feel the VK power). I am definitely going synthetic (All my cars are running synthetic).

Which would you choose if in my situation.
~about 340 days of sunshine. SoCal weather
~little to no towing
~love to give it gas (my feet are made of lead! lol)

10w-40?
5w-30?
Other?

Thanks for your input!
Paul
 
#15 ·
5w-30 should be better on the dyno than 10w-40. By how much? It may not be enough to make a huge difference.

If you're focused on 1/4 mile times then consider that you're trying to start your run with an engine as cool as possible. So that means your oil is cool also. A 10w will provide less wear protection than the 5w when the engine/oil is cool.
 
#16 ·
i use mobile 1 oil and filter, oil is the 0w-40, hard to find but oil analysis shows it does good in our motors (found from www.bobistheoilguy.com). i used a fram oil filter once and my truck started to make a high pitch whinning noise at idle then would go away after idle, figured out that it was the oil bypass squeling at me that the oil filter was plugged or full. that stupid fram filter only had 2000 miles on it, changed the oil and filter and the noise went away. i have never used a fram filter again and also never had that noise come about, coinsidence, i think not!
 
#19 ·
Did you change to AMSoil brake fluid too? I looked at what they offered for brake fluid and it didn't seem to be anything special. So that's one fluid that I probably won't get from AMSoil.
 
#23 ·
OK, OK, when you throw in those big words like hygroscopic my face tends to go slack and I drool out the side of my mouth. None-the-less, I hear what you're saying and I'm a believer.
 
#24 ·
Ouch



LOL I know I had to look it up myself and found out it is the ability of a substance to attract water molecules from the surrounding environment through absorption. I usually know some of those kinds of words from workin in the rocket industry for quite a few years, like hypergolic, cryogenics, parabolics, apogees. and perigees, and all that stuff. but that one had me looped. NO MORE big words, my head hurts
 
#27 ·
But what is to say that they work together and not against each other? A good synthetic such as AMSOIL needs no additives, other than the formulation of additives that it was made with, It isn't like AMSOIL which has proper base stocks and additives that bond together with each other molecularly. Those bonds are engineered to not break down like other oils. That is why additives to just anything are not the way to go, especially with price. I would rather have something engineered to work, rather than something that I have no idea how it will work, has Lucas posted any tests with the various oils out there? I haven't seen them. I think Lucas reallys is just a viscosity improver which is rather thick by itself, and that is not always a good thing either. I want to see some real ASTM shear tests and the such before these claims are made, I have yet to see them. The only thing I see is the crank with the wheels, a good test of how an oil climbs gears, but does it have the shear strength to protect them. Does it have the kinematic viscosity after repeated use over time and temp. I hever see any of this from Lucas, just stuff like this :

“The oil companies don’t want our products used because it would cut their sales volume by at least 10 to 20 percent (mix ratios) and probably more because we make oil last longer,” and “We have a breakthrough product, and the establishment testing hasn’t caught up with our performance.”

Many rely on anecdotal evidence, not controlled tests. Some refer to “a prestigious university” or “a well-known testing laboratory,” but rarely identify which ones. Many that are identified are outside the United States. I still haven’t seen evidence from any manufacturer with properly documented tests.

Normally, when test results are published, verifiable reports give the location and dates of testing, names of personnel conducting the tests, a description of test procedures if new, or a list of established test protocols developed through the scientific process (reaching consensus and addressing all objections) by ASTM, SAE, API and other recognized technical organizations.

Quotes from an article I read about additives also. Even the API cert is a joke when you require someone to give you a slice of the pie after so many gallons are sold. But back again, show some tests other than a couple of plastic wheels in a clear case with real loads and real heat.
 
#28 ·
You have a valid point about the testing and as far as the clear plastic gears goes i get that it gets to the top end of your motor and says for easy starts with lubercation, all i know and it ain't alot but i use lucas in all my vehicles from my freightliner with a 600 hp cat motor thats orth huge bucks, to my show car which is a 91 mustang ,right down to my lawnt tracker and 4 wheelers and i never had a problem with weither it goes in my fuel tank or oil right up to my tranny and rackinpinion steering i love the stuff yes there is others that are prob alot better this is just one persons opinion thank for letting me babble , oh ya i use it in my titan as
 
#29 ·
How can a thicker additive to an oil allow better flow on startup? That is against physics principles, and what does the lucas do when it's really cold out? Does it turn into a rock or stay fluid as AMSOIL does? I have seen Lucas come out of a bottle when it isn't cold, I can imagine what it is like when it is. The low resistance to flow and pump-ability of an oil will allow that oil to flow and it comes from the cold weather rating of an oil or viscosity rating when cold. The pour point also has a factor in that also. The majority of the people in this country live where it is cold in the winter. You may never have a problem in all your vehicles, but it doesn't mean that they are liking the stuff. Another misconception with people and oil products. "I never have had a problem, so it must work, right?" You don't see inside those motors, unless you have had them apart after miles and miles of use. Like I said, show me the testing, and I have said before, good testing results typically transfer into good performance results. No additive manufacturer in particular, still does not do testing, and if they do, it is usually some guys garage somewhere that no one has ever heard of and is not typically classified as a reputable lab. All the testing I really need is I ran an air cooled Harley motor in my Softail 150K miles, it had less than .001 cylinder taper in the bores when I rebuilt it. That motor saw many years of intense heat that cars will never see. Can't ask for better protection than that from AMSOIL. That isn't a claim, that is indeed fact, and my Harley mechanic hasn't looked back at another oil since mine came apart for the rebuild. That was all he needed to see, he uses it in all his bikes and cars now. So the performance claim of " well I haven't had a problem with it in my vehicles" doesn't wash with me, nothing against you, it's just not a claim with substance for me, that proves a products worth. AMSOIL proved its claim when I rebuilt the Harley motor. That was real proof.
 
#31 ·
That is your choice, but for me I want the best protection for that motor that I can buy. Motor work nowadays is not a cheap proposition, it can run into the thousands for repairs. An oil analysis will show what issues are yet to be defined, and once again, just because I don't have "issues" now, the oil analysis will show the precursor to come. My Titan wasn't cheap and I want to protect that value as long as I can. Even some of the "high" priced oils don't protect the way AMSOIL does. Redline's test wasn't very good on the ASTM-D4172 which is the four ball wear test.

http://www.nooilchange.com/amsoil-vs-redline.htm
 
#32 ·
Mobil 1

The city police department I use to work for uses Mobil 1 in all of their vehicles. They have over 800 vehicles. During my earlier days of working the streets we had patrol cars with well over 100 k miles. I can't remember ever seeing a car that smoked or had any signs of engine problems due to excessive wear. They did not change the oil according to vehicle maintenance guidelines. Sometimes a vehicle may go 10 k miles before an oil change although this was not the norm. The oil was susposed to be changed at time intervals. The department would send used oil samples out for independent testing on a regular basis. This was perhaps one of the better programs on the department. The testing showed the oil still had it's lubricating and protective properties. I have used Mobil 1 in all of my vehicles for the past 24 years. I have only used the recommeded weight oil. I did an engine rebuild (build-up for a supercharger) on a 98 Mustang Cobra that had 69 k miles and always used Mobil 1. The engine was spotless and looked new with minimal wear. I change my oil and filter every 6000 miles.
 
#33 ·
I run Syntec and change every 4,000 miles but I tow a lot and run the dog mess out of it!
 
#34 ·
Everyone has there pearks on what type of oil to use but what it comes down to is sending it off to get tested. I mean really you can't judge what the oil is doing without it getting tested. With what was said on here about amsoil I think I'm going to change from pennzoil platinum to amsoil, I use mobil1 filter's. But that's not the point I wanted to make. When your taking down the skid plate to get to the filter I would suggest that you unbolt all bolts before removing the skid plate. I was changing my oil at a auto craft shop on post and the guy working there told me to leave 2 on and let the skid plate hang. So I did and then had my oil changed at mobile1 and I'm sure they did the same. I went to change my oil this last time and notice I have a kink on the bumber from letting it hang.
 
#38 ·
Guys, what about timewise instead of mileage? My Titan is basically a weekend ride. I will drive it only 7-10K miles a year. I plan to do my 1st oil change soon using Mobil1 synthetic. I have a 06 SE 4x2 with 90k miles. How often should I change the oil? Every 3 months, 6 months, 9 months?
 
#39 ·
With With the oil I use (AMSoil 0w-30) they say 25,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. I usually get about 9,000 miles in a year.
 
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