My JBA Header Install - Page 6 - Nissan Titan Forum
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post #51 of 55 Old 01-19-2015, 09:25 AM
Lgordon21
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Best Instructions Ever!!

I have to thank you for such great instructions. I have 220,000 on my 2006 Nissan Armada. About a year ago, I failed my emission test because of the Driver side catalytic converter error. I let a local shop complete the work with aftermarket parts and the total work cost $800. Three months later the check engine light comes on again which did not alarm me because I drove a while with the previously light on.

I took my truck in for emission (knowing I would fail) but at least I could see what was tripping the code. The shop tells be that I was having both bank 1 and bank 2 issues. The new mechanic tells me that the new CAT have gone bad and he could hear some unusual air inflows. Enough of the money dump!!!


I ran across your instructions and purchased an aftermarket passenger side catalytic converter along with 4 Bosch O2 sensors for less than the price of the original work. I changed everything out and the light came back on almost immediately. Two weeks later, I decided to double checked my torque on the catalytic converter I installed and everything was fine except for slight tightening of the bolts.

I decide to re-torque the bolts on the catalytic converter installed by the shop and noticed that one of the hard -to -reach bolts was not put on by the mechanic. I know that the driver side CAT is very difficult to put on which is why I took it to the shop the first place. Now, I have to figure out how to find a bolt and tighten it down.
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post #52 of 55 Old 07-24-2015, 03:11 AM
684Alpha
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Cant figure out how to multi quote. To 04 off road and sensei. I have an 06' KC 4x4.

Just did JBA LT's and Cajun Catted B's. What a Bi**H!!!. I am not looking forward to the re-torque.

I used a 3' breaker bar. I also found that a high quality 3/8" drive universal joint was WAY more useful than the 1/2" counter part (was able to get more angle out of the smaller one). Just make sure you get quality universal joints , not the crappy "knuckle" type ones. You want the black hardened ball joint type.
To take the manifolds off, grind down a 14mm Deep socket so it's a bit shorter (you'll just have to look at it and see how much to grind down), I took a 1/4 to a 1/3" of mine, worked great, but it will be useless to put the headers back on.
To torque the headers down a 14mm flex head gear wrench will be indispensable, (I wish I didn't cheeped out on that one, I figured a regular and stubby 14mm would have done it, I was wrong) but mine is a 06' 4x4. I also had to grind down the top part of the motor mounts down about a 1/4" on both sides of the truck to clear the headers.

It's not an easy job, it's tedious. But feels pretty good to know you saved a butt load on labour when you finally finish.
Oh yeah, make sure you reward yourself. Once the headers are torqued down, before you bolt up the b-pipes. Fire it up, and burp the throttle a couple times. Wholly crap!!!, best sound I've ever heard from the T. Hehehe, I giggle every time I think about it.
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post #53 of 55 Old 08-14-2015, 03:46 AM
684Alpha
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The phone camera really doesn't so it justice, but you may get the idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WxSwONeryU
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post #54 of 55 Old 08-17-2015, 05:35 PM
Canadian Miner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 684Alpha View Post

It's not an easy job, it's tedious. But feels pretty good to know you saved a butt load on labour when you finally finish.
Oh yeah, make sure you reward yourself. Once the headers are torqued down, before you bolt up the b-pipes. Fire it up, and burp the throttle a couple times. Wholly crap!!!, best sound I've ever heard from the T. Hehehe, I giggle every time I think about it.
Amen!

A 17mm gear head wrench is also a good buy for the bolts attaching the motor mounts to the frame. Clearance is minimal after the header install. I picked up a good standard length 17mm gear head combination wrench and cut off the open end so it would clear the motor.

2012 RAM 2500 Crew 4x4 Cummins
H&S, AFE, Zone 6" Lift, BD Steering Brace, Black Rhino Rims, 35" Yokohoma Geolandar, Powerboards, Lorado Cover, Vision-X LED

SOLD - 2005 SE Crew Off-Road Big Tow High Utility
KC Lights, Nissan Brush Guard, PRG Performance Lift, RADFLO, Deaver Packs, 35" Duratracs, 34" AT KOs, Backup Light, Stillen Rad, AT Grounding Kit, MXP Intake, JBA Titanium Ceramic Long Tubes, Cajun Cat'd 2.5" B Pipes, 08 Pipes, Borla Swap, Ultra Quiet, UpRev Tuned, Timbren SES, RC Traction Bars
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post #55 of 55 Old 08-24-2015, 10:29 PM
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Knowing the 4x4 upgrade to headers is a b!#ch

I'm not a well-versed mechanic/welder, so I foresee taking the my truck with leaking exhaust manifold(s) to the shop(s). What do you recon is a fair price for the install? BTW, thank you for the great write-ups!

RED[COLOR="Black"]'05 Titan SE, 4x4, tow pkg, chrome westin bars, dvd system. USMC MSgt (ret).

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