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Originally Posted by gabet40
I am installing my remote starter/alarm this week and after going completely thru the instructions, (as well as every post i could find an oz. of info on), there were just a few things that i wanted to make clear before going at it.
1. Is the Violet Secondary Ignition wire (in the ignition harness) hot during crank? Accessory? On only? or a combination with On?
Ignition is hot in the On and Crank positions, not ACC
2. My system features a two 12v+ constant power supplies and specifically states NOT to use the same source for the two. I have used the Green for 1, just wondering where another constant source is for a 10ga wire.
I've always used the same source for all of my installs. That being said, if you're worried about the current flow, you can run a fused power wire from the battery (10 ga minimum)
3. When I cut the brown starter wire to attach to the Starter Inhibit Relay, my instructions didn't specify which end when on terminal 30 and which went on terminal 87a. I believe 30 is to ignition and 87 is to solenoid.
The relay should be set up so that 87a is empty, 85 has a -trigger coming from the brain, 86 should go to the ign, 87 will have one half of the starter wire and 30 the other...it doesn't matter which half goes to which.
4. My instructions state to tap the tach signal to three different coils; cylinder 1, 3, and 7, in order to get an equal distribution. Just wanted to confirm.
I've never heard of this, and unless there are three different wires, I wouldn't recommend it or you'll have to diode isolate them away from each other so as not to screw up the ECU. I'd just stick with one...realize that the tach is only used to tell the R/S when to stop cranking and in an over rev shutdown
5. One wire on my system is for 'entry illumination' (separate ones for the door triggers) but I haven't seen this option in any of the articles posted. Leave it out?
This wire will turn on your dome light when you unlock the doors...I usually don't hook it up because it's usually more of a PITA than it's worth.
6. We have two starter wires in the ignition, but I only have one starter wire with my alarm. Will it be safe to tap this same wire to both starter wires? Or should I only tap to the Brown?
DO NOT TAP THEM TOGETHER!! Make sure first that both starter wires are +12v...nissan got into the habit of making their second starter wires negative (-), but it's been a while since I did my R/S and I don't have my documents w/me at work. You're going to need another relay set up as follows: 85 to the 2nd starter output wire on the brain(should be one, if not PM me and I'll explain the secondary course), 86 and 87 to +12v, and 30 to the 2nd starter wire...87a is not used.
maybe a few more that Ill stop there for now.
thanks in advance!
Originally Posted by gabet40
Now that's service! thanks so much for the first round of questions, i definitely wouldn't have figured all that. I've been going at it for a couple hours and ran into some issues.
7. All my research was consistent in the brake light being a Red/Green at the brake switch. There are two harnesses with the following wires present:
4-pin - Green/Red ; Red/Black ; Red/Yellow ; Grey
2-pin - Red/Black ; Brown/White
Any suggestions on which to tap?
Best way to do it is to test it and see which one give's you +12V when you press the pedal. I believe it's the one located higher towards the dash...but again, it's been a while. Use a Digital Muti-Meter (DMM) if you can!
8. Door Pins - Instructions say:
Right/Front is Red/Blue in pin 12
Red/Blue was in pin 9
Yellow/Black was in pin 12
Which should I go with?
For door triggers you NEED to test. The colors for these vary so often it's rediculous. They are negative trigger, so I recommend hooking up one of your leads to +12v and the other to the suspect wire...open the door, if it reads +12v...that's it.
Thanks again, all help is greatly appreciated!
Originally Posted by baseballfanz
You need a relay to convert the negative door pulse to positive pulse.
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