The owners manual does not explicitly say that you are not supposed to pull in reverse - at least not that I can find. However, it sounds like Nissan thinks of the tow hooks on the front as something that is used to recover the Titan.
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lift, big tires etc............
- IMO..........I think that increases the chance of a failure. Titan's are
not known for having robust drivetrains.
Maybe the engine/transmission is but NOT the front and rear differentials.
Plenty of others have had the front differentials fail when they shouldn't :
The lift has nothing to do with it.......anybody that tries to pull backwards will have the same result.
The tow hooks are for recovery only.....
Is that in the owners manual or on the 4x4 instructions stuck on the visor?
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Well........a long time ago (Titan wise) there was a comment
in this forum by a tech who worked on various diffs that
some of the parts in the Titan's front diff looked like
something you would expect to see in a compact truck diff.
Now, take it for what it is worth......this is the internet
This is not nissan issue of front difs breaking because of pulling out a vehical in reverse. it would break in a chevy ford toyota any thing. front tow hooks are made for being pulled out. sorry to say
Quote:
Originally Posted by KINGMADE
that is like saying not to reverse a load up hill.. this is bs and nissan knows it.
all the weight is on the back of the truck than also. and that dodge probley ways 6000 pounds. so threre is probly 10000 ponds of force he is pulling backwards with all the force on the front diff. it is going to snap
Last edited by 05StealthTitan; 12-14-2008 at 04:35 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I've been in a few tight situations and pulled a few vehicles out with the tow hooks without any noticeable front differential problems.....next time I'll pull from the rear after reading this thread.
Thanks for more bad Titan news! lol....
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ARE Z shell, OEM bug/rock deflector, Lund AVS Ventvisors, Bushwhacker-notched-Fender Flares, OEM Dual Lower Sliding Trays, White Night Backup Lights, Drawtite Activator II trailer-e-brake control, Super-Z-Winter Traction Cables, Dueler AT REVO Tires, Nitrogen in tires, Rear Axle Vent Mod., NISSAN I-POD adapter, Bosch Icon blades, Optima Red Top Battery. Amsoil: SEVERE GEAR 75-140W Synthetic In Rear and Front Differential, ATF Synthetic in Transfer Case,
Series 2000 0-30W synthetic engine oil, EAO13 oil filter, EaA104 Nano-fiber engine air filter
By the pictures I saw it is no wonder the ring gear bearing caps are damaged.
First, as mentioned before the aluminum caps, they should be a forged steel, the bolts are not even of hardened grade. The C-Clips should be steel and not aluminum. The big thing about pulling with any differnential is the cut of the gears. Those helical cut gears are about 25 degrees which is fine if you want to eliminate noise but terrible for strength. If there was a company the would make a kit with 0- 5 degree straight gear set, with the proper caps, bolts and clips this would not happen. Now, in installing the ring and pinion the tolerance for match would have to be about .0005" for proper mating. This will also eliminate a good amount of the gear whine that you hear from straight cut gears ( there will be some) but the strength would be considerably much more. I had an old Dodge power wagon that had straight cut transmission(4 speed with overdrive unit) and differential gears. This would have some highway sing but the drivetrain was nearly indestructable. I used this to pull trees, vehicles, plow snow, pull boulders and never had a problem with this truck and I abused it like I do my Titan. After all that what trucks are for, right?
I agree it was probably not the best decision to pull my buddy out back wards, but come on! I didn't even break the front tires loose and the C-clips broke. Looking at it from a design standpoint, that would be one part I would over design. The bolt need to be at least grade 5's, and the clip needed to be at a minimum made of cast iron (not necessarily a heat treated alloy). The clips also broke right on a stress riser point. This part is very poorly designed. Regardless of the lift and tires (which are not much larger than stock), the truck should be able to handle the tow rated load in reverse. The last thing I want to happen is my 4wd going out in some backwoods place with no cell reception and miles to walk out to get help. It is a matter of reliability. I was not abusing the truck, in reality I was actually babying it due to the cv joint failure I experienced the last time I was doing any real off roading. I'm almost temped to have a machine shop make a new set of C-clips to prevent any further problems.
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The weak parts
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