So I figured I would do one since I just got done installing mine. I looked at many different header install post to help me along the way so I hope that this one can help anyone that is planing on doing this install themselves. Ok so tools that you will need:
1/2" socket wrench(I found it nice to have to help break bolts free. But not a must)
3/8" socket wrench
3/8" sockets (10mm-14mm to be on the safe side. most of it will be done with the 10mm and the 14mm)
3/8" extensions of various sizes
3/8" swivel joint
some box-end wrenches may come in handy as well(10mm-14mm)
A piece of 2x4 about 5" long.
Screw Drivers (you will need a Philips and a Flat Head)
Tin Snips (maybe. I found them help for removing the heat shield)
Penetrating Lubricant (spray on manifold nuts and lets soak a few times before trying to loosen.)
Maybe some ziploc baggies and a sharpie.
I had flanges welded on to the headers so that I could change out the Hi-flow Cats with the stock Cats.
I would recommend using aftermarket cats because there have been cases of the stock cats failing after headers have been put on.
(Ignore the Flanges on the Cats. I tried to do it a different way then anyone else has that I know of and it didn’t work. So NO flanges on the Cats.)
Park your truck preferably on flat ground and close to a power source (Will be mandatory depending on how you choose to install your cats and rest of exhaust.) set the emergency break and chock the back wheels if you can for extra safety.
Loosen your lug nuts on both front tires. Then jack up your truck and set it on jack stands. Take off the lug nuts and then the tires.
. Remove both front inner fender well liners by taking out the screws and clips. Then wiggle it out of there and set some where safe and out of the way. (You may want to put you screws and clips in a baggy or can and label the content inside)
Before you do anything else let the exhaust and motor cool if you haven't already!
Loosen the O2 sensors in the B-pipes do not take out yet. Take the nuts off the B-pipes flanges (4 nuts two at top of B-pipe and two at the bottom of B-pipe) and leave B-pipes where they are for now. Keep nuts in safe place if you plan on reusing the stock B-pipes.
Now is time for the piece of 2x4. Look under the motor and you will see a flat portion of the aluminum floor pan. This is the jack point for the motor. There is a ridge on one side of the pan so I cut the 2x4 to fit on the flat part beside the ridge. Make sure that your 2x4 and jack will clear the power steering line that runs through the area. Then place the jack under the pan, place the 2x4 on the top of the jack and then jack up the engine slightly to relieve pressure on the motor mount bolts.
Unbolt the motor mounts most of the way. The instructions say to completely remove them but I just loosened them most the way maybe a couple turns from being completely free. I felt it was safer this way because the motor would not be able to sift and later when it came to reinstalling it all back up the holes wouldn't match up and you would have to fight with the motor so you could bolt it back in place. The motor mounts are located one on each side of the motor. To put it simple you will see a piece of metal that is bolted to the frame as well as the motor.
Now slowly jack up the motor while watching the motor mounts to make sure that you do not try to jack the motor up farther than the bolts will let you.( could cause some damage like bent motor mounts)
So once the motor is as high as the bolts will allow go ahead and unbolt the heat shields. There are for bolts that you must loosen. Once loosened you will need to either remove the O2 sensors from the manifolds or do as I did and use tin snips and cut the heat shield so you can get it past the O2 wires. You may have to use some force to get it out of there. For me the driver’s side came right out but I had to unfold the passenger’s side so it was flat to get it out. Some people will cut it into multiple peaces to make it easier for them. Now would be a good time to spray some of that penetrating lube on the manifold nuts.
Remove the O2 sensors from the manifold know and place in a safe area. Do not let the tip of them bang around or hit anything they are very sensitive. (Good luck cause mine were gulled, so I had to buy two new ones and they are not cheap).
Remove the bolt that holds the dip stick tube. You will not be able to remove it until the exhaust manifold is completely loss. spray the manifold nuts again and let it soak for a few.
Unbolt the passenger’s side exhaust manifolds and remove the dip stick from engine block. After the manifold is unbolted take it off the studs and push it forward so you can move the B-pipe to the side making room for the manifold to come out. Then remove the B-pipe and set to the side.
Do the same for the drivers side except the dipstick.
Now put on your exhaust gasket and JBAs. Remember for the passenger side to put the dipstick back in. Your are going to have to torque down the nuts for the headers to 33ft lb. working from the inside out. Then put the O2 sensors into the O2 bungs on the headers. Remember put anti-seize on the treads of the O2 sensors!
Now tighten the motor mount bolt till flush with the plate and then lower the motor. Now finish tightening the motor mount bolts all the way. Put on the wheels and lower the car. Drive to the exhaust shop and have them make you new B-pipes. (I will also be having them make me another B-pipe wit the stock cats in them for when I have to get my truck smoged here in CA.) Make sure the put the O2 sensors back into the B-pipes as well. Then check for any leaks. In a few days retorque the header nuts. I would also recommend doing it again a week after the install just to make sure everything is ok. (JBA says after a hundred miles recheck the bolts.) After you have done a few retorqueings jack up the truck and reinstall the wheel well liners.
IF YOU DO NOT HAVE NEW B-PIPES MADE AND ARE GOING TO REUSE THE STOCK B-PIPES THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED TO DO.
I would recommend that even here you use aftermarket cats
This is JBA’s instructions.
7. Remove the manifold/cat assembly from the truck.
8. The Catalytic Convertor needs to be cut from the factory manifold. Make a mark 3/16 of an inch above the weld at the convertor. Now carefully make your cut as squarely as possible.
9. Temporarily install your new JBA Header (3 nuts will do).
10. Lower the engine and reinstall the motor mount.
11. Bolt the driver side convertor to the exhaust system, then move the entire exhaust system forward into place.
Reconnect the passenger side manifold/cat assembly to the exhaust.
12. Align the driver side header collector with the catalytic converter so that the convertor slips into the collector.
With it properly aligned and in place, tack-weld the two together securely enough that it cannot move.
13. With the header and convertor tacked together, unbolt the convertor from the exhaust system, remove the
motor mount, raise the engine up again, and then remove the header/convertor assembly.
14. Finish welding the header and catalytic convert together. Make sure there are no pinhole leaks.
(Avoid prolonged exposure to high temperature and heat build up by welding in segments and allowing cat assembly to cool)
Instructions taken from here:
before header video of exhaust.
After header video of exhaust.