I have a 2005 Nissan Titan that randomly has no crank no start. When i move the key to crank position I either hear a click/"ding" noise at the starter or nothing at all. I've replaced battery, starter two times (one with remanufactured and one with new Autozone starters), negative ground wire, positive fusible link, cleaned all grounds in engine bay, replaced the starter relay ecm relay and ign relay in IPDM.
I'm currently deployed right now and trying to come up with a new course of action to figure this random no crank issue out without spending thousands at the dealer. I'm going to list some things that I'm going to try next and hope some generous people on here can advise.
1.) Just ordered updated IPDM for $350 off ebay (my ipdm is the stock white one and i plan on keeping this truck for as long as possible) I'm not 100% sure if this will fix my problem since others usually replace if they get a crank no start which is different than my problem but it's more of a piece of mind for long term reliability.
2.) Clean/replace ignition switch which was recommended by someone with identical starting issues with Nissan Armada. This wouldn't be the lock cylinder but the electrical contacts part of the switch. I'm definitely thinking this could be the culprit because a few times I've had the key out of ignition and it would still make chime noise as if the key was still in ignition. Here is the link to cleaning the ign. Switch contacts:
I could also just get any used ignition switch cheap from car-part.com U.S. wide from 2005-2015 Nissan Titans that would be compatible for under $100.
3.) Send ECM off to be repaired for around $150. I've saw other forums having the same problem and solved by repairing solder joints inside ECM that can seperate or break contact. Instead of buying a new ECM theres a couple places that can repair ECMs for much cheaper.
The 3 above would be my top 3 parts of concern in solving my random no crank issue. If anyone has opinions at all whether you agree or disagree with these 3 being main concerns, PLEASE SHARE.
One of the first things i want to do (after much research) when i get back is using a multimeter to see how many volts I get at the starter control wire connector that runs from IPDM and ignition. At that disconnected connection in the back driver side of engine, i can jump power to the starter side over and over to see if i get the no crank from the starter itself. On the other side of that connection that runs to starter relay in IPDM, I can use multimeter to see how many volts im getting from ignition switch when cranking (i would have someone crank over and over with key and see if the volts drops low enough not to properly engage starter). This brings me to a big question, how many volts should i be getting to that starter control wire connection when key is in crank position?? I'm thinking there's an issue with either IPDM or Ignition Switch that doesn't send enough volts for starter to fully start turning on the secondary starting circuit side. I've heard you can have just enough volts to get starter solenoud to click but not enough to have starter motor engage. PLEASE ADVISE!!