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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I did my first oil change @ 1026 miles. I feel better doing this with a new vehicle. Next change at 3000 miles then on to every three thousand there after.
#1 You all were correct in stating it appears as though the filter was tightened so it could never be removed, I won, it came off.
#2 The oil pan is the strangest I've ever seen. It's a tiny little separate
item instead of a traditional one.
#3 The trick little pan under the filter to keep the oil from running all over everything.
#4 Have any of you considered leaving the tin engine guard off?
#5 The ratcheting oil cap, I've never seen one.
Clint
 

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Clint said:
#3 The trick little pan under the filter to keep the oil from running all over everything.
This doesn't totally work for me. It still drips on my skid plate. :(

Clint said:
##5 The ratcheting oil cap, I've never seen one.
Ratcheting oil cap? Well, well, well! I have never noticed that! I just had to go out and test it for myself and found that just like the gas cap, it ratchets! Thanks dude! :D
 

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SHIFT_I did it the hard way... I earned it.
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Dealer did my first two oil changes (hey, it was free). I did notice the nice drip tray, but haven't seen it in use myself yet. Soon, though. Nice tips to know.
 

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Clint said:
#2 The oil pan is the strangest I've ever seen. It's a tiny little separate
item instead of a traditional one.
Clint
The bottom of the casting on most engine blocks stop at the centerline of the crank main bearings, so a oil pan the size of the bottom of the block is needed. That pan must extend down far enough to clear the crank, then drop down more for the sump. Pushrod engines usually have the oil pump in this sump.
The block casting on the Nissan 5.6 has much deeper "skirts". These skirts extend down past the centerline of the crank, giving much more strength, and allowing the main caps to be cross bolted. This makes the lower end much stronger. The black sheet metal pan is just a sump, for the oil pickup. No more oil pan is needed since the crank assembly is enclosed by the skirts on the block.
 

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scr38 said:
Clint said:
#2 The oil pan is the strangest I've ever seen. It's a tiny little separate
item instead of a traditional one.
Clint
The bottom of the casting on most engine blocks stop at the centerline of the crank main bearings, so a oil pan the size of the bottom of the block is needed. That pan must extend down far enough to clear the crank, then drop down more for the sump. Pushrod engines usually have the oil pump in this sump.
The block casting on the Nissan 5.6 has much deeper "skirts". These skirts extend down past the centerline of the crank, giving much more strength, and allowing the main caps to be cross bolted. This makes the lower end much stronger. The black sheet metal pan is just a sump, for the oil pickup. No more oil pan is needed since the crank assembly is enclosed by the skirts on the block.
I was just about to type that! :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One observation I forgot to mention. My truck is an LE, I'm not sure which others will or won't do this but do you know that if you turn the truck off and before you open the door you still can open or close your power windows for approximately 1 minute? It's called retained power.
I had my Frontier for at least 6 months before I realized it(never tried) even though I knew my Quest could do it too. Yesterday after owning the Titan for 2 weeks I was sitting in the truck and hit the button getting ready to unlock the doors and the window moved.

Clint
 

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yup!! my wifes 03 trd tacoma does that too, as well as our titans, not sure about the XEs with preferred power package. i'm sure you knew this also but you can roll the windows down with your keyfob too and raise and lower the windows by sticking the key in and turning left or right for 3 seconds, also on the keyfob you hold down the unlock button till the desired lowering of the windows is achieved...
 
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