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Discussion Starter #1
Bought my 2007 Titan last Spring. Had no starting problems until outside overnight temperatures dropped into teens and twentys this Winter. After cold soaking overnight, engine would fire right up sometimes but sometimes would turn over but not fire. Bought new battery. Didn't correct problem. Just had IPDM replaced. Didn't correct problem.

- when failing to start after night of cold temperatures:
Battery and starter seem to be turning engine very well, but no firing at all.
When not firing, if jumper to wife's car's battery, fires up instantly.

Could the starter be too weak at cold temperatures? One person told me he had similar problem with another type vehicle and had to replace the starter. If you know the fix to this problem, please let me know.
 

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I doubt it is the starter motor. In the days of carburators (and even 6 V batteries) , I have had cars start with very slow cranking speeds.
Any chance something is not correct with the new IPDM ? What about the fuses in the battery connector (wild guess) ?
I had a GMC and a VW that would not start unless you put a splash of gasoline into the injector body ; then they both ran perfectly .
 

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did the battery you got have enough cold cranking amps? I have no problems with mine in sub-zero weather and my battery is 800 cold cranking amps.
 

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Have you checked your terminals? Perhaps you have a bad terminal that is not allowing enough power to crank the motor when it is cold. Also, perhaps your battery is a dud? What kind of battery did you get and what are the specs? My Optima yellow top D34 with 750CCA fires my truck up every time even when it is -40 degrees and the truck has not been run in weeks.
 

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Same year truck, same problem. Finally, check engine light came on. Dealer found that the air cleaner had not been changed for 50,000 by their "professionaly trained technicians". Anyhow, replaced filter, problem stopped. They did replace the rear O2 sensor, but I think the filter was the problem. Truck sat in drive for 2 days at 10deg.F, fired up this morning just fine. Worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How thread initiators cold-start problem was resolved

Thanks all for your inputs. Dealer had to replace both the IPDM and the main computer (I don't have service invoice in front of me now, and I can't remember the proper name of the computer. But it's the one that the federal government says must be warrantied in all vehicles for 8 years; that one.) The senior tech said they found the IPDM was bad by tapping on it and observing changes in output functions. They thought that would solve the problem, couldn't verify because daily low temps had risen too high for cold soak. Next cold front came in a week later and truck would not start, exhibited same symptoms as original ones. Went back to dealer. Dealer checked with NISSAN. NISSAN recommended testing main computer by putting in freezer to cold soak and test for errors. That uncovered error condition that wouldn't allow secondary power to the IPDM (if I remember correctly what the senior tech told me). Brought the truck back home. Daily low temps have since dropped to levels at which truck would not start before. Now truck starts right up. Problem resolved by replacing both IPDM and main computer.
 

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I am experiencing this same issue since Oct 2019.
  • The truck would not start on cold soak in OH (20 degrees or so).
  • Replaced the IPDM and battery was dead so had to jump it with my wife's Acadia, and it fired right up.
  • Next cold morning, same issue was present, it would crank but would not start
  • Jumped it again and started right up
    • Never thought it was a battery issue b/c it cranks fine for a long time until I run out the battery.
  • Replace the batter with a new one (only paid tax cuz it was still under warranty at Costco)
  • It seemed this fixed the issue, but the symptoms returned about 10 days later.
  • This morning, it would not fire up after sitting for two days, but hasn't been too cold (about 30)
  • Jumped it and started right away
So now, I am wondering if it is the ECU. Do any of you think this may be a good option?
This issue is making me hate Nissan, although this has been the only issue I've had to deal with my Titan since I bought it new in 2007.

- Jan 2020

I finally took it to the Nissan dealership and they spent 10 days scratching their heads on it. They even reached out to their HQ Nissan support for help on this. They did all sort of test and they verified that:
  • Is receiving spark at the spark plugs
  • Fuel pressure is adequate a the fuel injectors
  • They claim no short exists, but I suspect there is
  • Traced every connector in the meter and found some corrosion
They cleaned up the corrosion and it still would not start on cold, so they put a new battery on. So their diagnostic was that the battery was degraded and there was corrossion in a connector. I took it home after dropping $800 for this service and I was happy. I parked it and only used it about 3 times.
On the 4th time, it would not start again. Called Nissan again and I will be dropping it off once more, but I'm not paying them anymore money. Here is what I suspect.
  • There is a short, probably in the aftermarket radio
  • This short is causing the batter to degrade even while parked with a brand new battery
  • This is the third batter I've been through since October (Feb now)
  • Two brand new batteries
I've attached images to the dealer service notes for your enjoyment. They had a four-page novel on my Titan so grab a cup of coffee and enjoy!
65648

65649

65650

65651
 

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I am experiencing this same issue since Oct 2019.
  • The truck would not start on cold soak in OH (20 degrees or so).
  • Replaced the IPDM and battery was dead so had to jump it with my wife's Acadia, and it fired right up.
  • Next cold morning, same issue was present, it would crank but would not start
  • Jumped it again and started right up
    • Never thought it was a battery issue b/c it cranks fine for a long time until I run out the battery.
  • Replace the batter with a new one (only paid tax cuz it was still under warranty at Costco)
  • It seemed this fixed the issue, but the symptoms returned about 10 days later.
  • This morning, it would not fire up after sitting for two days, but hasn't been too cold (about 30)
  • Jumped it and started right away
So now, I am wondering if it is the ECU. Do any of you think this may be a good option?
This issue is making me hate Nissan, although this has been the only issue I've had to deal with my Titan since I bought it new in 2007.

- Jan 2020

I finally took it to the Nissan dealership and they spent 10 days scratching their heads on it. They even reached out to their HQ Nissan support for help on this. They did all sort of test and they verified that:
  • Is receiving spark at the spark plugs
  • Fuel pressure is adequate a the fuel injectors
  • They claim no short exists, but I suspect there is
  • Traced every connector in the meter and found some corrosion
They cleaned up the corrosion and it still would not start on cold, so they put a new battery on. So their diagnostic was that the battery was degraded and there was corrossion in a connector. I took it home after dropping $800 for this service and I was happy. I parked it and only used it about 3 times.
On the 4th time, it would not start again. Called Nissan again and I will be dropping it off once more, but I'm not paying them anymore money. Here is what I suspect.
  • There is a short, probably in the aftermarket radio
  • This short is causing the batter to degrade even while parked with a brand new battery
  • This is the third batter I've been through since October (Feb now)
  • Two brand new batteries
I've attached images to the dealer service notes for your enjoyment. They had a four-page novel on my Titan so grab a cup of coffee and enjoy!
View attachment 65648
View attachment 65649
View attachment 65650
View attachment 65651
I have a 2010 Titan SE Crew Cab ( 146,000 miles) with the same exact issues. It started 4 months ago with an intermittent no start but then would fire right up with no problem. It became a bigger issue in temps below 40 degrees F and in damp conditions. I replaced the battery, the negative battery cable, the positive fusible link block, with no luck. I went ahead and replaced the alternator and IPDM, but that did not help. I then discovered a parasitic draw of 70mA draining my new battery overnight (it should only be 30-35mA in sleep mode). After downloading the service manuals and spending many hours researching, I performed mA draw tests pulling fuses individually...still no luck. I performed a voltage drop test on every fuse...still no luck. I read of many people blaming the ECM relay on the IPDM. I had already changed my entire IPDM, so the relay didn't seem like it could be the problem. I just in the past day found the cause of my parasitic draw. It was a single wire connected to a positive lug at the battery fusible link block. I returned to the service manual to further study the power supply wiring diagram and discovered that this solid white wire was a fusible link feeding the ECM relay control. It is Terminal 7 in the schematic and terminates into a harness on the IPDM (E119 or E43, depending on whether you have type A or type B IPDM). Terminal 1 and 2 from the battery fusible link block are primary feeds to the ECM. I have yet to remove the braided housing and further inspect the Terminal 7 wire but can feel a splice and fuse thru the jacket. I suspect this fusible link has melted and is causing all of my problems. I am on pause until I get another day off from work. I will post my results when I finish troubleshooting. I understand your frustration for spending unnecessarily on parts and labor. I hope this info helps!
 

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h
I have a 2010 Titan SE Crew Cab ( 146,000 miles) with the same exact issues. It started 4 months ago with an ......
Hey, thanks for your great feedback! I also did a parasitic draw just today and I think I found one. I'm not sure if I was using the Ohm Meter correct, but I had it set at 10A and was reading .19 when in sleep mode.
I dropped it off at the dealer tonight so they will be looking at it again and I'll post the results.
 

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Issue continued to persist after driving the truck home from the dealer. It sat for about 5 days and it was about 25 deg, so it was cold and would not start until I jumped it. I took it back to the dealer, they re-run tests and kept it for 2 days. They had no problem starting it up throughout the 2 days they had it. So they recommended hooking up a batter tender/maintainer while it sits for long periods.
So that is exactly what I have done. I bought a batter tender for $15 at Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/STANLEY-1-Amp-Automatic-Battery-Maintainer-BM1S/453321945 and installed it inside the engine compartment. I ran the plug through the front grill and I just hook it up when not in use. When I need to use it, I just unplug it and go about my way. I tried it the next day after snow and about 15 deg, and it fired right up. I think this problem has been resolved, but I still don't understand why after 12 years of owning this truck, it just started doing this!
. I used zip ties to hold it temporarily to the side wall next to the battery and super grab epoxy to adhere more permanent. Then I screwed the ground to where the cable grounds to the chassis, and positive to the batter positive cable.
Here are some pics of my installation of the battery tender
65653


65654


65655
 

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Thanks for the input folks. I have a 2010 Titan Crew Cab. The first time I experienced this issue was 2 years ago when I moved from Florida to Tennessee. Nissan replaced my ECM back in 2018. Throughout the 2019 winter I would experience minor issues. I’d try to crank the car and it would be completely unresponsive. I’d wait a few seconds and it fired right up with no issues. Check out this YouTube video for a simple $5 fix I wish I knew about: search “Nissan Titan or Armada no start ecm relay replacement”
Yesterday my Titan really started acting up. It would turn over as long as I turned the key but wouldn’t fire up. The temperature was in the teens. I had it towed to Nissan. They said the positive battery cable was loose on the terminal so it shorted the ECM. They said it was permanently damaged so the truck will only start when it’s warm. They want me to pay to replace the ECM again. I declined. It was low 50’s that afternoon and the truck fired up just fine, so I drove home. I had the same issue this morning before work. The temperature was in the teens again. I don’t know much about electrical, but I’m going to give Hector’s temp fix battery maintainer a shot. Hopefully it to buys me some time to learn the electrical diagrams and fix it myself. It’ll be mid 50’s this afternoon, so I’ll see if it cranks with any issues. Also note: you can get an OEM ECU online for a fraction of the cost the dealership sells it for. You still need the dealer to program it though after it’s installed.
 

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Thanks for the input folks. I have a 2010 Titan Crew Cab. The first time I experienced this issue was 2 years ago when I moved from Florida to Tennessee.
Hey Koolrunnerboy, try jump starting it with another car. I'll bet you $100 it will start right up! If it starts on jump, it is an issue with the battery. I'm still baffle that after 12 years with this truck, it is the first time I've experienced this.
That $5 relay fix I tried right away but didn't fix anything. I'm eager to hear back what you find out.

-Hector
 
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