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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's some pics I took when I changed the ATF fluid and filter in the 4x2 Titan I used to own. They apply to the 4x4's as well. I did this fluid change at 20K miles and it still looked brand new......I'm not totally sure what the Nissan Matic-J ATF is made of but it must be good because I ran the heck out of that truck, just like I do the 4x4 I have now...As always better/larger pics are available at my pixagogo link. Also you'll need 4 qts. of the Nissan Matic-J fluid to do this change, and that stuff is pricey....about $12 to $13/qt. and the filter was $15.



















 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The filter is shown in one of the pictures I attached but it seems like it doesn't want to come up. I'll recheck it tonight and make sure there's not a problem with the pixagogo link. Go to my pixagogo link and you'll see the full size pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SUBTITAN said:
Did you have any issues with the oil pan gasket sealing?
Not at all, nor did I buy new bolts with factory "sealer" on them. The pan gasket is rubber with a metal insert in it to help it stay formed. I re-used it as well and not once had a leak.
 

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Steps from service manual

A/T FLUID PFP:KLE40
Changing A/T Fluid ECS007S6
1. Increase ATF oil temperature to 80°C (176°F) once.
2. Stop engine.
3. Remove the tightening bolt for ATF level gauge.
4. Drain ATF from drain plug and refill with new ATF. Always refill same volume with drained fluid.
 To replace the ATF, pour in new fluid at the charging pipe with the engine idling and at the same time
drain the old fluid from the radiator cooler hose return side.
 When the color of the fluid coming out is about the same as the color of the new fluid, the replacement
is complete. The amount of new transmission fluid to use should be 30 to 50% of the stipulated amount.
CAUTION:
 Use only Genuine NISSAN ATF Matic Fluid J. Do not mix with other fluid.
 Using automatic transmission fluid other than Genuine NISSAN ATF Matic Fluid J will cause
deterioration in driveability and automatic transmission durability, and may damage the automatic
transmission, which is not covered by the warranty.
 When filling ATF, take care not to scatter heat generating parts such as exhaust.
5. Increase ATF oil temperature to 80°C (176°F) once.
6. Check fluid level and condition. Refer to AT-10, "Checking A/T Fluid" . If fluid is still dirty, repeat step 2.
through 5.
7. Install the removed ATF level gauge in the fluid charging pipe.
 

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tranny pan removal

1. Drain A/T fluid, refer to MA-23, "Changing A/T Fluid" .
2. Remove oil pan and gasket.
NOTE:
If the fluid is very dark, smells burned or contains foreign particals, the friction material (clutches, band)
may need replacement
INSTALLATION
CAUTION:
If friction material is detected, flush the transmission cooler after repair, refer to AT-12, "A/T FLUID
COOLER CLEANING PROCEDURE" .
1. Install the oil pan magnet.
2. Install the oil pan and gasket.
CAUTION:
 Be sure the oil pan drain plug is located to the rear of the transmission assembly.
 Before installing oil pan bolts, remove any traces of old sealant from the sealing surfaces and
threaded holes.
 Do not reuse old gasket, replace with a new one.
 Always replace the oil pan bolts as they are self-sealing.
 Partially install the oil pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern to prevent dislocation of the gasket.
3. Tighten oil pan bolts as shown.
4. Install drain plug in oil pan.
CAUTION:
Do not reuse old drain plug gasket replace with a new one.
5. Refill the transmission assembly with fluid. Refer to MA-23, "Changing A/T Fluid" .
 
G

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Anybody got the instructions on how do the entire fluid flush? I mean the fluid from converter and all. I have always had it done, as it is just too messy for me. At the same time, I can't see doing it withoiut flushing the converter also, you are adding new fluid to old if you don't.
 

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Well if it is anything like my Supra (and automatics are automatics) and it should be, then you will have to take it and have it hooked up to a machine to fully "flush" the old tranny fluid out and fill it back up. You could also drop the tranny and converter too, but that just seems like too big of a mess especially on a 20K mile truck.

I've also heard that is alright to keep a little bit of the old tranny fluid in as it won't hurt anything and is actually safer to leave a little bit of the older fluid in to mix with the new fluid.

Hope this helps.

JD
 

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Re: Steps from service manual

GETSOMZ28 said:
A/T FLUID PFP:KLE40
Changing A/T Fluid ECS007S6
1. Increase ATF oil temperature to 80°C (176°F) once.
2. Stop engine.
3. Remove the tightening bolt for ATF level gauge.
4. Drain ATF from drain plug and refill with new ATF. Always refill same volume with drained fluid.
 To replace the ATF, pour in new fluid at the charging pipe with the engine idling and at the same time
drain the old fluid from the radiator cooler hose return side.
 When the color of the fluid coming out is about the same as the color of the new fluid, the replacement
is complete. The amount of new transmission fluid to use should be 30 to 50% of the stipulated amount.
CAUTION:
 Use only Genuine NISSAN ATF Matic Fluid J. Do not mix with other fluid.
 Using automatic transmission fluid other than Genuine NISSAN ATF Matic Fluid J will cause
deterioration in driveability and automatic transmission durability, and may damage the automatic
transmission, which is not covered by the warranty.
 When filling ATF, take care not to scatter heat generating parts such as exhaust.
5. Increase ATF oil temperature to 80°C (176°F) once.
6. Check fluid level and condition. Refer to AT-10, "Checking A/T Fluid" . If fluid is still dirty, repeat step 2.
through 5.
7. Install the removed ATF level gauge in the fluid charging pipe.
RE: #4 "...To replace the ATF, pour in new fluid at the charging pipe with the engine idling and at the same time drain the old fluid from the radiator cooler hose return side", how can I identify which line is from the cooler hose return side...and is it at the radiator or transmission?
Thanx - Kevin
 

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I never did see any tranny filter in those photos. Did I miss something??? My dealer said they do not have any filters and does not list any parts. Any advice???
 

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The flat piece with the screen in it (pictures 4 and 5) are the tranny filter.

JD
 

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That is because the Titan does not have a transmission filter !!!!

Removing the pan is not needed at all. Just use the drain plug and other procedures.
 

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Dropping the trans pan for inspection (at 50k)is likely worthwhile. When I changed trans oil in my 1985 300Z at 80K it was very clean ;one paper towel wiped "dust" off the pan (was painted gloss black). I have changed oil in a bunch of GM transmissions ; they normally require a putty knife to scrape up 1/8 to 1/4 inch of wear debris. Makes you appreciate Nissan. GM that I owned all had to have filters because there was so much wear debris in the oil. It was amazing to me that these transmissions were still able to operate normally.
 

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fixin to change my transmission fluid. Do you put the new fluid in the same place that the dip stick goes. How do you get the rubber dust boot off the rear of the transmission where the slip yoke goes in. My slip yoke is leaking from the plug in the middle of the slip yoke but I want to change the rear transmission seal while I have my drive shaft off
 

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I tried to change the rear transmission seal when I changed the u joints but could not figure out how to get that dust boot off without messing the boot up
 

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