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Discussion Starter #1
I came across this info a couple of months ago while cruising the 350Z section of the Technosquare site. With the exception of the ecu reset procedure, all the other procedures are available in the Titan service manual. The ecu reset procedure in invaluabe, as it allows almost instant reset of the ecu's RAM instead of the usual method of disconnecting the battery and guessing as to how long you must leave it disconnected.

I think it's important to do this procedure periodically, as it basically recalibrates the electro-mechanical positioners, namely the throttle valve positioner and the accelerator pedal positioners. After some use, these things get a little out of whack, and get kinda lost. This can cause problems like loss of power and idle issues. This method restores the proper min/max position voltages that the ecu sees from them.

I, personally, have seen the best improvement in my engine by doing the full procedure, starting with the ecu reset, followed by the other procedures. In fact, after doing this, I got back some of my low end grunt I'd lost over the past months. I can actually catch a bit of rubber now, which I haven't been able to do for a long time! It also cured a slightly erratic idle problem I was having.

Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple of tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here!

From Technosquare website:

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

ECU Resetting Procedures

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thounsand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
 

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Hmmm . . . How many feet of rubber are we talking here? :nervous:

How many horsepower on the dyno can I expect from this little procedure? :)

Good stuff, I'll give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This obviously won't gain you anything, just recoup what you may have lost during many miles of operation. In my situation, I tried just the positioner relearning procedures a while back to see if it would cure the idle problem I mentioned....and it did. It didn't seem to change the performance much, if any. However when I came across the ecu reset procedure which recommended doing the reset, followed by all the other relearning procedures, the notice in low end power was very noticable. I don't fully understand why, because I've done the reset several times before using the battery disconn method after doing mods and never noticed an immediate improvement, which was expected as the ecu needs time to relearn the increased airflow seen. So why wiping the ecu memory clean and then doing the positioner relearning procedures netted me more low end torque, is a mystery to me.

This is how Technosquare does it, and they do know a little more about this ecu stuff than me, that's for sure! Like I mentioned, I think it's a good thing to do periodically, regardless of whether or not you see any performance gains from it. It can be a pain to get the timing down on it (esp the ecu reset and idle air learning) , but it's not too bad once you do it a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
RockyMtnTitan said:
This obviously won't gain you anything, just recoup what you may have lost during many miles of operation. In my situation, I tried just the positioner relearning procedures a while back to see if it would cure the idle problem I mentioned....and it did. It didn't seem to change the performance much, if any. However when I came across the ecu reset procedure which recommended doing the reset, followed by all the other relearning procedures, the notice in low end power was very noticable. I don't fully understand why, because I've done the reset several times before using the battery disconn method after doing mods and never noticed an immediate improvement, which was expected as the ecu needs time to relearn the increased airflow seen. So why wiping the ecu memory clean and then doing the positioner relearning procedures netted me more low end torque, is a mystery to me.

This is how Technosquare does it for the Z, and they do know a little more about this ecu stuff than me, that's for sure! Like I mentioned, I think it's a good thing to do periodically, regardless of whether or not you see any performance gains from it. It can be a pain to get the timing down on it (esp the ecu reset and idle air learning) , but it's not too bad once you do it a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oopsy...I have no idea how I replied to my own post!
 

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Hey Rkymtn (or anybody else)...I've been waiting to ask this, and pretty much know the answer, but I am about to install my Gibson system...should I do this after the install to reset, or just unhook the battery?

Thanks.
 

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Thanks for the info. I am replying to this so I know where to find it when I need it.

:informative:
 

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Thanks Rock! I saw this tread when you posted it...but it has taken me this long to find the spare few moments to go outside and do this. With all of the hot stop and go driving, I could really feel the truck bog down. So, I went outside with my Casio watch, and got it all right the FIRST time!!! I took it out for a ride and VOILA...brand new truck!!! It was like the day I brought her home...but better (the mods). Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
NKTITAN711 said:
Thanks Rock! I saw this tread when you posted it...but it has taken me this long to find the spare few moments to go outside and do this. With all of the hot stop and go driving, I could really feel the truck bog down. So, I went outside with my Casio watch, and got it all right the FIRST time!!! I took it out for a ride and VOILA...brand new truck!!! It was like the day I brought her home...but better (the mods). Thanks again!
That's exactly how I felt after doing this the first time.....restored my low-end grunt back to the day I bought her....and then some.

It was good for .09 sec at the track on my second run a couple weeks ago. This was after my ecm had been "learning" my slower, routine driving habits for only a week, approx. The next week at the track I ran identical times on runs 1 & 2...again, this was after doing a reset after run 1. I think there was no improvement this time because I had just done a reset a day or two prior to going to the track that week. Now, I find myself resetting quite often...maybe once a week or so.

Timing is tricky...sometimes I hit it the first time, other times it takes a few tries. Even did it the other night just counting in my head, one-one thousand, two...and so on, though I don't recommend this method, as you'll have better success with a stopwatch.

Now that you got it down...maybe at your Titan meet coming up, you can give a little "how to" clinic to others who might be struggling a bit with the reset ..whadda ya think?! :D
 

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Hey I finally got around to trying this what a difference. It set my truck back to the way it was when I got it 23,000 mile ago and man it now feels like brand new again except for the brakes.

Thanks for the tip. I go in for the real brake fix tomorrow so maybe it really will feel like the day I took her home.

Take care,
Chuck :D
 

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Thanks for the info RockyMtn! I did the ECU reset and it made a world of difference. The 35's chirp a lot easier and the truck just accelerates harder and more smoother. Got the Volant and Banks installed.
On a side note, I have the '05 and when I was running through the procedures, during step '5', the CEL quit blinking and went solid. I still did the rest of the procedures as you stated. It seemed to work still, which is great. Maybe a different firmware in the ECU I have????
Anyways, thanks!
-RR
 

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Discussion Starter #16
RonnieRocket said:
Thanks for the info RockyMtn! I did the ECU reset and it made a world of difference. The 35's chirp a lot easier and the truck just accelerates harder and more smoother. Got the Volant and Banks installed.
On a side note, I have the '05 and when I was running through the procedures, during step '5', the CEL quit blinking and went solid. I still did the rest of the procedures as you stated. It seemed to work still, which is great. Maybe a different firmware in the ECU I have????
Anyways, thanks!
-RR
Right on....nothing like free HP, huh?! :D
 

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Would the CEL light be the same as the "Service Engine Soon" light? I've checked the manual and cannot locate a CEL light for the 05 SE 4x4.
 
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SMPLMN said:
Would the CEL light be the same as the "Service Engine Soon" light? I've checked the manual and cannot locate a CEL light for the 05 SE 4x4.
Yes sir. Also known as a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp)
 

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Cool. I tried this procedure over the weekend and could not get the light to blink...guess its time I break out the handy dandy timex :lol:

Thanks again.
 

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I did the ECU reset and drove for a couple of days. .

There's nothing like FREE HP - Good look'n out RockyMtn ! !
 
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