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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Almost kicked my a$$!
Snapped two 3/8" ratchets off on the psgr side. Finally went out and bought a 1/2" ratchet and some sockets. That solved the problem. The nut attaching the stabilizer(?) bar to the lower control arm was the culprit. Of course, it probably didn't help that I used the old pipe trick to extend the handle for more torque...

One question for those others who have already done this mod - Were you able to FULLY re-seat the ball joint? When I took it apart, the bolt stuck out about 3/16" below the nut, but when I re-assembled it, I could only get about 1/32" - 1/16" of bolt showing below the nut. Obviously I couldn't get the replacement cotter pins in place. I placed a jack under the lower control arm and raised it, then took the emergency jack out and placed it between the wheel well and upper control arm to try to press the joint together. This got me about 1/32" but nowhere near the clearance I'd need to replace the cotter pins. I did torque the nuts but I'm concerned about the cotter pins. I assume there's a reason they were there in the first place...
I'm planning to take it for alignment tomorrow - should I have them check the ball joints, too? Is there some special tool for squeezing them together? Please give me your input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
BTW, the ride seems OK - no rattles or anything like that - I'm more concerned about long-term wear, etc.

I went to the dealer and parked beside a new 05 to compare (I'm assuming the 05's are alike in overall stature) and there is a noticeable difference. The higher front is obvious, as expected, but between the two mods, lift in front and leaf springs ir rear, my tailgate is about 1" - 1-1/4" lower than stock. I haven't measured, but it doesn't look to me like the rear end is lower at the wheels. Thay look level, as intended, but by swinging the front end up 2" and dropping the rear a little due to the leaf springs, the rear end of the truck is noticeably lower. Of course, that's a brand new truck and mine has 5600 miles on it so I would expect the rear to drop slightly due to the prings loosening a bit with use. Thanks for your help.
 

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SHIFT_I did it the hard way... I earned it.
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I haven't done the leveling kit, but I would definitely have the joints checked. You're right, the pins are there for a reason.
 

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The ball joint should seat 100% to where it was. Before driving it much more, pleas take a closer look to see what might keep it from seating. You should have my phone number on the instructions, please call me and we can go through this. thnaks...greg
 

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PrerunnerGreg said:
The ball joint should seat 100% to where it was. Before driving it much more, pleas take a closer look to see what might keep it from seating. You should have my phone number on the instructions, please call me and we can go through this. thnaks...greg
Hey Greg! Nice to see you over here at the Club!
 

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RAWCCD said:
Almost kicked my a$$!
Snapped two 3/8" ratchets off on the psgr side. Finally went out and bought a 1/2" ratchet and some sockets. That solved the problem. The nut attaching the stabilizer(?) bar to the lower control arm was the culprit. Of course, it probably didn't help that I used the old pipe trick to extend the handle for more torque...

One question for those others who have already done this mod - Were you able to FULLY re-seat the ball joint? When I took it apart, the bolt stuck out about 3/16" below the nut, but when I re-assembled it, I could only get about 1/32" - 1/16" of bolt showing below the nut. Obviously I couldn't get the replacement cotter pins in place. I placed a jack under the lower control arm and raised it, then took the emergency jack out and placed it between the wheel well and upper control arm to try to press the joint together. This got me about 1/32" but nowhere near the clearance I'd need to replace the cotter pins. I did torque the nuts but I'm concerned about the cotter pins. I assume there's a reason they were there in the first place...
I'm planning to take it for alignment tomorrow - should I have them check the ball joints, too? Is there some special tool for squeezing them together? Please give me your input.
Whoa! Do not drive it till you get that ball joint tightened back down! Greg should be able to set you straight . . . Did you see my thread by chance on my install?

http://www.clubtitan.org/postt1360.html
 

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PrerunnerGreg said:
The ball joint should seat 100% to where it was. Before driving it much more, pleas take a closer look to see what might keep it from seating. You should have my phone number on the instructions, please call me and we can go through this. thnaks...greg
Congrats Greg on your first ClubTitan post! :) Hope we see many more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
TitanHauler said:
RAWCCD said:
Almost kicked my a$$!
Snapped two 3/8" ratchets off on the psgr side. Finally went out and bought a 1/2" ratchet and some sockets. That solved the problem. The nut attaching the stabilizer(?) bar to the lower control arm was the culprit. Of course, it probably didn't help that I used the old pipe trick to extend the handle for more torque...

One question for those others who have already done this mod - Were you able to FULLY re-seat the ball joint? When I took it apart, the bolt stuck out about 3/16" below the nut, but when I re-assembled it, I could only get about 1/32" - 1/16" of bolt showing below the nut. Obviously I couldn't get the replacement cotter pins in place. I placed a jack under the lower control arm and raised it, then took the emergency jack out and placed it between the wheel well and upper control arm to try to press the joint together. This got me about 1/32" but nowhere near the clearance I'd need to replace the cotter pins. I did torque the nuts but I'm concerned about the cotter pins. I assume there's a reason they were there in the first place...
I'm planning to take it for alignment tomorrow - should I have them check the ball joints, too? Is there some special tool for squeezing them together? Please give me your input.
Whoa! Do not drive it till you get that ball joint tightened back down! Greg should be able to set you straight . . . Did you see my thread by chance on my install?

http://www.clubtitan.org/postt1360.html
It wa your post that convinced me to do it! It wasn't difficult except for a stuck nut and the trouble with the ball joints. They took a good 5-7 min of strong 'tapping' to get them apart so I assume they 'pressed' into position at the factory. The nuts are quite tight, just not seated to spec.
 

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RAWCCD said:
TitanHauler said:
RAWCCD said:
Almost kicked my a$$!
Snapped two 3/8" ratchets off on the psgr side. Finally went out and bought a 1/2" ratchet and some sockets. That solved the problem. The nut attaching the stabilizer(?) bar to the lower control arm was the culprit. Of course, it probably didn't help that I used the old pipe trick to extend the handle for more torque...

One question for those others who have already done this mod - Were you able to FULLY re-seat the ball joint? When I took it apart, the bolt stuck out about 3/16" below the nut, but when I re-assembled it, I could only get about 1/32" - 1/16" of bolt showing below the nut. Obviously I couldn't get the replacement cotter pins in place. I placed a jack under the lower control arm and raised it, then took the emergency jack out and placed it between the wheel well and upper control arm to try to press the joint together. This got me about 1/32" but nowhere near the clearance I'd need to replace the cotter pins. I did torque the nuts but I'm concerned about the cotter pins. I assume there's a reason they were there in the first place...
I'm planning to take it for alignment tomorrow - should I have them check the ball joints, too? Is there some special tool for squeezing them together? Please give me your input.
Whoa! Do not drive it till you get that ball joint tightened back down! Greg should be able to set you straight . . . Did you see my thread by chance on my install?

http://www.clubtitan.org/postt1360.html
It wa your post that convinced me to do it! It wasn't difficult except for a stuck nut and the trouble with the ball joints. They took a good 5-7 min of strong 'tapping' to get them apart so I assume they 'pressed' into position at the factory. The nuts are quite tight, just not seated to spec.
Well I'm glad to hear that! Sorry though that your having trouble. I am at a loss as to why you can get the nut threaded on the ball joint but it's not tightening up snug so you can put the new cotter pins in? I just don't remember this being a problem at all. Can you take a photo? It might be worth 1000 words.
 

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Ok, I've been here quite a while now, but I dont post much because I feel like I post too much already on TT. Any way, if anyone has questions on the kit or suspension in general, im always here. Thanks for the warm welcome too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Tried again and finally got the ball joints fully seated on the 3rd attempt. I spoke with Greg and he suggested threading the nuts on before installing to check the threads. In doing so, I discovered that the threads near the top (the tightest position) had some grime or something built up on them and the nut wouldn't turn all the way up. I cleaned the threads with a brush, applied a light coat of oil to the threads and the face of the nut where it meets the a-arm(?) and with a little persuation was able to fully seat the ball joints. I only used very little oil and I was able to insert the cotter pins so I'm not worried about the nuts coming off any time soon. I haven't yet had the alignment checked but I will later this week. Crisis averted. I also measured to the top of the curve on the fenders/box sides - 39" exactly on all four. It's really great to see out the back window now, too.

Only trouble now is deciding on my next mod - bed cover for fuel efficiency or nerf bars for my 5'2" wife to get into the cab...

Who am I kidding - bed cover!
 

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RAWCCD said:
Only trouble now is deciding on my next mod - bed cover for fuel efficiency or nerf bars for my 5'2" wife to get into the cab...

Who am I kidding - bed cover!
Hehe! My 5'2" wife says you are not right!

I have been pondering concerns over needing nerf bars after I lift mine. I really don't want them, but she is preggo right now, so getting in and out of the truck is getting a little more difficult for her. But hey! That's why Nissan gave us all those holy moly handles!
 

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RAWCCD said:
HavockWK said:
That's why Nissan gave us all those holy moly handles!
Yeah, but can she reach the handles? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Yeah, but hikin that leg up high enough to clear the door sill is still a bit of a problem with the big belly! :lol:
 

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RAWCCD said:
BTW, the ride seems OK - no rattles or anything like that - I'm more concerned about long-term wear, etc.

I went to the dealer and parked beside a new 05 to compare (I'm assuming the 05's are alike in overall stature) and there is a noticeable difference. The higher front is obvious, as expected, but between the two mods, lift in front and leaf springs ir rear, my tailgate is about 1" - 1-1/4" lower than stock. I haven't measured, but it doesn't look to me like the rear end is lower at the wheels. Thay look level, as intended, but by swinging the front end up 2" and dropping the rear a little due to the leaf springs, the rear end of the truck is noticeably lower. Of course, that's a brand new truck and mine has 5600 miles on it so I would expect the rear to drop slightly due to the prings loosening a bit with use. Thanks for your help.
Are the helper springs that you used like the ones used in JetTech's traction bar mod, (around $25), or the "add-a-leaf" type, ($125+?)?

I heard that the add-a-leaf type were supposed to raise the back an inch to an inch and a half.

If add-a-leaf, where did you find them for the Titan?
 
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