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How much harder is the install on a 4x4? If I can ever get the money to do it I want to install these on the new 2010 Pro-4x. Never installed headers and plan to do it myself so I can save the money.
hopefully someone that has done it on a 4x4 replies but from what i have read it is a little harder because there is more you have to disconnect i think i wrote it down im my right up as to what you have to do for 4x4 as well.
 

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really need some advise on the driverside front bolt. the one under the a/c compressor. i cant get a wrench or ratchet to it. anybody know/remember how the hell they got the bugger out.
 

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The front most bolts were the easiest for me with my Doug thorleys. I just used a deep well 14mm 1/2"drive socket, a 3"extension then a swivel adaptor and then like a 6" or 10" extension and was able to get rite at them. I'm not sure if the jba is set up different and you have pipe in the way though. Good luck.
 

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The front most bolts were the easiest for me with my Doug thorleys. I just used a deep well 14mm 1/2"drive socket, a 3"extension then a swivel adaptor and then like a 6" or 10" extension and was able to get rite at them. I'm not sure if the jba is set up different and you have pipe in the way though. Good luck.
tried a uni joint, tryied a swivel, i tried a box wrench. in the end i wound up takin a deep socket and cutting off about 3/8ths of an inch which made it fit perfect and it popped right off even though it was partially rounded.
 

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I just received my JBA headers.. I was told a good shop/welder could install then in 8 hours.. So I drop it off soon.. Can't wait to get rid of manifold ticking noise..
 

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FYI..

JBA Short Tube Headers are 50 State Legal / CARB Legal 2004-2013 5.6L Nissan Titan's and Armada's.

I attached the CARB letter I just received from JBA as I wanted to make sure the CARB number covered my new 13.
 

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I just did this in my armada. I bought header and cat sets from bear river converters.

First off I am writing this on my phone. Sorry for any typos, auto corrects, and poor formatting. If you read something that makes no sense then I probably didn't mean it that way :)

The install process took a looong time, like 20 hours across two days.

Here are my notes.

1.If your replacement headers support heat shields, reuse them if you can. Some say it isn't that important, but there are some cables and wires down there and car companies put them there for a reason... I'm paranoid like that.

2. In addition to the 1/2 driver, get yourself a breaker bar. You will thanks yourself later.

3. O2 socket for removal. I have two different ones and neither of them could fit around base of the wire... I bought new ones up front so I cut the wires. The stubby I used didn't fit either. Where did you get your O2 sensor socket that fits around the wiring? My two are craftsman and autozone.

4. Heat shields: if you have any intention of reusing them, be patient. These take massaging to work out. I took them both down the bottom down along the cats. They will want to get caught on many things (like the motor mounts - see my notes on those - and cats). So don't be afraid to bend the units to make them work. Also get your self a rubber mallet so you can pound the out on the old headers so they will fit if you put them back in. This can be done. It just takes time. I worked at this for almost an hour before getting things just right so they could come out. Also, it is important to have the engine jacked up to help you remove these.

5. Motor mounts: I removed them for the drivers side removal and the installation in both sides, and boy it was a lot easier. As long as your engine is supported and jacked up they pop out fairly easily as single units. It also makes it easier to insert the headers and the shields.

Pop them up at the outside while you are underneath (think the square holes on top). That makes room for them to slide down along the block. ( I did one side at a time). Also if you motor isn't centered while on the jack one side will be difficult to remove so a centered engine is key. They go right back in... At least they did for me.

7. Manifold stud by AC lines (this is a bit fuzzy in my memory): I initially broke it lose with a breaker bar and deep well socket.. Then used 3/8" socket with deepwell 14mm. Then a few turns later I switched to a 1/2" socket with u-joint to finish off. If you turn too far you won't be able to remove your socket and will have to back it back in.

This will be a bit of a bugger to reverse, but should be doable with mostly the 1/2" and u-joint.

8. O2 socket for install: a no-go for me again. The NTK sensors I used were too thick at the base of the wire. I threaded the sensor with my hands with the headers installed and shields sitting loosely in position.
Then worked the shield slightly so I could squeeze a stubby wrench in to tighten the rest of the way.

Is there any way to get a torque reading on these? I couldn't... So I guessed.

9. Dip stick tube: be careful with this. I was, and somehow I still bent it very slightly. I have no idea how but the holding bracket ended up being 1mm off and I spent 30 minutes fighting with it to get it's bolt back in.

Regarding sound. The Bear rivers I used sound a bit more throaty under 2000 rpm and are a bit quieter at speed.

Also if your cats were clogged your truck will run much smoother. I was surprised how much better mine ran. I am talking at least 70k miles newer good.
 

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Kudos for a taking on a job of mammoth proportions! Both of my headers were cracked at approximately 115K miles. Had my favorite local mechanic do the work as I didn't have the time, tools and or expertise to do it myself. I supplied the replacement parts and they did the labor. I'm very pleased the results but wish I have done the same as you!
 

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Nice write up and congrats on the fixed manifolds.
 

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Best Instructions Ever!!

I have to thank you for such great instructions. I have 220,000 on my 2006 Nissan Armada. About a year ago, I failed my emission test because of the Driver side catalytic converter error. I let a local shop complete the work with aftermarket parts and the total work cost $800. Three months later the check engine light comes on again which did not alarm me because I drove a while with the previously light on.

I took my truck in for emission (knowing I would fail) but at least I could see what was tripping the code. The shop tells be that I was having both bank 1 and bank 2 issues. The new mechanic tells me that the new CAT have gone bad and he could hear some unusual air inflows. Enough of the money dump!!!


I ran across your instructions and purchased an aftermarket passenger side catalytic converter along with 4 Bosch O2 sensors for less than the price of the original work. I changed everything out and the light came back on almost immediately. Two weeks later, I decided to double checked my torque on the catalytic converter I installed and everything was fine except for slight tightening of the bolts.

I decide to re-torque the bolts on the catalytic converter installed by the shop and noticed that one of the hard -to -reach bolts was not put on by the mechanic. I know that the driver side CAT is very difficult to put on which is why I took it to the shop the first place. Now, I have to figure out how to find a bolt and tighten it down.
 

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Cant figure out how to multi quote. To 04 off road and sensei. I have an 06' KC 4x4.

Just did JBA LT's and Cajun Catted B's. What a Bi**H!!!. I am not looking forward to the re-torque.

I used a 3' breaker bar. I also found that a high quality 3/8" drive universal joint was WAY more useful than the 1/2" counter part (was able to get more angle out of the smaller one). Just make sure you get quality universal joints , not the crappy "knuckle" type ones. You want the black hardened ball joint type.
To take the manifolds off, grind down a 14mm Deep socket so it's a bit shorter (you'll just have to look at it and see how much to grind down), I took a 1/4 to a 1/3" of mine, worked great, but it will be useless to put the headers back on.
To torque the headers down a 14mm flex head gear wrench will be indispensable, (I wish I didn't cheeped out on that one, I figured a regular and stubby 14mm would have done it, I was wrong) but mine is a 06' 4x4. I also had to grind down the top part of the motor mounts down about a 1/4" on both sides of the truck to clear the headers.

It's not an easy job, it's tedious. But feels pretty good to know you saved a butt load on labour when you finally finish.
Oh yeah, make sure you reward yourself. Once the headers are torqued down, before you bolt up the b-pipes. Fire it up, and burp the throttle a couple times. Wholly crap!!!, best sound I've ever heard from the T. Hehehe, I giggle every time I think about it.
 

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It's not an easy job, it's tedious. But feels pretty good to know you saved a butt load on labour when you finally finish.
Oh yeah, make sure you reward yourself. Once the headers are torqued down, before you bolt up the b-pipes. Fire it up, and burp the throttle a couple times. Wholly crap!!!, best sound I've ever heard from the T. Hehehe, I giggle every time I think about it.
Amen!

A 17mm gear head wrench is also a good buy for the bolts attaching the motor mounts to the frame. Clearance is minimal after the header install. I picked up a good standard length 17mm gear head combination wrench and cut off the open end so it would clear the motor.
 

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Knowing the 4x4 upgrade to headers is a b!#ch

I'm not a well-versed mechanic/welder, so I foresee taking the my truck with leaking exhaust manifold(s) to the shop(s). What do you recon is a fair price for the install? BTW, thank you for the great write-ups!:excellent:
 

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Very Nice write up
New to the forums and just read your write up. Great job. I am going to be doing this install on my 2004 Titan this weekend, so I am studying up as much as possible. I cannot see the photos that you posted. It just says that I need to "update my account to allow 3rd party hosting"? No idea what that means? Any other way to view your pics?
 
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