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Wow where do I start.. First I want to thank all of you for there help on this.. Well I have been on the phone with shailey about 4-6 times today about this problem. We found out it was the O2 sensor went bad.

Here all of the 12 codes that I have..

1.P1148
2.P1168
3.P0031
4.P0037
5.P0051
6.P0057
7.P1148PD
8.P1168PD
9.P0031PD
10.P0037PD
11.P0051PD
12.P0057PD

First thing this morning I want to the sound shop to have them solder the wires and ad some more wire but it did not work. So I went to radio shack and bought some 16gauge wire and a solder-iron. Went home and re-wired the entire O2 sensor. Then went back to autozone to clear the codes and I still have all 12 codes.. So Monday I will order a new O2 and install it and this should clear up the problem with the codes..

I will post some pictures of the melted wires and the melted plastic inner-fender Sunday..It is raining like cat and dogs right now..

scr38 said:
I would not drive back to that dealer. Their track record isn't very good, is it?
Anyone with wiring/soldering skills can fix this problem. Just be sure the wiring is secured so it can't come in contact, or even near, the hot exhaust system.
Yea this the same place that 2 members had major problems with there truck.. I bought all the stuff to solder wires now...
 

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The o2 sensor failed because of the wiring. There is a heater in the sensor that is powered by a wire in the harness that was damaged, and the heater wasn't being powered. If you run the engine without the heater powered it will ruin the sensor.
So all your problems and the failure of the sensor was due to the inept installation by that dealer. (Who seems to be good at that)
 

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It seems as though quite a few of us know about inept installations at the dealership.
 

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scr38 said:
The o2 sensor failed because of the wiring. There is a heater in the sensor that is powered by a wire in the harness that was damaged, and the heater wasn't being powered. If you run the engine without the heater powered it will ruin the sensor.
So all your problems and the failure of the sensor was due to the inept installation by that dealer. (Who seems to be good at that)
I was going to call them Monday, but it would be a waste of time...lol I am just going to buy a new O2 sensor and be done with it... Me and Kurk both had the headers done at the same dealership at the same time.. I just hope his does not burn up.. I will post pictures Sunday of all the melted stuff...Thanks for the help...

QShip said:
It seems as though quite a few of us know about inept installations at the dealership.
So far 4 people from CT went to that dealership...

Well good news I called around and Advance Auto Parts will have a new O2 sensor for me around 2:00 toady. It is made by Bosh with a 1 year warr. I will post the results of the new O2 later today here's some pictures of the melted plastic.
 

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Well I got the new O2 wires up, installed and still have codes...
P1148
P1168
0031
0051
P1148PD
P1168PD

I don"t know where to go now.. I guess drive 3hrs to the dealership that installed the headers...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
plm7878 said:
Well I got the new O2 wires up, installed and still have codes...
P1148
P1168
0031
0051
P1148PD
P1168PD

I don"t know where to go now.. I guess drive 3hrs to the dealership that installed the headers...
Oh No !!!! I aint liking the sound of this man. not at all.. Does anyone here at CT no what ANY of these codes mean ? Just curios
 

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Here is what stillen web site says about the install...

In order for the O2 sensor connectors to reach the
sensors, you will have to lengthen the wires. This is
best done through the wheel wells. Cut off the
connectors on the HARNESS side of the connector, leaving enough wire to attach the new wire to. Using
the provided wires, cut them in half and lengthen the harness enough to allow the sensor to be plugged in.
You are supplied with crimp connectors for convenience, however, the connections should be soldered and
taped. Zip tie the wires so there is no chance of them rubbing against the headers and melting.

They cut the wires at the O2 side not at the Harness side.. This is done on both side of the truck..So the heat gaurd on the O2 wires are not there..
 

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plm7878 said:
Well I got the new O2 wires up, installed and still have codes...
P1148
P1168
0031
0051
P1148PD
P1168PD

I don"t know where to go now.. I guess drive 3hrs to the dealership that installed the headers...
P1148 and P1168: The closed loop control function for Bank 1(1148) and Bank 2(1168) does not operate even when vehicle is driving in specified condition...Possible causes: Harness or connectors circuit is open or shorted, a/f sensor 1, a/f sensor 1 heater

0031 and 0051: The current amperage in the a/f ratio sensor 1 heater circuit is out of the normal range. (An excessively low voltage signal is sent to the ECM through the A/f ratio sensor 1 heater (both bank 1 and 2)...Possible causes: harness or connectors circuit is open or shorted, a/f sensor 1
 

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AgTitan06 said:
P1148 and P1168: The closed loop control function for Bank 1(1148) and Bank 2(1168) does not operate even when vehicle is driving in specified condition...Possible causes: Harness or connectors circuit is open or shorted, a/f sensor 1, a/f sensor 1 heater

0031 and 0051: The current amperage in the a/f ratio sensor 1 heater circuit is out of the normal range. (An excessively low voltage signal is sent to the ECM through the A/f ratio sensor 1 heater (both bank 1 and 2)...Possible causes: harness or connectors circuit is open or shorted, a/f sensor 1
I just replaced the O2 Sensor and wires that was melted. Do you think I got a bad O2 Sensor from discount auto parts? It was a Bosh if that matters...
 

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plm7878 said:
I just replaced the O2 Sensor and wires that was melted. Do you think I got a bad O2 Sensor from discount auto parts? It was a Bosh if that matters...
You're really asking the wrong person :)

I just looked up the codes for you from the service manual...but perhaps the ECU needs some time to cycle through before the codes clear?
 

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AgTitan06 said:
You're really asking the wrong person :)

I just looked up the codes for you from the service manual...but perhaps the ECU needs some time to cycle through before the codes clear?
Man I hope so, I really don't want to drive 3 hrs to the dealership then wait there and then drive back home...
 

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Transformer said:
Hey Stephen .. us FL boys will make any excuse to hook up for a Modfest day .....even if its just to properly install a Club Titan decal.
Thats funny, mine was a bit off center lol
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Keep us posted Philip ... especially if the codes finally do dissapear. Looks like i will have to redo mine too. .

How unfortunate .... you go to a dealership for the sole purpose of having "peace of mind" it will be done right (since THEY already know the Titan so well and this happens. Please please do not misunderstand this post. I aint knocking ALL dealerships but this one happens to already have a track record.

When I used to work at Florida Power & Light we had a motto that we tried to live by and that was simply this: "Do It Right The First Time" !! Sounds like they didnt follow the Stillen instructions and now we have issues to contend with, and this was NOT a cheap mod whatsoever !!
 

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I doubt if you purchased a bad sensor. I think you are going to find that the circuitry associated with the sensor has been damaged due to this. This is why I thought that getting it hooked up to a consult was the best way to find the problem. Regardless, the sensor itself needed to be replaced.

Sorry, but I would hammer this dealership. After looking at those pictures, I am still trying to figure out where in the world all of that heat is coming from.
 

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I also don't think you bought a bad sensor.
If you run the engine with the 02 sensor installed and no power to the heater in it, you will destroy the sensor - its that simple.
There is a good reason to lengthen the wiring on the harness side of the connector. I don't know if this is still true, but the wiring between the sensor and the connector is usually stainless. It isn't possible to get a good solder joint, since you can't solder to stainless. Even the crimp joints may give you problems because of the dis-similar metals.
I think you still have wiring problems, and may have ruined your new o2 sensor because of that.
 

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Well I called the dealership and they are going to replace both sides of the O2 sensor. I have to be there at 7:00am.. I emailed the service manger the pictures of the melted wires. He is going to fix the problem. I just hope the problem did not damaged more then just the O2 like the computer. I will post the results of what was wrong when I get home torromow night.

I am going to Kurks house torromow to look at his wires to make sure his wires are correct and install his N-Fabs.

Thank you for all the help on this problem..
 

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Well I just got home from the dealership and it was not a fun trip. I had to call shailey to school the tech on cutting the wires. Yes this is true. Then the tech was on the Nissan computer for around 2 hours and had to call the help desk. Well the problem is that when the wires melted it blown a fuse in the fuse block on the fire wall. So he replaced the fuse that was labled O2 sensor fuse and reset the codes. Then he test drove my truck and no more codes.. So now I know there is a fuse for the O2 sensor if this happens again... Thank you Shailey & Stillen for you help today.. .

So on the way back to the house, I stopped by Kurk"s house to install the N-fabs and it was a great install. They look good on the truck. Good news is Kurk's wires are done right, so he will not have to deal with the dealership.. I want to say thank you all the help on this problem...
 
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