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What oil do the experts here recommend. Due for an oil change for my 2005 SE gas TiTan and afer poking around on the forums saw some people recommend a lighter / thier oil.

Have the tow package, but never use it. Mostly suburban driving, not quite stop and go lights, but not open freeway either. Living in Vegas, so it gets pretty warm come summer.

Sorry for the back to back questions. New to the forum and can't sleep.

Thanks
 

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I just use royal purple can go wrong with that I think.
 

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5w-30 is the OEM spec for oil. I run 0w-30 AMSoil synthetic because I live in a colder climate.
 

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Amsoil 5W30. Save a few bucks with Amsoil XL or Amsoil OEM. They are all 100% synthetic. If you were still in warranty and wanted to change every 7500 you could use XL, if you wanted to change every 5,000, you could use OEM. Since you are probably out of warranty, you could take advantage of the extended drain interval and buy the regular premium Amsoil, just be sure to change your filter as usual and top off. There is a sponsor who is a dealer so you can buy from within the "family."
 

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This is a complex question.

You have to look at your driving style and etc...

Most are going to say syn becasue it lets you go longer between OCs and it also has a better range of protection.

The oem spec is a 5w30 but other oils can work too.

If you are looking for a WalMart oil, then M1, PP/PU, etc... should do fine and are pretty cost effective if you keep the change to 5-7k.

The only real way to make an informed decision is to look for used oil analysises from other VK56DE owners. Bobistheoilguy.com is a great site to find info like this.

You may also find that the timing chains on the VK tend to shear the oil pretty soon so it may be worth looking at a 40 grade (low 40 that is). You may take a slight hit on MPG but it may allow you to run a longer OC while staying within grade.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Follow Up Question

Thanks all for the INFO. Went with the 10W30 synthetic based on advice.

2 follow up questions:

1. Why is synthetic better and is it worth the extra cost? Is there any MPG gain with using synthetic?

2. Do I need to use something other than 10W30 when it gets blazing hot here in Vegas come summer??

90% plus of my driving is limited access road type of commute (55MPH limits) with occasional urban & occasional long drive freeway trips.

Thanks!!
 

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Not sure about the last post.......but, I use the Synthetic Pennzoil 5w30. My 08 ran better on that then the Mobile 1. A lot of Titans use the Mobile 1, and the Pennzoil
 

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FWIW, I get my oil analyzed by Blackstone Labs. They are telling me that my ~9,000 mile interval could be stretched further. I posted my lab results over at ClubTitan.org where a bunch of other Titan owners have also posted theirs.

I drove to Long Beach, CA last summer through Las Vegas. As part of my trip planning I asked AMSoil if the 0w-30 would be OK on this trip. They said it would do just fine. Which it did. I was carrying 4 kids plus about 600 lbs of camping gear. The temp gauge on the upper console hit 110 degrees.
 

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I use M1 5w-30 full syn. I don't change at an particular interval. Once it starts to change color, I change it out. I'd swag ~ every 4-5k miles.
 

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I'm with chris on the royal purple, but i'm also rough on the T. so that's mainly why. Drive it like you stole it!:feuerkopf2-big:

But really, there is a distinct difference between synthetic and not. i'm no chemical or oil buff, but there are guys on here that are. synthetics usually hold up better and last longer than conventional oils. that i know.
 

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hey i use 10w30 synthetic whats the diff between 10w30 and 5w30? thanks guys and dont mean to steal you thread just wanna know whats the diff and if i should switch to 5w30 or stay with 10w30
 

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Syns are engineered to withstand a larger range of temp differences and are more shear stable then their dino counterparts. They also have better flow characteristics and etc.....

You may notice a little bump in mpg but that is usually because your old oil was so bad, it was increasing the friction in the motor and the new oil is fresh and clean so less friction/heat and thus better mpg. This is also why syns seem to hold the mpg longer since they don't break down and thicken like the dinos will.

Now, running a 10w vs a 5w is mainly going to affect your cold starts but having the 2 numbers (5w30 has a delta of 25 while 10w30 has a delta of 20) closer seems to make the oil more stable for the long run. This is because less addatives are needed to be added to the 5/10 to make it perform like a 30 at operating temps.

Now for the oil looking dirty statement, that is a bit vague. Yes, oil gets dirty but that does not mean that it has lost its lubrication or cleaning ability. All it means is that it is working. Oil is subjected to extreme temps, blow-by and soot. All of these things will make the oil dirty looking but does not say anything about its viscosity or its TBN numbers, you have to have it tested for that. This is not saying that changing it early will hurt anything in the motor but it will increase the hit your wallet takes. If that doesn't matter, then keep doing what you are doing but if it is getting tight, then stretch it out to a round number and have it tested at blackstone or etc... and see what the numbers are. Yes, it does cost 25 bucks but if it says you can increase your OCI to 7k instead of 3.5k, you just payed for itself.

Once again, if you are looking for a ton of info related to oil and other automotive fluids, you really need to visit bobistheoilguy.com. Yes, you will have to sift thru some crap along the way but if you read the basics and have a good understanding, you will know what to look for in your oil choice and what wear metals are bad in a UOA. Plus, being informed will help you figure out who really knows their stuff and who is just blowing smoke or "I likes" around.
 

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just know once you switch to synthetic you CANT go back to running reg oil.
 

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just know once you switch to synthetic you CANT go back to running reg oil.
Do you have some definitive, non-anecdotal proof on that? I used synthetic on my wife's Dodge Caravan and then went back to dino oil. The synthetic seemed to cause problems and while the dino oil didn't fix it, it did reduce the problem.
 

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just know once you switch to synthetic you CANT go back to running reg oil.
This is CRAP. You can switch between anything that meets the oem spec, ie. a 5w30 API SM or etc.....

I have to ask thou, how does a syn blend work? It is dino and syn together so in your theory, it should melt down your motor and cheat with your wife, lol.
 

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Go to bob Is the oil guy and read the ten chapters oil school he has. The thinner the better. 5w30 is better than 10w30. Ow30 is better than 5w30. PU is thinner than M1 ow30. They keep it labeled at 5w30 so it doesn't confuse everybody that thinks the bigger the number the better.


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