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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday when pulling out of a parking lot (going about 5mph)...I hear a "clunk" and my truck will not go forward? Give it some gas...RPM's go up and it kinda surges forward (barely). I ran through all the gears, park, drive neut. etc a few times and nothing. put it in park and start over...shifts fine but just wont go??? finally when I put it in reverse, I hear "clunk" and am able to go in reverse, put it in drive and am able to go forward...

Start the drive home and hear 2-3 very distinctive "clunks" from rear end...after that all seems fine??? I took it to the nissan dealer today, their diagnosis is as follows..

"road tested vehicle, could not duplicate concern. checked universal joints all good at this time. Fluid level and condition good. no failure codes stored or tech service bulletins at this time"...

Kinda concerned here...I pull a fully rigged bassboat (well very soon anyway here in upstate NY)....They pretty much said it was a "fluke" and nothing they could do?? certainly not as knowledgeable as most folks here. but wouldn't it be something like a spline in the transfer case broke off? or something like that? it is a 2008 Titan king cab (no Mods)...

And they charged me $105 for the diagnostic? the truck has 47K...I would think this would fall under the 60K powertrain warranty? plus I have an extended warranty...On the "bill" it clearly states "transmission repair hours" 1.0.. Hard to fathom this could be a "fluke"?? the truck would not drive??

Any help or advice would be appreciated!!!
 

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I would remove the differential cover and check for broken spider gears.
 

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I would remove the differential cover and check for broken spider gears.
If it is not your rear end, I would be surprised.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the quick reply folks!! Any opinions on what to do? the truck is under warranty and as I said the dealer said they couldn't do anything "not able to duplicate concern"..

Could this be a one time thing? if it is what you guys mentioned it should happen again correct? have put about 50 miles since it happened and it has not happened again.

Again Thanks for the prompt reply's!!
 

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You probably have a chunk of metal down in there. the dealer could not deplicate the noise, Iam not surprised. if you are still on warranty make them give you a WHOLE NEW rear end This is a commen problem, and pull that cover or make the dealer do it. sharp turns will set it off also.
 

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Trying to get them to open up anything once you left there is probably gonna be a PITA unless it happens again. Like mentioned above.....I would peal off the diff cover and take a look.....try to get them to do it. If you gotta pay them to change the rear diff fluid...its still is worth it IMO. Its much better to be safe than sorry. It would suck for it not to happen again until you hit the 61k mile mark. Hell, my transfer case went out at 61k and couldnt get it covered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys...called again today with my concerns, brought up some of the things here, and from other folks...They pretty much said if it was any of these things if would be continuous...they said if it was a broken spider gear, that there is not enough room in there for it to be just sitting there....I said but what if when it finally went into gear and the loud "clunks" afterward that it is just in tiny pieces..and again their response was no chance of that..

They also asked today if I went through a "puddle" prior to this happening?? Well I said being that it has rained here for pretty much a week straight, that it was possible...when asked why they said it might be a short and maybe kicked off a sensor? He even said it was possible that a sensor "kicked it into 4 wheel drive"?? soooo I have now put about 100 miles on and it has not happened again....Gonna try to pull the cover tonight (still at work and its raining here in NY) Sons Nissan 240 is on jack stands in the garage (leaking differential fluid) :) Many thanks folks...Will keep everyone posted.
 

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IF you call the size of a marble minute then ok here's what I had when I pulled cover. Nuts were sitting right there when I opened it up. those were from tru track backing out ,But I had big ol chunks with the originel spyder gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok....After calling the dealership "Manager" about my concerns...they told me to bring it back and they would "Play with it for awhile".....left it overnight, they call me the next day and say same thing, could not duplicate it, they did not not pull the cover, just drove it around,,,, So today about 400 miles after the initial incident, my son attempts to move my truck, and he puts it in drive...surges forward and will not go...back to park, again into drive and same thing. He come in and gets me....this time I bring my cell (took a video)..

I put it in reverse and same thing loud grinding noise but wont go,, back into park, drive...nothing??? I put it in reverse get a VERY loud clunk and off she goes...drove it and now it seems fine??? I have the video of myself narrating..ok truck is now in reverse...video the tach which gets to about 2000rpms and you clearly hear the loud clunk...My son who is much more mechanically inclined, is sure it is my differential..He just replaced the one on his 240sx...I asked if he could take the diff cover off as you folks suggested, but he says I will lose my fluid?? So another call to the dealer tomorrow.. I pulled my 21ft. Ranger bass boat about 150 miles last weekend and it seemed fine??? Confused...concerned...frustrated!!! Had to vent somewhere folks...Being a newby to the forums I can say you guys are great!!
 

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A couple bottles of differential fluid is pretty cheap if you get the satisfaction of knowing that your differential is tossing gears or if it is just fine.
 

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A couple bottles of differential fluid is pretty cheap if you get the satisfaction of knowing that your differential is tossing gears or if it is just fine.

Indeed it is......you will have at least changed the fluid too
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok...It finally happened today...half way to work (30 mile drive) I hear a very loud clank, and then horrible grinding, metal on metal etc...I take it to a different dealer close to work and they pull the tires. They call me in and show me two piles of what is left of my e- brakes...they both "exploded" repair order states as follows...

found rear e-brake came apart and damaged ABS tone ring Also slip and VDC lights are on- will need axle assembly $1100 +tax.

I have had it to my original dealer 3 times...All 3 times got "could not duplicate" and all they did was test drive, The first time they test drove and put it on the diagnostic for $115. Today it cost me $104, plus a possible $1100 bill. the truck has almost 49K and I have an extended warranty, but only the "bronze" so nothing is under warranty.

I asked if i should call my original dealer to see if they can do anything, The service manager said he could put it back together and it would be OK to drive, but I would not have an e-brake and the ABS light and slip light would stay on. About 5 miles from home the "service engine soon" light came on?? Do not think this would have anything to do with the e brake issue???

You folks think I have any chance of my dealer doing anything about this? or perhaps Nissan head quarters?? The Service manager today said he was surprised that my dealer did not at least take the tires off when I had it in 3 times?? Perhaps if this was caught sooner it would have not damaged the axle?? I am guessing I am SOL, but would appreciate you guys opinion!
 

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You got lucky. Fix your E- brakes and reset your computer if your light's come back on you might have a problem ,good luck. I still say you got spyder gears coming up, sorry.
 

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Sounds like I have the same thing happening. Twice now I have put the truck in drive only to have it lurch forward and stop. No movement at all even with with increased RPMs. Check reverse to see if that will go, and it does. Put it back in drive and I'm on my way. No sounds from the rear end but I'm afraid that I'm headed for a breakdown. Is this typical behavior for a differential going bad?
 
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