Post Your Dyno Runs Here!!

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JetTech

Discussion Starter · Sep 2, 2004

This section will be sticky so it will be easy access for everyone and one area to post all dyno sheets of our mighty Titans!! Thanks everyone and lets see who's first to break 300hp to the rear wheels without any correction factors or forced induction!!

If you don't have your pics hosted on the web you can send them to me, I'll host them for you and post them here for everyone to admire. I've seen these threads go sour on other sites so lets keep this one informative and fun because that's what it's all about!! 8)

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JetTech

Discussion Starter · #2 · Sep 6, 2004

TitanKen's Dyno Run!!

All, this is TitanKen's Dyno report!!

Per request, here is my dyno graph:

Miles: 1900
Oil: Standard oem
Gas: 91 octane
Temp: about 75
Humidity: about 50%
Equipment: Dynojet
Test gear: 4th

SES light on due to O2 sensor damage durring header install.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3591

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JetTech

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 6, 2004

Here's My First Dyno Run

Here's the first dyno run on my truck on 1/14/04, it had 1K miles on it and was completely stock. Weather conditions were mild 68'F with 90% humidity.

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JetTech

Discussion Starter · #4 · Sep 6, 2004

Here's the second dyno run I had done on 5/18/04. This one compares the stock intake with a Volant CAI. Temp. was 87' with 98% humidity. All runs were done in 3rd gear and the engine was taken to fuel cut-off 6400rpm. The engine was baselined before I installed the Volant CAI which is represented by the lower hp numbers..

Fuel was 87 octane, oil was M1 0W-40..

As you can see the Volant made a few more hp and tq. Thank goodness because they're not cheap!!

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JetTech

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 6, 2004

And here's the last dyno run I had done. Mileage was 20200, temp. 88' and humidity was 66%. Oil M1 0W-40, fuel was Sam's 87 octane. All runs were done in 3rd gear.

This run was done with a totally new exhaust system installed. 2.5" straight pipes replacing the resonators, 2.5" Gison Y-pipe which goes to 3" at the collector, Flowmaster 50 series muffler, single 3" in and dual 2.5" out to twin tailpipes.

Figures stabilized at the 4th dyno run when everything was heat soaked.

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Finnattic

· #6 · Oct 27, 2004

JetTech said:
And here's the last dyno run I had done. Mileage was 20200, temp. 88' and humidity was 66%. Oil M1 0W-40, fuel was Sam's 87 octane. All runs were done in 3rd gear.

This run was done with a totally new exhaust system installed. 2.5" straight pipes replacing the resonators, 2.5" Gison Y-pipe which goes to 3" at the collector, Flowmaster 50 series muffler, single 3" in and dual 2.5" out to twin tailpipes.

Figures stabilized at the 4th dyno run when everything was heat soaked.

JetTech what gear did you dyno in?

JetTech

Discussion Starter · #7 · Oct 27, 2004

3rd, 4th will bump off the speed limiter before the engine is at redline.

Finnattic

· #8 · Oct 27, 2004

JetTech said:
3rd, 4th will bump off the speed limiter before the engine is at redline.

Thanks, I'm having mine done tommorow. I would presume the computer adjust all the correct ratio's to give accurate #'s due to 3rd not being say a 1 to 1 ratio.

JetTech

Discussion Starter · #9 · Oct 27, 2004

if this is your first time having your truck dynoed it's a learning experience and a lot of fun. The dyno computer will give corrected and uncorrected amounts of hp and tq. Just make sure they pull enough runs to where you can duplicate the numbers. It took 4 runs this last time and a good 7 pulls the time before that. Sometimes it can take a while for the engine to get heat soaked and stabilize out. Also the person doing the dyno run might try to floor it really quick, make sure to tell them to roll into it around 3400 so it doesn't downshift and it will make more hp then stomping on it at 3600 rpms. Just a tip..

Just make sure to note the outside temp. humidity and then please post pics of your run and let us know how it did. What mods do you have?

Finnattic

· #10 · Oct 27, 2004

JetTech said:
if this is your first time having your truck dynoed it's a learning experience and a lot of fun. The dyno computer will give corrected and uncorrected amounts of hp and tq. Just make sure they pull enough runs to where you can duplicate the numbers. It took 4 runs this last time and a good 7 pulls the time before that. Sometimes it can take a while for the engine to get heat soaked and stabilize out. Also the person doing the dyno run might try to floor it really quick, make sure to tell them to roll into it around 3400 so it doesn't downshift and it will make more hp then stomping on it at 3600 rpms. Just a tip..

Just make sure to note the outside temp. humidity and then please post pics of your run and let us know how it did. What mods do you have?

Thanks for all the tips, I'll need em, this is my first and looking forward to the learning experience. The only mod I have now is the Gibson Extreme Duals, you too right... I think I'll be the first to dyno w/ this setup.

Not to stray from the topic I did your $22 helper spring mod and it was the best $22 I ever spent on the TiTan. I appreciate your contribution to the boards.

JetTech

Discussion Starter · #11 · Oct 27, 2004

are you running synthetic oil in the engine and differentials? That will usually add a couple hp if you do. I don't know where you live because temp. plays a huge role in output, but I'm going to guess you'll come in around 275hp and approx. 320tq. This would be at warmer temps. so they should be higher than that if you live in a cool climate.

I'm glad you like the helper spring mod. I should probably post it over here on this forum just in case there are people who haven't heard about it. What a difference they make, I'm going to install them on my new truck this weekend, not because of axle wind-up but because they stabilize the truck out so much and make it handle awesome. Can't wait to see pics and hear how your beast did at the dyno, good luck and have fun....

oh yeah and one other thing, make sure to ask the dyno operator if he will give you the uncorrected numbers so we have something to compare to, all of my runs are uncorrected for temp. and humidity.

Finnattic

· #12 · Oct 27, 2004

JetTech said:
are you running synthetic oil in the engine and differentials? That will usually add a couple hp if you do. I don't know where you live because temp. plays a huge role in output, but I'm going to guess you'll come in around 275hp and approx. 320tq. This would be at warmer temps. so they should be higher than that if you live in a cool climate.

I'm glad you like the helper spring mod. I should probably post it over here on this forum just in case there are people who haven't heard about it. What a difference they make, I'm going to install them on my new truck this weekend, not because of axle wind-up but because they stabilize the truck out so much and make it handle awesome. Can't wait to see pics and hear how your beast did at the dyno, good luck and have fun....

I'm running convential oil everywhere except rear dff, there it is valvoline synthetic blend. As many did I had an issue w/ rear diff in begining which was taken care of no questions asked hence the reason for the different oil in rear. I would have went w/ full syn had I been able to find it at the time. Eventually will be running synthetic through out.

Live in Rich,Va and forcast tommorow is temp in 50's w/ high humidity. Hope humidity doesn't hurt too much and maybe w/ temp being in 50's will help negate the effect humidity level as far as dyno.

You really should post about that mod over here.
Best $22 anyone will spend on vechile.

New Truck??

I'll have camcorder in tow and will post info asap.

Thanks again.

Mike

check on the uncorrected numbers...

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JetTech

Discussion Starter · #13 · Oct 27, 2004

Yes on the new truck. I traded in my loaded LE for a more affordable 4x4 SE due to paycuts coming. Oh well, at least I got a 4x4 and was able to start over again. I wouldn't have it any other way..

Temp. will only do so much to offset humidity so it will be interesting to see your results.

Finnattic

· #14 · Oct 27, 2004

JetTech said:
Yes on the new truck. I traded in my loaded LE for a more affordable 4x4 SE due to paycuts coming. Oh well, at least I got a 4x4 and was able to start over again. I wouldn't have it any other way..

Temp. will only do so much to offset humidity so it will be interesting to see your results.

Good decision on 4x4, that's the most important option IMHO, got a SE myself, good all around....

Heck as far as the 4x4 goes forget about the snow or weather...I need 4x4 to even get traction in good weather...LOL

JetTech

Discussion Starter · #15 · Oct 27, 2004

that reminds me of a question I was going to ask you, are you running it in 4WD throughout your whole quarter mile runs with your G-tech or are you kicking it off? I remember reading somewhere that 62mph was max. speed in 4WD. Also your probably experiencing more drag with it in 4x4. Have you tried letting it spin a little to keep the engine from bogging? I know mine will give a chirp in 2WD then the VDC will cut output and then I'm off like a rocket. Even with the VDC shut-off the ABLS will kick in and limit wheel spin to maybe several revolutions and then I'm hooked up and going.

One more question off topic a bit. Have you noticed your left exit tailpipe hitting your spring shackles? Mine was before I gave it a little persuation.. :roll:

Finnattic

· #16 · Oct 27, 2004

JetTech said:
that reminds me of a question I was going to ask you, are you running it in 4WD throughout your whole quarter mile runs with your G-tech or are you kicking it off? I remember reading somewhere that 62mph was max. speed in 4WD. Also your probably experiencing more drag with it in 4x4. Have you tried letting it spin a little to keep the engine from bogging? I know mine will give a chirp in 2WD then the VDC will cut output and then I'm off like a rocket. Even with the VDC shut-off the ABLS will kick in and limit wheel spin to maybe several revolutions and then I'm hooked up and going.

One more question off topic a bit. Have you noticed your left exit tailpipe hitting your spring shackles? Mine was before I gave it a little persuation.. :roll:

O Boy,I had no choice but to run 0 to 60 and 1/4 w/ 4wd engaged. I know I'm taking a chance doing this as that was brought to my attention that the owners manual says this. I don't have VDC either...

The first few runs in 2wd I would spin just enough to effect my times enough that I finially got fed up and locked em in... The ABLS doesn't seem to do too much for me as I'll spin for 40 feet before I'll catch. I haven't mastered the feathering of the gas pedal method however your mod(helper spring) has helped in this area..
I've said this before we need a REAL LSD for the rear end and I can't wait till someone makes one for us or someone put's one in. I'm not sure how the ABLS will be effected if at all when putting in a new LSD.

Funny you mentioned the pipe clearence. I had to do some tweaking as well. The spring shackles were in the way when I would hit a bump as well as one of the pipes was vibrating against the frame.Fixed now with alot of persuation. :lol:

JetTech

Discussion Starter · #17 · Oct 28, 2004

that's odd your ABLS isn't working that good. You might want to have it checked out at a dealer because when it's working properly there's no way you should be able to lay down 40ft of rubber without it braking the spinning wheel. Are both wheels spinning or just one?

I agree on the LSD. Nissan should have used a mechanical cluth or cone locker instead of ABLS. It's a better option in my opinion. I believe the only ones who could use an aftermarket setup are those who do not have 4x4 nor VDC. Without those two items they truly have an open diff.

Finnattic

· #18 · Oct 28, 2004

JetTech said:
that's odd your ABLS isn't working that good. You might want to have it checked out at a dealer because when it's working properly there's no way you should be able to lay down 40ft of rubber without it braking the spinning wheel. Are both wheels spinning or just one?

I agree on the LSD. Nissan should have used a mechanical cluth or cone locker instead of ABLS. It's a better option in my opinion. I believe the only ones who could use an aftermarket setup are those who do not have 4x4 nor VDC. Without those two items they truly have an open diff.

I see the ABLS light come on when I turn a corner and loose traction and it seems to work however under full throttle(had to say that) there is too much power for it to matter...

Mostley one wheel is spinning with the other slightly. Going back and looking at the rubber mark there is one black mark with a slight trace of a second in spots.

Please don't tell me with a 4wd w/ no VDC I won't be able to get a LSD...

JetTech

Discussion Starter · #19 · Oct 28, 2004

still sounds like the ABLS is not fully grabbing the spinning wheel, I think I would still take it in to be looked at. CAn't hurt to at least let them know your having traction problems in the rain, or at least that's what I would tell them. 8)

I'm not 100% sure that a true LSD would work on trucks equipped with either ABLS, E-Locker or VDC. Maybe...

Finnattic

· #20 · Oct 28, 2004

JetTech said:
still sounds like the ABLS is not fully grabbing the spinning wheel, I think I would still take it in to be looked at. CAn't hurt to at least let them know your having traction problems in the rain, or at least that's what I would tell them. 8)

I'm not 100% sure that a true LSD would work on trucks equipped with either ABLS, E-Locker or VDC. Maybe...

I'm waiting on my new radio to come in per the tsb so I'll have them check out the ABLS next time at the dealer.
Thanks again for all the info. Looking forward to the dyno tommorow and I have my checklist of comments that you have suggested.
Lets hope something will work out as far as LSD. :!:

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