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PRG 1.5 inch Lift installed today

29K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  chadalac91 
#1 ·
Okay, over the past 2 days I have installed my 1.5" front and 1.5" back mini lift on my 2008 Pro-4x Titan. All & all, it went pretty good. Took about 7 hours total (I got sidetracked and did some other stuff while I was working). I searched for hours for an install write up and what I found was a bunch of photos that I made work for me and wanted to add some words to make the pictures make better sense. The pictures I found were on titantalk.com and here's the link http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-parts-accessories/48664-2-5-prg-mini-lift-kit-install-pics.html.

Back:

First set up on some level ground and get positioned so you can lift the back of the truck only on one side. Use a block!! Most floor jacks will run out of lift unless you do. I jacked it up from the straight part of the frame beneath the back door. Then loosen the nuts that hold the leaf springs to the axle. I believe these are 14mm nuts. After that you can remove the U Bolts and bumpstop from top of leaf pack. DO NOT LOOSEN 9/16" NUT ON TOP OF LEAF PACK!! Next loosen the Shock from axle. You use a 19mm wrench and 19mm socket for taking this off. My advice, get the WD-40. Once this is removed you are ready to lift. Lift the truck to where there is just enough space to slide the block beneath the leaf spring to the axle. Insert the block with the "allen stud" facing the axle and the open "slot" side facing up. Once this is in, you are ready to lower and put it back together. When lowering, it is easier to have a buddy help you out. That way when you are easing the jack down, they can be under there guiding the pin in the leaf pack into the slot. Then you can reattach the shock, the bump stop, the new U bolts, and nuts. These new nuts are 22mm. Repeat on the other side.

Front:

Park truck on level ground again. Break the lug nuts loose on your wheels and prepare to jack up one side of the front of the truck. Lift to where the tire is at least 3 inches off the ground. Place jackstand beneath truck. (There is a picture on the above link that shows the correct spot) Let Jack down and go to other side. Do the above steps on this side. After that, you have to remove nut that is holding Sway Bar to A Arm. You will need a 17mm wrench for this. Once completed on this side, do the same on the other. Warning; This is an easy step to bust some knuckles Remove the sway bar ends from assembly so that it is free from assembly. Then you go to the side you will start installing the spacers on. Put jack beneath A-arm assembly and let it support some of its weight. After that you pull the keeper key from where the Spindle goes into arm. Then loosen the nut. It is a 22mm and I'd get a cheater bar!! Loosen the nut down to where the nut covers the end of the threads. You will then need to give it a little love with a small sledge hitting the nut you just loosened from the front towards the back of the truck. Then the spindle will will slip down and the asssembly will spread. Loosen the 22mm all the way but before you do, I'd take a shoe string and tie a loop around the spindle the arm so it doesn't fall out and hit you while you are working down there. Next you need to loosen strut from A-arm. Again you will need a 19mm ratchet and 19mm wrench. Then you need to loosen the 14mm nuts that mount the strut to the frame. Be careful not to lose the nut that is closest to the block as it is the hardest to get to. Then let the jack down, and work the strut out. Mount the strut to spacer with the new bolts up. Turn the strut 180 degrees (If you have Rancho Struts, the Bar Code and Rancho label will now be facing in towards block). Work the strut back in and jack up the A arm again. Go ahead and mount the bottom strut in, then install the 14mm new bolts to upper strut bucket. Reassemble all except for Sway bar ends. Move to other side and repeat above steps. Mount the Sway Bar Ends, Jack up truck, remove Jack Stands on one side, Mount Tire, and then do the same on the other. Lift install complete.

There are instructions for Toe-In allignment, but my reccomendation is to already have an appt scheduled to get a professional to align for you. Most likely the allignment won't be that off, but that's an easy way to waste those new expensive tires that you just paid for. Hope this helps someone.
 
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#2 ·
I'm getting ready to do the same with my 2007 4x4 SE but I was going with a 2.5 kit but then saw a lot of post that say you should not put 2.5 leveling kit on a 4x4. So I think I'm going with 2". Do you have any rubbing with the 1.5 running 295/70/18 TRAIL GRAPPLER M/T or have you had to do PWM?

BW4x4 Titan
 
#4 ·
I'm getting ready to do the same with my 2007 4x4 SE but I was going with a 2.5 kit but then saw a lot of post that say you should not put 2.5 leveling kit on a 4x4. So I think I'm going with 2".
According to the PRGProducts web site you should only use the 2" spacer on a 4x4. Too much spacer will make it more likely that your axle shaft will come loose from the differential.

http://www.prgproducts.com/shop/product/prg_titan_leveling_kit/

Early models of the Titan had an issue with the c-clip inside the front differential. Supposedly this was corrected for the 2007 model year (possibly some of the 2006 models too).
 
#3 ·
It's always nice to see writeups that specify the size of the socket/wrench to be used.

One thing that could be clarified is that when you initially support the front of the truck on jack stands the jack stand should be placed under the frame, not the suspension. When I did my coilover swap I did not disconnect the sway bar. I would have saved myself tons of time and effort had I disconnected the sway bar. I ended up using coil spring compressors to squeeze the coilover down into a short enough length to fit. With the swaybar disconnected that should not have been necessary. Live and learn. I usually do each mod the wrong/hard way the first time.
 
#8 ·
Do you have any pics of the final product? Ive been wanting to do just a 1.5" leveling kit on my '08 and 275-285/70/18 tires. Dont know which ones yet but im still contemplating it.
 
#9 ·
I just got this and its a little dark. I'll take a pic tomorrow during the day and put on here from my phone. My advice would be going to the 285/70-18 if you can afford it.
The stock 265/70-18 translates to a 32.6"x10.43" wide
The PRO-4x stock 275/70-18 translates to a 33.16"x10.83" wide
And the 285/70-18 translates to a 33.71"x11.22" wide

Now for mud tires, you can basically add another .5" to the height as well as the width because of how wide the tread is designed. The only thing that kept me from buying the 285/70 was the fact that the best deal I could find on a "Mud Tire" was the Open Country M/T and there I was looking at $400 a tire installed.
 
#10 ·


Here's my truck after the lift and tires. Let me know what you guys think
 
#13 ·
Wow they look huge under there. Its looks like you might need a little more lift but it looks Beast. Im def in need of at least a level let alone a mini lift. Im looking forward to doing mine this summer. Thanks for the pic.
 
#12 ·
The spacers bolts that attach to strut are 20 ft/lbs. The rest were somewhere between 70 and 85 ft/lbs. I didn't use a torque wrench I just put them to about what it took to break them loose. When I go back this weekend I'll check with torque wrench.
 
#16 ·
Looks Great!
 
#18 ·
What year 4x4 are you?? Your tires are half an inch smaller than mine not to mention a M/T has alot taller and wider tread depth than an AT. Again not calling you out but there is alot difference between a pro 4x and any other 4x4. My argument/interjection was not that a bigger lift up front could not be achieved; only that a spacer alone would cause damage if bigger than 1.5" was used on my truck. The radflo coilovers are similar but not the same.
 
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