[alohaarg]

Guys yesterday when i was searching for new Titan forums i found several articules about problems with the rear diferencial in titan, i could not belive how many people are having that problem.
This is what they say there are amy diferent coments from diferentes members

"""On the Titantalk forum I read about people checking their rear differential and finding them low on gear oil. So I checked mine, sure enough I stuck my pinky as far down in there as possible and barely felt any. Drained it out and added 2 1/2 quarts of mobil 1 gear oil. The owners book calls for 2 3/8 pints. I think some one has got it wrong in the factory.

I purchased my LE a month ago, and two weeks later, with 2k miles on it, I was towing my 23’ TT (4200lbs) up to Asheville, NC. Just out side of Spartanburg, SC, I noticed a strong smell of oil/gear lube. Well, I didn’t really think twice about, I figured the smell was coming from one of the 18-wheelers. After about 10-20 minutes heared a whining from the rear. I pulled over immediately and went right to the back of the truck and sure enough there was oil all over the rear underside and the front of my TT. Well, long story short, I just picked the truck back up today. The Differential was toast, so the dealer replaced the entire rear assembly. I sure hope this was an isolated incident, I sure do like the truck..

PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU GUYS KNOW ABOUT IT AND WHAT CAN WE DO
Thanks
Alex



I got my Titan 1 week ago w/big tow package. Towed my boat 26ft, 130 miles. Burned 1 tank of gas in 90 miles (Alligator Alley), and smelled very unusual odor. It was differential fluid burning on my very hot differential. Also, my truck would not cruise under 4000 RPMs for the whole trip there. The trip back was fine, after the differential burned up. Noisy, but ran at around 2000 RPMS, and 1/2 tank of gas.
I went to the dealer today. THey were totally dumbfounded and said they should completely replace my differential. Unfortunately, there are none available yet!
Rebuild parts and kit must suffice. Now there is a whining noise out of the rear end that increases with speed, and the dealer is having trouble locating parts! I love my truck, but what a nightmare this is turning into!
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I had my Titan in because of "clunking" noise when shifting from D to R or R to D.

Service manager said they ahd to replace rear differential because the bearing was bad...
Kbutton

Please see my posts. Have had trouble with very hard shift from P to R with loud clunking including double clunk. Have been trying to get dealers and Nissan to address this and they just keep saying it is normal! It did not start until ~2500 miles and has been varying degrees of difficulty and loudness ever since. The original smooth shift only happens very rarely since this change. There are other issues and one of those is related to the Active Brake Limited Slip Differential, so I think it may be related to your problem. I can't get to the Internet very often. Have BBB arbitration hearing tomorrow, 7/27. Itasca
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I am having the same clunking problem (which I posted a few months ago). It hasn't gotten worse, but it's still there. No other problems with it, though. I did check my rear diff and hardly had any oil in it. QUESTION: Is it safe to stay with the 80w 90 weight, or will 75w 90 work as well? I was only able to find the Mobile 1 in the 75w. I went ahead and used the 80w. Any advice would be appreciated. I will take my truck in for the clunking and fight the "normal" argument as well.
adrtitan88

I checked my rear diff. and it was full to the top from the factory....I have no abnormal clunks at 3k. Is it possible some of the rear ends that were low on gear oil could have accelerated wear due to insufficent lubrication?? Moderate clunking is normal in the Dana 44. I had a Dodge Ramcharger that had one and it clunked from mile one to mike 210k without any issues.


Took my Titan in yesterday for the clunking (and other things). I took all the posts I could find on this site about the problem, printed them out, gave it to the service advisor, and wouldn't you know it, they are replacing the rear diff instead of telling me it's normal! Don't know if they finally had a few similar probs, or if the posts made a difference (I'd like to think the latter). When I get it back next week, I'll see

 

[MikeZ]

The best thing for you to do, if you haven't already, is drive to auto part store purchase 3 quarts of Mobil1 75-90 gear oil. When you get back home, unscrew the drain to diff. While draining, this is good time to clean up magnetic drain plug you just pulled out. Unscrew the fill hole plug and clean it up as well. Once all oil is drained out, put some high temp thread sealer on bottom plug and put it back in. Now put the Mobile1 in top fill hole. Should be able to get close to 2.5 quarts in there. Once that is done put fill plug back on and you are done.

 

[BiXLL]

I think that the majority of the rear end problems have been from low fill levels from the factory. I know mine was less then half full, but I knew about it going in, had it checked before I took delivery, and watched the service dept top them off. When you run the differentials low on oil, common sense tells you that your are going to generate tremendous heat. Heat and rubber seals are not a good mix, let alone the warping qual;itys heat has on metal.

 

[alohaarg]

so i only have to fallow Mikez step and that is it? that simple? i have no knolege at all of cars but if this is that simple and i don t need to take it to the dealer i do it myself, if you have any other advices before i do this oil change pls let me know i will try to do it tomorrow, what else will i need from the Autozone?
3 quarts of Mobil1 75-90 gear oil, high temp thread sealer some tools, a container for the old oil and what else? is this the way the dealer will do it, right? i'm not going to sruew up the real diferetial if i fallow mikez step by step right?
I will let you know tomorrow how this went
Aloha and many mahalos
Alex

 

[k9mrussell]

alohaarg,

I just changed my rear and front dif fluid last week. No big deal. My rear took 2 quarts, as did the front. If you have a 4 x 4 you should go ahead and replace that as well. It is a little harder because you need to remove a skid plate. The fill hole is also a little awkward. It is up high and in a tight spot. I purchased 5 quarts of Mobil 1 75 90 in case I needed to add later.

Go to the “Tech Tips” section and look under “Oil change intervals”. There on page 2 you will find all the answers you need. Check out JetTech's post. He has posted pictures for you.

Good luck.

 

[MikeZ]

Thanks for catching me K9, I did leave that out. I assumed you have 4x2, if you have 4x4 you need to do both front and rear.
You will need a 3/8" ratchet. No socket, just the 3/8" ratchet that is what fits in the drain and fill plug holes. That, a pan for it to drain into, some rags, oil, thread sealant. That should do you. Ask away if you have any more questions.

 

[JetTech]

I'm convinced that most, if not all, of the horror stories you read concerning rear diffs failing is because of low fluid levels. For some reason whoever is filling these things at the factory is not filling them to the correct level which is causing heat related problems and premature failures. Please Nissan get a new diff. filler person....

 

[BiXLL]

I'm convinced that most, if not all, of the horror stories you read concerning rear diffs failing is because of low fluid levels. For some reason whoever is filling these things at the factory is not filling them to the correct level which is causing heat related problems and premature failures. Please Nissan get a new diff. filler person....

Hmmm, seems like I heard that before???????

 

[Matt007az]

yeah they fixed that in 05 it was overheating with toeing