THE HEAT MOD ON THIS IS VERY EASY, JUST CONNECT BOTH GREY WIRE W/WHITE STRIPE FROM BOTH OF THE MIRRORS AND CONNECT TOGETHER THEN CONNECT A WIRE TO IT AND CONNECT TO A SWITCH AND FROM SWITCH TO A 12V LEAD.ALSO DON'T FORGET A INLINE FUSE.OR U CAN JUST TAP IT WITH THE 12V WIRE ON THE MIRROR ITSELFcatnip said:Are you able to make the heated mirrors work off the rear defrost switch?
Just wondering if you still had the pics and diagram for this thread? They are not showing up in the forum anymore.XE to SE Pwr/Heated Mirror Conversion-- Part 1
For anyone who can't stand being without power mirrors on your XE CC, like me, then this is for you! Oh, and the mirror defrost is a nice feature, as well! Note: These instructions will work for the XE KC, BUT, if you want to upgrade to pwr windows and/or door locks, the factory switches will not work. You need to have the BCM, which among other things, communicates with the pwr window/lock switch.....yes, the switch has it's own cpu! So you'd have to wire them direct with generic switches/wiring.
First off, the XE to SE mirror conversion not a "plug and play". Many have said that if you have the XE CC, then it is prewired for pwr mirrors since it already has the pwr windows/locks. This is not the case.....as I found out the hard way. So, this "how to" will give you fairly detailed instruction on how to install the mirrors, new front door harnesses, mirror switch (easy part!) as well as how to make the new harness needed to interface from ds mirror switch to the ps door harness and 12V power wiring.
The SE standard and Big Tow mirrors are the same, as far as wiring is concerned. Beware though, that the LE mirrors are different due to the memory function. They have different harness connectors because of this and will not work with the new SE door harnesses.
So, here's the Nissan parts you'll need. Order from any of the sponsors here, like Greg w/ Mossy. Price may vary, as I got my parts from various places like Titanparts247.com and nissanpartsdistributor.com
(1) Switch assy-mirror P/N#25570-5Z000 $42.16
(1) Finisher-Power (switch cover trim) P/N#80961-7S000 $1.82
(1) Harness Assy-door, Front RH P/N#24124-8S100 $34.53
(1) Harness Assy-door, Front LH P/N#24125-8S100 $38.18
Note: I found my SE mirrors (non-BT) on ebay for $155/pr plus shipping. Do a ebay search and you should be able to find them. He also had some BT mirrors for not much more.
The rest of the materials can be found at Radio Shack and Lowes.
I've attached pics of the mirror replacement as well as several pics of my custom harness and modification of the new SE door harnesses. I've also included a detailed wiring schematic and modified oem schematics from the service manual. My hand-drawn schematic isn't the prettiest, but it should give everyone a good idea of what's going on. Here's the basic steps, refer to photos for details:
1. Make your new harness. This is the longest part of the install. Refer to diagram "mirror new wiring schematic and parts" for materials/dimensions I used.
2. Modify new SE door harnesses to accept your newly made harness. Be sure to do this before installing it. You'll never reach the wiring under the dash to modify this plug later.
3. Remove XE mirrors and install new SE mirrors.
4. Remove the kick panels on ds and ps by removing the single plastic fastener at the top off each panel. Use fingernails or pocket screwdriver to lift center part of this clip out and then entire clip will pull out. Then separate the lower portion of the panel from it's attached rail piece.
5. Remove ds door panel. Pics show how to expose the hidden screws and remove panels. The cables for the door and lock actuators come off easily, so I removed them to give me more room. Peel back plastic sheet barrier far enough to gain access to wiring. The tar-like adhesive on this sheeting will reseal by applying some pressure.
6. Remove the ds door harness. First disconn the plug to the main harness under dash. Nissan uses several different style conn's, and they release differently. Most, though, have a side release that you push in with a small screwdriver and then pull apart.
Remove door jam harness protector and pull main harness conn thru jam and into door cavity. Start disconn all plugs from door components. You'll have to remove the power window/locks switch assembly from door panel to remove the plug to the switch. Remove speaker to access it's plug.
To remove the plug to the door actuator, I had to remove the actuator from the door partially, to unclip it's plug conn. This was kind of a pain. You'll need a #30 Torx bit to remove the 3 screws opposite the actuator.
7. Pass-side panel is the same procedure.
8. Install your new modified SE ds door harness. Each plug is unique, so no worries as to which goes where. There is an extra 2-wire plug that is for the Puddle Lamps, which we don't have. If you want to install these later, you'll have to wire them, as the main dash harness does not support this feature on the XE. Not a big deal to me.
9. Install the pwr window/lock and new mirror switch into the new finisher trim plate you bought. Plug in conn's to switches before fully securing assembly to door panel. Once plugged into harness, secure philips screw on bottom clamp which holds switch assembly in place. Plug in the white conn to the same main harness conn your old harness plugged into. Leave the other modified plug hanging until you run your new harness. Leave door panels off until everything is wired, so you can access wiring if you need to troubleshoot a problem. Same on ps.
10. Run your new harness from ps to ds. Use a heavy wire with a loop in the end or even a tape measure and fish it thru from the ds, behind the heater assembly to the ps and then behind the blower motor housing. Tape your new harness to this and pull it thru to the ds. Loosely secure in place, for now. Make your connections from the new harness ends to the modified door harness connectors. If you use modular connectors such as Molex ones, like I did, this part is made simple.
11. Connect your new 12V power supply from interior fuse block(conn M-4, pin-out 10P) to your two wires for pwr mirr and heat circuits. See pic explaining this.
12. Mount new generic mirror heat switch, and connect wires. Now, I wanted to use one of the 3 switch blank plates on the left side of the dash, but couldn't remove it. So, I ended up drilling a hole just to the right of these (see pic) and mounted it there. Not what I wanted, but looks OK, to me.
13. Double check all your connections. Turn ignition to ACC and test operation of both mirrors and heat. The mirrors will become warm within just a couple of minutes. If all works as it should, button up the panels and secure harness with wire ties.
14. Almost forgot.......after all that work......you deserve an adult beverage!!
1. Mirror Removal 1
2. Mirror Removal 2
3. SE Power Mirror Back View
4. Door Panel Removal
5. Front Door Harness and Switch
6. Door Harness and Actuator Cables
7. Door Actuator Plug Removal
8. New Power Mirror Harness
9. SE Door Harness Modification
10. Fuse Box Wiring
1. New mirror wiring schematic and parts list
2. Mirror door switch schematic
3. Mirror heat schematic
4. Fuse block schematic
5. SE door harness connector layout