Kudos to you man for tackling a major job like that. :thumbsup-big:

What's the turnaround time on the VB upgrade from IPT?

 

They say 24hr-48hr once it is there. I shipped it out today on 2nd day Air so it should get there Wednesday, although I got to go to work on the North Slope for two weeks on Wednesday. So as long as it is back in two weeks I will be happy.

 

what did it run you?

 

The rebuild kit was like $979 shipped, and VB was about the same since I had to ship there and back(shipping to AK is expensive)... Plus $225 in new Royal Purple Max ATF so about $2200 total.

 

Wow. That's quite an accomplishment and I learned a lot from your pics, thanks.
I rebuilt an AMC 360 on a Jeep Grand Wagoneer once, but have always stayed away from automatic transmissions because they seem too complicated. Let us know how it works when you're finished.

 

wow im majorly impressed, hehe this is no small job indeed, if my tranny blows again i will most likely do that same but take the rebuild kit to aamco or a tranny specialist

 

Thats not a bad price at all!!! Of course, I would have to have someone else do the work too, which is where I would get killed. Let me know if you feel any performance difference with the VB mod

 

Brute wanna rebuild mine when the time comes lol.

 

Yeah we can fly you in and pay you LOL. Like me flying DF6 in to street tune me haha

 

Thanks guys! Ya I always like to find out how stuff works by taking it apart. DF6 I will have you help me install cams when I get them

 

Good Job on the rebuild, Did you need any speciality tool to get it tear it down or reassemble it?

 

Not really, they say you need a universal spring compressor to compress a few of the piston springs but not really needed just would be easier to have one. Also they say in the manual you need a "H" Gauge to measure the clearance between your #2 Thrust Bearing and the #1 Thrust Bearing Race on the Oil pump before installing the pump back on, but I figured since everything else fit just right and I didn't tear into the pump it would be fine and it was. On every set of clutches you got to have a feeler gauge to measure the distance between the backing plate and snap ring. Pretty simple though. Other than that just a slide hammer to remove the oil pump, assortment of Metric Sockets, extensions, pnuematic ratchet and impact is also nice to have. It is real pain in the butt to get the top two bell housing bolts on the tranny, one you can get from the inner fender and the other you have to reach behind the motor and firewall and feel around for the bolt and remove it. Also a tranny jack is nice to have, luckily a friend of mine had one that I could borrow.

 

It is real pain in the butt to get the top two bell housing bolts on the tranny, one you can get from the inner fender and the other you have to reach behind the motor and firewall and feel around for the bolt and remove it.

To solve this problem, we just lowered the tail end of the tranny with a truck jack. We also used some wood to spread the weight of the tranny so we wouldn't dent the pan. From there we could see the top bolts. We used a long extension, I think a 17mm impact socket and gun. Check out the picks.

Here's the pic of my good buddy who taught me everything I know about mechanic. Incidentally, over 40 years on alcohol drinking 24 oz budweisers since forever. Two weeks ago he quit, made a promise to God and he's been on water, pizza, burgers and chicken ever since. Totally awesome.

 

Heck Yeah, there's a LOT of stuff going on in there! Awesome pic's!!! I want to hear how it shift's after the upgrade...video-video-video!!! I take it your sticking w/ the stock tq converter? which is probably what i would do if i upgraded my trans.
:thumbsup-big::thumbsup-big::thumbsup-big:

 

Ya I will take some vids when I get the VB back. I decided I didn't need the higher stall torque converter because I tow with the truck and need the low end torque.

 

If you fly me out there I will help on cams for sure lol.

 

Sounds good

 

Nice work Brute!!

 

You get an A+++++++ from me. Kudos to you for having the cajones to talkle this. Hope it all works out for ya

 

wow thats impressive man, i was thinking about buy the whole tranny, would that be stupid.

 

Just an update, IPT has recieved my Valve body Wednesday and has already shipped it back today! Should be at my house tomorrow or Monday, Unfortunately I won't be home till The 8th to install it. IPT wasn't lying about the turnaround time of 24-28hr of the Valvebody though! I was definitely surprised to hear that most shops will lolly gag around for a week! Hopefully it works good. I will let you know how she works and def will take some vids!

 

Tranny install

2 days were wasted on trying get the dang torque converter to sit farther on the shaft. I finally figured it out though, it justed needed to line up with the trans oil pump's internals and finally slipped right in after putting the tranny in the truck 3 times

I have 2 questions:

1.) So to line it up, you just kept turning it? How did you know it lined up properly? Did it snap in a specific way? Just curious to know since I never had to do that.

2.) How did you line up the bolt holes on the torque converter to the drive plate/fly wheel?

Here are some pics of my tranny install. Congrats also on your success. You did a great job.

 

Thanks for the pics, so are you rebuilding yours also?

To Answer your questions
1) The TC doesn't just snap in, on the shaft of the TC, you will see two flat spots these need to line up inside the trans oil pump. If you don't get these lined up you won't have enough clearance to bolt your tranny up. It also won't turn your oil pump. Once you get this somewhat lined up, you have to really push hard to slowly get it to slide into its groove. The clearance between the bolt tabs on the TC and the Bell housing needs to be .940" or more.
2) Just when you go to throw the tranny back in line up one of your bolt tabs on the TC to the window of the engine block. Once tranny bellhousing bolts are in, then turn your crankshaft to line up the flexplate to the TC.

Unfortunately the bolts on my Bellhousing we so tight that a long extension and a impact wouldn't work on the top two bolts. I had to use a breaker bar...

 

wow. Thanks for chiming back in.

I'm not rebuilding mine yet. I'm just installing a used tranny ($1050 for a 59,000 mile tranny) because my old one was contaminated with some antifreeze. I'll rebuild my old tranny when I have the funds. But first, I think I'll invest in a Stillen radiator with a bypass for added security. I bought an aftermarket radiator to replace my broken one and it's been holding up really well. It was cheap compared to oem ($100 vs. $700) Also, my friend Justin said that he had to replace about 4 oem radiators on Titans because they went bad.

With regards to your response, I have a few questions. Here they are:

1.) One of the flat spots on the shaft of the TC that you are referring to can be seen in the following picture, correct?

2.) When you mention "The clearance between the bolt tabs on the TC and the Bell housing," what do you mean by "bolt tabs?"

Are you referring to their corresponding holes in the following pictures?

Thanks a lot for the help Brute. That was real cool.

 

Yep, you got it man, that is exactly what I am talking about. I finally my truck going Wednesday and she runs like a raped ape! At first it was shifting pretty hard, but by the second day it learned....Anyways it has crisp firm shifts through the power band. No more sluglish shifts after the kick down when you punch it on a roll just quick and precise shifts. I would definitely recommend upgrading the VB. I will make a video tomorrow and post....

 

I haven't done a successful install of the transmission yet. On my first and second tries I've had leaks coming from the seal (right behind the torque converter.)

On the first try, the torque converter was not set in properly as the TC was binding to the flexplate/flywheel.

I re-installed with the TC in proper position (I could turn it freely without any binding) and I also added a new seal. I'm still getting leaks.

What do you think is wrong?

I've had two words of advice so far.

1.) Change the seal again. In addition, also change the bearing race located behind the front seal of the TC.*

2.) Only change the seal again. It was installed incorrectly.

 

Awesome!!!! Good to hear!

 

That's good to know Brute! Some video would be great...

 

Well did you take off the bellhousing? One of the bolts need rtv silicone on the threads cause it goes into the reservoir.

Ya that is what I was warning you about with the TC going in all the way. You think you got it in all way, but it needs to go in a ways. You might think you have a leak on your Input seal, but when you put your TC on the shaft a little spills out of the TC into the bellhousing and eventually leaks out of the two inspection holes. Mine did that and at first I thought I had a leak, but it only dripped a little, then stopped. Hope this helps. It takes quite a bit to mess up that input shaft seal, so I doubt it is damaged.

 

First of all, that was a nice vid. Mean sound man. Shifts are real tough too. Very nice.

As for me, I'm going to try one more install before I send it away to the shop.

Later Brute.

 

Here is the video as promised....